Dryer is turning the drum but there is no heat to dry the clothes. This fault can be caused by a multitude of different components that may have failed. It can also be the result of a clogged dryer vent hose. Follow the steps in order below to fix your dryer that will not heat. NOTE: If you live in an older home, you may have a fuse box. Check to be sure the issue you are having is not being caused by a blown fuse.
Clothes Dryer Troubleshooting:
1. CHECK DRYER CONTROLS
Check that the dryer is not on “AIR FLUFF” mode.
If your dryer is on the correct setting then move to step 2.
2. CHECK AIR FLOW/VENT
Check to be sure dryer vent hose is not clogged and restricting airflow. If so, how to clean dryer vent hose.
If your dryer vent hose is not clogged and the dryer is able to properly vent out the air move to step 3.
3. CHECK POWER
Be sure you know how to use a multimeter to check for power before attempting this.
Remove power by unplugging the dryer cord from the wall.
Check for 220/240V across the two hot legs.
Check for 110/120V from neutral to each hot leg.
If you have the correct power voltage going to your dryer then move to step 4.
4. CHECK COMPONENTS
Remove power by unplugging the dryer cord from the wall before testing for continuity.
Thermal fuse – check for continuity
Thermal cutoff – check for continuity
Heating element – check for continuity
Operating thermostat – check for continuity
High limit thermostat – check for continuity
How to use a multimeter to check for continuity
When you check continuity on the above parts, remove a wire from the part so you do not read back through a different path.
If everything above has tested OK, then look for the wiring diagram that should be inside the control panel or find your service manual. This will tell you if certain contacts should be open or closed during different drying cycle settings.
Note: The troubleshooting method above will work on all electric dryers. Maytag, Whirlpool, Samsung, GE, LG, Roper, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Bosch, Hotpoint, Haier, Fisher & Paykel, Electrolux…
Hi. I have replaced the thermal fuse, the temp control switch, the high limit thermostat, the cycling thermostat, and my heating element has continuity when I test it with the multimeter. I still can’t get my speed queen dryer to heat. It seems to run fine otherwise but no heat on any of the settings. Any suggestions?
Need help trouble-shooting an issue with my Whirlpool Cabrio dryer.
Had a recent problem with no lint collecting on the lint trap. Found that there was a large hole in the duct so we replaced it and took the opportunity to vacuum out all the lint that had collected that we could see. Also replaced the metal tubing in the cement wall attached to the duct work and to the outside and replaced the outside plate with a new plastic cover.
The drum spins, the dryer itself heats very well but there is still no lint collecting and the clothes aren’t drying. And when I put my hand against the vent cover outside, there is no air flowing through it.
My son did the work and replaced the duct behind the dryer. He clamped it to the hole attached to the dryer and then inserted it into the new metal tubing that runs through the wall and outside. He used special duct tape but I noticed that a little bit of air is allowing air from the outside to come in, but I can’t imagine that this would prevent the clothes from drying at all.
Any ideas?? I really don’t want to have to call someone in to fix this.
Hi, I need help with my Hotpoint dryer model DLB1250BDL ,I replaced the old motor type ” T “for a new one type “V”, the old one uses a external centrifugal switch and all the wires from the dryer are individuals, the new motor (S58TVMGA) we17x10010 came with a harness jumper with no numbers printed in it. From the dryer cames, black(1), brown (6), orange (2), yellow (4) , blue (5) the numbers is from the old external centrifugal switch.
Please help.Thanks.Emerson
I have a Whirlpool 110.63932100. I suddenly had no heat. Opened it up and found a blackened dime wedged against the thermal fuse and the screw holding the fuse in place. I pulled out the dime and checked for continuity of the fuse. It was positive for continuity as were the other components. Inclding the element and dial. Checked circuit breakers as well. Still no heat. Any guesses?
I have a Roper dryer. It spins, but I barely get any heat.
I am getting 240 through the hots and 120 grounded at the outlet.
I get continuity through the dryer cord.
I get continuity through the heating element, and it physically looks to be in great condition.
I checked the thermostat, thermal fuse, thermistor and the high-limit thermal fuse all have continuity.
All wiring and wire harnesses look to be perfectly fine.
I have no lint in the hose or lint trap. I even took off the lint trap housing and made sure it was nice a clean.
At this point I am at a loss…
Yes all of the wires have been checked; everything looks fine. I wanted to ask when checking the cycling thermostat fuse in front of the dryer (on the blower housing) it shows continuity on the outside prongs but does not show anything on the two inside prongs. Is this unusual? The only other item to check sounds like it may be the timer (not too sure, thats why I’m on here). Thanks in advance for all of your efforts.
Alan,
Have you checked all wiring and wiring harnesses to be sure all electrical is checked good?
Any burnt, loose, or brittle wiring may be your issue.
Test all components in the dryer with a meter to be sure all is working.
-RR
RR, the thermal fuse has been checked and has continuity
Vicky,
Check thermal fuse, then thermostats, then elements…
-RR
Alan,
Have you checked the THERMAL FUSE at the back of the dryer?
-RR