How do you fix a washer that will will not spin or drain? If your old or new washing machine does not spin we have some diy fix tips below to get it running again. The absolute first thing to do to your washing machine that will not spin or drain (whether it is top loading or front loading) is to perform a “Master Reset” to the washer. This should be completed before taking off parts or removing panels to make sure the computer control is not at fault. To fix your washer yourself, you may need to find your Washing Machine Service Repair manual.
There may be an issue with the “Lid Switch”. Top loading washing machines that have a faulty lid switch will not turn the agitator and the spin cycle will not start. However on some washing machine models it will still agitate but not spin. To properly check this you must remove the lid switch. (The lid switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame.)
The proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the user’s manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure. Or type in your washing machine’s model number and company manufacturer into Google and do a check for “Washing Machine Remove Lid Switch Model# Serial#”.
Remember to unplug your washer before you begin any testing or repairs. Once the switch is removed keep the wires coming from the washer attached to it so you can test it with a digital multimeter. Press the button on the switch to simulate closing the lid. When you have the lid CLOSED (button pressed in), the switch should have continuity. When the lid is OPEN (button not pressed in), the switch should have no continuity. If the switch does not have continuity when pressed in, the lid switch needs to be replaced. Find your washing machine lid switch. If the lid switch is functioning properly, go to the next step.
Another common item to go bad in your washer is the “Water Level Control / Pressure Switch”. This is usually always the defective part when your washing machine pumps the water out but will not spin and also when the water overflows on your washer. You can check this yourself by removing the 4 screws that hold the control panel in place. Once removed you will see the Water Level Control Valve.
To identify it look for the part with the small plastic tube attached to it. Once identified, pull the plastic hose off the water level switch and blow air into it. If the tube is clogged with soapy residue, then you can try forcing vinegar down the tube and in the switch itself by using a turkey baster as this will dissolve the soapy residue. If the switch is visibly cracked or burned you will need to replace it. To replace this switch, the proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the user’s manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure. Or type in your washing machine model number and company manufacturer into Google and do a check for “Washing Machine Remove Replace WLC Pressure Switch Model# Serial#”.
“Washer Drive Belt / Spin Belt on Front and Top Load Washers”
In most TOP LOAD WASHING MACHINES the washer drive belt connects the drive motor to the washer transmission. In most FRONT LOAD WASHING MACHINES the drive motor connects to the wash basket. When your washer is not spinning, check the drive belt for damage, rips, over stretched, or has fallen off. If the belt is in good condition be sure you check that the idler pulley and or glide on the motor is working correctly and is able to move as designed.
On TOP LOAD WASHING MACHINES be sure the pulley on the transmission turns in the spin and agitate positions.
Check that there is nothing hindering the agitator or wash basket movement.
If something is hindering the agitator or wash tub from turning or moving, this can cause the washer belt on the pulley to SLIP and therefore not spin. Make sure to inspect for oil drips or any water leaking on the pulleys or the washer belt that could cause any slippage and therefore not spin properly.
On FRONT LOAD WASHING MACHINES use your hand and be sure the tub will turn freely. Using the exact replacement washing machine belt is critical as the size, length, and width will help to run your front load washer as designed. If the belt is slightly longer, slippage can occur and the washer may not spin on certain cycles or wash load sizes.
If the above troubleshooting procedures are not what you need then have a look at the “Washing Machine Quick Check Fix Guide” below to get help finding the cause of your problem.
Washing machine will not spin on the spin cycle
Question: My Top Load Whirlpool washing machine will not spin on the spin cycle for the regular wash anymore. It will spin if I put it on the pre soak setting and then all it does is fill up with water and drain when it goes into the actual “spin” cycle. Both cycles will not agitate the clothes. Will I need to buy a new one or is there hope in saving my washer?
Answer 1 – Sounds like the coupling as that is usually the bad part in most Whirlpool models for the problem you are describing. The Whirlpool washer has no belts and is a direct drive gearbox. The motor coupling was a weak plastic part which has been replaced with a steel coupling as a direct replacement. However, if the washer does spin on pre soak then it could be a bad switch. There should be repair information online for your model that can help you figure it out.
Answer 2 – Our washing machine had spin troubles also. It is a Kenmore front loading washer and only 1 year old. Try going on the Appliance Repair Questions website. Those guys are very helpful and some of them are actual appliance technicians that answer your questions free. We got advice and fixed our washer by replacing the motor control board which was about $130 online.
Answer 3 – If it spins on one setting but not another, then it would seem to me that it’s one of two things…
A – If it was a motor issue or a mechanical issue then it wouldn’t spin AT ALL. Seems more to be a control panel issue. It may be the timer itself. Test the timer.
B – Your particular brand of washer may have a sort of interlock or fail safe that prevents it from spinning if something else isn’t right in the system. Possibly a clogged drain or a pump not pumping? If the washer fills at a certain rate and it drains at a certain rate then this is probably not the cause. Do some tests and find out.
Get a wiring and parts diagram and look at the wiring on your washer and find out what leads to what to trace and test the components with a multimeter. Make sure those functions are turning on when they should.
If you still need help, assistance, or answers to fix your Washing Machine Won’t Spin or Drain problem, ask the
experts over at Appliance Repair Questions for free answers to fix your broken appliance!
Hi,
I have a MAYTAG Top loader model # MAV5000AWW doesnt spin out in whites or color cycle it will in delicate cycle. i have to keep spinning the knob and pulling it out. i hear the click and it cycles around just doesnt do anything anymore. please help
my ge front loader washer wount spin as soon as i put it to wash it throws water n then drains it iy never washes please help
OMG I thought I was going to have to buy another washer (which I can’t afford). After resetting my washer following these steps, my machine is back up and running smoothly. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Hi guys,
My top loader wont wash or spin properly. It makes a grating noise on wash, sounds like its on one direction of the agitator. On spin cycle the agitator spins hard but the bowl goes slowly, balling up the clothes and not spinning them.
What can I do as a self fix?
Thanks, Peter
Hi, I too have a GE washer WWA8364VLLwh, (top loader) has been very reliable. Hadn’t used it for about 3 weeks, and now –it fills (in all “modes”) but then stops, will buzz every one-two minutes or so, clicks, and then nothing. I do hear it clicking (not buzzing) occasionally too. I’ve tried both the “normal” and “gentle” cycle.
Will not spin, agitate, or empty. I tried the reset trick, no luck.
I’ll get the manual to figure out how to check the lid switch..which you’re suggesting is my next step? (does check the lid switch mean — replace it to check it?)
And then check the drive belt? (which I don’t believe I’ve ever replaced.) Machine is almost 26 years old… and has light-medium use (one person only.)
When I spoke to GE they said (of course) — replace the machine. It’s probably the motherboard or the motor, and parts aren’t available.
Thank you so much for your help!
Hey guys
My samsung ww75j4213iw bubblewash7.5 has a smashed door glass. I bought the new glass but I’m having trouble taking the cover off the back of the door as it isn’t screwed.
Any idea how I would go about this ? Cheers. Johnny
Thank you for this, got me back up and running in 1 minute flat!
My Whirlpool washine machine Model#2DLS07533J02 was not spinning and the pump was replaced about a month ago but the problem has recurred. can you help?
My 5 kg front load Samsung washing machine is showing 1E error. How to attend it.
door piece broke off. Now twin tub machine spinner refuses to spin. LG twin tub
I have a maytag bravos quiet series 300 it fills up with water then it stops on wash cycle with a flashing message “F:54”.
Please help me figure out what the issue is?
I have a 10 year old Matag top load washer and goes into spin cycle as soon as it’s turned on in any any cycle, why?
Thanks so much the washing machine reset worked!
I have a 10 year old Maytag Top load
Washing machine. The washer is spinning in spin mode but it will no longer get all the water out of the clothes when done. Can you help
Hi , my LG front loader washing machine wd80154 i replaced the bearing set for drum,one of the motor bearing and carbon brushes, I have checked the motor’s field winding resistance (pin 1 and 5) give 1.1 ohms , (pin 1 and 10) give 1.2 ohms and (pin 5 and 10) give 2.2 ohms the problem is the motor sometimes not turns to right or left unless i try to turn it and of course this is without belt means without load the other thing when it runs I hear a sound (tek) from the motor and it stops working for a very short time and the PCB starts with a beep sound several times without a fault code and then returns to the first turn or problem, Please any advice on how to proceed
Twinmaid 1300 washing machine “spin dryer” is not spinning.
What could be the problem?
This is the problem I am having with my Whirlpool front load washer.
What do I have to look at?
THANK YOU for saving my washing machine! I am going on a trip tomorrow and it shut down in the middle of the wash cycle. Followed your master reset instructions and they worked like a charm.
I pulled the drain impeller and found a sock from my little guy stuck in there. Fixed!
I am having the same problem with my Whirlpool. If you ended up finding a solution, please let me know. I am about to check drainage system as suggested.
Thanks!
My Maytag ga108 will spin but won’t drain all the way.
I’ve already checked hoses and pump nothing is stuck.
Any ideas as how to dismantle a program timer of a Bompani BO 05205 Washing Machine from the front Panel please.? Thanks!
My Hotpoint washing machine doesn’t appear to be spinning correctly? It isn’t spinning at the correct speed from what I can see and whenever I take the clothes out they are dripping wet still? I have tried to put them on a spin after the wash but they are still sopping wet? Do you know what this could be? Or what I can do to find the fault?
A follow-up — I never managed to disassemble the washer, but in using it I’ve noticed something that may help pinpoint the problem. It still stops randomly during the rinse and spin cycles, sometimes rinsing but not spinning/draining, sometimes not rinsing but spinning… But in if I pull the knob out just a little bit, not all the way, and kind of nudge it in and out gently, the washer will usually start doing what it’s supposed to be doing. So maybe it’s the knob? thanks
I have a the same brand of washer and it’s doing the same thing!
My Whirlpool washer will only fill up so far but the water keeps running and won’t start washing, what could it be?
I have a Kenmore washer dryer combo that is not working . I had a load of laundry in the washer and it started becoming off balance. Tried hitting the pause button but it didn’t want to stop. After panicking for a minute, it finally stopped. I rebalanced the load and turned it back on. Everything seemed fine and it acted like the wash cycle was over. I waited almost an hour before trying to run another load. The lid lock clicks and locks, and it sounds like it is starting, but after a minute it shuts down and the timer beeps. I removed the front cover and can’t see anything wrong except for there is a part, I believe to be part of the motor still rotating, and very slowly might I add. Trying to fix this on my own without having to call a service tech out. The unit is only a few months old.
Frigidaire Crown Series – Model FWXB45RGS1
My machine goes thru all the cycles but does not spin – there was mild-moderate odor of burning rubber. Is this machine worth fixing?
michael coyne,
Is the motor running on your Hotpoint washer?
If not, check to be sure it is getting power.
If it IS getting power and the motor does NOT run, than the motor has an issue.
Check to be sure there is not a thermal reset button on the motor.
If you replaced the brushes then you most likely checked out the complete motor.
Replace motor if it is faulty.
If the motor is in working order, but does not receive power, then there is an issue with the control panel or a wiring issue.
Please troubleshoot further and let us know what you find faulty on your Hotpoint Washer.
-RR
I have a Hotpoint wm22 Washing Machine.
It will fill with water and drains ok, but the drum will not move from start to finish.
I have replaced the carbon brushes even though they looked fine.
Is there anything else i can check before calling out an engineer?
I have the same problem, and yes it works on all cycles but the rinse. When it starts to drain/spin during rinse cycle it only spins slowly with water still in it. So when it is done spinning clothes are still wet and it the bottom of washer instead of up on the sides. Spins fine on last spin cycle. I have an automatic softener basket that won’t release the softener because it doesn’t spin enough to release it during spin cycle. What can I do to fix this?
My Whirlpool top load washer will not spin even though it makes the spinning sound. It drains the water but the clothes are still partially soaked.
Ser # CS2801078
Model# L8N2000PG3
Sian Norbury,
Depending on what model number your Zanussi washing machine is, check the lid switch, or the door switch to be sure it is working properly.
-RR
My Ikea integrated washing machine does full wash cycle but not the spin. Even when I set it to just a spin programme it won’t spin in both cases a red light comes on on the start button. Any suggestions I have no idea where to start.
I have a Zanussi washing machine, it was working perfectly fine then all of a sudden it wont spin. Am I going have to get a new one?
Nancy T.,
Most likely on a Top Loading Maytag Washing Machine if you smell something burning during the spinning cycle, you probably have a worn out belt.
Unplug washer and open the service panel.
Use a flashlight and have a look inside.
You will most likely see a shredded rubber belt.
If this is the case, order a new belt for your Maytag washer and install it yourself.
If it is not a belt issue, please let us know and please supply us with the model number off your Maytag washer.
-RR
I have a Maytag top load washer, during the rinse while in the spinning process it started to make a weird noise and smoke started to come out. I turned off the washing machine and notice that it was not spinning and did not rinse. I’m scared to even try it again to see if it works because of the smoke and burning smell.
I was an electronic tech for 34 years, working on IC circuitry, then computers for many years. The statement that John from Canada made about handling the computer control board with care is correct, but he is mistaken when he says to make sure you are not grounded. The reverse is true. Static discharge into the circuit components is the potential computer chip killer, so touching a grounded panel on the machine while handling the old board, but especially the new one, will discharge any residual static charge you may have developed on your skin, and prevent an arc from jumping to a component on the board.
Thanks for the info. My GE washer wasn’t spinning. Thanks to you I fixed the Lid switch myself saving $$$!
Our Kenmore series 80 washer has erratic behavior.. mostly after wash cycle it will fill for rinse and empty, or fill for ever…sometimes on wash cycle it won’t get past fill..on short cycles it will was and may or may not rinse..during wash, when it washes, it will agitate and spin… Seems like timer.
Andrea,
If the Roper top load washer hums when it should spin, and the washer will not drain, you may have 2 issues.
First check that the drain pump, drain hose, and wall drain are free of debris.
The washer may not spin properly if the drain system is not operable.
Once you are sure the washer drain pump, drain lines, wall drain, and drain hose is okay, run a test wash.
If the washer hums but now drains, you fixed one issue.
If the washer still hums, you may have a bad belt, motor coupler, motor itself, etc…
Check parts for wear and replace as necessary.
-RR
I have a Roper by Whirlpool top load washing machine and it fills with water. When it’s supposed to start agitating it just makes a humming noise then it will go through the timer cycles and won’t drain but once it got to the rinse cycle it fills up with more water and overflows and won’t do a spin cycle either it just hums.
SER: CL 2004884
MOD: RAB2121KW0
Tim,
Depending on the model number of your used Whirlpool washer, (if it will not spin or drain) you could have a bad lid switch, drain pump and hose may be clogged, jammed, or faulty.
What is the model number?
-RR
I have bought Whirlpool washer from a guy that promised it works great. Well it doesn’t… Had trouble getting it to fill and wash. I kept working with it and finally it filled and washed… Then it will not spin or drain… I need help. Where I bought this second hand I don’t know the history of this washer… help!
Let me add a reply to my previous post. I had purchased a new Drain Pump for my washing machine and replaced it. However, this didn’t help at all sadly. It drains all the water from the container still but there’s still what sounds like some water “in between” that just won’t come out. I believe it’s the reason why the spin cycle won’t work. The agitator works, but once it goes into spin, I have to take out all the clothes by hand and wring them out myself as although the water has drained, they just won’t spin.
I have an LG F1480QDS front loader it has developed an IE fault which is not allowing it to fill properly so I have replaced the solenoid valves ,replaced the pressure sensor switch checked the vacuum hose and repaired small hole with a hose joiner stripped and cleaned entire machine and replaced hall switch on motor but still have IE code come up when trying to use machine also timer does not count down past the first two minutes so am thinking maybe a control board or programmer issue.
Thank you!
I can’t even tell you how old my washer is but this was a quick fix and I cannot be thankful enough.
I own a GE top load washing machine. As of late, it seems to agitate the clothes, but when it goes into spin cycle, the water seems to drain while the clothes at the bottom stay soaked. It will not spin, and it sounds as though even though there’s no water in the receptacle where the clothes go itself, it sounds like if I manually turn the container, I can hear some water sloshing around inside. Not sure what the best thing to do will be at this point, as the washing machine seems to drain all water from the clothes receptacle, but given that it sounds like water is still within another compartment within the machine, it may be the reason why it does not want to spin, almost as though the water is slowing down any chance of it spinning.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. Wasn’t sure if I try to drain it from the back, if this water “in between” the receptacle and machine will come out of the same area, or what may be the reason that there’s still some water in another compartment causing resistance to the spin cycle. I’ve gotten it to spin before, but sounds like depending on the amount of water “in between”, is what may cause it to not spin at times more often than those few times it does spin to wring out the clothes.
I have a Kenmore 80 series top load washer. It seems to run through the regular cycle but will not rinse, drain or spin. It makes a strange clicking sound on the rinse cycle like it’s trying to drain, but nothing happens. I tried fiddling with the lid switch and a time or two the agitator did a flicker of a rotation before it shut off. Does this mean I should replace lid switch or could there be more problems with it also just clicking and not draining?
Lana,
Check wiring, check drain hose, check to be sure all drain lines in the washer are not blocked.
Does new pump get power?
Does the new pump run at all?
-RR
I have the Haier HLP2121n 1 cubic ft top loader and it just stopped draining – machine starts, goes through the wash cycle, and stops – no noises, no beeps (if we turn off the machine the water drains normally, so the hose is not obstructed). First time that happened we figured pump was the issue so we took the machine apart and glued/fixed the pump, and it helped for one-two washes, bun then stopped draining again, so we got a new pump – but it still doesn’t drain! I’m at my wits’ end…
Charlie,
The FE error code on your Samsung is telling you that a FAN ERROR has been detected.
Since we do not have your model number, Google your model number for where the fan is located and how to get at it to check it.
-RR
I have a Samsung wash and dry front load machine that only washes and spins, but when it gets to the drying point, an error code (FE) pops up and it stops operating. Please how can i resolve this problem.
Clementine Baragry,
There may be an item stuck in the drain pump.
If a washer is overloaded, at times a small item may pass through and get jammed in the pump, and with some washers, the washer will not do anything if this is the case.
Is the drain pump being energized?
Have you checked the door switch or lid switch to be sure it is working properly?
Is the tub or drum off center?
Possibly the motor overheated and time is needed for it to cool off. If you overloaded the washer and try another wash too soon, it may be because the washer motor is thermally protected and it has reset itself until it cools off.
Let us know what you find.
-RR
Thank you for your response. The washer stopped I emptied it, it was heavily overloaded. It started agitating a little when it was emptied but I opened it and then when I closed it again it wouldn’t do anything I tried unplugging it for 5 min. I tried opening and closing the lid 6 times in 12 seconds. I tried running a cycle with nothing. I am pretty sure it is getting power, the dryer works and there is only one plug for both.
Clementine Baragry,
When your Maytag washer was overloaded, did you have to stop the washer and remove the items during a cycle, or did you let it run the complete cycle overloaded and the washer finished?
Is the washer getting power?
Did you get any blinking lights or errors after the overload?
Have you tried unplugging the washer for 5 minutes?
Is it possible the extreme off balance may have loosened a wiring harness or balancers on the tub off?
Check under the washer to see if there is any parts that have fallen off.
If nothing, unplug washer and be sure all wiring harnesses are connected.
-RR
My daughter overloaded my washer and now will not spin drain or agitate won’t really do anything at all now. I have tried resetting it , and running a cycle with nothing in it. My washer is a washer dryer combo, Maytag commercial duty dependable care heavy duty large capacity intellidry control model # LSG7806AAE
Daniel,
Maybe possible bad faulty LID SWITCH. The lid switch may work intermittently. Test it to be sure that is not what is causing the issue.
If the lid switch is in good condition, check the motor coupler as it may be worn out and causing the problem.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 90 Series washer that will get all the way to the rinse cycle (usually fills with water) but eventually will not spin and drain. It makes an electrical noise like it’s trying to. If you take the basin and spin it around manually from inside and then depress the lid switch, it sometimes will start back up and finish the cycles out. I had something in the entry to the pump about a month ago and it ran fine for weeks after. Any ideas before I just buy a new one?
Shawn,
If the Samsung washer just stops mid cycle either it is overloaded, has a bad board, may have a loose wire harness somewhere, or senses an imbalance. If you smell electrical smell and the washer hums, then the drive motor and components may be binding up or a faulty part could be the cause.
Open the washer up and have a look visually with the washer unplugged.
Let us know the model number.
-RR
I have a Samsung front load washer. Not sure the model number. If I just hit spin it will spin. Starts slow with a humming noise then it kicks in and runs. Then I hit a quick cycle and it fills and spins some and then about halfway through it just stops. The water is still in the bottom and it smells like electrical burning and the spin motor is humming any ideas? Thank you.
I did recheck, the model number is SW12E1. That’s written !!
Yes did open the lid and try to assist it , but it wont start spinning.
It seems like it wants to start spinning, but will stop, it does this 3 times !!
Its like is getting stuck with something that is preventing it from spinning !!
Kayla,
Check lid switch assembly for proper operation both mechanically and electrically.
-RR
Brett,
Check the wiring harness on the shifter. It may be damaged or loose.
Also check the motor sensor. It detects the rpm of the basket and actuates between agitate and spin for the motor.
The issue you are having may be a basket speed sensor fault.
When the lid lock flashes red, all it’s indicating is there is an error somewhere in the system, it doesn’t mean it’s necessarily the lid lock.
-RR
Dionel Cornelia,
Please recheck the Model number of your Samsung washer as the one you provided is not valid.
If the washer fills with water, but has a difficult time turning, it could be a number of things such as a belt, transmission, clutch, motor coupler, etc…
When the washer tries to spin, can you open the lid and assist it by moving it with your hand? If you try this, does the tub begin spinning?
Let us know the model number and describe in more detail what the washer is doing.
-RR
I have a Samsung SW12e1 model top loader washer. After the filling water process is done, it wont start spinning, the motor does sound and does like it wants to spin, but then get stuck, it does this 3 times and then stops. Any solution?
My Kenmore washer 110.21102010 stopped working. I learned how to enter the diagnostic mode. In manual mode the spin cycle/agitate will not work and the wash, spin, cycle complete and lid lock just flash. The other functions appear to work as they should. I did observe the shift actuator moving but the motor will not start the cycles. Any help is greatly appreciated!
I have a Samsung top load washer wa40j3000aw/a2 it fills up with water but will not drain or spin
Chris,
We need the model number of your AMANA washer before we can suggest an parts to replace or check.
-RR
Linda,
My Maytag about the same age is doing the same thing. Did you ever get a reply that explained the problem?
Thanks
I have an Amana top load washer. Not sure of the model #, but it’s a few yrs old. But here’s what it is doing- sometimes the lid won’t lock(tried the reset) but it will fill up w/ water. And sometimes the lid will lock, be sensing the load, then stop. The lid will stay locked, but the lid lock light will be flashing. Hopefully it’s some simple.
John,
Something may be binding up when it gets to the rinse cycle.
Clutch issue, Motor issue, Motor coupler issue, Pulley issue, Out of alignment issue, Transmission issue?
Have you checked these parts?
What was the issue before you replaced the dog ears?
-RR
Thank you. Saved my day.
I have a Whirlpool washing machine.
Model wtw5500sq0 and I just recently replaced the dog ears for the agitator to work which was successful.
Now the machine is stopping on all rinse cycles and makes a buzzing sound until i stop the cycle. Any ideas?
Sean,
Can you explain “Amana washer was working fine until the water was shut off by the dirt”?
What is the model number of your Amana washer?
If the DOOR LOCK BUTTON FLASHES, this means there is an issue with the door lock.
The door lock may be faulty, or it may not be closed properly.
-RR
I have an Amana front load washer that was working fine until the water was shut off by the dirt mid wash. We unplugged it and left for an hour – when we apply power, there is no display on the front panel, door lock button flashes and we hear a pump running dry. Pressing any button or holding it does not work. What do you think? Control board issue? Can’t open it or see any error codes – no display.
Sherry,
Can you supply us with the Maytag washing machine model number so we can assist you in what part that may need to be replaced?
-RR
I have a Maytag washer that is about 20 years old. It has recently been hard to start on certain settings [as in you would have to turn it several times and keep pulling the big knob back in and out}. Now it has stopped running at all except for agitation on the permanent press selection and will not drain or go into spin. You can still hear the timer clicking along but nothing happening.
CLM,
Please supply us with the model number of your Maytag and we will assist further.
Do you get an error code or any indication of an error?
Does the washer flash the led lights when it is trying to spin to signify an exact issue?
-RR
I tried the “master reset” trick on my Amana front load washer, which at first I thought sounded a little hokey….but oh my goodness! IT WORKED!! The washer was not spinning, would only do a slow tumble. Thanks so much for these tips!!
I have a Maytag front loader 2000 series that’s stopped spinning. I tried the reset trick, but that didn’t work. I don’t want to spend much to repair it, so I’m hopeful there’s something I could check myself to see if I can fix it. Otherwise, I’m just going to replace it.
Jakob,
If the drive belt on your Haier Washer is worn out, that is most likely the reason your washer will not always spin. Replace it with this part here… Haier Washing Machine Drive Belt
-RR
Phillip Deering,
Since your GE washer is a top load, check the lid switch. This IS the most likely cause of a top load washer to NOT SPIN OR AGITATE.
-RR
I have a GE washer model # GTWN3000MWS. Will not agitate or spin.
I have a Haier HLP21N Pulsator washing machine – 1 cubic foot top loader. The machine washes and drains but does only very occasionally spin. When it is time to spin it makes a sound as if it is trying to start spinning, but never manages to begin. I have taken away the bottom and the drive belt looks very worn out. Do you think its the belt or something else? Thanks a lot!
Zafar,
Baumetic Washing Machine Error Code E1 = Water not draining
PROBLEM:
Drainage pipe is kinked or blocked so the water cannot be drained
SOLUTION:
The drain pipe is located above 90 cm from the ground
Open the lid after the drum has stopped spinning and check the drainage pipe
Here is the Baumetic Washing Machine Owners Manual to further assist you.
-RR
I have a washing Machine named Baumetic and model BWM 51. From last week rinsing and spinning is not working and the error showing is E1. Can you help me to solve this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Bob,
Any error codes or flashing errors shown? You may be overloading the washer and therefore it senses that and pauses intermediately… Can you give us the model number?
-RR
Gemma Greenwood,
If your Beko washer is making a grinding noise, most likely that means there is a broken part in the washer and it needs to be replaced. Here is the service manual for the BEKO WM74155LW washer to assist you in finding the issue.
-RR
Darin Schella,
Does the tub on your Kenmore washer run normally on all cycles except the “rinse” cycle?
-RR
I have a Maytag 2000 series front load washer that doesn’t want to run large heavy loads anymore without stopping during wash cycle was wondering if you knew what the problem might be?
Kenmore 110-28692700
Tub doesn’t spin during rinse cycle, can move by hand. Water does drain out, but leaves clothes soaked. Pumps works fine. Coupler is in great shape. Clutch is new and still in new shape. Lines are clean. Brake system seems to be working, hard to spin one way, but easier the other way when engaging that ‘switch’. At odds as what it can be. Viewed video of timer switch, so gonna check that out, even though the timer also seems to working fine. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Beko WM74155 LW, It wont spin :(
At the start of a spin and drain you can hear a grind like it wants to but nothing happens.
No further sound apart from the draining sound.
Jewel,
You have to give your Kenmore top load washer a manual hand spin so the basket spins during a wash cycle? Do you hear any type of grinding or clicking noises?
If you need to spin by hand, the motor coupler, belt, or clutch could be bad. You will need to remove the panel and check internally for damaged parts.
Usually this is a coupler that is bad. It is inexpensive and will not take very long to remove and replace.
You will need to look inside the washer to be absolutely sure which part to replace.
-RR
I have a Kenmore washer top loader, model 110 24692300. It won’t spin. I opened the lid, and manually pressed the lid button down to see what happens, and then gave the basket a spin manually and it spins that way. However as soon as you release the button while holding it and it stops, close the lid and it won’t spin again unless you manually move the basket itself. Any idea why?
Karl Hiller,
We would recommend to unplug the washer and take it apart as it seems to have an internal issue. If after your Kenmore 70 washer got through one cycle and you had to manually turn the knob for it to proceed into the next cycle and you heard humming, this means something may be binding up, possibly the belt is bad, pulley, motor, clutch, or transmission. You need to take it apart and troubleshoot from there. You will perobably see an obvious issue once it is disassembled.
-RR
Amazing job answering questions here, thanks. We have an old Kenmore (70 series, model 110) top-loader that keeps ending cycles with anywhere from 3 inches to a foot of water still in it. So to try to analyze what was going on, I ran a large load of laundry with a wide pencil stuck down into the lid switch hole, and the lid open. I stayed in the basement working on other things until I heard the washer stop. It was all the way to the end of the cycle, with a foot of water in it. So I turned the knob around to the start of the spin cycle and activated the washer; it drained the water and sat there humming, without any spinning. I pulled the pencil out and the washer stopped, and the drum kind of jolted a little, like some force on it had stopped suddenly. I put the pencil back in, and it started spinning and finished the spin cycle normally. Does this point to any specific thing that I should check out first?
I have Samsung top loader. When the clothes are about to spin the washer shakes thus not allowing the clothes to spin. So, I thought I had too many clothes loaded. I used less but it still does the same thing. 58 mins ends up 3hrs later. Even tried spin mode alone and it still does the same thing.
I have a Whirlpool top load washer model #LSR8433KQ2, Series -CR1308542, Type-111. It will wash and agitate but will not spin on any cycle sometimes if I take my hand and start it will spin but it make take up to multiple times to get it going. I have tried to reset it but still no luck. Some have said it could be my belt and others said I don’t have a belt not sure and didn’t want to have to pull out and look just to see, as It is in a tight space.
Marisa Rodriguez,
Most likely your Kenmore top load washer has a drain clog issue or the drain hose may be clogged or bent. Check the draining components and most likely you will find a clog that can be removed and will fix your washer.
-RR
My Kenmore top load washer will Wash, rinse but will not drain or spin. Ive tried the master reset. I dont really know what my next step shall be. Any guidence would be helpful.
Thank you! I thought maybe I was being pranked with the “open and shut the door six times within 12 seconds.” Part but the reset worked. Thank you so much.
The serial number is (S) 10837549GP. I replaced the parts because the washer was not working properly. After the entire wash cycle, the clothes were soaking wet while the water was all drained out. Also during the agitation process, it was making a grinding noise. So I figured that it was probably a bad bearing. I ordered the Hub and Seal Kit and replaced the parts. The old bearing was a bit rough. But when I turned it on, the entire belt got burned right before the first agitation. So I took it all apart, applied more grease to it and it looked fine. The inner top was turning freely when the belt was not on. Then when I put the belt on, I first tried to see if it would spin. I put the machine into extended spin. It was spinning beautifully. I put the screw driver into the slot to make the machine think that the top door is shut so that I could watch the entire cycle. The water got filled and when it was ready to agitate, I only heard the motor pulley spinning and burning the belt. I could smell it. I turned it off right away not to destroy another belt.
Mario,
Recheck every part inside the washer to see what is making it bind up and burn the belt. Why did you replace the parts? After you replaced the parts, are you having the exact same issue? What is the serial number of your washer?
-RR
The machine is unplugged and turned off to make sure it does not burn the belt. When I try to turn the agitator to the right by hand (clockwise), it does not turn. However, when I turn it to the left (counterclockwise) it only turns the upper portion of the agitator but not the lower part.
I don’t know if this matters at all but when I try to turn the inner tub to the left or right, it will not turn. However, when I turn the transmission pulley, it does turn the inner tub. This is all by hand.
Mario,
Be sure the bearings are installed properly. If the washer will not agitate and the belt “burns” off when it tries to run, there is something holding up the agitator such as a bad or wrong installation of the bearings. You could also have a transmission issue. What happens when you turn the agitator by hand when the washer is not on?
-RR
I have a Maytag MAV4758AWW. It would spin and drain but would finish with the clothes sopping wet. I replaced two of the three bearings (one had a small dent and did not spin freely). However, after reassembling the washer and testing it out, it now burns/shreds the drive belt during the agitate portion of the cycle (the motor runs and turns the motor pulley but the agitator does not turn, burning the belt). However, it works fine during the spin portion of the cycle – no damage to the drive belt. Can you suggest what to do next? Thank you very much.
Joan Morgan,
If you replaced a bad lid switch and it still will not work, make sure the lid switch is making contact with the lid plunger. If it is wired properly, and the washer will still NOT SPIN, you will have to remove power and open the washer up to find the exact fault. Let us know what you find.
-RR
I have a Kenmore washer model number 11020802991 the lid switch burned out and I replaced it but it still won’t spin and it smells hot is there anything I can do? Thanks
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! My washer wasn’t spinning and I was seeing dollars floating out my window when I found your page. It’s working again! Yay!! You rock!! :-)
Thats awesome tried both reset and pressure swith. It was the switch
I have a Kenmore heavy duty large capacity top loading washer the fills and washes but won’t drain or spin. The tub will not manually turn. My friend said the motor is burnt out. But I would like a second opinion. Thank you. I bought it used and not sure of the age. And my stepson overloaded it one time. And next time it did what I told at the beginning. Thanks again for any suggestions.
Hi
I have an lg top load washing machine that has an intermittent problem. When it gets to the end of the rinse cycle it clicks and then the pump wont start. Ive checked the pump and cleared it out . The hoses arent blocked. I end up dropping the drain hose to the floor dtain to empty it. I turn it off and on set it to spin and it works .
Anthony,
Be sure the correct switch was installed and that it was installed correctly. If you continue to have issues it may be a simple wire harness that is causing your issue but further troubleshooting will be needed.
-RR
I have a Lg direct drive washer. It was flashing code PE, looked it up and it was a pressure/ sensor switch had gone bad. I ordered and replaced the part. Started a load and it almost completed a full cycle before stopping at 6 minutes remaining and was flashing PE once again. Please help!
We bought our Affinity fl used about 5 years ago and had to repair it twice. It has since quit spinning and rather than get it fixed again we bought a new tl Maytag. The Affinity was never really much of a problem, just kind of so-so. A used washer for $200 that lasts 5 years is better than most I’m sure. Hopefully our new machine will have our clothes smelling better though. The old one never did though I tried to keep it clean and used expensive detergent and softener. If you get a good deal on a used one, go for it, otherwise try something else.
Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction…
My washing machine will not spin without assistance. I tricked the lid switch to allow me to see inside during spin mode. The motor runs but the barrel only spins if i reach down and give it a spin by hand. I checked the rubber coupler and it seams to be okay.
Is there a belt to tighten? or is the motor shot?
I have a Whirlpool washer 4800XQ2 with a no spin issue. Sometimes it will not spin at all and other times it starts to spin but stops have way thru and receive a lid-lock flashing light. I check the error codes and get a motor not reaching proper rpm and a basket speed issue. I try the manual spin tests and the first time, all is fine. The second time both spin tests fail halfway thru, on a subsequent attempt it just starts to spin and stops right away. I leave it for half hour and the next first attempt the manual spin test works fine. I tested all motor and actuator instructions and everything passes. I read somewhere that an intermittent actuator will give a false lid-lock error. I have verified that the lid-lock works fine during the manual test. The actuator tests also pass although at one point, the tachometer test would fail but has been passing since checking the actuator connections. I have already replaced the control board and synch’d it.
GE Washer Mod # GDSR4110T5WW: Today during the rinse/spin cycle, I could hear the pump running and every 20-30 seconds or so, the lid switch would click and I’d hear a splash of water. I opened the lid to see what was happening, and the clothes were spinning but all of the water was still in the tub! I held down the lid switch with my finger so I could watch it in action. It seems like when the clicking would happen, the spinning would stop, and the water would slosh around in the tub (the splashing sound I heard).
I started a new drain/spin cycle, holding down the switch again so I could watch. This time the pump was running but the water wasn’t going down. It never did spin, and then the end of cycle buzz went off. Help?!
My wife tried washing blanket in the washing machine (do not know why), the cycle started with water but it did not rotate. I guess it is an overload. But could any one help me diagnose this ? As of now if I try to run it empty the cycle starts but the drum does not rotate. Also there are no errors on the screen.
Machine Model – Siemens IQ 300 Verio Perfect.
My may tag top load reset!!! Unplugged and closed lid 12 times lol great saved my life 5+kiddos
Our Kenmore front loader, model # 970-C40052-00, will not perform the final spin, it drains then shuts itself off. This for all cycle options. Tried the reset above and no difference. Any other suggestions please?
Anne Louise,
Check the lid switch as it may have an intermittent issue or the washer is switching it on and off when it is running. What is the model number for your Electrolux Washing Machine?
-RR
We have an Electrolux top load washing machine. Today when it is trying to spin the unlock lid control is cutting in and out and spinning is stopping starting stopping starting faster than I can even say it!
It is beeping at the same time, and cutting in and out. I have unplugged from the wall and left it for quite some time but it is still doing the same thing.
Wow, I had to go all the way through step 3 but it works like a charm. Thank you so much
Just used this site to fix my GE washing machine. Blowing air into the tube of the water level control worked! Machine is spinning again!
Tamarac Geter,
The OL error code on your Kenmore Elite Oasis Washer means an overload has been detected by the main control. If the unit is NOT overloaded, try unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and plugging back in. If this resets it then the issue is gone, if not you may have something blocking the tub, a motor error, a sensor error, control board, etc… Let us know what you find.
-RR
I have a Kenmore elite oasis washer and I used it for the first time in 60 days and towards the end of the cycle I keep getting this error message OL now matter how many items are in there. Is there something I can do to fix it myself.
TY I just did the unplug thing…..did it 2x the second I got my spin back!! Who would of thought!
Charlene Luna,
Can you give us the model number of your Kenmore top load washer? It is located under or on the lid. Also, when you say it shuts off, does the washer actually turn off meaning no power no lights are on? Please describe in detail.
-RR
Need help please on fixing my Kenmore top load washer. It starts of good from the start it Agitate and spins. But when it gets to the rinse cycle it stops making the ticking noise completely and shuts off. How do I fix it?
Laurie,
If you are having to MANUALLY switch it to the rinse cycle, either the control board or the switch is possibly faulty. You will need to open the washer up and test the components to be sure.
However, if the washer is only 5 months old, it should be under warranty. Call Whirlpool and they should send someone out. Your washer is under warranty…
Call Whirlpool at…
US: 1-866-698-2538
Canada: 1-800-688-2002
Hours of Operation:
Monday-Friday: 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM EST
Locate the washers model and serial number before calling.
-RR
Paula,
Can you give us the model number of your Haier washer? We can further assist after we know the exact washer model you have.
-RR
Jovan Estrella,
If you are bypassing the lid switch, is it bypassed correctly? If the washer senses the lid to be open it will not operate properly. What happens after the washer drum moves cw and then ccw for 5 seconds? Does it just sit and count down as normal?
-RR
Joshua Wazelle,
If it is a top load washer, check the lid switch. If it is a front load washer, check to be sure the control board wire harnesses are secure and not damaged. We will need the model number to troubleshoot the problem. Look on the inside of the washer lid or front door for the model number and let us know.
-RR
Hera,
It may be the pump motor, a control board issue, or a loose wire harness. Many times a wire harness will become loose from the vibration and therefore certain parts are unable to work properly. Check all the wire harnesses to be sure they are all connected secure. If they are, then check to be sure the pump motor is getting power. If it is, you may need to replace the pump motor. Also check the control board for loose wire harnesses or a possible burnt spot or obvious signs of damage. Further troubleshooting may be necessary to find the exact part that is malfunctioning.
-RR
We have a Frigidaire Gallery Front Loader Washer. I noticed yesterday that after the wash the spin cycle was not engaging and the water is not draining. We removed the water pump to see if there was anything stuck in it and there is nothing stuck. When the spin cycle is supposed to be engaging there is a clicking sound coming from the pump but no action. Do you think its the pump that needs to be replaced? Should we look at other things? Could it be the Motor?
I have a Maytag washer and the only thing it will do is fill with water. It won’t drain, wash or anything. I tried your master reset and checking the switch. Neither worked. I’m not sure of the year or the model.
I have a GE. GCWP1800D1WW. The washer will not spin or agitate, the lid switch has been by by-passed and resseting the motor does not work. The washer will move the drum clockwise and counter clock wise for about 5 seconds each way for about a minute and then it will stop moving. The led on top of the washer says that it is in normal operation but it will not spin.
I have a Haier washer that doesn’t spin out the clothes. I have tried the reset that was mentioned earlier and have not done anything else. I don’t want to tear it apart unless i have to. If you could help in any way i would greatly appreciate it.
I have a whirlpool top loading high efficiency washer 5 months old. Once the wash cycle finishes it wont proceed to the rinse cycle, leaving the clothes wet. I have to manually switch it to the rinse spin cycle. I use HE detergent, and have even tried running it without soap. Same thing happens. The model number is wtw5000dw
Jemma,
Can you give us the model number of your Hotpoint washer? You most likely have a front load washer and the door is locked. Try unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and plug back in, set the washer to drain and see if the water will drain out. Unplugging it may reset the washer.
-RR
My Hotpoint washing machine is only a few months old and since yesterday it won’t drain or spin at all, it’s half full with water and I can’t open the door, how bad is the problem?
Ashlee,
Does the washer do ANYTHING at all after it attempts to fill with water? It just counts down on the timer but the washer does not spin, wash, or drain? No noises? Can we have the model number of your Frigidaire Front Load Washing machine?
Have you checked to see if all the wire harnesses are attached behind the control board? This sounds like a computer board communication issue. The control board may not be communicating with the washer therefore the washer stops filling with water and just sits.
-RR
Hello,
I have a Frigidaire Front Load Washing machine and it is acting like it would like to spin but it is stuck… It will do one jerking motion then it stops filling with water and just sits there until the time expires for the cycle, can you let me know if you may be able to help. I have already cleaned the drain pump and made sure the propel spins inside the pump.
Thank you for taking the time to reply to my awe 6517 question.
Having checked the control pcb which did not appear to have any dry or melted joints. I suspect that the contacts within the relay used to energize the water inlet valve have worn. As the boards are factory soldered and resin coated it makes it nearly impossible to replace the relays which are fairly cheap components. When I have made repairs factory made pcbs in the past you can sometimes lift the tracks off it if too much heat is applied. The relay coils were good at 430 ohms. Due to the cost of the a new pcb I’ve scrapped it and purchase an identical machine. When weighing up the cost of encountering further issues with other parts such as the motor or heating element in the near future (As the machine is now 6 years old). The approved replacement pcb is half the price of a new machine which swayed my decision. Great site and great advice.
Donna Russell,
Yes try the reset process on your Maytag washing machine and see if that resets the error code.
-RR
Thanks for the quick reply. There was no electrical smell at all so I followed your advice and checked for binding. I took off the rotor and the bolt was so tight I had to use my electric impact gun. Nothing on the stator looks out of place so I put the rotor back on and tightened the bolt with a ratchet, and now it spins. I just ran a complete cycle and it is fixed. I don’t know how the rotor bolt got so tight, but I will keep an eye on it now. Thanks again.
I have tried that already. It comes on sprays a little bit of water the drums goes back and forth a little bit then it shuts off and says code SD and it is F- some number. I can’t remember the number but every time I try to restart it without soap or clothes it has the same error button on it. I had worker come out to look at the washing machine and he said it could be the power board. When I called him back he said that nobody works on those front load washers. I read lots of comments about them about them being lemons that when they got one thing fixed on it another thing went wrong with it. I tried unplugging it and plugged it back in but it did not reset. I did not know about opening and closing the door will that work on a Maytag?
Dean,
This sounds like the motor is binding up or a part has broken. Open the washer up and check to see if the motor is somehow either binding up or you can see a broken part. When the motor hums, does it produce an electrical smell? You could have a faulty motor.
-RR
Donna Russell,
The “Sd” is associated when too much detergent has been detected. Try running the washer a few times with no detergent to clear the washer of suds and clear the error. In the future do not use an excessive amount of detergent. Use HE type detergent.
-RR
Maytag 2000 washer with code Sd F. Something isn’t working after 4 times. What can I do?
I have a Samsung VRT front load washer, about 4 years old that will not spin. It drained all the water and the motor hums like it’s trying then stops and repeats this. When the motor hums the door lock light is on then turns off when the motor stops. I checked the filter and hoses and nothing is blocked and the door lock does work. There are no error codes as well. I tried opening/closing door for master reset but did not work, I’d be grateful for any tips or new ideas. Thanks
Carl G,
If you have been very thorough with checking the pressure switch, water inlet valve, and the drain pump, then you may have an electronic issue with a board or module. Have you checked the board/module to be sure it is not visually burnt or has a melted solder point?
Here is a UK based website that shows the module for Whirlpool AWE 6517, and the Whirlpool AWE 6517 Control Unit. Check and let us know what you find.
-RR
No questions at this time but I wanted to say this is the best site I have been on…maybe ever. Your instructions are clear, you respond with respect and courtesy. I am very grateful for your time and effort.
I have read through the posts on this site and I am really impressed with the advice given. It appears you have the solutions to most issues. I would really appreciate your advice on an issue I have with my 2010 whirlpool awe 6517 top loading washing machine.
Once turned on and a cycle selected the motor runs and turns the drum three times possibly in different directions. The drain pump then appears to drain the water before the red service light comes on so I suspect that the motor is okay.
I have checked the filter and also removed the pump which when tested outside the machine spins correctly drawing around 0.1 amps it is rated at 30 watts so appears correct.
No water is entering the machine although I believe it is not getting to that stage in the cycle. The solenoid son the valve test out at 3.5 k ohms and when energized do open.
I have checked the pressure switch which is closed when air is blown into the hose. There is a second connector on the pressure switch which has around 100volts ac to it when the machine is on although I’m not sure if this is correct or not. One’s I have encountered before are just no or nc make or break.
Is there anything else in the control circuit which could be causing the service light to illuminate or is this possibly a pcb fault.
I have yet to try your reset tip although if you recommended that it may work with this model I will give it a go.
I have a Samsung Model # WA400PJHDWR-AA Serial # Y69Q5AEC601967X that will not drain or spin. It will in fact fill up with water to wash normally, but stops when it becomes the rinse cycle. I have done the reset funcition, and even had a professional plumber look at it, to no avail. This machine is only a couple of years old. Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated!!
Checked all wires and all are connected. I ordered an washer electronic control board.
Lorri,
Unplug washer, open service panel and check inside as it sounds as if something was binding up and therefore causing your issues and the burning smell. Direct drive is different than the traditional washer so do a little troubleshooting and have a look around and you will most likely see a part that has broken or an electrical component that has shorted out. Use caution when taking the machine apart to investigate inside. Your issue could be a number of things. Here is a parts list for your Kenmore washer 110.26902690 that may help you to determine what part you need to fix it. There are a few videos at the bottom of that page link that you can watch to assist you further. Let us know what you find.
-RR
Bipin Maliakal,
You may have either a maytag washer transmission problem or a maytag washer tub part that has gone bad. Check the links we have included as they have parts schematics and that may help you to find the issue.
-RR
I have a Maytag Atlantis Washing Machine
Model : MAV7501EWW
I have a problem with the final spin. It does competes all the cycles, the agitator agitates and its drains the water. Here comes the problem, once its drains the water, it should be going to the final spin cycle, it looks like its doing the spinning (hearing the washing machine working) but when I open it and make the door switch on with a screw driver, all I can only hear the noise, but the drum is not spinning at all.
I don’t know what to do with this, is it something that can be easily fixed or do I need to get a new one?
Between, is this model is pretty old one?? I’ve recently moved to this new home which the previous landlords where using it.
Thank you so so much for saving me from a melt down. My front loader hadn’t drained after its wash throughout the night causing me to open its door this morning and flooding my kitchen. It then refused to do a spin drain cycle. Thanks to reading list it is now running a rinse and spin test cycle without fault :). Thanks for the information
First, my compliments to you on the fantastic job you do here and the amount of patience you demonstrate when responding to some of these queries. I am truly impressed.
My washer is a top load direct drive Kenmore (Whirlpool) model 110-26902690 over 10 yrs old. New Years Eve, had a load of clothes in, left lid open at start of rinse cycle for water to fill before adding fabric softener. Didn’t get back before agitate cycle ended prior to start of drain/spin so reset timer to start of rinse cycle, closed lid and immediately heard loud, rapid clicking sound coming from motor area. From past experience I would characterize the sound as that of some sort of switch being repeatedly energized. Machine did not agitate but tub began to slowly rotate. I stopped it then reset timer to start of wash cycle (at the point where it stops filling and begins agitate). Same result. Tried timer reset to several different points in various cycles all with basically same results (the loud clicking noise present always at any points in cycle other than fill). Being in the midst of some other activities at the time I set timer to spin, closed lid and left the area. Much later, when I returned to remove the clothes they were (almost but not quite dripping) wet and there was an electrical smell in the vicinity. The clothes being too wet to deal with I reset timer to spin and nothing. No click, no sound or response at all. Not on any speed at any point in any of the cycles. Put the whole situation on ‘timeout’ till earlier today. Went to troubleshoot diagnose today and it’s back where it started clicking sound, no agitate but slow spin instead. (one caveat: I did not refill the machine today when I tried this and it seems I recall it won’t agitate w/o water in tub.Y/N? I was focused on the ‘clicking’ sound. After reading this entire ‘page’ I did try the ‘master reset’ procedure you suggest no improvement. Could you please advise as to next troubleshoot procedure? I would be most grateful!
Tish,
Replacing the water inlet valve should have nothing to do with spin and drain. Is water entering the tub? Why was the inlet valve replaced?
When you replaced the water inlet valve you may have inadvertently bumped a wire harness or similar. Recheck all wiring to be sure the drain pump, lid switch and other parts are connected properly and getting power.
-RR
I have an Amana washer we replaced the water inlet valve (not sure the correct term) now washer will not spin or drain tried resetting it. It will not reset continues you try to agitate.
Tim,
Control board at top may have loose wire harnesses. Check the board and motor to be sure the electrical wires are secure.
-RR
I can move the tub by hand with no problem, nothing is binding up. I do not have a multi-meter. Would that be the control board at top or control motor board at the bottom? Need washer working bad….. Thanks for all of the help…
Tim,
The tub does not move most likely because you have a faulty or malfunctioning control board, sensor, or timer. You can move the tub by hand when the washer is off, correct? It does not seem as if anything is binding up inside? Right? It is more of a control or communication problem? Do you have a multi-meter?
-RR
Checked all wires and re-plugged washer. The washer now runs water and drains but on wash cycle the tub doesn’t move on neither cycle. The minutes go from 59 minutes all the way down to 7 minutes. The tub never moves still.
Tim,
Sounds like there is a communication error. Try checking that the wire harnesses are secure on all parts and to the board. If all the electrical is connected, you may have a bad board and further troubleshooting will be required.
-RR
Stephen Hohl,
The drain pump is most likely internally clogged. Open it up and check. Which wheel are you talking about? There should not be a pulley on the drain pump. Just be sure the drain pump is not clogged and the washer will spin and drain as normal. If you need more info, please send us your model number of the washer.
-RR
I have a GE top load washer machine. It goes through the all the cycles until it gets to the spin and drain cycle. I noticed that in this cycle it is making a solid buzzing sound but nothing is happening. I took the front cover off of the machine (wow there was a ton of stuffing from a dog bed throughout which I cleaned it all out) and heard the buzzing coming from the pump motor in the front. There is a wheel on the front which is not spinning. I played with the wheel got it to spin momentarily but stopped when I tried a light load. Any suggestions? I tried the lid rest to no avail. Unless I did it wrong. Not sure if i need a new pump and what the cost would be for that. I did notice the magnet is still strong.
Tried it again, when I press normal wash, quick wash or either wash, the door locks when I press start and nothing happens it just sits on the beginning numbers. Nothing happens at all. The lights come on and I can switch between different cycles, once you press start nothing happens. Thanks.
Great tips. Thank you,
Michael,
Q – Any hints for the reconnecting that rubber hose to the plastic lines, for the next time I have to do that?
A – Use a hair dryer to warm the end of the hose to get it to slide back on easier.
Q – The rubber boot has some mold in the bottom of it where water can sit after the washer is used. I have replaced it once before, and I will likely have to replace it again soon. Any tricks for removing the mold or preventing it from forming in there?
A – Running a preventive maintenance wash cycle will help take care of bacterial growth and residual soap. Once each month or more frequently if desired. Run a hot water wash with no clothes and use bleach or white vinegar instead of detergent.
-RR
Tim,
Try washing again and see if the same exact thing happens. If it stops on 30 minutes again then you could have a part that is malfunctioning therefore freezing the machine in that wash cycle. If the time the washer stops or freezes changes, then a control board is usually the issue. Run a few more washes and observe if you see any changes which can lead to which part you may need to check or replace.
-RR
Allan Aquino,
Before replacing any parts, check that the drain pump and drain hose are not clogged as this can make SOME washers refuse to spin as it senses the drain system is blocked. If the drain pump is in working order and not blocked, then further troubleshooting will be required. There could be an issue with the load sensor, or the control board may have an issue. Have you tried to run the washer empty and see if it spins?
-RR
Thanks John good stuff…..
I need your advice regarding my washing machine. I have a Samsung Top Load Washing Machine (Model WA15P9). I NOTICED THAT THE DRUM IS NOT ROTATING DURING THE SPINNING CYCLE BOTH DURING LOW AND HIGH SPEED SPIN CYCLE. ALSO DURING SPIN CYCLE THE INSIDE WASHER PLATE IS ROTATING INTERMITTENTLY AND THERE IS A SOUND THAT SEEMS TO BE COMING FROM THE DRAIN SYSTEM. I opened the washer and found that the belt is intact and the motor is running intermittently as well. What could be the problem?
I had it on regular wash. All of the lights come on nothing flashing. Machine making no noise. It just sat on 30 for 10 min then I unplugged. When I had it on regular wash it started at 59 min and went through all cycles and filled the tub and drained, but it stopped and froze on 7 min which is the spin cycle.
Yes, the pump was clogged. In the hose there was a white basket with large holes, and it was clogged with all kinds of stuff. I cleaned it out and put it all back together, and the washer works great. Getting to that hose was an absolute pain. I had to remove the front panel, which includes disconnecting the door and removing the rubber boot from the door as well. Removing the hose was pretty easy. Reconnecting the hose to the tub line, the pump and to the sensor for the control panel was the hardest part. Any hints for the reconnecting that rubber hose to the plastic lines, for the next time I have to do that?
I noticed that some washers have a panel on the front that allows direct access to this basket. I will make sure my next washing machine has one of those. Live and Learn.
One last question, the rubber boot has some mold in the bottom of it where water can sit after the washer is used. I have replaced it once before, and I will likely have to replace it again soon. Any tricks for removing the mold or preventing it from forming in there? Removing the machine’s front panel is not too difficult to do, but I would rather not do it too often and risking causing other problems with it.
Tim,
So after unplugging the washer it gets NO water filling into the tub? At 30 min it sits and does nothing? Are any lights flashing? Is the washer making a beeping noise? What happens if you leave the washer when it hangs at 30 min? Does it eventually start into the next cycle or is it in other words, frozen? The control board we mentioned is the one behind the controls.
-RR
Michael,
If not a control board malfunction… then yes the pump may be clogged and therefore the washer is giving the final spin cycle enough time to empty the water, but if the pump, drain hose, or drain in the wall is clogged or blocked, it will not drain the water out. Try checking the drain hose, drain pump, drain filter, and the wall drain. Be sure there are no clogs and try a wash cycle again. If the problem persists it may be a control board issue or other. Let us know what you find.
-RR
For my washer that wouldn’t spin, the Master Reset procedure (unplug, replug, open and close of door 6 times) fixed my washer; it did the trick like magic! Thank you so much to those who post this type of information on the internet! The postings and how to videos have invaluable to me over the years, saving me time, money, and a lot of angst. I would never know how to do a lot of things without the posted information. I changed a water pump on a washer one time in 10 minutes, I’ve repaired lawnmowers, pressure washers, dryers, installed appliances, etc, and now this master reset procedure.
I have a frigidaire affinity front loading washer model number FAFW3511KW0 that is 6 years old. When it enters the Final Spin cycle it stops. We come to the machine thinking it is finished and open the door, but there is water in the machine and, clearly the clothes have not spun. When we close the door and press the start/pause button, the machine will pick up where it left off. I tried unplugging and plugging back in for one minute, then opening and closing the door six times within 12 seconds. Then, I ran a the machine in the quick setting without any items in it. It ran flawlessly. So, I did a load in the Normal/causal setting, and the problem arose again.
I did notice on the quick cycle that the first think it does when it enters the Final Spin is that it drains the water, and I could hear the water drain. I was observing while I did the load, and, at the start of the Final Spin, I heard a sound that resembled a motor, but I did not hear the water drain. Would this be a problem with the pump being clogged and preventing it from draining or something else?
I unplugged the washer and set washer on express wash. I am getting nothing no water anymore, it sits on 30 min doing nothing. When you say control board is that the one on the bottom of machine or top, or the other way around. Thanks for all your help.
Hi Tim. Several months ago, I also had spin problems with my front load Kenmore washer [a different model number than yours]. I had performed the Reset steps to no avail. I had replaced the door switch to no avail. It turned out to me my Motor Control Board [Spin Control Board], which is situated at the bottom left rear of the Washer. It was easy to remove, with only 2 Philips head screws and to just unplug the connector. There were no/no burn marks on my ‘faulty’ Motor Control Board, either…..So, I do not think a ‘visual’ is always the absolute test. Anyway, I checked out eBay and got one for a reasonable cost. Prior to making this purchase, I download a few YouTube repair videos and exhaustively searched thru the different manufacturers of my Kenmore…..Because the brand name ‘Kenmore’ by Sears, is made by different manufacturers, ie: Frigidaire, etc. What helped me properly identify the part was the ‘visual’ close up of the item, and I compared the numbers. NOTE: If you finally decide to replace your Motor Control Board, please handle the new one with ‘care’, because after all, it is a ‘computer’, and ensure you are not grounded. My replacement came in a ‘bubble pack’ to protect the fragile item. You can also check my previous comments of several months ago re my repair journey. I hope this helps you with your repair. The bottom line with these front loaders is that the stainless steel tubs are joined with the spyder arms of aluminum and after some years the corrosion issues tend to fouls the bearings in the tub, and sometimes, the aluminum spyder arm breaks and the tub bangs around! Anyway, check out the internet for repair videos which can be very useful in building your confidence…..If you have the time, you can save $$$ by doing your own repair. Regards, from Western Canada, ‘John’
Tim,
It sounds as if you may have a faulty control board. As a test, can you run the washer on the shortest wash cycle completely empty and let us know what you find?
-RR
I have a Kenmore front load washer Model # 110.47566600. The washer will run water, then tub won’t move, drain water, then tub will not move on spin cycle. The timer starts 56 min then stops and freezes on 7, which is the spin cycle. I have checked the control board on top and control motor board on bottom and did not see any black marks or anything that is not normal. I unplugged all of the wires are re-plugged them back in. The machine is doing the same thing. Please help Thanks……
Tim,
It could be the control panel if you have to unplug the washer every time to reset it. Can we have the model number of your Kenmore front load washer?
-RR
My Kenmore front load washer starts up and the lights come on. The machine goes through the cycles but the tub will not move when its time to wash. The machine freezes and will not move when the spin cycle comes on. I have to unplug every time. Is it the motor or the control panel… Please help…
Nick,
This may be obvious but you did not mention it above… Have you checked the belt, lid switch, pulleys, transmission? Let us know what you find.
-RR
TIll,
Bearing, Transmission, Pulley, Etc…
-RR
I have an older Whirlpool washing machine top loader. It makes motor noise but does not spin. There’s no funny smell or anything. The clutch is good, and the coupler is good. Any ideas? Thank you
Any ideas when the issue is not the coupler nor the clutch? I’ve spent all day online and frustrations are high. Thank you
Jennifer,
IS the light on the control flashing or blinking? It may be trying to tell you a fault code. What do you do to get the light to go off so you can start the washer? Once you get it running, and it starts to spin, does it fill with water first? Is the draining noise actually coming from the drain pump? How long does this happen and when it does what is happening with the control panel? Any type of flashing or codes?
-RR
I have a Maytag 9000 series front load washer. I already replaced the old pump thinking that was the problem. The issue is the machine’s control light stays on and when I do get it to go off the was machine starts. Then it start to spin then stop midway and makes a draining noise, but nothing comes out. Unplugged and plugged back in and open and closed the door six times and no change. I don’t know what do to next. I’m close to calling it quits and ordering a new control panel. Please help!!
Benni,
See our page here that describes what to check and How to fix a Samsung washing machine with error code 4E.
-RR
Hi, i have a Samsung top loader WA10F5S5 model. I experienced an error code 4E. I’ve tried all troubleshooting suggestions and all seems not working. The problem occurs half way filling the tub and all of the sudden that 4E error code started to buzz and it drains away the half filled water immediately. What seems to be the problems? I tried to set on spin mode, and it spins well. But when i try do the normal, cycle. The 4E problem repeats.
Tony Hong,
Can you please give us the model number of your Samsung washing machine?
-RR
Leo,
If you have replaced the lid switch and motor coupling on your top load Whirlpool washer, the next thing to check is to see if the clutch is slipping. You may have a bad clutch or the transmission could leak oil on the clutch and cause it to slip therefore causing your not spinning or Have to assist washer drum by hand to spin. Have you examined the transmission and the clutch?
-RR
I have a Whirlpool Washer, which is giving me a headache because it appears it did not spin at the end of washing cycle. I initially thought it was a spin cycle problem. But after watching more closely the entire cycle, I realized it is more a problem that starts at the beginning of draining cycle. My washer fills water okay, agitates okay, and then when it drains the water, it should normally start spinning with draining water. But it does not despite draining itself is okay, and does not spin at all after that even for the high spin cycle at the end. Interestingly, if I give a quick manual spin when it does not start spinning at the draining cycle, it does perfectly well and finishes washing including spin cycle. Another interesting thing is that this problem occurred only intermittently before, but now all the time. There is no abnormal noise or anything. Without knowing this problem, I replaced lid switch and motor coupling, but did not help at all. Any suggestions what is the problem and if I can fix it? Thank you in advance.
My Samsung washing machine will wash but when it time to spin fast to dry the clothing on spin cycle it won’t spin fast. Just a slow turn and it makes one beeping sound the one it notified u when it is done. PLEASE HELP.
Sam,
Have you tried unplugging the washer to reset it? It may be a simple fix to reset the washer. If that does not work let us know and we can help further. What country are you in?
-RR
April,
If you have an older top loading washer and it will not spin, the MOST likely issue is the lid switch. Check to be sure when the lid shuts it is depressing on the lid switch. You should hear a clicking noise when you close the lid. It may be an electrical issue meaning the lid switch is bad or possibly the lid is not able to depress the lid switch.
-RR
I have a washer that is an older model and it is a top loader and it will not spin on the rinse cycle. What can I do to fix it?
Tony,
It will all depend on what type of front load washer you have. If the washer was overloaded and the drum has become loose or just simply will not turn, then yes either the belt, motor, pulley, transmission, clutch, or a bracket holding the drum has broken or cracked. You will need to unplug the washer from power, remove the panel, and visually inspect the inside for obvious signs of damage or broken parts. Remove and replace parts as necessary.
-RR
John,
Your Amana washer may have a siphoning issue. Be sure the drain hose at back is at the correct height. Sometimes if the drain hose is positioned to far down, the washer will fill with water and immediately drain it out in a siphoning/gravity feed situation. Solution: Reposition drain hose.
-RR
Amana Washer NTW4501XQ0. Problem with final rinse. Water will fill then immediately pump out without agitating.
I have a front loading washing machine, I overloaded it on one occasion, and the drum has stopped rotating and it has come loose, the motor still works when the machine is turned on but the drum does not rotate.
Can you please advice me what the fault could be and if it can be repaired. if it is just the belt come loose or could it be something else?
Thank you DIY for the tips on correcting the ‘slow spin’ issue. Mine is a Panasonic Washing Machine (NA-107VC4), only a little more than a year old. It was acting up as the fast spin mode could not be activated, leaving behind a load of dripping wet laundry. So I did as you suggested a power ‘master reset’. But it took me to do that 3 times before the operation was normalized.
I have a Daewoo DWD-MH1011 Front load washing machine. It gets half way into a normal cycle and stops spinning.
It beeps twice every second or so and all the lights flash on the front except for the ‘wash’ and ‘start/pause’ light.
The belt is in good condition and its less than 18 months old. Any suggestions?
Bridgette,
If your Whirlpool front load washer will not spin at high speed when fully loaded with clothing, you may not have the exact belt replacement. If the belt is a bit larger than the original Whirlpool OEM belt, it will spin empty but once a heavy clothing load is added, the washer will spin but the belt slips and therefore cannot spin fast. You may also have a pulley or other component that is not letting the belt be as tight as needed. You may need to adjust the motor position, pulley position, or possibly the belt is not riding the pulleys correctly, maybe upside down and that is causing the slipping? Do you smell any burning rubber or electrical smell when the washer is running? Does the drum spin freely when you turn it by hand?
-RR
I have a Whirlpool front loader, Model number is Ywfw9050xw00. We have replaced the pump and the belt, and will still not high speed spin under load.. If it’s empty it will high speed spin… Can anyone help?
Susan,
You may have a lid switch issue or lid door lock issue that is causing the washer to not spin. Have you tried testing the lid switch or have a look to see if there is a belt or pulley issue inside the washer?
-RR
I have a Whirlpool Top load and everything works with the exception of the spin cycle. The water will fill but will not agitate (I do not have an agitator, but it spins and shifts back and forth), it will drain but will not spin. Every time I pull clothes out, I have to wring the water out of them before putting in the dryer. The washer is only 3 years old too.
S,
Usually the belt won’t cause that to happen. The HALL SENSOR may be the culprit. If the motor and belt are in good working order, the hall sensor should be replaced.
-RR
Yes, the motor does move and when I have only a couple of items in the tub it seems ok. I hear what sound to me like a slipping or rubbing sound. Could the belt just be loose or stretched out? Or something more serious?
S,
Amana E3 Error means the machine control is trying to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response. Does the motor move? If motor is locked it could be the motor, wiring, or the hall sensor. The hall sensor is an internal part of the washers motor. It relays the info to the machines control board.
-RR
My Amana front load NFW7200 washer will not finish the wash cycle. It indicates E3 code. I have tried the master reset and no go. It runs fine when not loaded. When loaded, it stops in the wash cycle or sometimes makes it to the rinse and spin and stops with the E3 code. If I pause it and let the load sit for a while and then resume, it will sometimes continue through the cycle. I looked at the belt, not that I know what I’m looking for, and it looks fine. Any suggestions?
Chris,
If you have a front load washer, clean out the front drain filter. Whatever washer type you have, check the drain hose for any type of blockage or bends. Be sure the washer can drain into the actual drain in the wall as the actual drain may be clogged also. No matter what type of Kenmore washer you have, check the drain pump for any type of foreign debris as anything blocking it will cause your washing machine to NOT SPIN and NOT DRAIN.
-RR
My Kenmore will not drain or spin how can I fix it and I’ve tried everything.
Karli,
SUD means too much detergent is being used.
FO2 means a drain issue..
1 – Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged up or bent.
2 – Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is functioning.
3 – Check the drain pump filter for gunk clogging it.
If the problem does not go away after doing the above, replace the pump.
-RR
Shawn,
Is the error code on your Samsung washer 1E or IE? 0E or OE? Please give us the exact current error code and your Samsung model number.
-RR
It’s a Kenmore Elite He3t. I cleared out the pump, below the washer and attempted to drain/spin with the washer empty. Worked perfectly, I did this twice. I then put a very small load of towels and the code “sud” appeared. I put in two more towels and it started making noises. The code “fo2″ just appeared.
Karli,
Are you getting an error code on your front load washer? Usually on a front load washer, if it is not spinning or draining, you have a problem with the drain pump being clogged, jammed or the drain hose is bent or clogged also. Can you tell us the model number of your washer?
-RR
My front load washer isn’t draining nor spinning. What should I do to fix the problem?
My Samsung washing machine 13kg top loader when I plug it in it goes on of itself and gave me the error code OE and IE.
Lia,
Can you tell us the exact model number of your washer so we can direct you to dissemble the washer to get to the drain pump?
-RR
I checked the filter, it’s cleaned, but I don’t know how to inspect the drain pump, if anything is jammed inside it. Can you please help me with that, any video or advise on how to do that.
Zack Copo,
Usually an older top load washer that will not rinse or drain means there is an issue with the drain system. The imbalance should not have anything to do with NO RINSE and NO DRAIN. Check the washer drain hose for clogs or bends. Check the drain pump to be sure there is nothing blocking it. If the drain pump is blocked, jammed, or clogged, the washer will not rinse or drain.
-RR
I have a old Whirlpool washer and it runs but doesn’t rinse or drain I was told it might be from being off balance but wouldn’t that make the whole thing not run?
Gerry,
If your washing machine does not spin check to make sure the door has latched completely. The led light that comes on may mean a bad sensor, control board or other. If the motor does not operate at all the motor control board could be bad. You can visually inspect it and if the board is bad the components will be burnt.
-RR
I have a Kenmore front load washer (970-C48082). I believe manufactured by Frigidaire. All of sudden when you start a load the water starts filling for a couple of seconds and then the led light that says high spin goes to No Spin and everything stops. I have checked for blockages….draining and filling were fine before this happened. Any ideas?
Chris,
The tension on the belt is not correct. You may have the wrong size belt or the belt pulleys that it sits on are not spaced correctly to provide the perfect tension on the belt. You may have a worn out or slightly bent pulley. Have you checked to be sure nothing is worn out, bent, and the belt you installed is the exact match to the old one?
-RR
My Amana top load washer won’t spin. The other day I took it apart and found that the drive belt was snapped in half on the floor. I thought great, easy fix! I bought a new drive belt and installed it. Now, the washer agitates fine and drains fine but when it gets to the fast spin cycle the motor runs, the spindles are spinning quickly but the belt isn’t moving and obviously the washer isn’t spinning. The belt moves fine when it agitates though. Does anyone have any ideas?
Rachael,
Is it going off balance because of a large over filled wash load? Have you tried washing a short wash with the washer empty? You may have bad tub holders or springs may have come off and therefore the washer is off balance. If you are not overloading the washer, have a look under the washer to see if a tub stabilizer has fallen off therefore causing the off balance issue.
-RR
Ben,
Can you give us the make and model number of your washer? Have you tested the lid switch if you have a top loader?
-RR
Gabreal,
What is the make and model of your washer?
-RR
Darlene,
Yes the timer may have bad spots or burnt spots on it therefore the timer does not work on certain wash cycles. Remove and replace the timer using the videos you have referred too. It is an easy job just be sure you have the power OFF to the washer.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 700 washer that stops at the spin cycle. I have to turn the knob back to spin and it will start again; however, it takes 3 times of doing this before the clothes are ready for the dryer. Sears told us it was the TIMER and said it will cost over $300, so we should just buy a new one. I found the part and it’s only $100 and a video on youtube.com shows how easy it is to replace. I just wanted to make sure that this could be the actual problem.
My washer won’t drain when switching over too spin what could be wrong?
My washer works but when it comes to spin dry its not spinning and the motor is fine.
My Samsung top loading washing machine will attempt to spin but starts going off balance and will shut off and start the whole load over again.
Sam,
At what point did your Hitachi top load washer stop and receive the FD error code? During wash, rinse, or drain? Do you have a serial number for your machine?
-RR
Hi, I am using Hitachi SF-95 top loading. Stopped and giving Fd error code..please help
Nmwallace,
If lid switch is working electrically and mechanically, then you may have an issue with a semi clogged drain pump, or a control/timer issue. Have you tried looking at pump to see if clogged? Also check drain hose and drain where water comes out. May be a blockage. Do you have a multimeter to test timer/switches?
-RR
I have a Maytag that will fill and agitate normal but will not drain and spin. The cycle knob will continue to end cycle without rinse or spinning, and full of water. Sometimes after opening and closing lid and turning knob to rinse cycle it will drain some and try to spin very slowly and then stop. Tested lid switch, seems to be fine. Please help, desperate to do laundry in Cal.
I was skeptical about the pump being the problem, but I wired it directly to 110, and it worked. After that, I ran through a short cycle, and it was ok. Not sure what happened, but it works fine now. Thanks for your help.
Norm,
Your GE front loader may stop at that moment and the door issue occurs as you may have a blocked drain pump or drain hose. This means at the final rinse, it drains the water out. If the pump is blocked, the washer cannot drain. Check drain pump for something that may be clogged in there or a bent or clogged drain hose.
-RR
Arie,
Hitachi washing machine error code f9 means a PUMP FAULT. Check the pump to be sure it is getting power. Check to be sure it is not clogged or jammed. Check pump hose to be sure there is no blockage. Do you have a multimeter?
-RR
I have a top loading Hitachi washing machine, model SF160GJ MG serial no. 20800208. It doesn’t spin and a error signal shows F9. What is your advice to solve the problem?
I have a GE front loader which acts normal until it goes to the final rinse cycle. It agitates back and forth normally, and then abruptly the door unlocked light goes on, and all activity stops before the rinse cycle starts. This happens on all of the different settings, such as “delicate” or “normal”. I have tried the reset thing, but to no help.
Alex,
Candy washing machine displaying an E3 error means:
The washer has not drained in time allowed – washing machine fails to drain out water
Check that filter is not blocked or obstructed, Check drain hose is clear of any blockage or obstruction, Check wiring to drain pump, Check drain pump is not defective, Check level sensor or switch, Check wiring to level sensor.
-RR
I have a Candy front loading washing machine, model GO 510/1-16S, S/N 3100246608370593, that will work fine in all cycles, but without any load. When I place any kind of load, even a very light one, the machine will stop mid cycle giving an E3 (I think) fault code.
Add “check drum rotation” to troubleshooting chart. If the drum doesn’t rotate freely, check to see if the pump is jammed or the drum is jammed. If not, the bearing has seized. On a Frigidaire front loader, check for the presence of the pump filter. If missing, that may be the source of the drum jam. Shine a flashlight through the drum and if you find a clear plastic tube jammed behind the drum, that’s the problem.
Camil,
Bosch washer error code E23 means a fault with the drain pump. This would mean that either the drain pump, wiring or main control board is bad. The code means the wrong resistance value from the drain pump. Try and unplug the washer for 10 minutes to reset it. If you still get error E23 you need to begin testing parts with a multimeter, most likely you have a bad drain pump.
-RR
I need a help, my washing machine shows me fault error code E23. It’s Bosch way32890sn. It was stopping pump but now pump is working normal. I tested water going out. I can’t open door. When I want start machine coming up fault e23. Please help me.
Ekimmy,
If your Amana washer will wash and rinse but will not spin it could mean the lid switch is not working but the timer keeps going thus allowing it to rinse. You may also have a bad clutch or transmission issue. Can you supply us with the model number of your Amana washer?
-RR
My Amana wash machine will wash and Rinse but will not spin turns on and off with no problem.
Richard,
Have you washed a large load of towels or blankets in the last load? If the washer senses an imbalance it will try to correct the problem and display an error code. If you have no error code, the control board may need reset. Have you made sure the drain filter is back in place correctly? Your washer may not be operating properly if the drain pump is clogged, when you cleaned the filter, was it full of gunk? Is your washer on level ground? Was it moved lately? Have you tried washing on a quick wash cycle with no clothing and see what happens? Try a few test washes and see if the washer gives you an error code. You may have a loose wire harness somewhere near the board causing your issue too. Check to be sure all wire harnesses are attached and secure.
-RR
Kyle,
Does your front load washer make any type of scraping, rubbing, or screeching noises when running? If not spinning and it seems to jump out of place, does it show an error code? Can you supply us with the full model and serial number?
-RR
Lisa,
A burnt board can be fixed if you know what component on the board is bad. Is the burnt area of the control board for your Bosch washing machine a capacitor? If so a capacitor can be purchased for next to nothing and re-soldered into place. If the board is not repairable by yourself… Have you checked to see what prices are for a new board? Most modern new style washers can be very expensive, a board may cost 1/8th of the price of a new washer. You could buy a used board or have it repaired by a professional. Do some research and you may be able to get the board fixed for much much cheaper than a new board or for that matter a new washer.
-RR
Maggie,
Can you give us your washing machine symptoms? Model number of your Whirlpool?
If lid switch did not fix your washer, you may have a wiring problem, or possibly the lid is not coming in contact with your lid switch. Do you hear a clicking sound when you shut the washer lid?
-RR
Just replaced the lid switch on my Whirlpool washer and still doesn’t work can you tell me what it could be? Do you have any ideas?
We have a BOSCH MAXX900. It has stopped spinning. After reading your advice, we took the main board off and can see a burnt out area on the main board/control panel. Would it be worth getting a new main board or is it more worthy to purchase a new washing machine.?? Appreciate your advice. Thank you in advance. Kind Regards Lisa.
I have a front load Kenmore 4906 model. It drains fine but will not spin. I opened the back and the motor is turning, but not the drum inside. You can turn the inside drum by hand and it seems to “lock” into place. As soon as the washer calls to spin it “jumps” out of place. Is this something I can fix myself? A coupler or something?
My Electrolux ewf1495 front load washer won’t spin in any of the settings. It wants to spin in both directions but a couple of attempts it stops. No codes are showing on the control panel and I have tried the master reset without any success, I have cleaned the drain filter. Plus I read the manual provided and it says something about a electronic unbalance detection device? Any suggestions?
Bonnie,
Your drain pump is most likely clogged or jammed with foreign objects. You will need to take the pump apart and remove anything lodging inside to fix the issue.
-RR
Ok so i did reset on the machine and tried it this morning. It is running through cycles and spinning but whining very loudly there is no smell coming from it. It is not draining when i checked the drain hose during the drain cycle it was just trickling.
Bonnie,
Unload the washer completely. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes. See if that resets the washer. Humming may mean a belt or other part broke or is not working properly if the washer was heavily overloaded. Can you please provide us with a make and model number of your washer and we can assist with helping you fix your washer?
-RR
Jerry,
Please supply us with a make and model number of your washer. If the washer is not spinning, what error signal shows up? An error code or a beeping? If there is an error code please let us know the code and we can provide answers to fix.
-RR
The reset trick worked, thank you
My washing machine has a start up problem. When you start it the water will pump in then it is supposed to spin. It doesn’t spin and a error signal shows up. It takes a while of trying and it will finally work.
I overloaded my washer. Now it will not do anything. It stopped after the wash cycle. Water still in tub. I unloaded it. Let the timer still run it tries to start and then just hums for a minute and then stops. Will not do anything else.
Lori,
Most likely you have a bad lid switch. If the lid switch is faulty, the machine will agitate the clothing but will not spin or drain. If you have a meter you can test the lid switch or check it visually and make sure the washer plunger is pushing on it when the top load door closes.
-RR
We have a top loader Maytag Bravo washer that doesn’t spin. Clothes are drenched. We tried resetting and that didn’t help. Any advice?
Nicole,
If machine is buzzing, that MAY mean a part is binding up and unable to move. You could have a number of issues. First, be sure the lid switch is in working order. Then check drain hose and drain pump to be sure nothing is clogged and making the washer unable to drain. Buzzing may also mean a bad motor, bad timer switch or other. Check the components we mentioned and go from there. Any other questions? We will be happy to answer.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 80 series top leading washer (model#23812100) that won’t drain or spin (or anything else at this point). For a while now, every so many loads, it wouldn’t fully spin the water out of the clothes. It would complete the cycle, but the clothes would still be soaking wet. I just did a 2nd rinse cycle and when I came back to it, it’s full of water (no suds). No matter where I turn the dial, it makes a slight buzzing noise, but nothing happens. I did unplug it for a minute and opened and closed the lid a dozen times, but still nothing.
Leo,
We mean all the components you mentioned. If you do not have a meter or do not know how to use one, get one and learn, it will save you loads of money in the long run. In the meantime…
Check the wiring harnesses on ALL components to be they are secure. The main control board may be faulty, check it for burn marks and other obvious signs of damage.
-RR
“Was the door lock assembly you bought OEM or generic replacements? If after installing the door lock the machine worked, but the second wash attempt did not, then either a sensor or possibly wiring is to blame. Does the current door lock assembly test okay with a meter?”
I bought the door lock assembly from amazon and it had the same part number as the original. I don’t have a meter to test the assembly. You mentioned that “either a sensor or possibly wiring is to blame,” Did you mean the master “control board sensor” or the “wire harness kit” for the door lock assembly? Thanks.
Matzc2v,
Please supply us with model number and a detailed description of your Samsung washer issue.
-RR
Hopewell Maxwell,
Samsung Washer Error Code OE = Too much washing liquid may have been added. Remove power to the appliance, wait 30 seconds then turn the power supply back on. The drain pump should operate to drain the washing machine.
-RR
My Samsung top loader model WA13V9 has been idle for some time. I went to use it and it comes on and before you finish giving commands it times out and displays error: 0E. What could be the problem?
I have problem with Samsung washer machine. It cant spin. Can you solve my problem?
Tim,
It sounds like either the clutch or motor coupler is worn out and causing your issue (if you have a top load washer). Can you give us make and model of your washing machine to assist further?
-RR
Sarah,
Can you supply us with the model number of your Bosch Maxx Washing Machine?
-RR
Thank you, thank you so much for this clearly written and easy to follow tutorial. I thought I was going to have to replace my Whirlpool top loader, and with two special needs kids at home we just don’t have the extra income to spend. A simple reset did the trick! We are thrilled!
I have a Bosch Maxx which I’ve had for years. The drum has suddenly stopped turning – I have tried the reset you suggested – unplugging it for a minute, then opening and closing the door six times. I tried starting a short wash and it filled up, but still didn’t turn. It drains fine. Nothing happens when I put it on ‘Spin’ only. Any ideas what I could try next?
I have an 18 year old washer that has a random problem with spinning. After washing it goes to drain and spin but sometimes it gets stuck and only drains with a somewhat loud motor hum. It may catch with a clunk and start spinning, or it may wait until it reverses direction where it will catch. If you hear it humming you can go and lift the lid. As soon as the motor spins to a stop there is a clunk and then you close the lid. Spins fine until the next full spin cycle starts. Everything else works fine. I don’t want to replace the wrong component so I would love some expert help!
Mad,
Have you checked the lid or door switch? If your washer will not spin, usually the lid or door switch is bad. Test with a meter to be sure.
-RR
Delvin,
When your top load washer is spinning, the rubber belt is in use. If you smell rubber burning, then the belt is about to shred or is misaligned. You should order a new belt for your washer. Inspect the washer first to be sure the belt is causing your issue. This is a common issue with many top load washers. Burning rubber smell = bad belt or misaligned belt.
-RR
I have a Frigidaire Gallery top loader which washes fine but when it comes down to spinning and draining the water off the clothes its not working and also I smell of rubbery burning smell what could it be?
I have a Toshiba AW-8480 SM, from time to time i do forget some coins in my pants pocket. Usually i remove the PULSATOR so i can remove the coins from under it and then put every thing back together. Two days ago i did the same thing except i forgot to put back the washer that in between the PULSATOR the drive shaft. I did replace it with a new washer but the spinning cycle does not work, i tried to spin only but it also refuse to spin. Is it the washer problem or something else?
Paul Dunne,
It sounds as if something such as a wiring harness or an electrical component came loose or detached when you replaced the bearing. It may have been something loose to begin with and taking the washer apart made it detach. We would suggest to trace all wiring harnesses from the top controls and move downward. There may be a motor control sensor that is loose. Find the loose wire and secure it into its original position. If it turns out to NOT be a loose wiring issue, let us know and we can troubleshoot further.
-RR
I have a Bosch classic 1000 express front load washing machine. Approx 10 yrs old. The machine was working fine except for the bearing on the motor was getting a bit noisy. I replaced the bearing but now the machine does not appear to complete any cycles. It will fill and empty no problem. But when it starts to spin it is like it is loosing the run signal and stops, then it times out and moves to the next phase of the wash cycle. I have tried the same with the belt removed to eliminate imbalance in the drum, even though it appears fine. Any help would be appreciated.
Sean Grant,
If your clothing is “foamy” you may be using to much detergent. If there is a pool of water in the bottom, you may have a drain issue. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes to try and reset. Next, run a short wash cycle on cold empty. Also, your washing machine model number will help us to get to a more exact recommendation.
-RR
When I completed a load of washing this morning, the clothes were still very foamy. Now my wife has tried to do the load again and there is still a pool of water in the bottom. Also, the machine will now not spin at all. Please help
Nelson,
Samsung washing machine error code 1E is an indication of “oversudsing” or a water level error. This is almost always caused by using too much bleach, softener, detergent or non-HE detergent. However, this could mean there is an issue with the water level sensor.
-RR
Samsung washing machine does not spin.. after it comes on for 5 seconds, it just displays 1E and drains all water.. and at this stage it hangs.
Taresa,
If the washer is humming and not draining, the drain pump is either clogged, bad, or drain hose is crimped. Check all drain components and if all check good then more than likely the timer on your top load washer has gone bad and needs to be replaced.
-RR
We have an old top loader washing machine… I started a wash and the machine has filled with water but now it sounds like timer is not connecting or something. The timer is making the humming, clicking noise but washer isn’t doing anything. Now it’s full of water just sitting there. Please help!!! Thanks!!
Terry,
The “od” error code means The door has not been opened after two complete wash cycles. Door switch was not seen open since the last two final spins Diagnostic code 17.
Possible issue is bad door switch, test with a multimeter to be sure.
-RR
My Kenmore model #24832200 will just click in the wash or spin cycle. The water will drain from the tub.. Advice to solve this problem?
I have an Amana NFW7200TW front load washing machine. I changed the door lever on Tuesday, we were able to do a few loads of laundry, but now the machine is throwing the “od” code, something about open door or haven’t closed the door in 2 cycles. I can’t remember the exact wording and don’t have manual with me. Will this reset work? Or is there something else wrong? Thanks!
Ros,
Can you give us more info? What exactly happens when your Toshiba washer goes through a cycle? Everything works as normal except spin? Have you opened up back of machine to see if there are any obvious signs of a problem?
-RR
Having problems with Toshiba washing machine aw-8480 s that cannot spin but still can wash clothes. Can you please advice me to solve the problem.
Thank ya’ll so much! I’m going to borrow a multimeter today and hopefully get some definitive answers as to what to replace!
Oscar,
The first and main error code E54 means the Control Unit is not getting the signal that the motor is turning so it shuts off. The problem could be in the control board, inverter, wiring, motor, or the door lock assembly. Check all of the wiring harnesses. Clean and reset all of the electrical connections. If that does not fix the washer then replace the control unit. This fixes the issue you are having most of the time but not guaranteed. If you have a multimeter it would really help to test the components we have listed before replacing anything.
-RR
The codes that are given are the following:
E54
E42
E22
E48
Thanks again!
Oscar,
It sounds as if a large load of clothing pushed the washer out of balance by being overloaded. If everything worked properly in diagnostic mode except spin, it may be a damaged or faulty door locking assembly, your drain pump may be clogged or inoperable from objects being pumped into it. Did the error codes have a letter in front of them like E52 or E48? Please try and see the exact error codes and get back to us after you try the master reset. Your washer may not respond to the washer reset but if you can give us the EXACT error codes, we can assist further.
-RR
I have a front loading GE washing machine. I’m not sure what the model is, but these are the model numbers that show up on our owners/repairs manual :
1. GBVH6250
2. GCVH6260
3. WCVH6260
4. WBVH6240
5. WHDVH626
The washer has been having several issues that I unfortunately can’t figure out. When the machine was working, it was going through cycles and pausing numerous times. It didn’t matter what cycle it was set on, it would pause frequently. After dealing with the pausing for a few days, we noticed that it would have some really rough final spins while still having pausing issues(not sure if it was simply because of being loaded improperly/consisted of towels and jeans). A few days after that, the machine has stopped spinning and filling and it only performs the drain function. It sounds like it’s stuck on a continuous drain cycle no matter which was cycle we put it in (I’m also sure there is no water in the machine what it’s trying to drain).
After this all occurred, I decided to pull off the top panel and the back panel to take a better look (not mechanically inclined so not sure how much good this did). The belt looks good and it is still attached. I turned the drum manually to make sure it wasn’t suck or grinding on anything and it turned nicely. I checked the Hot and Cold water connections to make sure there was no build-up (read somewhere that this might cause some of the problems I’m experiencing). These connections were fine. Water pressure was also fine. I checked all of the bolts and wires and didn’t notice anything that stuck out as a “red-flag”. I drained pump at the bottom of the washer and found multiple items lodged in the hose. Took the time to take everything out and put it back on. Since I don’t have an electrical reader of any sort I was unable to check and see if my control module/motor were working properly. The motor “seemed” fine but I’m not an expert so I was just looking at it cosmetically.
After all of this I looked up how to put the washer in a diagnostic mode. Once in the diagnostic mode I performed a few tests to see what all was working. The washer will do everything BUT any of the spin diagnostics. It will fill up with hot/cold water (I found this curious because it won’t do it when the washer is out of diagnostic mode). It will light up to check all LED’s, and it will pump water out. Just not spin. I also got some codes (Hopefully I wrote them down right): 52, 48, 22.
A friend of mine is convinced that it is the pump and that I need to replace it…but I’m not so sure. When I go home today I’ll try the “Master Rest” but hopefully you have some suggestions so I don’t go and buy numerous/unnecessary parts! Thank you so much!
My problem, after replacing the door lock switch, and also, doing the resets. It ended up being the Motor Control Board or Spin Control Board, which is located at the rear, left bottom of my Sears-Kenmore [Frigidaire] front loading washer. I was able to access one on eBay, after I did thorough research of my particular model. I saved mega bucks by installing the new board myself. My Control Board was held down by only 2 Philips head screws and is connected by a wiring harness that is easily unplugged. Please make sure your machine is unplugged and that you are grounded when you ‘touch’ your New Control Board…… Again, Computers are sensitive, even to static. My machine, over ten years old, is up and running again. Plus, I am aware of the time-bomb with the inner stainless steel tub that is connected to the Aluminum spider assembly which holds the shaft…….Corrosion issues! Hope you can find my previous comments made several weeks, months ago. I really have researched this. The Control/Spin Board is a very easy fix for you!
Leo,
Were the door lock assy you bought OEM or generic replacements? If after installing the door lock the machine worked, but the second wash attempt did not, then either a sensor or possibly wiring is to blame. Does the current door lock assy test ok with a meter?
-RR
Jean-Guy,
Have you taken apart the control panel and inspected for loose wire harnesses? Check wires to be sure the vibration has not loosened something. If all else checks out you may need to look into replacing the board or timer.
-RR
Thanks for your prompt response. I failed to mention that my machine is front load and and as you mentioned, the pump does not seem to be the culprit of the SPIN cycle not engaging since it works when I managed to bypass manually the 9 min mark on the Quick Wash program (where it got stuck for a patient 10-15 min.) I suspect the timer in the electronics panel is at fault because when the program reaches 9 min the machine makes a little noise and then nothing follows. This seems to repeat every 2-3 minutes. I would not know how to identify the timer component of the electronics panel…..
Thank you so much for your wonderful master reset tip that got my Frigidaire Affinity Front Load Washer (ATF8000FS1) to start. The nagging problem is its inability to start even though all the lights are on. I even replaced the door lock assembly twice to no avail (worked once or twice). Your tip got it to start; however, the second load did not work and I had to press the Start button quickly many times to get it to start again.
So, it appears the washer is still having some problems by not starting consistently. Do you have any suggestions? I have tried to ask a repairman to come but had to cancel because I got it to start after replacing the door lock assembly but then it failed again. Another problem is the location of the washer as it is stacked beneath a dryer in a tight closet. Thus, having it repaired could be very costly due to the placement. Otherwise, I would think I could attempt some repairs myself.
Kim,
If the washer works fine when removing the drain tube to floor level, that means either the drain tube is positioned too high up, the drain in the wall is clogged, or both. First determine if the drain hose is positioned properly. If so, you may need to have someone come out and check the actual drain in the wall to be sure it is not plugged up.
-RR
Jean-Guy,
You may have 2 problems. Yes the broken blade can be an issue but if it drains at one point and not another, than not likely your MAIN cause. Most likely you have a wacky lid switch or a timer that has bad or burned spots. If you have a multimeter test the timer and while you are at it have a look at the lid switch. Make sure switch is aligned properly.
-RR
I have an Amana washer Model NFW7200TW and after the machine completes the wash rinse cycle, the spin cycle does not engage. It is like if the timer is out of wack. Is the computer at fault here? The pump does not drain the water properly, only in the middle of the wash cycle. I opened the back panel and removed the pump. Upon examination, I noticed that one of the 3 blades is broken. I assume there is imbalance in the functioning of the pump. Can it be the cause of the erratic working of the spin cycle?
Our Amana front loading washer was making a low pitched gravely sound (not buzzing) and would not drain. We purchased and installed a new pump, but the same thing happened. If I lower the drain tubing the water does flow out and then the spin cycle will work. Any ideas what else could be wrong?
MY MAYTAG TOP LOADING WASHER WILL NOT COMPLETE THE SPIN CYCLE. IT WAS MOVED FROM A FIRST FLOOR LOCATION WHERE IT DRAINED INTO A STANDPIPE NEXT TO THE WASHER. I MOVED IT TO A BASEMENT LOCATION AT ANOTHER SITE THAT WAS PREVIOUSLY SET UP TO DRAIN WASHER OVERHEAD AN DOWN INTO A CEILING DRAIN. THIS MACHINE HAS A REAR DRAIN HOSE LOCATED AT THE REAR AND BOTTOM OF THE MACHINE. dOES IT REQUIRE A IN-LINE CHECK VALVE TO FASCILITATE DRAINING?? iT SHUT DOWN HALWAY THRU THE SPIN CYCLE AS IF THE WATER IS DRAINING BACK INTO THE HOSE AND SHUTTING THE MACHINE DOWN???
Rubbie,
Either lid switch or drain pump.
Most likely the lid switch.
Buy one on Amazon or SearsPartsDirect for around 15 dollars.
-RR
Rick,
What is the model number of your Kenmore Top Loader?
Could be lid switch, clogged drain pump, or bad timer.
-RR
Follow up to our Washing Machine issue….
Threw it out, bought a new one. Loving the new one. Problem solved!
Kenmore top loader. It will fill and agitate but it will not spin and empty the water and the time does not progress.
It worked! Who would have thought that unplugging it and opening/closing the lid would reset the mechanism!!! Not me. Mine is working like a dream. Thanks for the money-saving tip!
i have a 10 year old Kenmore top loader washer. It does not spin on the rinse cycle or drain. What could be the problem?
Becky,
You may have a bad timer mechanism. If you have to move the timer to another setting after the initial wash cycle did not complete properly, you should test or replace the timer. We are assuming you have a another top load washer. What is the model number of your used Kenmore washer?
-RR
I had a Maytag top load that stopped draining and spinning. My husband took it out and bought a used Kenmore to replace it. It is now doing the same thing after only one week. However, if I run a drain and spin cycle after the normal cycle has finished, it will usually go ahead and drain and spin out the clothes. Any suggestions on this?
Melissa,
You may have an issue with the water pressure switch or possibly the control panel / timer. Check wiring behind control panel to be sure all wire harnesses are secure and attached.
-RR
I have a Samsung top loader (model WA400PJHDWR/AA) that runs through the cycles, but at the end, spins and instead of stopping, either starts the rinse cycle all over again or starts all the way at the beginning again! Is there anything I can try to fix it?
Shanna,
Have a look at the drain pump and hose. The drain pump may be clogged up or the drain hose could be kinked. What model number is your Maytag washer?
-RR
I have a Maytag washer and it washes but doesn’t drain well. We end up wring out the clothes at the bottom of washer
Leo,
The most likely reason for a top load washer to spins on occasion is……. The motor coupler or coupling is beginning to wear out slowly. As you probably know it is made of a hard plastic or hard rubber material. We would first suggest to open the washer up and check the coupling. You will probably see extreme wear meaning this is your issue and this is what needs to be replaced to fix the NO SPIN issue. Remove and replace.
-RR
Hi, I am glad to find this website. I have a top load Whirlpool washer, and have an issue with spinning. It agitates fine, drains fine, but won’t spin. I can hear a good motor sound though during spin cycle. Interestingly, sometimes it does spin. After going through websites, I changed the lid switch, but did not work. Now I am thinking of issues of broken motor coupling or clutching. Am I going in the right direction? Any other suggestion to pinpoint where is the problem? Thank you.
Ramadas,
It may be that the tub is off balance or a part inside the washer is loose. The only option is to open the panel up and look inside for any obvious signs of a problem.
Try running the washer on the shortest cycle empty and see if the noise is still present.
-RR
I have a Samsung 13Kg Top Loader Nano Silver Washing Machine. Could be a 2003 – 2005 Model.
It Washes and works well except that recently, it started picking up like a ratchet clicking noise during the wash cycle only.
The Spin/rinse all works well and the drain also works well.
Tried the MASTER RESET and it FIXED my problem in one minute!!
Wish I had not purchased and installed the control timer before doing that :)
Thank you very much for the tip!
Great public service for DIYrs…
Harriett,
If the timer is stopping the washer from going from spin to drain, then you may have a bad timer. It may also be that the drain pump is so clogged and the timer tries to let it drain but shuts off. You can try checking to be sure the drain pump is not clogged therefore not letting the washer drain.
Does the washer spin or just agitate? Does the washer complete all cycles but at the end it won’t drain? You could also have a lid switch issue depending on what point your washer stops.
What Whirlpool washing machine model number do you have?
-RR
Lee,
You have 2 problems, vibration/shaking and timer washer cycles out of sync.
For the vibrating shaking issue, check to be sure that the springs or straps are in place that hold the tub centered.
For the timing sequence issue, either some wiring is backwards or possibly the timer itself is not working properly.
Have you opened the washing machine and just done a simple visual check yet?
-RR
The washer says Kenmore 800. We bought it about 4 years ago because it only uses the amount of water required by the weight of the clothes. Two problems: wobbles and roars even without a load. With a load the whole house shakes. All other functions are fine, except that the sequence appears to be shifted, i.e., what I expect at the beginning of a cycle occurs at the end. I usually hear the water valves opening and the tub filling–instead we start right off with agitation and the sound of filling in the background. At the end of the spin cycle instead of stopping, the tub begins to fill, continues until the tub is 1/3 full, then stops. It’s as if the timer was late for Act I and then at the end of Act III couldn’t stand to go home and thus started Act I again.
I have a Whirlpool top loader. It will not spin the water out after the wash cycle. It’s like the timer stops, because there’s a cut off sound from the timer after the wash . Help .
Saif,
Depending on make and model of your washer, there may be a speed sensor malfunction or you are overfilling with clothing. What company makes your washer and what is the model number?
-RR
I have a front load washer and it works fine, the only problem is it has some difficult time to start the final spin cycle or it starts spinning but once it builds up the speed it stops and adds up time and fill water as a rinse cycle.
Jenny: Hope you can read some of my earlier comments on my experience with my Kenmore front loading washer [made by Frigidaire for Sears–Canada]. My unit is 10 years old. A couple of years ago, my inside Stainless Steel Tub with spyder arm shaft assembly was replaced, along with the Rear Outer Drum assembly [I say “assembly” because the inner and outer bearings are pre-installed in the Rear Outer Drum]. Prior to this ‘repair’ the Washer inside Stainless Steel drum was ‘banging’ loudly. The reason for this is that the design of the spyder assembly which is attached to the Stainless Steel drum “fails”, due to the drum being of Stainless Steel. The Spyder arm assembly supporting the shaft is Aluminum……”Corrosion” issues! Since then, I have had “spin issues”. Tried “Reset”, tried replacement of Door Lock assembly…….it turned out to be the Motor Control Board or Spin Control Board. This, on my model, is a ‘computer board’ located at the left rear bottom of my washer. This was the Problem. I got one from eBay and put it in myself….it was easy as there is only one wire harness attachment and two screws holding it in the machine. From my research, the ‘design’ of front load washers like mine is ‘flawed’ due to the metal corrosion. And also, it’s a ‘racket’, because when your Stainless Steel inside drum gives out due to the spyder arm assembly ‘breaking’, it starts “banging loudly”—it tends to ‘damage’ the Rear Outer plastic drum—thus a replacement of that is also needed to complete the repair. You can get a pair of bearings for the rear Outer Drum on eBay—-and if you think your Stainless Steel Inner drum wobbles too much…..Before it starts “banging” and doing more damage…..it may be time to get some bearings to have on hand, And if you’re lucky, you can take out the two old ‘bearings’ and tap in the ‘new ones’. I say “lucky” because if your Spyder Arm Assembly is not ‘broken’, it could mean that only the ‘bearings’ need replacement. [The bearings—2 of them, come with a bearing seal]. This way, you won’t be put out over $200 plus just to buy a whole Rear Outer Tub with bearings already installed! My machine in Canada was warrantied by Sears—for 25 Years. Now, I know why! There are DIY videos galore on the internet for repairs!
Jenny,
It may be possible that you have a loose wiring harness therefore the washer works sometimes. Trace all the wires from the control panel and make sure all wires are connected and secure.
-RR
I have a front loader Beko WMB651441L. It sometimes works normally and sometimes the drum is not spinning the full circle at the start and is making a lot of noise. I have to try and reset and wait at least 3 times to get it going again. A recommended by a friend technician came but it was working normally do he thinks is the control panel or computer. Does someone know what’s wrong with it. It is second hand and no receipt is under 2 years old.
Chris,
Front load washers do not have the typical lid switch, your washer has a door latch switch. The door latch switch could be your issue. You can test any electrical part with a multi-meter to be sure it is working properly. You may also have other issues. You may want to trace all the wiring and be sure no wire harnesses have come loose or detached. What is your model number?
-RR
I have Whirlpool front loading washing machine that will fill with water then it will do nothing with the water sitting in the drum. Do I have a lid switch problem ? And how do you test that ?
Anna,
Check the lid switch and the drain pump. If the washer cannot drain it will not spin. Drain pump may be clogged. Also if your washer has a drain filter, clean it out and replace and see if that fixes the issue.
-RR
Shelley,
The LR code means “locked rotor”. This tells you the control is not seeing the motor turning. When the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning. The LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but cannot. The error code can be caused by to large of a clothing load. Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
-RR
I have a Maytag Neptune front load washer that is about 12 years old. It fills with water and does nothing else….the time runs through the cycle with the door locked and when the cycle ends we have to bail the water out. It did show a LR error code last night once. Any ideas??
I have a Fisher And Paykel washer fresh 5.0 smart drive 9 that won’t spin. This is the first time it’s happened. And ideas of what’s wrong with it? It also still has water in it that wont drain for some reason.
Zeillie,
Have you checked lid switch? Is washer out of balance when in a cycle? Tub seems to be off center? If not draining the pump could be clogged therefore making the washer have trouble draining properly. DO you have a multimeter?
-RR
Our washer (a Kenmore 80 series top-loader) recently stopped spinning yesterday. I think the main cause might be overloading the washer too much. The rinse part works perfectly, except it does not drain the water probably due to the spinner/drum not working. I’ve also noticed the drum part surrounding the interior seems a bit off, one side locked in and the other side looks a bit loopy? (sorry for the inadequate wording and phrases). I’ll be thankful for any answers.
Dan,
The LG washer UE error does mean the machine is not balanced. We understand you leveled the floor but is the washer drum off center? The washer may also have a bad sensor or part of the control board that is telling the washer it is off balance when in fact it is not. You may also want to trace all wires to be sure they are securely connected and in place.
-RR
My lg front loader washer agitates in each mode works great thru the whole cycle and spins slow but the last 10 min during the rinse and spin cycle the timer stays at 10 and agitates back and forth for awhile still staying at 10 min until it shuts off blinking UE, I’ve tried unplugging for a couple min opening and closing the door a bunch of times that someone posted to try and sit thru almost each mode still the same result, the washer came with the house I bought this last January it just started acting up and I put a level on it and It was not level front to back by a lot so I leveled it, unplugged, and tried again still the same. Please help before I call service guy and he steals my hard earned money.
Looking under the machine, all the springs look to be in place and intact. Shifting the tub around and it springs back to a central position. The washer does work properly despite the clicking.
Lloyd,
Possibly it is out of balance. Have you checked under machine to be sure the springs that hold the drum center are in place? Does washer still work properly despite the clicking?
-RR
It is a top load washer.
Maytag
LSQ9549PW2
Zaid,
Please give us Model Number of your Samsung washing machine. Also, are you having to move the drain hose around each time you do a wash cycle? Please explain further.
-RR
I have a Samsung washer 4yrs old which will not spin. I manage to drain the water out by low the hose down then redo the washing sequence with low level, then on wash its agitates only on the right then after draining again i lower the hose down and taking it on spin its spin but not fast.
It is a top loader.
Whirlpool.
Model LSQ9549PW2
Lloyd,
Is it a front load or top load washer? The brand and model number will help us to assist you.
-RR
Hi, I have a washing machine that is producing a clicking noise as the spin cycle begins and starts to get up to speed. The clicking is in sync with the speed of the spin, so as the spin cycle accelerates, so does the clicking. The odd thing is that just before the spin cycle is at full speed, the clicking stops. Any ideas on what I can look for?
Scott,
Was the past wash load over filled? May have set it off balance. What is the model number?
-RR
Vick,
What is the model number of your Samsung front load washer?
-RR
Hi ,i have a frontloader samsung washing machine.It goes through wash and rinse cycles.when it goes to spin cycle the timer changes the timming of cycle and does not spin.i could hear drain pump operating and sounds like it wants to spin but doesnt spin.what could be the issues?
I have a Samsung top load washer, it was working fine, now for some reason the inner tub and whatever the other blue ring is are grinding on each other any ideas on what it could be, its level. But for some reason it started doing it. I’m clueless
Kayla,
Then you may have a balance or off center issue.
-RR
What if my washing machine will spin very small loads, but not regular size loads? So it does spin sometimes, but not always..
If you’re working with a Front Loader Washer, I have found that my Kenmore ‘made by Frigidaire’ problem turned out to be the Motor Control Board [please check my earlier long write-up]….. The problem was not in the reset, nor was it in the door Switch. The Motor Control Board [Spin Board] is located to the left rear of the machine. I got a replacement from eBay. Please/Please handle your ‘replacement part’ with care….it may come in a bubble pack. Remember, this is a ‘computer board’ and is ‘fragile’. I replaced my Board and everything is back to normal. I have a ten-plus year old machine. The devil in the details with certain front loaders is the Stainless Steel Drum and ‘corrosion’ problems with the spider bracket made out of Aluminum, and eventually this tends to wear out the Bearings!
Dennis.
Yes it sounds like the timer assembly is on the fritz. If your Kenmore washing machine is model number 11082874820, then here is the Kenmore washer timer you need to fix your washer problems. Could also be the lid switch performing in a strange way. Here is the lid switch that MAY be causing issues also.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 70 series washer model 110 it was in storage for quite a while before I got it. I was told it had not been used much. I traded some old coins for it as I am on disability and could not afford to buy a washer but needed one. It washes awesome drains great but does not spin. I take the knob and turn it all the way around to a mark I made on the dial and it then will spin and spray water as normal. Then on the rinse cycle it does the same thing. Sometimes it will work normal and spin for all cycles correctly sometimes it spins correctly on the extra rinse cycle correctly and sometimes not. I was told its junk I was told its the timer I was told so many different things I have no idea but I cannot afford a new washer but it does clean great just wish I did not have to stand there while doing laundry. Can anyone help???
Ethan,
Sounds like a control board issue. Be sure all wire harnesses are secure. Test machine completely empty. If still an issue replace control board.
-RR
My Whirlpool washing machine, model number WTW4850XQ0 is not completing its spin cycle. It will complete its wash cycle but when the load is done the clothes are still soaking wet. When I try to run a drain and spin cycle it will seem like it’s trying to start but then the lid lock will flash. Cancelling the cycle will cause the spin light to turn off but the lid lock light will continue to flash until I either unplug the washing machine or let it sit until it eventually turns off and unlocks on its own. Any suggestions on what I need to do to fix this?
Zar,
Bad Bearing?
-RR
I do not have a tester to be able to check the motor. However, I had removed the back panel and set the knob to spin and everything was functioning and moving freely. The belt and pulleys were moving normally but the wash tub did not move…
ZAR,
Have you tested the motor?
-RR
We have an older Kenmore Heavy Duty washer that stopped operating during the spin cycle (wont spin). I spent some time inspecting the washer and everything mechanical appears to be working properly. I checked the belt and all the the pulleys are fine.I took the agitator off and inspected the shaft,all looks fine, I by-passed the lid switch,still nothing, I would appreciate any help,If its a “fixable” job, would rather do that then shell out the money for a new one…
Larry,
It may be possible that the heavy load of rugs may have knocked some springs off the drum causing it to become off balance. The hum may be the motor trying to turn the drum but cannot if the springs are off. This may or may not be the case. However… You will need to open the service panel and see if the drum is centered or possibly something else may have broke inside the washer.
-RR
5 Yr old GE top load washer will not handle anything other than lite load. Wife washed two rugs and washer stopped completely. Has water in tub and will not do anything but hum. Unplugged, lifted lid 5-6 times, and tried a couple other fixes to reset with no luck. Model is GTWN4950L0WS. Any / all suggestions to try are appreciated.
Maryposita,
What is the error code on your Whirlpool top load?
-RR
Shoey,
Please tell us make and model number of washer.
-RR
first tried to do a wash but the water hose was not on to fill the machine.
I went to check on it and saw the error code this is how I found out the water was shut off.
Now my washer door is locked and I can not open it.
It is making a buzzing sound like it is trying to drain the water out. there is no water to drain. the door lock light is flashing.
My Whirlpool top load washer machine washes, but when is about to drain and spin, at the end of the cycle, it gives an error code. I try opening the door and it goes back to the last 12 minutes. It can go as far as the last 10 then it stops, gives the error code and I open the door and boom, ,back to the last 12 minute. The complete cycle is about 40 minutes, but it just won’t go past the last 12.
Ann Marie,
Most likely your washer has a bad lid switch. Ir it could be a clogged drain pump that needs to be unclogged and cleaned.
-RR
My whirlpool washer won’t spin or drain it washes and fills with water just won’t drain or spin
Gail,
Is the water fully drained out of the washer?
Have you tried unplugging machine for 30 seconds to reset?
You can hold down chime and delay til a code comes up. Then turn off washer and then back on. Hold down control knob 10 sec turn off again and restart as usual.
-RR
Thank you for the unplug/reset washer. I was so happy that it worked. Thank You Thank You
Hi trying to unlock the child lock on my Amana front load washing machine, book tells me to press soil level and signal buttons but I don’t know what the signal button is, I thought it was the chime button but I don’t think that is right. Can you help me please?
Kelly,
What error code? Make and Model?
-RR
hi we have a top loader that washes but wont spin it throws out an error. have tried the reset and the no problem with door. please help
If you can find my earlier comments re my Kenmore front loader, they may be quite useful. My problem with the ‘not spinning’ with a proper laundry load turned out to be the Motor Control Board [which is situated at the rear left bottom of the washer and is held in place by two Phillips screws & a circuit plug. This is a fragile item. And if you do decide to replace it with one from eBay, etc., please handle it with care as it is it’s own computer board [these things are fragile]. I initially did a Reset….no-go. Then I replaced the front door switch — still, no-go. It turned out to be the Motor Control Board [or Spin Control Model—another name for it]. There is a Devil in front loaders and that is the Stainless Steel Drum is attached to an Aluminum spider arm bracket which houses the shaft that juts out of the rear of the unit, thru the outer rear plastic drum and is attacked to the belt-driven wheel, in order to turn the drum. Corrosion issues occur with these two different metals coming in contact, and thus, the bearings eventually fail. Good luck, and there are some good DIY videos on YouTube. Respects, from Canada. ‘H’
Gloria,
Possible lid switch fault. Also maybe a clogged drain pump. Open and clean drain pump first. USE CAUTION!
-RR
Vimala,
Could be a timer or loose wiring. Open washer and visually inspect.
-RR
i have a samsung washer model number is wa456drhdsu/aa,washer won’t spin or wash unless i take the back off and wiggle the tub then it will wash or spin and after 20 minutes of doing that it will finish on it own and if i put a load in right after that one it will do fine
Hello,
I hope someone can help me with my problem. I have a Whirlpool Duet front loading washer that will not spin. First, I cleared and emptied the drain plug. That was nasty and plugged with some sort of plastic. Turned on and still no spin. Removed the back and seen that the drive belt had slipped off but not damaged. I tried to put it back on but the pulley has seized. It’s like something is stuck in it and not letting it move. I can move it about an inch or so but no further. Please tell me this is NOT the gear shaft that needs replacing. From everything I have seen on this it will be a pain to take apart and replace. Everything I have inspected so far looks good, no corrosion, leaks wear or tear. It just seems as though it is STUCK. Can you help?? I appreciate any advice. Thank you ;)
I own a LG 7 kg Turbo Fuzzy logic Top load washing machine. From the past one month it is not working properly. The programme is going higher and higher and the timer is going back and forth again and again without completing the washing. For example when I set it to 48 minutes, it works till 24 minutes and goes back to 35 minutes then once again when it reaches 18 minutes it goes back to 35 minutes. I don’t understand what is wrong.
RR!
Extremely impressed with how long you’ve been keeping up with the comments on this page. Kudos to your dedication. I also have an issue with my washer
Short backstory, I moved, kept the washer in storage for a little over 1.5 years. Just installed it in my new home, and the spin cycle doesn’t work. The agitator works, the pressure switch (which was behind the load size dial) is free of obstructions. The machine stops humming away when i open the lid, and during the spin cycle the machine is making noise and pumping out water.
I’m pretty sure I’ll need a new part, but I don’t want to get the wrong one for my machine.
It’s a Kenmore Model #110.26632500 if that helps. I looked on a replacement parts page and didn’t see a belt as possible replacement part. What do you think it is?
I have a Kenmore model 23832100 series 80 washer. It will go through the wash cycle, but the water will not drain and will not spin. I can hear the clicking sound as if is going to the next cycle, but nothing happens. It was in the middle of the washing when a circuit was over loaded and had to be reset. I have tried going thru all the cycle, but the same thing continues to happen the water remains and no spinning. Any ideas?
i have a beko washing machine that will not drain or spin or even end cycle just keeps going its full off water still
Hi,
I have a Candy Aquamatic T10 washing machine that refuses to enter the spin cycle. It washes and spins normally, but just sits there making a slow ticking noise during the spin cycle. It drains fine and doesn’t appear to be clogged. Any ideas on what might be causing this?
Hi,
My top loading Samsung washing machine stopped spinning and draining Water after i in rush had switched off the machine while it was washing. What should i do? Please help!
My whirlpool front loader washing machine when it wants to spin its blinking on the timer like there is a short circuit and the motor just kick but doesn’t move but its draining water nicely
Hello Folks, I have a Kenmore front loader purchased in 2006. It had stopped spinning and overflowed. I opened it up and saw that the belt was okay, motor had no signs of burning out and decided to try it again on rinse/spin. It started to fill up but the did not spin. The pump was working as it was pushing the water out.
I then decided to try to perform the Master Reset. Afterwards there was nothing. Won’t even fill up. Is it the switch in the door?
I did see that the suspension bar on one side was broken and will replace it but I’m sure that’s not the cause.
I appreciate your input.
Dave,
You are correct on that assumption. If the washer is periodically NOT going through all wash cycles, then the timer is most likely the issue. However, their may be a loose wire harness on the timer or control board or elsewhere or possibly the lid switch is on the fritz. Be sure to check the wiring to make sure it is secure. If all wiring is secure, then we would recommend to TEST THE WASHING MACHINE TIMER with a meter. If that proves to be working correctly, then the board will need replaced. It does sound like it may be a faulty timer, but check it to be completely sure before you spend the $50 to $150 dollars first.
-RR
Hello,
We used the washer today. A couple loads the we had the same problem. Then on a couple small loads it worked properly. Then would not spin / rinse on a load. The last two loads worked normal. Does this sound like more of a timer problem then a board problem? I would think if the board were bad that it would be bad all the time. Thoughts?
Dave,
If the washer is starting the wash cycle when left long enough SOMETIMES, it sounds like either the timer has bad spots, or the control board attached to bottom of timer may be experiencing periodic issues. The timer sounds like it is working mechanically since it advances, but the electrical part of it may be the problem. You could remove the timer, inspect it, and be sure the wiring is secure. You should also be able to test it with a meter. Once you do this, you will be able to know which is the problem. If the wiring on timer is secure and not burned, it tests good with a meter, then you will know it is the control board under the timer.
A faulty timer will work on some cycles and not others. A timer contact that controls that particular cycle may be stuck in the open position. Check the timer for continuity on the contacts.
-RR
Yes the circuit board is on the bottom of the timer. No change to the timer that I can tell. After the wash cycle the machine stops. The timer is still ticking and moving, but the machine usually does not do anything. Sometimes if you leave is long enough, it will start the wash cycle again, but never the rinse cycle. The only way we can get it to drain he water is to move the timer to the extra rinse. During the extra rinse, all it does is drain the water. There is no rinse water added.
Tizoc,
If your front load washer is going into the spin dry cycle but moving slow, it may be sensing that the load is to full. This could also indicate a motor speed issue or central control unit issue. Have you ran the washer on a full wash cycle empty? Doing this will tell you if the washer is seeing a overload issue or not. If running empty results in the same slow spin, then further troubleshooting will be needed. As we said, it may be a motor speed issue or central control unit problem. Also, could you let us know if your washer model number is WFW94HEAC0 or WFW94HEAC2 so we can further help to troubleshoot?
-RR
Mary,
Do you have a front load or top load washer? If top loader, it may be the lid switch. Let us know and we can assist further.
-RR
Vicki,
You may have a clogged drain filter if you have a front load washer. Pull out filter and clean. If you have a top loader, you may have a clogged pump, kinked drain hose or other. Can you tell us which washer you are having draining issues with? Make and model number please?
-RR
Dave,
For the issue you have described, it is most likely the timer but more troubleshooting should be done. The board you are talking about is the temp control board that is below the timer, correct? Does the timer feel as if the motor mechanism is easier to turn, harder to turn, or no change at all? What exactly happens after the wash cycle completes, you said it just stops, is there any clicking or unusual noises coming from the washer at this time? If you let the washer sit at this point, you said sometimes it will go into the rinse cycle. Do you have to ALWAYS turn the timer to get it into the rinse cycle or if left long enough does it go into the cycle itself?
-RR
We have a Maytag washer, model# MAV6000AWW, serial # 10496372WY. It fills and goes through the fill and wash cycle fine, but then stops. If you leave it long enough, sometimes it will start to agitate again when it has moved to the rinse cycle. Occasionally if you turned the dial all the way around to rinse it would work for a load. Next load it would do the same thing. That final stopped working also, Then we started moving the dial to the extra rinse position and that worked. After washing a couple loads this way, the washer would no longer do anything. Found that the GFI was popped. I ordered a new timer. Did some more reading and found that it might be the mother board. Pulled the timer and mother board, nothing looks burnt. Don’t want to open the timer package if the board is the problem. Ideas? Thanks!
My washer will not drain all the water out…. It pauses at the Last cycle….why? How to fix??
My kenmore washer is coming on like it’s going to wash but it isn’t turning. I don’t know why?
I have a whirlpool model number WFW94HEAC front load. Everything works fine until it’s time to spin dry. It looks as if it’s going to spin and actually does so but at a very slow pace. The time stays the same and it keeps repeating this cycle. Clothes are still very damp. Please help! Thanks!
Richard,
If you have checked every internal mechanical part that allows the washer to spin and all is good (including lid switch), then yes the timer MAY be the issue. The timer is not cheap. Our appliance parts database shows $126.22 US dollars.
-RR
I have tested the lid switch it works properly. I ran a cycle it fills fine it agitates but when it comes to the spin cycle it makes a clicking noise from the timer switch and will not drain. Thank you for all your help in the matter
I have not tested the lid switch but it appears to be working when I open the lid it stops allowing water to enter the drum. The coupler part number is 3364003 and the timer is part number 3953321. I am currently running the machine to see if it is the lid issue
Richard,
It may be the timer but is difficult to say if you have just replaced the motor coupler. Have you tested the lid switch? Does the washer agitate and when it comes to spin does nothing? Using the schematics in this Sears Whirlpool parts list, can you tell us the part number you replaced for the coupler and the part number of the timer you assume may be bad? Is this the timer you will be replacing?
-RR
Hello ,
I have a whirlpool model number LSQ8243HQ0. My machine makes a weird humming noise from the control panel I removed the panel and it was coming from the timer and will not spin. I checked the coupler is was broken I replaced and still it will not spin. I have cleaned out the water pump still will not spin. I contacted my local appliance store and they attempted to sell me a new washing machine. I found a timer switch for a decent price how can you tell for sure that it is the timer that is broken thanks !
Greg,
If the motor is running but the drum is not spinning, your washer may have a Frozen Pump Pulley or a Broken Pump Belt. If you want to check the pulley, remove the pump and try to rotate the pulley by hand. If it doesn’t turn freely then replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks worn out you can replace it. Make sure you check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
-RR
My Samsung SW50ASP top-loader fills, drains and spins just fine, but when it’s trying to wash or rinse it makes a grating noise and the drum and impeller don’t seem to move, despite the motor turning. The control panel shows no errors. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
Adria,
The problem you are describing is most likely the timer motor itself. It may have a short therefore causing the spin cycle to be skipped over. You can use a multimeter to test it to be sure. If you do find it to be bad, make sure to replace the complete timer and motor assembly.
-RR
I have a kenmore 700 series, top loading washer, runs fine until it gets to the spin cycle, it just skips over it, and when i open the lid its full of water, however when i turn the dial to spin again, it spins and works fine, its getting annoying to have to turn the dial back to get it to spin the clothes. any fixes?
To: DIY Project Help Tips
I can’t begin to tell you how much your kind words of appreciation for my humble comments means to me. “RR” — my comments are from ‘real experience’ and I appreciate support from DIY videos and this site. I have my Kenmore front load washer [13 years old now], after a steel inner tub replacement only 2 years ago, which also required the rear outer plastic tub with installed bearings to be replaced. And, as you no doubt know, when the ‘banging starts’, it’s replacement time and those rear bearings & seal and shot! In anticipation of the next failure, I got a complete Kenmore set of rear outer plastic tub bearings – 2 bearings [outer & inner] plus the seal — purchased from eBay. I also purchased the outer tub Gasket. I have memorized the procedure to take my machine apart from watching the various DIY Repair Videos on line. It’s a biggy when it comes to DIY, but you indeed will be making your own $100 an hour by going thru the procedures. My ‘Kenmore’, which is a Frigidaire model, which also has Westinghouse parts……I had to be an Inspector Colombo to track these numbers down, but I now know them ‘by site’, and the fear is gone! I am lucky, in Canada, because there is a 25-year Warranty on the inner Stainless Steel Tub …. Now, I know Why…..it’s the corrosion issues with the spider Aluminum arms on the rear of the Stainless Steel Tub……they will surely, eventually fail! I would stress to other front-loader owners to reduce their HE soap to only 1 Tablespoon and make sure they rinse & drain their washings. The reason is, I have found, the front loaders do not use anywhere near the amount of Water in the wash, and if you continue to use a lot of soap…….Well, corrosion problems! I used to change Rollerskate bearings and Motorcycle bearings, so I know not to damage the races when I install new ones. Another ‘scheme’ is that with my particular washer, when they replace the Stainless Steel Inner Tub ‘for free’……you have to also buy the outer Rear Tub with the pre-installed bearings….and that will run you over $200 Cdn, or even more today. So, if you run into this problem, and are lucky enough to find a set of bearings on-line for around $45.00 and have the spare time……You will indeed make $100 per hour salary for you, plus saving $150.00 on not having to buy a complete Rear Outer Tub housing with bearings! Thx again, for appreciate my humble efforts! Regards, from Canada, ‘H’
John,
Thank you very much for your helpful and useful comments. We appreciate them and so does all the thousands of people having problems with their washing machine. Please keep giving your helpful advice!! You are helping many people! Thanks again!
-RR
Hi, Matt. I have a 13-year old ‘Kenmore’ [made by Frigidaire] front loading washer. To make a long story short — please check to see what your Warranty covers, ie: Inner Stainless Steel Drum, etc. What I have discovered with my front-loader is that a common problem is the Stainless Steel Inner Drum — at the rear of this drum there is a spider assembly made out of Aluminum which supports the shaft that protrudes through the rear outer plastic Rear Outer Drum to run the belt-driven wheel [in my model]. There is Heavy noise, first. Then when it gets worse…..banging, which will destroy the outer Plastic Rear Tub and its Bearings. The problem with the Stainless Steel and Aluminum marriage on the Inner Drum is that ‘corrosion’ issues happen with these two different metals, and the Bearings can also fail. When the corrosion becomes serious enough, the spider arm [Aluminum] that supports the Shaft that enables the drum to spin —- one of these arms, from heavy corrosion, Breaks! This is the Devil in the Details! Please check this out for yourself. Good luck and best wishes, from Canada, ‘H’
LL LAVAREZ,
You may have belt, wiring, or a motor issue. It is difficult to say without more information. Does the washer work properly? Is it only when in dryer mode the machine is not working? Do you hear any noise at all when trying to run the dryer? Please give us more details.
-RR
Matt,
If it has been noisy for some time and now your Beko washer is now not spinning, you may have a motor, coupler, direct drive, or belt problem depending on your washer model. We recommend to unplug, open service panel and with a flashlight, see if there are obvious signs of wear or breakage. The noise indicated a problem and should have been investigated when it first started.
-RR
I have a Beko front loading washing machine and for a few weeks now it’s been very noisy whilst spinning. That noisy that it drowns out the TV. This morning it’s stopped spinning. I thought it might be the bearings but I wondered if there’s an easier and cheaper solution to my problem?
Hi, My washing machine is Sharp capable of doing washing and drying. The problem is the spin dryer does not rotate when timer is set. What could be wrong with the spin dryer? Model # ES5510TSW
When I had a build-up of water in my front door gasket, it was due to the rubber gasket design. An improved design gasket which allowed the water to properly drain into the tub was installed, and that solved the problem on my ‘Kenmore’ [Frigidaire 970-C48112-10] front load washer.
Mark,
Are you using liquid HE washing machine detergent? If so how much do you use? What brand? You are putting it in the detergent compartment and not directly in the tub right?
Are you saying there is a buildup of suds on the bottom of the rubber door gasket? Your washer drains out the water, correct?
You are simply having an issue with too many suds on the door seal gasket after the cycle ends yes?
-RR
I made and error in my previous post. I have a front loading HE Kenmore 48102701 washing machine. It will not drain at the bottom of the door seal/gasket. There is a large build up of soap suds after the cycle completes. I have reduced the amount of detergent that I use, but with the same result only fewer suds. Do you have any advice or suggestions?
I have a Frigidaire front loading HE washer. There is an excessive amount of water and soap suds in the door seal/gasket at the bottom. I have cut down on the soap and have the same result only with less suds. Do you have any advice?
Tony,
Corrective action is Evaluate wire harness for loose or unhooked connections then go to Quick Test Mode to test motor. Your issue could be the hall sensor also. Have you checked that as well?
-RR
I have a Samsung WA400. Couple of years and multiple headaches later I am still struggling with this washer. I had the Samsung repairman move my pump motor in reference to a tech bulletin. I have already gone through one motor prior to that. After the technician left, the washer worked well for about two weeks. Now I get 3E errors or the washer bangs around hard on spin cycle and resets itself, adding 20ish minutes.
Lisa,
If your Kenmore 90 washer will not spin, but makes a loud noise, it is possibly the belt is damaged or the motor is not working properly. Does the washer agitate at first? Does the drum turn at all? What do you do when the washer starts making the loud noise? Assuming the washer fills with water, does the washer drain if you put it into drain cycle? Can you describe the noise? Is it a clicking noise? One time noise? Constant noise?
-RR
Hi I have a Kenmore 90 series top loader and when it gets to the spin cycle it doesnt move and makes the loudest noise . Can you tell me what it is?
Paul,
Have you checked to see if the correct power voltage is being supplied to the motor? Could also be a wiring issue or control panel issue. You should troubleshoot further by checking all wiring and making sure the washer is getting correct power voltage. If all tests good, then motor may need replaced, test as needed.
-RR
At micro farad setting of my tester, I did connect the +(red) to the red wire of the capacitor while black(common) to the blue wire of the capacitor. All other functions are okay. My unit is now about 3 years.
Paul,
How did you test the capacitor? The capacitor needs to be tested by setting your multimeter on Ohms.
It could be another part on your washer that may be going bad. Can you tell us if the washer goes through all cycles but will just not spin? Does it drain? How old is the washer?
-RR
The spin motor of my PANASONIC NA-W507B washing machine has the following specifications:
YYG-4DE Spin Motor
230V 60Hz .57A 4P
3.8 mocofarad/450V
It comes to stop gradually and won’t start at times. I checked the capacitor through a tester and it reads 3.746. What made my spinner stop from running?
GLT,
What is make and model of your washer? If it runs through the wash cycle but the only issue is the drain cycle, you more than likely have blockage in the drain pump or drain hose. Check for foreign objects clogging the drain pump and or hose.
-RR
My washing machine stops half way through. Initially drain of water stopped so there was water left and cloths soaked in water, can you please advise if this can be repaired?
Amanda,
If the washer is tripping the breaker, you should call a professional as this could be a fire hazard.
-RR
Hi I’ve got a white knight washer that doesn’t want to finish it’s spin cycle then trips the electricity??
Thank you very much, you have been very helpful. Thinking I need to spend some time taking it apart to confirm the issue.
Amber,
So it agitates, and drains but the drum does not turn at all? Correct?
If so you may have clutch, belt, or lid switch issues.
-RR
The washer still completes the spin cycle and drains the water. The drum just does not spin. The is not a bad smell or noise that I have noticed
Amber,
You may have a bad spot on the timer itself. Sometimes if this is the case, the timer will seem to work properly but when entering some cycles of wash it will malfunction and not go into the next cycle. You may want to open the unit up and check the timer visually to be sure there is nothing burnt or damaged. Also, do you hear any strange noises or is there any odd smells coming from your washer when it is running? Here is the Users Manual for your washer if that helps.
-RR
whirlpool
WTW5310SQO
SER
CW1530344
type 111
Amber,
What is the model number of your Top Load Whirlpool washer?
-RR
I have a top load whirlpool washer. Everything works fine except the spin cycle at the end. Water still drains fine. Agitate works okay. At first I thought the problem may be the lid switch. When I open the lid, the agitate cycle stops fine and continues on when I close the lid. Does this mean it is something other than the lid switch? If so what? Thanks!
Here’s the latest on my front-load Kenmore ‘Frigidaire’ Washer DIY repair……Love all of the DIY repair videos, and they have given me the ‘confidence’ to know the ‘enemy’…..when that happens, ‘fear’ subsides and ‘dogged determination’ sets in. Latest up-date; After the master resets, the door switch replacement, I was able to get a ‘new’ Motor Control Board [aka: Spin Control Board]. THIS was the problem…..it now spins perflectly, with one exception. The new ‘problem’ can be 1 or 2 things: either worn-out bearings in the rear tub assembly [inner & outer bearings & inner bearing seal’….OR…..the Spindle arms are cracked…..OR….the shaft ^brass baseç just needs to be cleaned and lightly greased. I have now found the Devil in the details. Here it is, and I know you know what Ièm talking about—–There is a èplanned obsolenceè, or maybe not…..however, in the inner Stainless Steel tub assembly; at the rear of that assembly is a spyder-arm assembly housing the shaft that runs through the outer rear plastic Tub assembly to connect with the wheel & belt hook-up to the motor. The spyder-arm assembly is Aluminum, and is connected to the Stainless Steel Inner Drum—-two different metals—-Suicide èTime-Bomb for corrosion failures. In my country of Canada, Kenmore warranties the Stainless Steel Inner Drum for 25 years…….Now, I know WHY! The Trick is when the drum fails, with cracks in the Spyder Arms and the drum wanders all over the place—banging against the outer Rear Plastic Drum, with bearings being prematurely worn, as a direct result of the Aluminum arms cracking from corrosion—-the èProfessional Reapriè asks the Customer to pay for a brand New Rear Outer Drum that comes complete with the Outer & Inner Bearings and Inner Bearing Seal already assembled in the New Rear Outer Drum. The Inner Stainless Steel Drum, being warranteed for 25 years is èfreeè. However, You, as a Customer will have to fork out over $200 for the Outer Tub ^Drumç; not to mention the Professional fees for delivery and installation. Donèt believe you cannot replace the failed bearings yourself. I just received a new set of bearings to fit the Outer Tub. I do have vibration issues with the Inner Tub spinning. I exhausted the weight distribution issues, the feet blancing issues, and I know the Culprit, as I have previously mentioned. With the DIY videos, I can take my machine apart in my mind, and know to remove the sensitive Motor Control Board out of the washer, so as not to destroy the delicate computer board. Before I delve into my next DIY project—to remove the èoldè bearings if they are indeed the problem. I will order a new Tub Seal, so that it is on hand. I will not give up, and I hope this helps others with Front Loaders!
Heidi,
You may have a clogged or faulty drain pump. Also, you could have an issue with the timer not working properly at the right time. Check drain pump for issues.
-RR
Hi. I have Amana top loader. Never gave me a problem until last week. Washer ended, I lifted the lid still water in washer. Its not draining on the last spin. I have turned the knob back around to spin again so it will drain the water. Any idea whats wrong??
Lou,
Your other question was about the lid switch so we see you have most likely found the issue. Let us know if it ends up being a bad lid switch.
-RR
Lou,
What color are the wires? Also, are the wires connected into a wiring harness?
-RR
How do I test the lid switch, my model has 4 wires
We have a top load HE sears washer that won’t spin. It stops at the spin cycle and the lid light light blinks. We had to unplug and replug the washer in to release the lid lock. Any ideas on the cause? Please email me back ASAP you can as the dirty laundry is piling up. Thanks so much
THIS IS ALL I needed in the middle of the night as I sit here doing my TAXES (yes, I procrastinate), with church in the morning and ALL my clothes (that fit) sitting in a tub of water! So I search the web, watch too many (and too long) YouTube videos on how to take my washer all apart, check this thing, poke that thing, get one of these and do this… I’m in the freakin’ Twilight Zone. But just when all was lost, here is one last site – and it says to unplug the machine, plug it back in, and open/shut the door 6 times. What?! This must be a joke. But it’s too easy NOT to try. One, two, three, four, five, six… Spin cycle continues, water draining… I’m still in shock. I guess there really are white knights left in the world – thank you! So I guess now I don’t have to wear that Santa suit to church in the morning…
Thanks. It’s been since Monday so I think I’ll try to open it up and check out the belt and coupling. Nothing looks wrong at a glance but hopefully we can figure out the problem instead of forking out money for a new washer. Thanks for the help! :)
Nitasha,
If you overloaded the washer, then the motor may have overheated. That may be where the humming sound was coming from. Lid switch does not seem like the issue because if so the power would not go to the motor if lid switch was bad. If motor was humming, then you know power was getting to it. So give the washer time to cool down. If after giving it time to cool down the problem persists, you may need to open up washer and see if either belt or coupler is shot.
-RR
I have an Amana top load washer that’s almost 7 years old. I’ve never had problems with it. I was washing a load of my daughter’s peed bedding and my toddlers’ clothes and it went off balance. I went down to rearrange the load and by the time I got to the washer it was moving on to the spin cycle…except it never did spin. It hummed for a minute then stopped. Then hummed again then stopped. It did this repeatedly until I unplugged it.
We tried to do a small load from the start and it filled with water but wouldn’t do anything further. I sent my husband to get a lid switch even though that doesn’t seem to be the problem and the appliance store he was going to buy it at told him that it didn’t seem like we should need to replace that. I tried the motor reset and it didn’t work. What else should I try?
Thanks so much for the website! Just fixed the washing machine by doing a computer reset which we had no idea about! Cheers again.
Claudia,
Is it an actual ticking sound or possibly a water dripping sound? If ticking, could it be the washer timer is still mechanically moving forward even while power is off?
-RR
What could it be if the noise is coming behind the washing machine – the machine is “not” on. We checked for water leaks, but there are none. We shut off the hot and cold water, but there is still a slight ticking noise. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
KC,
Yes give it a try if that is an option. If that works than great problem solved. If not then get a new spring and maybe a new belt if the one that is in use is frayed in the slightest.
-RR
Jaclyn,
What type of washer do you have and what is model number? ND error code means no drain but you say you have a new drain pump? Is the washer new and if not how many years old?
Have you checked drain hose to be sure it is not clogged or kinked? If washer is giving you multiple different error codes for apparently no real reason, it may mean your control board is bad and needs replaced.
-RR
My front load washer keeps saying Sr. and sometimes nd or SUDs and all the time when the washer is off it rings and says Sr and it’s having trouble draining and drain pump is new !!
Eureka! My ‘new’ part arrived Today. It’s the Motor Control Board [Speed Control Assembly or Spin Control Board or Speed Control Board] for my Kenmore Front Load Washer [2003 model], made by Frigidaire. I tracked down the actual maker of my Sears Kenmore and used the Frigidaire Model #970-C48112-10, to locate parts on the internet. From your previous instructions, after I removed the ‘old’ board and installed the ‘new’ one and plugged the Washer back into the wall socket, I ‘Reset’ the Washer by opening and closing the door 6 times in 12 seconds. And note also that previous ‘resets’ did not correct the non-spin on the final maximum spin. As I previously commented, I had replaced the Door Lock Assembly in the hopes it would solve the ‘maximum final spin’ issue, but it did not. The problem was the Motor Control Board. All I needed was a Philips Screw Driver to undo the 16 screws on the back panel and the two screws holding down the ‘old’ Motor Control Board. Feeling pretty good about saving around $100, by not having to call in a Professional! Just had to share my joy with you fine folks on this site!
Instead of replacing the spring… Would moving the current idler arm spring from the farthest hole from the front of the machine where it currently is on the metal base, to one of the two nearer holes make the spring push harder on the belt?
KC,
Make sure you replace the idler spring with same exact OEM. If your transmission is in question, do you hear any type of grinding or chaffing noise while the washer does run normally?
-RR
RR- In wash mode A-Okay. I went and pushed in the belt and it went all the way to the metal housing that covers the spring of the Idler Pulley Arm assembly, and without that much effort. That seemed too slack to me. I then took a pair of channel locks and grabbed a hold of the Idler Pulley Arm via the bolt that sticks out above it’s plastic wheel. That allowed me to pull it towards the front of the machine, increasing belt tension. I waited for the wash drain, then the motor kicks in for start of spin. WITHOUT pulling the Idler Pulley arm the belt did NOT start the spin and began to heat on the motor wheel. Pulling the Idler Pulley Arm and increasing tension the belt did “catch” and the spin started.
All that leads me to it is a weak Idler Pulley spring that will need to be replaced. Increase belt tension to allow it to catch. That spring which appears to have some rust probably got loose during the other replace/repair and I’ll see if this fixes it. The lower transmission bearing could have also gotten stickier with water and rust from the previous leak and may be just too much for the belt to overcome in spin direction, if that’s the case then it’s done as a trans is not worth the cost.
I’m not a top loader washer repair expert, by any means. I’m in the process of diy repair on my Frigidaire front loader……waiting for arrival of spin control board. But thru my diy travels and viewing videos…..one was for diy repair on a top loader……if I may put this one out there for you…..maybe it could be the ‘clutch’, and from what I viewed, diy clutch repair did not seem super complicated. And any repair done diy is cheaper than always having to call a professional. Good luck! ‘H’
KC,
Have you removed the service panel and SAFELY looked inside with a flashlight to observe exactly what is happening when the washer is in wash mode?
-RR
Exact OEM in Blue Electrolux/Frigidaire plastic bag, matching #. The play is not that much, like a car’s belt. The Idler pulley is very firm to push in and snaps back in place when I replaced the belt.
KC,
How much play is in the belt with tension idler? Is the belt you have replaced the exact one recommended for your Frigidaire washer? Is it OEM?
-RR
2004 Frigidaire 5700 Top loader. Leaking, put in new tub seal and new trunion (old corroded). No leaks, got 20 washes then belt burned. Replaced old worn belt. Everything works fine, agitates perfect.. EXCEPT belt wont catch on start of spin cycles. Drain pump checked, ok. Both trans and motor wheels clean, lubed, and spin fine. Tension idler pulley SEEMS fine but there is none of that slippage during start up of spin cycle I’ve read about. **Spin cycle will start if spin tub or trans housing is given slight small push/turn, then belt catches and PERFECT spin cycle** No squealing noise on spin. I would think if not idler then spin bearing or lower trans bearing sticking but both spin easy by hand and no noise. IM STUMPED!
RR,
I don’t think I have been overloading them, I haven’t ever had these issues before and I’ve been doing laundry for quite some time. I had one of the washers fixed, only to have it happen again. But, this may be an issue of my teenager using the washer inappropriately. I will call the repairman and let you know how it goes!
Thanks,
Barb
Thank you for this website. Just fixed my washer. It needed to be reset.
Tim,
The next part you should test is the lid switch. A defective lid switch will cause your washer to not spin. Washing machine lid switches be found on Amazon for a low price and usually you can get next day or same day delivery.
-RR
Barb,
Electricity to the washer will not cause a problem of this sort. This is a mechanical issue where you are having parts wear out causing the washers to not spin. This probably means the washers are wearing out the motor coupler prematurely. The cause for this could be a defect in material of the part in question but if it has happened to 3 top loaders in 3 years then something else is going on here. Are you overloading the washers? Huge blankets, multiple towels at once? Have you ever taken any of the washers apart to look and see what the problem may be? What have you done with the 2 previous washers that did not spin?
-RR
I have had three different top loading washers since I moved into my new home three years ago. Each one has died the same death. The washers start out ok but then start to struggle to spin properly, especially if I wash more than one load a day. Eventually the washers will not spin at all. All three have done this and all three start to sound like a plane taking off when they begin to spin and then stop suddenly during the spin cycle. These are three different makes and models of washers. Any thoughts on this? I asked two of my handy friends about whether they thought the out dated electric in the home may have something to do with this, one said it was likely, one said absolutely not.
Hi,
I have a ge top load washer will fill , drain but will not spin. I have replaced the water level switch and still no spin any help ?
model# WSHE5240D1WW
Fanessa,
The 2 things that may be wrong would be… The lid switch is bad OR the drain pump/hose is clogged. Most likely it is the lid switch. The lid switch is a safety device that will not let the machine spin if it is pressed in. It is basically a simple switch that the lid presses to let the machine run safely. The lid switch bracket may also be bent or the push rod on the lid that pushes the switch could be bent or not centered. If the drain pump is clogged, the washer will not drain therefore the machine will not go into spin mode. You will need to check both of these parts. The lid switch is most likely so check that first and let us know what you find.
-RR
I have an 11yr. Old whirlpool top load washer.. fills with water, agitates, but when gets to spin cycle.. nothing
Happens ..timer not run ..not spin on any other cycles (perm.press, delicates).. water not drain either, just stops??? Any ideas???? I’m not able to DIY so would have to call repair man… which I’m sure would be costly..
Richard,
The drain pump and or hose may be clogged. Inspect both and remove foreign objects if needed.
-RR
My Sharp ES S107X fully automatic washing machine washes ok, except it does not drain and returns E3.
Please help.
Hi Kim. You may see my previous comments on this site. My Frigidaire front load washer [Kenmore] is 12 years old, and won’t go into a final maximum spin, either. I have tried the following procedures to date — Master reset, where you unplug the machine, leave it for a minute; plug the machine back in. Then open & close the door 6 times in 12 seconds. This didn’t work for me. The next thing I did was obtain a door switch assembly and installed it. Still no change. I am now waiting for my Spin Control Board to arrive and I will install it. If this works, I will post on this site for everyone’s information. I got so tired of paying a pro to attend the house and pay $$$ over the years that I download DIY videos from the internet which have given me the confidence to do it myself…..the control board tells the motor when to spin and is an easy removal/install procedure.
Hello-
I bought a LG WM3570 front load washing machine two weeks ago. I’ve been using it on medium spin setting and had no problem. Today I set it on HIGH spin and problem occurred. It kept spinning and spinning but it doesn’t seem to speed up to finish. It was stuck on the remaining time 9 min. I had to stop the machine. There was no error code. My husband installed it and our laundry room is carpeted. Any ideas?
Thank you so much.
Danny,
If your top load washer is agitating but NOT spinning or draining, the most likely part that has failed is the lid switch. Test it with a meter to see if it is working properly. Another issue could be your drain pump or hose is clogged therefore not letting the washer spin since it cannot drain. So check the lid switch and drain pump/hose for problems. NOTE: It may be possible that the lid switch is ok, it may have just bent on the bracket and it is not aligned correctly to make contact with the washer lid.
-RR
i have a top loader GE top loader gtwn3000mws and it will not spin. The aggitator will work but when it comes to the drain and spin cycle it will not spin. I had read up and some of my findings are that it could be the lid sensor. some machines will fill and aggitate but wont spin if that sensor is bad… please help thanks
Danny
Lyndsey,
Is it draining properly every wash cycle? What is the error code showing?
Your drain pump may be clogged internally. It may also be the drain hose is slightly bend or clogged. Have you examined the drain hose? The filter is one thing and you have already cleaned that out but the pump probably has a few things jamming it once in awhile therefore your washer works sometimes and other times it does not. Wow, that was a long sentence… Anyway, to get to the pump, we would advise to watch a YouTube video or 2 to see how it is done. If a front load washer does not spin, it usually means the drain pump is at fault.
-RR
Hi there, I have a Whirlpool front loader AW0D 5556, and It keeps flashing up clean pump. I’ve cleaned the filter out and pump seems clear. It’s now started to stop mid cycles, but I can get it to finish its cycle after a few attempts! and it seems to be spinning and emptying fine. Any suggestions? Many thanks.
Chris,
Sounds like drain pump has issues… You should remove the drain pump. Inspect for foreign objects. Be sure ALL drain aspects of washer are clean and clear. Once sure, put machine back together and hook to water. Run normal empty load. If you are still having issues then you will know it is not the drain pump. Also, your particular washer will not operate properly without water being hooked up. So we recommend as stated above before replacing anything.
-RR
Mike,
You may have a bad or severely worn out motor coupler/coupling. If the coupler is worn, the washer will usually agitate but not always spin. Hence you having to assist the tub to spin every time. Do some troubleshooting and see what you can find.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 80 Series top loader that will agitate but not spin. If I open the lid and rotate the tub manually then close the lid and initiate the spin cycle again it will usually work, although this may take anywhere from two to 20 times to work.
Any ideas on what the problem might be?
Thank you,
Yes, I received it with the tumbler having standing water in it. I was told it wasn’t draining and I have tried to get it to spin with out any success, hence it doesnt seem to be spinning or draining. I have drained and dryed out the washer. Unless its necesssary I do not see the sense of filling it with water again.
John,
Great! Please keep us updated on how the repair goes and if you have any issues with using refurbished appliance parts.
-RR
You Guys are great, and thank you for understanding! I’m a Senior and I just got so ‘tee’d off’ to say it lightly with pouring out every spare penny to keep my washer alive, that I decided to get brave and educate myself with the wonderful diy videos, and I now have confidence to take it forward. I am doing the diy repairs Only for myself. And, by the way, I have taken photos of my particular machine and close-ups of the parts involved up till now. But I will re-emphasize that I will take a chance on only purchasing ‘used’ or ‘refurbished’, because I have seen some very greedy prices out there….I don’t know how some folks live with themselves! Anyway, if you are interested, I can provide photos of my situation in order to help others. My model that I purchased from Sears in Canada was their ‘Kenmore’…..I had to be a Detective Colombo and was determined to identify who the heck manufactured this Kenmore for Sears. I was successful in tracking the model down to Frigidaire Model #970-C48112-10, and also was able to track down compatible parts made by Westinghouse, etc., and along with the part numbers. I gained confidence on this when I successfully acquired the Door Lock & Switch Assembly [notorious for the wax switch]……thru your help and thru my dogged determination to persist, I feel confident going forward to my next step for the ‘spin board’. And yes, I have done the resets, ie: unplug – close door – wait a minute or so – plug in – open & close door 6 times in 12 seconds! To no avail! You have been very kind to this Canadian, and when I get my next part and install it, I hope it words, and I will let you know! I do very much appreciate your support! I don’t know how people can keep a clean conscience when they charge Seniors, time and time again, for house calls bordering $100. That can buy me a lot of Sardines! ‘H’
John,
Completely understandable. We are not trying to grab your next part. We are curious if you are using brand new replacement parts or used but workable. In our experience, if doing repairs for yourself, this is a completely logical way to DIY. However, if you are repairing an appliance as a service call or professionally, used parts are not usually able to be warrantied for an acceptable amount of time. The risk is having the used replacement part failing early and being forced to complete the whole procedure over again.
-RR
My next replacement part will be a refurbished or used workable part. I check for parts on the internet, and no longer will purchase brand new parts, unless they are a last resort and unless they are not over-priced. I’m looking at one part right now, but don’t wish to reveal where it is, because I think it is the only one on that listing, and I wouldn’t want to jeopardize my attempt to acquire it. I know you’ll understand. But if I am lucky enough to get the part from this particular source, I will then reveal my m.o.
John,
Are you using brand new parts to repair or finding them used? Where are you getting replacement appliance parts from?
-RR
I have a 2003 Frigidaire front load washer and am in the process of diy, due to it not going into a final maximum spin cycle. I have since replaced the Door Lock & Switch Assembly, but the problem still exists. My next step is to access a Motor Control Board [spin control board], which is located at the rear of the washer, and is easily removed by unscrewing the 2 Phillips screws and unplugging the two wire connectors. I have no problem with the pump–it works fine, and everything up to the fast spin works o.k. I have downloaded several diy repair videos, and because I just got so tired of dishing out the $$$ for a professional to attend, I decided to take over, and am enjoying the journey. I have placed two refrigerator plastic roller assemblies under the washing, so that I can easily move it from the wall. I’m getting pretty good at accessing the washer and its parts and have made myself familiar with how to replace them. I feel, every time I access the washer I earn $100 an hour! Good feeling. I hope my next step works with the installation of the control board, and I hope to let you know on this site.
Chris,
Just so we are on the same page, you have NEVER connected it to water as of yet?
-RR
Purchased a Samsung model WF338AAB “VRT Steam” front loading washer with a fair amount of water in the tumbler, I drained the water out and then tried spin only cycles, but didnt spin at all, no motor sounds etc. No error codes at all. Tried resetting it, didnt make any difference. I have not connected it to the water yet. The controls all light up. So it would seem the washer isn’t spinning or draining. I’m trying to fix it myselt. I have some of it apart and was going to remove the front door assy, then will have access to the door switch and drain pump. I don’t want to move it in the laundry and connect it to the water until I can get it to spin as there is no room to take it apart or work on it and since it doesn’t appear to be draining much if any I will have to dry it out again to take it apart.
The door switch I was hoping to check continuity on and the drain pump once I get it out will be able to see if its clogged or not. I’m trying to determine if its most likely the door switch, drain pump, motor, some other board or switch, etc.
My specific questions are:
If the drain pump stopped working, wouldn’t there be a nd error?
If the drain pump stopped working, but the water was drained out by manually drying it out;
Wouldn’t the washer still spin at least?
Would the door switch make it not spin and not drain also?
What is the most likely culprit?
I have a multimeter, I take out the door switch, what is the best method to check it for continuity?
Any suggestions welcome,
Thank you
John,
The door assembly is much cheaper than the control board. Usually when the problem you have exists, the best thing to do (money wise) is to replace the door assembly first. If that does not fix the issue (such as in your case) the next step would be to replace the control board. If you can find a used but confirmed working control board, by all means get that instead of a brand new board. Let us know if you install another control board and the outcome.
-RR
John,
Be sure the drain pump and/or drain tube is not plugged up. Most washers will not spin or rinse properly if the drain pump is clogged.
-RR
Hello, I have a top load whirlpool, model LSQ8543JQ1. It stops halfway before it gets to rinse full of water without draining. I have checked and replaced lid switch, courier and motor but still the same issue. Any advice on what’s next. Or cut my losses and get a new washer.
Thx for the tip, on my road to diy repair to correct the non-high speed spin not happening on my front load washer. It is a Kenmore Model 3970-C44072-00. I’ve tracked similar parts to the Frigidaire Model #970-C48112-10. I recently acquired a ‘new’ Washer Door Lock & Switch Assembly for Frigidaire part #131763202. I’m getting pretty good at instal/uninstall parts with my washer. I went in thru the front of my front load washer, took the spring loaded retainer ring off the rubber seal, pulled the seal back at the 3 o’clock position [of course, unplugged the machine, first], undid the 2 screws that hold the part, unplugged the 3 connections–and installed the new part [parts were identical, with the exception of the colour red on the wax switch [the old one was white]. The problem still exists over 90 percent of the time. Sometimes, when I do a Quick Wash or a Rinse & Spin, in order to get the soaking wet clothes dry…..I have to remove most of the load, and I do not overload the machine. But even with that, I am not always guaranteed a fast spin to make the clothes drier. NEW STRATEGY: I am now looking at replacement for the Motor Control Board [or spin control board]. I removed the one in my machine—-it has two connections and is held in with two screws—situated to the left rear bottom of the machine. I checked visuals on the internet and I believe the part I’m looking for is a Westinghouse #134149220 [also Frigidaire OEM part]. There seems to be a ton of many other numbers involved, ie: serial no’s, etc. But this part, looking at it on the internet, seems to be identical to the part in my machine. I might even try a used, working replacement, or even a refurbished one. I have lost my Fear of working on my washer myself. What are your thoughts on this approach? By the way, the drive belt on my washer tub/motor connection appears to be in good condition. And for easy access, I have placed two roller supports underneath my washer [ones similar to rollers placed under refrigerators]….sure makes access easy! Hope to hear from you, soon!
Thank you for sharing more information on fixing the dryer. Mine has not been functioning properly for the past couple weeks and it is very frustrating. My clothes are in the dryer for over an hour and they are still not dry. It is like it is blowing out cold air and nothing gets hot. My washing machine is not working very well either. Like you said, it might be an electrical spike, a load imbalance or a fault in the computer module. I will have a professional help me out to fix these problems. Thanks, have a nice day!
Fudge,
Washers should have a 2 yr warranty. Have you checked to see if it is under warranty still?
If the washer spins AFTER it is completed washing. It is most likely a fault on the the control board. Can you explain with a bit more detail?
-RR
Hi,
I have a BEKO WCE 15065 S front loader washing machine that is less than 2 years old, the problem is that the machines starts spinning after washing even when i set the machine on NO Spin. What could be the problem because it happens all the time for the past 4 months.
Sandi,
Your drain pump is most likely clogged. Do you hear a buzzing or humming sound when the washer tries to drain? Check if foreign objects are jamming the pump. Also, remove the drain hose and be sure it is not clogged.
-RR
Thank you ! My washer is working again !!!
I have an old Roper. It won’t spin or drain, but washes fine. We called a repair man and when he mentioned “It’s probably your lid switch, have your husband do it”, I laughed and hung up on him. We found the proper lid switch for our model and ordered it online. Today we put it in and tried the washer. It seemed to have the same issue, so I checked here and found your tips, I have tried the reset and it doesn’t seem to be working. So just wondering what my next step is.
Thank so, so much, for your efficient response to my ‘final spin’ issue with my front load washer. And I am greatful for your ‘support’ on this …. When the item arrives, I will install it myself. I’m getting pretty good at that diy door switch thing….And I prefer to do the installation, going in through the doorway, by removing the retaining wire on the rubber door seal — pulling it out from the bottom where the spring is located. And, just as I was thinking about the issue of ‘programming for heavier loads’….which is way over my head….Your PS: comment give me confidence that I am on the right track on this one. I have just become so tired of pouring out $$$, year after year, to have a professional attend my home to do repairs. I can’t thank you enough, and I hope to keep you posted. Regards, from Canada.
John,
The door lock and switch assembly that you have on order, should fix your complete issue once installed. One of the items the control board checks is the spin enable switch in the door latch assembly. If that switch is open, the control board will not allow the drum to go into full or final spin mode. So if your old door lock switch assembly was faulty, the new one should correct your problem. Once you install the new assembly, let us know how it goes and if you need additional assistance please let us know. PS: There is no way to reprogram the machine to work better with heavier loads…. just wait for the assembly and you should be ok.
-RR
I own a 2003 model of a front loading washer ‘Kenmore’ but it is a Frigidaire, as ‘Kenmore’ a Sears brand, was out-sourced to other manufacturers like Whirlpool, Frigidaire, etc. Problem: The final spin no longer ‘kicks-in’. I have checked the water pump–it is spotless. After all of these years, and after over another $600.00 for repairs, I am determined to do DIY. The latest thing I have found is a wonderful YouTube Video with a fine person who shows how to ‘zero-in’ on a common 70 plus percent problem with ‘my issue’ of not final max. spin. It has to do with the ‘Door Lock & Switch Assembly’. I took this part ‘apart’ and closed a contact to make it ‘closer’ to a signal at the end spin cycle….forgive me for not being very technical. In the meantime, I have ordered off of eBay a replacement ‘new’ ‘Door Lock & Switch Assembly], Part #1317632… But/But, in the meantime, after my bending the brass bar to get closer to the ‘switch’ kick-in…….the final spin does not always work. Sometimes, it does work when I remove most of the laundry [soaking-wet load] from the washer—and then the final max. spin kicks in. My Question is—while I’m waiting for my ‘new’ switch/door lock assembly to arrive. Is there a prodocol to re-program my panel to ‘accept’ a heavier load of laundry [more than 2 items], in order to do the ‘final max. spin’. ‘H’
Jacob,
6 weeks? Is it not under warranty? And yes anything can break or malfunction whether old or new. Hopefully you have a warranty. If not explain more about your broken washer and we will be happy to assist further.
-RR
RR,
This washing machine has just been used for only 6 weeks. Can still be a mechanical issue?
Jacob
Jacob,
If it will NOT SPIN and makes noise, obviously there is a mechanical issue. You will have to unplug the machine from electrical power, open the service panel, and have a look inside. Something has more than likely broken or has become worn causing the machine to not spin and be noisy.
-RR
My LG WFT6571 T/LOAD-6.5KG TURBO DRUM wont spin and makes noise. What can I do? Thank you!
Miriam,
It would depend on exactly what is causing the washer to stop spinning. You may have a wiring harness loose or a bad (shorted) wire that connects to the control board. You could open the panel (unplug the machine first) and check visually if everything looks securely connected or possibly a burned shorted wire. If you do not see any visual signs of a problem, then yes it may be the control board. Inspect the wiring and control board and let us know what you find if anything.
-RR
Hi. I have a Kenmore model for 17440 52401 front loading high efficiency washer.it suddenly stopped doing any of the spin cycles including the final spin. It does wash the clothes with the drums spinning during the wash cycle but nothing happens after water drains. I followed your advice for a reset but that did not work. Sears repair was going to come out but they basically told me over the phone it is probably a control panel short and will cost $400. I am about to buy a new washer but am just wondering if replacing the control panel is something realistic for someone who is not very handy person.the washer is almost 10 years old. It had been working perfectly until this happened. Is it even worth it to fix?
Clayton,
Your spin cycle is probably spinning at the appropriate time length, but your drain pump or pump hose is probably slightly obstructed. Which means that all the water is NOT FULLY being pumped out. When this is the case one must remove power, open panel, and inspect pump, impeller, and drain hose for any obstructions.
-RR
when spin cycle is done on my topload washer,the clothes seem to be sopping wet . is it not spinning long enough?
Meta,
Cheapest and easiest way to start troubleshooting would be to test the lid switch with a meter to be sure it is working properly. If it is not then you may have a control board or dial assembly issue.
-RR
Caitlin,
Please tell us the model number and brand of your washer?
You could try unplugging the washer for 10 minutes and see if that resets it.
-RR
Kim,
It could be the door latch malfunctioning. You could test with a meter if you are able.
You could also… pull the pump, clear any debris, clear the drain hose, clear the boot hose, reattach everything and do a test run.
-RR
KH,
Motor coupler OR Agitator Dogs are worn out. Start troubleshooting there.
-RR
My whirlpool top loading machine sounds as though it is slipping occasionally as it agitates and is hit and miss on spinning out, it seems as though the spinning out problem becomes worse the more loads I run back to back. Where should I start to troubleshoot?
I have a Kenmore front end 970-c41032-00 washer machine that will not engage in final spin but water is being released from the washer machine properly. IT just won’t engage in the super fast speed at the end
How do you fix a washing machine when lights are flashing on it?
Can you help me please?
I have a Roper RTW4740YQO that is about 2 1/2 years old. I tried the master reset as suggested above with no success. The lid lock light is coming on between various cycles and the washing machine does not go into the next cycle. The red light is generally flashing, and sometimes the lid is actually locked, but other times it is not. Sometimes the green light indicating the cycle is also blinking. When I press “pause/unlock lid” button, it now takes several minutes to respond. I have to press this button several times and wait, to get the machine to move into the next cycle. When it does not, I have to reset the whole thing. I was thinking lid switch or shift actuator? Thank you! This site is great.
Brad,
This sounds as if the timer has a few bad spots on it. We would recommend to remove and replace the timer assembly.
-RR
Hello, I have a Kenmore 27″ stack able washer dryer model #970-C98802-10. It fills with water but then does not engage the agitator. You can hear the timer inside the control panel quietly ticking away but nothing happens. Now the funny part, the agitator engages and washes no problem when you set it to “delicate”. But nothing happens when you go to the “Regular” or “Permanent Press” cycles.
I have tried a re-set as you suggested. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
RR, It will complete diagnostic cycle perfectly without clothes. With clothes as I mentioned it will error out on the drain/spin test portion.
Please help as I am desperate! This makes no sense to run perfectly without clothes only to error out E58 with clothes.
Thanks In Advance,
Chit
Huey,
Check the other end of the pressure switch hose. Depending on how hard you blew air through it, it should not leak out the other end. This switch or hose may not be your issue. Have you tested the lid switch both electrically and mechanically? We will need to have your Hotpoint washer model number to assist you to troubleshoot your issue.
-RR
Caleb,
Does the washer agitate? If your washer is a top loading and it will not spin, usually this indicates a faulty lid switch. However if your washer is making a strange noise, it could be something binding up and not letting the washer spin. Bad belt, coupler, transmission, clutch, etc. Can you supply us with more details?
-RR
I have an older washer but the bottom of the washer won’t drain. I try putting it on a spin cycle but it won’t turn, it just makes a noise
I have a Hotpoint washing machine. It is not spinning on spin cycle. I tried to reset the system and also blew air through the pressure switch and the clear hose. Still not working. When I blow air through the clear hose, I hear the air releasing somewhere inside. Is that ok or should it it not make air release? The lid switch seems to be fine and the water level seems to work properly. I don’t know what else to try.
Jordan,
This sounds like more of a mechanical issue than electrical. If the lights in the room dim and the machine is humming, most likely the motor is trying to run but something is not allowing it to. Possibly the transmission is bad or the motor itself. The clue here being that the lights in the room dim.
We would recommend taking the service panel off and running the machine while shining a flashlight inside to see. You may have a better understanding of what is causing this issue.
-RR
I have a Kenmore Elite top loader. The other day it stopped agitating and spinning. It fills normally, but when it goes into either of these modes, there is a low hum from the machine and the lights in the room dim. This sounds like some sort of electrical problem to me but I haven’t found anything quite like it online. Please help. Thank you.
Chit,
Have you tried running the diagnostic or test mode? Just curious if the machine completes a full diagnostic test.
-RR
RR, It usually does not error out until quite sometime has passed. But when clothes are in the machine it does not act the way it does when empty. (tumbling back and forth, spinning. It acts as if it can sense it has clothes in it and does not go into the full spins) WE tested the ohms as it recommended and all was fine, so I ordered a brand new control board- but it did the same thing. I thought it had to have a weight sensor but I could not find one in the parts list so I ordered a new motor. Same problem- E58. No clothes will work fine goes into a full 1400 rpm spin like a champ. All cycles that I have tried without clothes no errors, no burning smell no funny noises. Now that I have so much invest with new parts in this machine I would really like to get it to work? Anything else I can check? Thanks so much for getting back to me!
Chit,
If you have clothing in the washer, at what point does the e58 error code appear? E58 could mean a number of issues, but mostly that the motor is overheating or a higher than usual motor current caused by different issues. Since you replaced the motor and motor control board, did anything change from the previous issue or was it exactly the same? When you run the washer empty, does it go through all cycles perfectly? No errors? No burning smell? No different types of sound coming from washer?
-RR
Hello- I have a #EWFLS70JRR Frontload Electrolux. The E58 error code comes up when I have clothes in it but will wash fine without clothes. I have follow the test and even replaced the motor and the motor and motor control board and I still get the same e58 error code.
I have no idea what else to do as I could not find a weight sensor-
Please help?
Thanks-
Tim
I appreciate all the help provided, I did forget to say that during the spin the washer shakes sometimes a little sometimes more with the same result. I will check the board wires to see if I find any loose cables; in the mean time my wife loss her patience and bought a Maytag Bravos XL MVWB725BW which she was told is a really good machine. Let hope :)
Jordan,
Take the drain hose out of the wall behind the washer and put the end of it in a large bucket that can hold all the water that is trapped in the washer. Then access the pump and remove any debris that is causing your NO DRAIN issue.
-RR
Felipe,
The most likely component that is causing your issue is the main control board. Seems that everything is working mechanically by what you have said. If the control board is adding extra time to the wash cycle and is stopping for no reason, then the control board is most likely at fault. You can try to see if possibly there are loose wires or a loose wiring harness going to or from the control board. If the wires are loose then the problem you stated can occur.
-RR
Chris,
Unplug the machine for 10 minutes and see if that resets it. A component may have overheated from overloading the machine and just needs time to cool down.
-RR
Sarah,
Try unplugging the machine for 10 minutes. If the F01 or F1 error code keeps appearing, then this indicates a fault in the Motor or the Control Board. But there is a procedure that Hotpoint says can fix it…
The Hotpoint service manual says:
Unplug the washing machine. Take the rear panel off. The main board is bottom left when viewed from the rear. Take the board out. Take the plugs off and plug them on again to ensure they are clean, dry and tight fitting. Check the circuit board for any obvious damage. Check the motor plug and wiring.
If the F1 error code keeps appearing after the service check method above, then either the motor or board needs replaced for sure. You can either check the components yourself or call a repair person to be safe.
-RR
Felipe,
We honestly cannot say which washer is better. Consumer Reports is a good website to check for which washing machine is best and recommended.
-RR
Hi;
I do not want to put you on the spot but under 1K which washer would you buy and expect the longer time without any problems? I have a Maytag that lasted 8 years and a Sansung that only lasted 2.
Thanks
Hotpoint front loader washer stopped spinning and still water in the tub and showing F1 error.
I have a front loading Beko WM1412 which suddenly stopped spinning and produced a burning smell. I immediately switched it off and removed all the clothes. I then attempted to run it on a short cycle whilst empty but now all I get is clicking sound from the rear of the machine. It does however fill up with water. The belt has been checked and is in very good shape. I must admit I had overloaded the machine at the time of the fault, which is not something I’d done before, so, my thinking is that the overloading has fried the electrics…..I don’t know. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I have a Samsung WA456DRHDWR/AA Washer. It just started to act up about 4 months ago, the washer is only 2 years old. During the final spin stage (doesn’t matter which wash type was selected). The final spin will start for a minute or two (building up speed) and then the machine stops, adds about 10 minutes to the wash and starts adding water again over and over again. I’m not sure to to fix this. This behavior is consistent and it never completes the final spin.
I’ve run the diagnostic test, draining works fine, spin test goes over 1000rpm, water temperatures are ok, the lid sensor correctly detects the open/closed state. Try disconnecting from power and plug back it would work one time an go back to the same problem. I did lower the speed of the spin to medium during the final spin and it worked for a couple of days on and off. Would you have any suggestions that I can try? Anything would be appreciated.
PS I also searched the web and if I am not mistaken there have been problems with this machine.
I have a ge top load washer that will not drain completely. The clothes are still a little wet. How can I drain all the water to check the pump?
Sharat,
You may have a bad door switch. If the door switch is failing the dryer may work sporadically. Check where the door shuts and makes contact with the switch and check for any obvious signs of damage. You can take the switch out and check with a multimeter. Another issue could be the belt is frayed and slips on occasion. You would have to open the machine up to check visually. Is the heater heating despite the non turning drum?
-RR
I have semi automatic LG 7.0 (P8031R3F) model washing machine. The washer works fine – but the dryer is not spinning. Earlier it did stop but after several lid closings – it started working. I suspect due to 1. Over Load, 2. Any motor belt slip. 3. Faulty dryer (Needs new one). Any suggestions plz. Thank you.
Jane,
IF MOTOR RUNS, THEN STOPS: If it seems the motor runs but then stops when it is supposed to be is wash or spin mode, then it could be a number of things. However if you hear the motor run, then we can almost be sure the motor works. It seems that something is telling the motor to turn off. Possibly the control board is faulty, has loose wires, or a timer is not working properly.
IF MOTOR RUNS THROUGH COMPLETE CYCLE: If the motor is making noise the whole time it should be running a cycle but the drum is not turning then a belt or motor coupler is most likely bad.
-RR
The machine is no longer under warranty and is five years old. I tried running in the “Spin Only” cycle and it’s the same as with all the other cycles, a click, the sound of the motor running, another click, the sound of the motor, and then nothing. The drum does turn normally without effort and is centered, not rubbing against the door seal. It does sound like the motor is actually turning, I think, and not just trying to turn, but I’m not completely positive. It makes the noise for about three or four seconds and then stops and is quiet, so maybe that means it’s not actually turning over?
I tried running “Spin Only” and it’s just like running any of the other cycles–I can hear the motor running but the tub does not spin. I turned it by hand and it turns normally and doesn’t look off center or rub against the door seal. I think, but I’m not positive, that the motor is turning. In fact, it sounds pretty much like it did when it operated normally, only now it’s just not turning the tub. I think it’s technically not a humming sound, just the motor running, but no spin.
Jane,
What happens if you try and run the wahser on the “Spin Only” cycle. If you hear the motor running, but the tub is not spinning, shut it down and open the door and try to turn the tub by hand. Does the drum turn normally without much effort? Is the tub centered or look off center at all? Does the tub rub against the door seal? If you hear humming, try to distinguish if the motor is actually turning or if it is trying to turn but unable to thus the humming sound is heard. Is your washer still under warranty?
-RR
Colin,
Check to see if you are getting the proper voltage to that solenoid. Also, are you buying aftermarket parts or genuine OEM?
-RR
I have a AWE6517 top loader. Wont let in water, so changed water inlet solenoid and it worked for about 10 washes, then stopped, changed solenoid again, it worked for a time then same problem. HELP.
I have a front loading Samsung washer (WF218anw/aa-01) that drains, but will not spin. Once the door is shut and the cycle “begins” (with two clicks), the motor hums, but the drum does not turn. Could this be a motor coupler? I don’t think it’s the pump (since it drains and is clear) or the door latch, since water does start to run. Thank you!
TAE,
When a washer makes a buzzing sound, the most common fault is that there is something stuck in the pump and blocking it. The buzzing sound occurs as the drain pump tries to run but something is blocking it and the “buzzing” noise occurs. You will need to remove the drain pump and check for objects jamming it. If you do not know how to access the drain pump, do a search on YouTube with your brand and model number and you will find videos that show the complete procedure.
-RR
I have a whirlpool top loading washing machine and while I was washing clothes it stopped and didn’t drain any water and when I try to turn it on it just makes a buzzing sound
Paul,
That is up to you. But…. Since it is not an electrical issue, it MAY be safe to use for a few more washes. However, if the bearing completely falls out, the shaft or tub COULD chafe on an electrical component and cause the machine to short out and blow the breaker or fuse. If the bearing is not completely worn and just making noise, it may last a hundred more washes, who really knows.
It may be wise to take the machine apart to be sure it is the bearing. It may be something else that would not cause you to replace the machine.
-RR
Thanks for that. I think it is time for a new machine. One last question, would it be dangerous to keep using it? Would it blow up or anything if it was spinning fast?
Thankyou!! I unplugged it and did the door thing and it worked!!!
Russ,
The 5E error code means that it is taking the washer MORE than 15 minutes to drain. This could only mean that there is a clog or blockage somewhere.
First… Clean the debris filter.
Then… Make sure the drain hose is not clogged. To be sure, detach the drain hose from washing machine. Run water through it in the sink to be sure it is clear and free of blockage. Also, make sure the drain hose is installed correctly. Another issue could be that there is something large lodged or jammed in the drain pump not letting the water flow out properly. If the filter and drain hose is clear, then the drain pump is probably clogged.
The 4E error code means the washer is not getting water. Check to be sure that you have turned the water to the washer back on (hot and cold). If they are on then check the water mesh hose filter for debris. Also be sure the washer water line hoses are not bent. Water mesh filter instructions here
-RR
Paul,
If the machine is that old and it needs a new bearing, yes sir it is time for a new washer. You could get it repaired but it would most likely cost half of what a new machine will cost. A brand new washing machine will benefit you by having a warranty and saving you money in electricity costs.
-RR
Hi there, I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to fix my washer, I have a samsung sw80sp top loader, at first I got a 5e code while the machine was in soak mode, so I drained the water manually now I try to do a normal cycle no water goes in and I get the 4e code after 4 minutes, I have checked all hoses and pump there are no blockages anywhere and also used the reset method to no avail, please help me
There’s no burning smell. I’ve been having a look online and on Youtube and if it is the bearing, which i think you’re right in saying, well its a pretty big job, and I’m useless at these things. Do you think I’m better just getting a new machine? I’ve had this one for over ten yrs and its already been repaired once, about five yrs ago which cost me well over 100 pounds…
Paul,
Whirlpool Front Load Washer Model Number AWO 3761 making a grinding noise will most likely be because of a bad rear bearing. If the rear bearing has failed it will mean the replacement of the entire rear tub shell. The bearing is molded into the plastic and cannot be replaced separately. This is not a very good design but that’s just the way it is on this particular washer. It could also be a broken tub support on the spin basket. Is there any type of burning smell when the grinding noise is happening?
-RR
Hey there. Thanks for replying. My Whirlpool Front Load Washer is model # AWO 3761 /5/S
Hi Paul,
You may have a bad main bearing. We can tell you the exact part that is causing your issue if you give us a model number of your front load whirlpool washer. Please reply to this with model number and we will research further.
-RR
I have a whirlpool front loader and its working ok, except when it spins its making piercing noises and grinding noises. When i take my wash out, and give it a wee spin with my hand, it again grinds and doesn’t sound right. Its not so bad when it spins clockwise, but when it turns the other way, anti clockwise, it starts grinding and making grinding noises? Any idea why this may be happening? Any advice would be greatly appreciated..thanks, Paul
John,
The washer Lid switch (AND OR DOOR LATCH) is the most common no spin and no final spin symptom. Draining is a separate function. This page has all the parts you need for your exact washer…. Parts for Kenmore Washer 417.44152400.
-RR
Kyle,
The washer Lid switch is the most common no spin and no final spin symptom. Draining is a separate function. Lid switch to agitate may be a sometimes issue. Lid switch is most common problem as this will break away from its mounting screws and drop away from the actuating push finger yet still appear to be in place.
-RR
Nigel,
Your washer DRAIN HOSE is causing a siphoning condition.
Your washing machine drain hose is pushed way too far into the stand pipe in the wall.
There needs to be an air gap and by having the drain pipe pushed too far there is no air gap.
This creates a vacuum or siphoning affect and the water is pulled out of the washer as it fills with water.
What you need to do is pull the drain hose out of the stand pipe and put it back in making sure it is not in the wall too far or too deep.
There needs to be a bend at the apex of the drain hose.
It needs to be above the height of the wash tub.
Once you have the drain pipe or hose in the exact position you need it to be in to not cause siphoning, tie the drain hose to the water fill hoses with a plastic zip tie so it can’t fall back down deep or pull out.
-RR
Hi,
I have a LG 7kg top loader that won’t fill with water. When you turn it on and let the water fill it just run’s out of the drain hose. Is there some sort of valve that could be faulty?
I have a Maytag Centennial Washer, Model # mvwc450xw2—top loader HE-no agitator (but some how it agitates me!) ….The washer will wash loads then drain them but will not spin them out. Sometimes we go back and put it on Drain and Spin and it will work….it will spin the clothes…sometimes it will not. I am told it works if we add the “additional rinse” cycle on. Very frustrating. Any thoughts?
Hi I have a kenmore washer model 417.44152400 that will do everything but spin I have replaced the motor control board and the panel control board it still won’t spin it will however spin if I do the diagnostic test can you help please
Ray,
Sounds like a classic case of a BAD LID SWITCH. Have you checked your lid switch mechanically and electrically?
-RR
Hi I have a Top Load Kenmore 90 Series Washing Machine.
The Washing Machine wasnt spinning and it was making a heavy vibration noise and so I researched that it may be a Motor Coupler so I removed and replaced the coupler and I also decided to replace the pump since I had it apart.
I put it all back to together correctly and I turned on the spin cycle and it is still making the same vibration noise and still Not spinning. I took off the Washing Machine housing / shell and I am looking at the motor area and I am not sure what I should be looking for. I did see a rubber belt that looked in bad shape around some kind of round stationary housing down below under the tub area and It didnt look like it was attached to anything so it didnt seem like it was a necessary item. Other than that I dont know what could possibly cause the Washing Machine Not to spin.
Just an FYI when I moved the washing machine to work on it the first time I happen to notice some kind of narrow and thin half a circle metal Clip
Thank you
Ray
Dylan,
If the washer drains on the initial wash cycle, and does not in the final cycle, it is most probable an electrical, timer, or wiring issue. A bad lid switch would prevent your machine from spinning and draining. However your lid switch could be having intermittent issues. Check it with a multimeter and go from there.
-RR
First of all Kenmore/Sears help is horrible. I have a Kenmore 800 model #110.29822800 washer machine. The water on the rinse cycle will not drain. It drains fine and spins out the water for the initial wash cycle, but fails to do that for the rinse cycle. Any ideas what could be going wrong? I was told by Sears it could be a lid switch issue, but it agitates and spins fine for the wash cycle. Thinking it might be a dial switch issue. Could you please offer any assistance? Thank you.
Absolutely brilliant website. Just fixed the mother in law’s washing machine that would not spin in 2 minutes flat using your tip for master reset. Now my backside’s the source of the sun!
Thanks a million.
Charlene,
Instead of reinventing the wheel………. Try looking on Ebay, Amazon, and specialized appliance parts companies online. We bet you can find that part as it is probably still on someones shelf collecting dust. Check this link on Ebay and see if this is the Samsung Drain Pump Assembly you need. Also, we have seen an upgrade kit for your particular washer to fix the issue with the pump. You should be able to find it on the same Ebay page.
If you do not want to simply buy the exact replacement part in fear of the flooding issue again, it would be possible to mount it elsewhere. You would need to possibly extend some of the hoses, drill holes, and position it in an area where it would have no interference with the drum.
-RR
We have a Samsung top loader WA456DRHDWR/AA. The plastic pump housing blew apart and flooded our house. I have talked to Samsung and they were aware that this particular model has had this default. The problem is, they no longer make the part, nor do they make the replacement part. Our machine was manufactured on May 15 2013. That is the date on the washer info, as well as the pump. The pump is fine. Samsung has been of no help. Is there a way that we can somehow attach the pump to the frame of washer while being able to stabilize the drum. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Scott,
Is it a top loading washer or front loading washer? If top loader, then most likely the lid switch is bad. A front loader can be a number of things. You would need to check inside the machine to see if there is anything mechanically wrong. If the belt is fine, then it could be a motor issue or other. You will need to do some troubleshooting.
-RR
Hi my bosch washer wont spin. The belt is fine and. Its draining ok but wont spin at all. What can it be?
Brian,
Since it “barely” works, it is most likely these parts…
Stator Assembly and or Rotor Assembly – If the washer won’t spin the stator assembly at the back of the washer tub might be bad or damaged. The rotor is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the rotor fails or is damaged the washer might not spin or agitate. Check the rotor for damaged magnets.
-RR
Hi,
I have a Samsung front loader (WF328aaw/xaa) that has developed a problem with the spin. It does still spin, but just barely. While making a sad squeaking sound, it manages to go around once a second or so. Needless to say, I have to fix this as the clothes come out dripping wet. Any ideas on what might have failed? I’ve successfully replaced the heating element a couple times in the dryer, so I’m feeling bold here and will try to do this myself.
Thanks,
Brian
Felipe,
Unplug for 15 minutes. Plug back in and run a quick load EMPTY. See what happens. Are you getting an error code?
-RR
I have a Samsung WA5451 Washer. It just started to act up during the final spin stage (doesn’t matter which wash type was selected). The final spin will start for a minute or two (building up speed) and then the machine stops, adds about 10 minutes to the wash and starts adding water again. I’m not sure to to fix this. This behavior is consistent and it never completes the final spin.
I’ve run the diagnostic test, draining works fine, spin test goes over 1000rpm, water temperatures are ok, the lid sensor correctly detects the open/closed state. Would you have any suggestions that I can try? Anything would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Renee,
Most likely your issue is your lid switch has gone bad either electrically or mechanically. This is what makes your top load washer spin and it is there for safety. It could also be that there is something lodged or clogging the drain pump. These 2 issues are what we believe could be causing your issue.
Service technician costs can vary. Most charge around $80 to $120 just to come out and then over charge you on the parts. Find one that will troubleshoot your problem for free…. Yes they do exist! Look online and call a few to see what they offer. If you call a repair person to fix this issue it will probably be over $250.
-RR
Hi– this website is so helpful! My Kenmore top loader (Model 110.26912691) stopped working during the spin cycle last night–all I heard was a loud crashing and crunching sound. It never finished the cycle and apparently never drained. It will oscillate on any cycle, but it will neither drain nor spin. I tried the reset to no avail. Any suggestions? Also, out of curiosity, what is a reasonable ballpark that I should expect to pay a repairman for a service call? I have always heard it’s horribly expensive, but perhaps you can give me a range of what to expect. Thanks for all of your advice on this page!
-R
Kim,
When you have to “help” your washing machine start to spin by using your hand and turning it, it will usually mean you have something worn out on your washer that needs replaced.
More than likely there is oil leaking onto the clutch. Lean the washer back against the wall and look under it and see if you find a streak or puddle of oil. If so you have to replace a few parts. The parts you will need will be a gear case top seal, a clutch and a drive coupler.
If you find no oil under your washer let us know and we will happily give further advice.
-RR
Hi!
I have an older model top loading whirlpool washer. It will not spin unless you open the lid and give the basket a “boost”. Any ideas? Thx!
Kevin,
Remove and Replace the Lid Switch.
-RR
Hi,
My top loader is a Kenmore 80 series Mod 110.23812100 S/N CM5032722. Tried the reset 3 times and problem remains the same. No spin on normal but does start to spin after I lift lid and close it.
Kevin
Shenita,
On top load washers, when they stop spinning or spin intermittently, the lid switch is usually to blame. Remove and replace the lid switch. The clicking noise may be the lid switch clicking in but electrically it is not working. A top load washer WILL NOT SPIN if the lid switch is faulty or if the lid is left in the open position.
-RR
My top load General Electric washing machine was washing the loads of clothes and sometimes spinning, sometimes not. Now it is loading the machine with water, but instead of washing, the machine makes a clicking noise. What do I need to do
Also look for articles of clothing wedged in between the tub & the outside. Our Whirlpool washer wouldn’t spin, so we used the reset method. Didn’t work. Tore the washer apart for the coupler. It was fine. Was cleaning it up to put back together to check switch & hubby found an old sock that looked like it was spun around itself a zillion times wedged in between the drum & the “casing” causing the drum not to spin.
Kevin,
Sounds like the timer or selector switch has some bad spots on it. Also there may be an issue with the lid switch. It could be a combination problem. If you could supply us with the Model number of your Kenmore washer we could investigate further.
-RR
Hi
I have a Kenmore top loader that doesn’t spin on the spin cycle when in normal wash mode (agitates at slow/fast) but will spin on the delicate cycle (agitates at slow/slow) However in the normal mode, if I lift the lid then close it again, it will start to spin. Drains OK on both cycles. Has been making major clunking noises when changing modes from wash to spin even in delicate.
Any ideas would be appreciated
Kevin
Amy,
What model number is your washer? If it is a top load washer then it may be a bad lid switch.
The dryer problem could be, a 240V machine only getting 120V, a bad thermal fuse, and or a bad belt. Check to be sure your dryer is getting full 240v by checking your breaker at the breaker box as sometimes these have 2 breakers and one of them may be off. A thermal fuse will not allow your dryer to get heat when it is bad. A broken belt will make it so your dryer drum will not turn.
-RR
Hi, I have a Whirlpool washer and it fills water in, takes a Lil spin, drains but doesn’t spin dry.My clothes are still soaking wet inside. Please help on what seems to be the problem here. Also, my dryer doesn’t even dry…you can hear the sound as if it was drying but its not moving inside…and the heat is not working
Julie,
Check that the lid switch did not come loose or disconnect. You can also try turning power off to the machine for 10 minutes and see if that does a reset. If not there may be a sensor in the machine that needs reset. You will need to check your manual.
-RR
Hello I have an indesit washer/dryer and I think I over loaded if, it stopped on the spin and drain cycle and now it will work on everything else besides the drain and spin cycle.. :(
Norm,
It should just screw out. If not then there may be so much gunk in there it is preventing it from being removed. Are you using a tool to remove it or just by hand? You may want to get a tool and try to pry the cover without damaging it.
-RR
Brandon,
Some older models have multiple belts. Also different pulleys to agitate and to spin. Check to be sure one of the belts are not frayed or broken. Just so we can be sure, can you supply us with the model number of your washer?? You also could have a bad timer.
-RR
EH,
Once the washer is full of water and agitating, does it sometimes fill again until finally you get the error FH? We have seen this condition caused by a water level switch pressure tube that has gotten caught in the pulley. It then rubs a hole in the tube and will cause a slow leak which evetually overfills the machine.
-RR
Aj D,
You could replace the timer or dial, and see if the water inlet valve where the water enters the washer is working properly. Yes replacing the complete washer is an option but the issue you are having is probably just one simple part that needs replaced. Do some extra troubleshooting before you start shopping for a new washer.
-RR
The lid switch seems fine. When it’s oscillating, it stops when i open and re starts when I close. Furthermore, now it wont fill pour water in. I had shut the valves, when I re open, I go to start a load and no water pumps. I’m beginning to think it’s electrical, as the cycles are no longer lining up with the spots on the dial. (I put it on heavy,and it oscillates, I ask it to spin, it thinks it’s done)
My whirlpool washer won’t drain the water and it has the error code FH.
Hello, i have an older maytag top loading washer. It is not agitating but will spin when set on rinse/spin
RR
It’s the access cover to the water pump down in the lower right corner front panel of the machine. The one they say to remove occasionally to check for foreign objects.
Ty,
First open the top of the washer to gain access to the control board and see if a wire harness may be loose or not connected at all. Then open the service panel and check the inside of the machine to see if there is anything loose or out of position. If you continue to have issues then it may be best to replace the control board as it seems the machine is doing unexpected abnormal things.
-RR
Adam,
Check the pulleys to be sure they are tight. Also the belt may be worn as when the clothing is in the washer the weight of the tub is heavy and difficult to turn therefore stretching out the belt to the point where it turns but the grip on the pulley is sliding and causing the NOT SPINNING FAST ENOUGH issue. Best thing to do is buy a new belt and while you are replacing it check everything else to be sure everything is secure and tight.
-RR
Susan,
Did the repairman take the panels off and physically examine the washer? It is possible the control panel may be at fault but there are parts in the washer that could be causing the problems besides just the belts. We have seen this sort of issue before and it was simply a loose wiring harness. Take the front panel off to gain access to get to the control board and be sure all wire harnesses are making contact and are secure. You could also remove the service panel and let the machine run and visually watch with a flashlight to see what exactly happens when the machine gets to the spin cycle.
-RR
Aj D,
Have you made sure the lid switch is making contact with the lid? It may be broken mechanically or not getting electrical power so the machine thinks the lid is not being closed.
-RR
Norm,
Can you explain in a little more detail? Are you talking about the filter cover?
-RR
we have a splendide 2000s and I can’t get the access cover off to clear out any objects which may be inside. I have followed the instructions in the manual. It turns to a full stop in both directions, but will not pull out even when I try using pliers. what’s happening?? hope you can help me.
Hey there. I have a hotpoint top load. The number on the service paper is 175d2750g381. It does everything but spin dry. It oscillates, but when the spin comes, nothing. I have checked the belt and it’s fine. The top switch is fine as it oscillates. What’s my next step? Ps.. thanks for your time!
I have a Whirlpool HE washer, model# WTW495OXW3 that is not spinning out. I called a repair man today and he told me that all the belt are fine and that its the microprocessor that needs to be replaced. The machine is just over 2yrs old and I am having an issue with this diagnosis. He told me that it would cost apron $250.00 for the part and that I should just get a new washer. I did call Whirlpool to complain and they told me that had not heard of this issue before. Who is giving me the run around here? Do you have any suggestions if this diagnosis is forrest or any ideas. Thank you!
i have a GE Infusor Guide that is 3 years old. When doing laundry the washer will not spin up fast on the last spin cycle ( it is spinning, just not fast). I tried the code reset, the belt looks and feels fine. Seems like the motor doesn’t have enough HP to spin fast anymore. The washer fills, drains, and agitates like it is suppose too. Please help
Adam
Samsung front load washing machine model # WF209ANW/XAA
Recently had this given to me by a neighbor that had no insight about anything… (Sketchy but I took it) plugged it in hooked up the hoses turned it on and tried a normal wash… Does not run water or spin just locks and unlocks door… Put it on the rinse spin cycle and motor makes weird noises like it’s trying to spin and the door locks and unlocks again… Searched the house and opened all gate valves fully and came back to try the normal cycle… Tried selecting warm/warm and it skips over itself… Selected cold/cold and it sprayed for a few seconds and then I stopped it to see if the tub would leak… Let it set for an hour and water is still in the bottom so I’m satisfied there’s no leaking issues but now on normal or any selection it just sits there and does not run water or do anything… I’ve tried the unplug and reset advice to no avail… Appreciate any feedback
Keith,
Which spring was broken? Have you checked the belt?
-RR
Robert,
Possibly the burning smell is a frayed belt. You will probably need to replace the belt and while you are at it buy a new lid switch. Once those 2 parts are installed, test the machine and be sure everything is working properly. These 2 items will hopefully remedy your issue.
-RR
Sharon,
Does your washer drain?
-RR
Sheri,
Most likely the belt has broken. If the machine is making noise but nothing moves, it’s the belt.
-RR
Tim,
Your washer may have missing or loose springs or adjustment levers that hold the tub in the center. Check to see if a spring or similar is broken or missing.
-RR
I have a top loading maytag washer MAVT236AWW . when it spins it makes a grinding noise. When we moved it there was a pile of plastic shavings under the washer. It also will not spin at top speed even when there is nothing in it. I have taken the sides off of the washing machine an checked out the drive pulley and it is still very sturdy no signs of worn gears from the outside. When the tub is spinning it slaps the side of the machine like the load is unbalanced What could be the problem
I have a roper top loading washing machine that just stopped spinning. It just sits and makes humming noise. Any suggestions.
I have an Amana model number NFW7200TW. It goes through the whole wash cycle until it gets to the 8 minute mark for the spin cycle and it never gets past it. It spins but never gets up to speed and then just keeps trying. I don’t get an error code, It will do this for an hour if I let it. Not sure what to check first.
Hi,
I recently had a problem with my old top loading Frigidaire FWS833AS2 where it would stop right before the rinse and spin cycle. thought it was the pump, replaced it and it still did that. I messed around with the lid switch and I have been able to make it work for a month now.
Today it did that a few times, so I messed with the lid switch and it came back on. Now finally it stopped in the middle of the normal wash cycle and there is/was a slight burning smell. Now it will not turn back on, on any setting.
After waiting a while (30 minutes) the machine will try to turn back on when I pull the knob. It makes a very pathetic whirring sort of noise for maybe 10 seconds, then cuts out again. Any idea what the problem is?
Thanks!
frigidaire washer trun on light come on and normal noise but it not spinning or moving, open washer and the spring was broken replace it and the washer still not moving
This is the best ever troubleshooting post I had after searching online. I was able to make my GE washer spinning again with the code reset. You guys rock!
Wasinda,
The DE fault code can appear if something is caught in the door, if you paused the machine during wash or if the door is damaged. Remove any item that may be stuck in the washer’s door. If you are still getting the DE error code then unplug the machine for five minutes. Plug it back in and power it back on. This may reset the error code and fix your issue.
If the door is stuck closed power off the machine and unplug it. After five minutes plug it back in and restart the machine. Try to open the door again. The locked door and the DE error is simply a safety precaution. Try the reset procedure and your washer should be back to normal.
-RR
i use an LG toploader that spins for few seconds and then stops. it then displays the dE error sign even though the lid is closed.
M,
You never gave us the brand of your washer. We believe you are needing info on a Kenmore 80 series, above you stated 800. Please reply back with this info and the model number. Also the model number of the lid switch part number you purchased from Sears.
-RR
We were having to smack the lid to get the washer to come on, so we watched the you tube videos then changed the broken switch, but the machine is still not working. I think maybe we have another problem… because the washer stopped during the wash cycle. I could not turn the agitator it just locked up and I don’t know if that it’s normal. It just seems like it I missed something. The lid switch replacement bought at the local Sears parts store didn’t come with wires as we’d seen on the videos. (The switch was broken.) Is there a video which shows the replacement on an 800 series washer? And LASTLY, the brackets popped off and fell to the floor when I used the screw driver. I had a hard time putting them back into place. Again…is there a video to SHOW me how to put them back into place? Or a clear explanation.
I used the master reset technique….unplug for 1 minute, then open/close/open/close/open/close/open/close/open/close/open/close….and it WORKED. for 2 months now i’ve been pulling my hair out bc of my darn washer…thank YOU!
Jamie,
Have you removed the panel and inspected inside the washer? You may have a faulty timer, a faulty lid switch, a bad drive belt, and or a motor.
-RR
Hi! We have a GE Top Loading Washer (Model# GTWN3000M1WS). The washer won’t agitate or spin. Fills with water and drains only. We tried resetting it by unplugging for a minute and then opening and closing the lid 6 times in 12 seconds within 30 seconds or replugging it back in. The reset worked once (kind of). It agitated the clothes and drained, but then it stopped working again. The red light is flashing three times, which we understand to be a software issue. We’ve checked the belt, cogs, and lid sensor with an ohm meter. We are trying to figure out if the reset doesn’t work, is our only option to buy a new motor or replace the washer? Thank You! Jamie
Viv,
Check the pump to be sure it is operating properly. Sometimes a small article of clothing can get stuck in it and prevent it from draining the water out. Have you also checked the filter at the front bottom right on your washer? How to clear a blocked pump on your Hotpoint Washing Machine
-RR
Hi, I have a front loading Hotpoint Aquarius , its spinning ok but not draining. I have checked the outlet pipe and all looks ok. Could it be the pump? Thanks
Olya,
We have recently worked on that exact model washer, same problem… We found that the wiring harness was bad. We also replaced the control board and after much troubleshooting and ended up being one section of the wiring harness being bad. Carefully examine the wiring harness to see if there is any visible damage. If not you will need to use a multimeter to find if that is in fact the root of your problem. Here is the EXACT wiring harness that fixed our problem that will POSSIBLY be your solution also. It is not cheap so be sure this is the part you need before buying it.
Let us know how everything works out and if you need more assistance please let us know.
-RR
We have Frigidaire Front Load Washing Machine FAFW3801LW3 and it is a year and a half old.
Suddenly it stopped working: no spinning, no draining. It fills a little with water and then – calmness. The timer on the control board is running like showing that the washing cycle is running, but actually there are no sounds from the machine.
My husband has cleaned the drain, belts and motor are fine, replaced the control board. We have reset the machine several times. First time on the screen was LOC and it didn’t start the cycle at all though the door/ lid was closed. After next reset the machine started the cycle but after locking the door and filling it with a little of water nothing happens: No spinning, no draining. It doesn’t work with or without clothes.
Maybe it was overloaded several times but with light clothes, but nevertheless it was working after it.
Any advice will highly appreciated! Thank you very much in advance!!!!!
Hi Johnathan,
The lid switch may have come loose on the housing and the washer lid can’t push the button down to complete the electrical cycle.
Even though you replaced it, be sure it is secure and aligned properly.
-RR
i have a Whirlpool washer that will not cycle – here is what i have done so far with no results
-Bypassed the lid switch
-installed brand new timer
Symptoms so far include
-starting cycle but getting to rise and or spin with out engaging
-I hear the timer power up but when then i here a click deep down with in the washer and the timer stops
-when i leave it unplugged for some time it will work correctly and engage in spin and rise after being plugged in
Is there some thing im missing — please help
Hi Zarir,
What is the model number of your Samsung top load washing machine? Are you getting an error code?
Have you tried setting the washer to a different wash cycle and running it completely empty and see the result?
-RR
hi
my washing machine is samsung top loader. my problem is the washing machine seem not spinning. the tub just spin a bit to the right and then to the left and it keep doing just that. try to reset as you mention but still the same. any advise? is the motor faulty or the electronic part?
Mike,
The clicking noise is the control(s) ending the current cycle then momentarily the pump should start pumping out the water (draining). Check electrical connections to and from the pump and test for open circuit resistance with a continuity meter. Also check for blockages as an obstruction can jam a pump and prevent it from running. They are not very strong and something small can stop them from pumping. So see if it is getting power and also check for a blockage. If it is receiving power and there is no blockage, it may be a component of the control panel not functioning properly.
-RR
After the final spin cycle, with the agitator spinning, the spin cycle stops and nothing happens. The normal clicking near the controls happens but then nothing. The water doesn’t drain. Is it the pump? It was working Saturday then stopped Sunday.
Hi Steven,
Yes absolutely that is the problem. The lid switch may just need to be simply adjusted or the piece on the lid that makes contact with the lid switch may be bent or the rubber piece on the end may have fallen off. Check everything and make the proper adjustments to try and fix the problem. If not a lid switch for a KitchenAid top loading washing machine should be from about $8 dollars to about $30 dollars. You will find that Whirlpool makes most of the universal lid switches for washing machines.
-RR
I have a KitchenAid top loading washing machine. Everything works and starts fine, but usually about halfway through the cycle it stops. In order to get it started again I need to pound on the lid, or open and let the lid drop down hard, and then it will finish the load and drain just fine. Would this be a faulty lid switch?
Thank you in advance!
-ST
Hi David,
A slow spin on a top load washer can be because of a faulty clutch, brakes that stick, a worn drive block, motor coupler, clothing STUCK between the tubs, and or a faulty gearcase.
Most likely your washing machine problem will be because of a bad clutch and possibly a motor coupler. If you replace those 2 items this will most likely fix your problem. You can buy the parts online but be sure to buy genuine Whirlpool replacement parts as there are others out there that are cheap but will not last very long.
If you have any other questions or need more help just write another comment and we will respond back ASAP. Thanks.
-RR
Hi, I have a Roper (Whirlpool) top loader. The spin cycle is not working properly, even the spin at the end of the rinse cycle. The water drains and the shell tries to spin but doesn’t get enough momentum to reach full spin. Sometimes I can get it going by helping it spin by hand, and once it gets going it will complete the cycle perfectly. It seems like the clothes get caught up on the agitator blades at the bottom of the shell and it keeps the shell from spinning, or gaining enough momentum to get to full speed. Is this possible? Thank you for your help!
David
Hi Ashley,
Sounds like the direct drive is not functioning properly or the tub is not aligned correctly. Is it possible the washer was overloaded with large blankets or similar? Best to remove the service panel, grab a flashlight and have a look inside. If it is something that has simply fallen out of alignment it should be an easy DIY fix.
-RR
Hi I have a Hoover front loading washing machine that’s not working…. It takes the water in then when it’s due to spin or turn it just makes a really loud noise then stops and i currently have washing that is stuck inside in the water any idea what it could be?
Thanks
My washer won’t spin but still drains it’s a front load frigiderie affinity… master reset did not work we have a lot of electrical surges
We have a frigiderie affinity front loader washing machine… the washer fills with water but doesn’t spin when it comes time too… but we can set it to spin only an the water drains but still doesn’t spin?? I am unsure as to what could cause this my husband took it apart an the drum an motor both spin freely by hand. . Any tips? Thanks in advance
I live in Italy and have a 220V Whirlpool washer mod 3XWTW5705SW0 the problem is when the spin cycle is over and the drum is going to stop is stops very hard and abrupt to where it moves the machine. I am a missionary on the field and need some help
Thanks
I’m back with the Kenmore 110.92582420! Replaced the lid switch and all went well and fine till after a few weeks it decides it now don’t want to drain or spin! Did the wash cycle then quit still full of water and of course wet clothes… It would agitate through wash cycle then clank like it was going to spin as well as slurp like the pump was going to pump out, (like my description’s?) But just stop! Could barely turn agitator, (the Main one below the dogs) Then it popped and spins freely now! But the basket still won’t turn by hand! I fear iv’e broken the coupling but don’t think it was the problem… Help! And could you E-Mail me because i’m not getting updates to these posts…
Thank you for any help you can give!
Charles.
Hi, our top load washer xqb60-803clps does not spin at all, it only makes a fast clicking noise. I have opened it up but don’t see anything major wrong with it. Also nothing spins when it makes the clicking noise.
Hi Jackie,
So after the washer goes through the agitate, spin, and the drain cycle, it goes into another final cycle where it fills with water again and at this stage the problem occurs?
-RR
Hi
Thank you so much for your free advice. It’s appreciated. I have a top load Maytag about 5 years old. It agitates, spins and drains just fine until it gets to the final spin cycle. It will not spin nor drain. I have already replaced the lid switch and tried the “reset” procedure listed above with no luck What is the next step? The know that we use to set the cycles? Thank you again for your help.
Jackie
Hi Iliya,
Most likely the machine is out of balance either by worn/missing springs or something similar. If the drum or tub is not centered properly the machine will do as you are describing. Open the side panel and inspect visually to see if the drum is centered and that all the springs are in place. Sometimes one spring will fall off and the problem you have described will occur.
-RR
Hi Tim,
Yes that is exactly what happens when a lid switch has gone bad either mechanically or electrically. Order one online using Amazon (they carry thousands of appliance parts and MUCH cheaper than most everywhere else), install it and you should be back in business.
-RR
My GE washer fills with water but it will not spin or wash it acts like the door is open is this the door switch? it is a top load.
Hi there!
I have an old 10+ yo Italian I think, “Atlantic” washing machine. It works just fine when it’s empty or with very low amount of clothes in it. A bit more than let’s say a pair of jeans and it doesn’t make full spins or centrifuge but it seems like it tries to, but doesn’t have the power to do so. I checked the belts but it seems like it’s not them. I’m sorry if you can’t understand everything, English is not my native language.
Hi Molly,
Are you setting the washer on “pre-soak” mode or simply opening the lid to stop the machine from running? On some older machines, you can open the lid after it fills with water to stop the machine from running, you could use that time to let your clothes pre-soak. Then shut the lid and the machine will resume its wash cycle.
-RR
I have an older top loading Kenmore. I want to pre-soak certain items, but each time I do, the washer then drains the water and detergent, so I have to add more to actually wash. I just want it to soak, and THEN wash in the same water/detergent.
Hi Heather,
Most likely a failed lid switch. The lid switch is a safety mechanism so the washer will not spin when the lid is open. When you open the lid, there should be a small piece of plastic or metal (attached to the lid itself) that drops down into a hole on the edge of the machine where the lid closes. Turn the washer completely off and disconnect power. Then carefully put the end of a screwdriver (or similar) into this hole and you should hear the lid switch clicking. Do not push down into the hole too far, maybe only a 1/2 inch or so. If there is no click then the switch could be bad. If you hear it click then it may have failed electrically and not mechanically. A lid switch for a top load Kenmore washer will be available on Amazon for a good price.
-RR
hi , I have a Kenmore top loading washing machine that will not spin out or drain. what could be the problem and what is an easy way to fix.?
Okay thanks RR .. I’ll tackle the slipping pulley and Tub possibility first and let you know what I stumble accross. Wish me luck
~ Kevin
Kevin,
Most probable reasons for a Maytag Top Load Washing Machine to Agitate, Drain, but not Spin.
FIRST… Check and be sure nothing is stuck between the inner and outer tubs. Remove the clamp that goes on the outer tub near the top. Then pull upwards on the outer tub and it will come off. Carefully check between the washer tubs and with any luck you will hopefully find a stuck sock or similar causing your problem.
If that was not your issue then see below for a few other suggestions…
– The basket drive could be weak. Run the machine on spin with nothing in the unit and see if it spins.
– If you can hear the motor running during the spin cycle, check the drive block as it may be stripped out. If the shaft is spinning around inside the drive block then the block is stripped out and needs to be replaced.
– The Clutch/Brake may be the problem IF you can start the washer spin cycle by hand. The clutch pads may be worn down therefore the surface where the pads touch may be too smooth. This would cause the pads to not grab thus letting pressure be relieved from the brake. Also, the washers transmission may be leaking oil on the clutch which could cause it to slip.
– Motor failing.
– Bad Brake/Clutch Assy.
– Loose Belts.
– Slipping Pulley.
Also, here are all of the parts breakdown sheets you may need to identify parts and location.
Let us know what you find by doing more troubleshooting.
-RR
RR,
I have just uploaded video it’s not the best camera work but you’ll get the gist. So apparently the machine is agitating now but not consistently, however it still won’t spin. You’ll see that I attempt to push on the motor increasing the tension of the belts. Check out the link and let me know what you think. Video
Hi Kevin,
Just a few other reasons for why you are having issues with your washer… It may be possible that the belts are slipping or the pulley may be slipping? The high pitched sound could be the motor pulley spinning at high speed but the belt may not be the exact tightness to grip. If the washer will not move the drum (agitate or spin) another issue could be the transmission is at fault. Also you may want to check the clutch assembly. If your lid switch is at fault then the machine will usually not agitate or spin. However if the machine is making noise it sounds as if it is attempting to run but the problem sounds to be with the belts, pulleys, clutch, or transmission. Have you removed the panel and observed what is happening while the machine is making the noise? This will more than likely tell you visually exactly what is causing your issue. If you would like to post the noise/video on YouTube, please do and then send us the link so we can further troubleshoot. Thanks!
-RR
RR, the burning smell is still present after the belt change but only on the wash cycle and I believe when I set it to spin mode the unit just sits there. As soon as I smell the burning and hear the noise I stop the machine. As for the type of sound I would say it’s a mixture of both mechanical and high pitched. The machine is at my in-laws and I’m not there now but can record it and post for you to hear tommorow.
Hi Melissa,
If you run a full cycle on empty, will the washing machine agitate and drain? The only phase of operation is that it is not spinning? Was the smell an electrical smell or a rubber burning smell? Does the drum seem to be aligned as it was before the noise? Can you describe the noise?
-RR
Hi Kevin,
If you start the washer as normal, close the lid, the washer will just sit and make noise until it gets to the drain cycle and it will drain? If this is the case, does the washer make any type of burning smell since you have replaced the belts? Is it a mechanical noise or high pitched friction noise?
-RR
Hey RR,
I have a Maytag LAT5000ABW top loading washer with 2 belts and it will not agitate or spin but it does drain the water. There is noise and a burning smell when it’s supposed to agitate/spin. I have already replaced the belts and tension springs under the motor. The transmission drive pulley only goes in one direction freely. Help please …. :D
I have a Kenmore front loading washer model 402.49032011. During the spin cycle it made a louder noise, when I went to look it smelled a little hot and now it won’t spin. What might be the problem?
Just an update to my previous question regarding my error code TE on a Samsung front load washer. I had changed the thermistor sensor and it still didn’t work. The repair guy came today and stated the the board was dead and he ordered a new one. Should he about another week.
Hi G,
Do you have a model number for us? This will help us to pinpoint your exact issue.
If your Kenmore 800 washer is working properly in all other aspects (besides not spinning out all the water at the end of the cycle) then more than likely it is one part that is failing.
The Sensor Switch is most likely the part that has failed on your washer. When this sensor fails, the washer will never fully get all the water out of your clothing. This switch is located in the control panel. This part is made by Whirlpool but will work with Kenmore. The part is Whirlpool Part # W10292584 Sensor Switch. As for the piece of rusted metal that you found in the tub, is this happening frequently or was it a one time thing? Size? Shape? Any other issues with the washer such as overfilling or agitating as the water is filling the tub?
-RR
We have a Kenmore 800 Series washing machine that recently is not spinning all the water out of the clothes. When the tub is empty, we find a small piece of rusted metal in the tub. What is failing? Thanks.
Hi Crystal,
We would recommend removing the front panel and letting the machine run a short cycle and observe what is taking place. Use caution when doing this. Is the transmission pulley turning? How about the clutch?
These are 4 things MAY be your issue. Depending on the age of your washing machine, it may make more sense to simply replace it. Once you troubleshoot your washer and find the parts you need, do the math to see if it is worth fixing yourself, calling a GE technician, or replacing the washer with a new one.
GE top load washing machine will agitate but no spin or drain:
1. Test the lid switch with a multimeter to be SURE it is working. Replace lid switch if needed.
2. The tube to the water level sensor switch may be clogged. If this is the case the washer cannot go into spin cycle because the sensor thinks there is still water in the drum. Look into the tube and blow through it to remove the clog.
3. Drain pump could have failed or is clogged. Remove clog or replace drain pump.
4. The clutch may be failing. Remove and replace the clutch assembly.
Parts for your GE washer are here.
-RR
I have a GE Washer model WDSR2080DSWW that will not drain or spin. It agitates fine but when it gets to the drain/spin cycle it does nothing except you can hear the timer running or whatever that sound is that moves the knob around the cycles and the knob will go around through the cycle but doesn’t drain or spin. I had a very heavy blanket and pillow in it so we took them out and tried it again but it didn’t help. We tried leaving the lid up when it was filling with water because it will usually drain out by itself if the lid is left open too long but it wouldn’t drain out. Any ideas about what’s wrong?
Hi Karen,
Have you ran the washer with different wash cycle modes? What happens during the wash cycle when it does not agitate? Does it hum, buzz, make sound? Do you smell a burning or electrical smell?
The problem with your washing machine that will not agitate but WILL spin and drain could be the following… The agitation (wash) cycle cannot start until the water level switch is triggered and tells the timer that it is full and can proceed. See if you can move the drain hose out of the stand pipe just enough to increase the air gap.
-RR
My top loading Frigidaire washer dryer combo model will not agitate in the initial cycle but will drain and the spin cycle at the end works. The washer is a couple of years old now. Please help.
Hi Scott,
A clicking noise with “no spin” or agitation including a rubber or electrical smell would most likely indicate a faulty motor coupler. A burning smell could also indicate a failed drive belt or motor. We would need the model number to know exactly.
We would suggest to remove the machine from power. Slide the unit out and remove the service panel and have a look inside. More than likely you will see a very obvious problem. The part that you find that has failed can most likely be ordered online and you should be up and running again in no time.
If you do not see any issues visually, please get back to us with your model number and we will troubleshoot further.
-RR
Hi,
I have a 5 year old front load whirlpool and the other day the machine stopped spinning. So i thought the load was to uneven so i changed the load and then it worked for about 4 more loads. the last load i put in it would spin. I have a burning motor smell and the water did not leave the drum. I took all the cloths out and tried it but it still won’t spin or do anything. I hear a click some where inside the washing machine but do not now where to start to look. The washing machine also smells like a motor burning. Can you help??? Can not afford a new washer right now.
Thank
scott
Ged,
It could be a multitude of things meaning a control board problem or faulty sensors/wiring. Have you taken the machine apart and inspected the wiring and mechanical aspects of the washer?
-RR
Hi Megan,
Can you provide us with the model number of your Whirlpool washer? When you shut the lid, you hear a click, the light flashes, and the tub turns or makes a noise but does not turn? Have you observed what happens if you let the washer try to run a full cycle?
-RR
My top load whirlpool washer will not engage the lid lock to start any cycle. It clicks, the indicator light flashes and the agitator makes a whirring noise. I attempted the Master Reset but it did not work. The washer came with my house when I bought it and there was no manual please help.
Hi thanks for fast response
No the final spin cycle with no load wasn’t done just skips to end with no error code
The washer completes all parts of the cycle intermediate spins etc no error codes
The timer says it has 9 min left this seems to last for nearly 15 min slow spin and drain then goes to 6 min left then program just ends
Flashes open door no fast spin carried out the machine is just 3 years old
Hi and thx for getting back to me so fast. I have inspected all the wiring and I can’t find anything wrong. The code hasn’t cleared and the washer still won’t run. I tried leaving it unplugged overnight. Still does the same thing. Its only 4 days out of warrant and I am still waiting to hear from samsung.
Hi Chris,
You did the correct thing by inspecting and replacing the temperature sensor after getting the TE error code. Since you have replaced the sensor, is the washing machine working properly now besides the error code being displayed? The machine may be sensing something is wrong with the sensor or the sensors connections. You stated you did not see any damaged or disconnected wires. We would recommend looking at all wiring harnesses and connections on the back of the control board and under the tub. We have seen issues with the orange and white wires (or possibly yellow) chaffing under the tub and corroding at the connections. If the wire connections under the tub are rusty, you may want to replace the connectors or wire brush the rust off so they can make a good connection. If the sensor is working properly and the wires are all connected, the constant error code displaying should be able to be cleared by removing power from the machine for a few minutes.
-RR
Hi Ged,
How old is your washing machine? Are you getting an error code? Have you tried removing power from the machine for a few minutes to try a reset? Try that and then run a quick load with no clothing to see what happens and if an error code appears. If you have to add extra heavy items to force your front load washer to go into final spin mode… The transmission may be beginning to fail. This however may not be your specific issue as most washers (with similar problems) will not go into the final spin with a small load, not the other way around.
-RR
I have a front load Samsung washer model WF397. The error code TE came up and I read everywhere that the temperature sensor went. I bought the part and replaced it myself. Drained the washer and the code still will not clear. I’ve taken the washer apart and haven’t seen any dreaded cut or corroded wires as some others have posted.
Can anyone help me out as to why the error code wont clear??
Thx in advance
My whirlpool front load washing machine model wfs1073dd will only do the final spin function with a heavy load towels etc
If the load is normal it skips the final spin cycle leaving clothes dripping wet any ideas????
Pump is clean and free
Hi Sue,
First of all if you had a professional technician come out and diagnose your washer and the part he diagnosed to replace was wrong, they should come back out for free. Pay for the new part they diagnose the second time but refuse to pay the labor charges. Have you called them and are they aware they did not properly troubleshoot your washer?
Is the washer displaying an Error Code?
Either way… There may be an issue with the timer/control board. It does not seem to us that anything mechanical could make the washer keep refilling with water. There may be a bad part of the control board that repeats itself. There are “Weight sensors” that figure out how much water to add after the clothing is added. It is possible there is a malfunction with the sensors. They are not adjustable so if there is an issue with them, they need to be replaced.
-RR
Hi I have a Samsung top load washer model wa5471 2 yrs old
Washer would not spin the finally spin water drains out then about 9 min
Left tries to spin then refills with water ….called repairman told me plate clutch /assembly
$374 part was put in … First 2 loads worked great then same problem came back !
So mad could blow the machine up !
Like i said, I knew the switch was bad because it fell apart in my hand as i was removing it!
And happily doing laundry now, Had to wait 4 days for part… Thanks guy’s and gals.
C.
Hi Paula,
What type of problems are you having with your Samsung front loader?
To answer your question… If the OdoBan mixture is concentrated, it may bubble up and cause an issue. Dilute the mixture if it is concentrated to avoid this. You should also clean out the dispenser tray every month to avoid mold growth. It should pop out from the back and you can soak the complete tray in hot water in your sink. Here is our page that describes How To Clean An HE Washer. We actually use OdoBan to disinfect our washer every month. We dilute our concentrated mixture first and pour it inside the tub and set it on max hot water.
-RR
Hi Dianne,
Can you please provide us with a model number? There could be nearly 20 different reasons for the issue you have described. For us to narrow it down we need to know the exact model number. The model number should be in the area where the door opens and closes.
-RR
Hi Vverlin Kelly,
The DC error code you are getting indicates a leveling issue. This issue is more than likely why your washer is not working as designed. What exactly does the DC error code mean? DC error on your Samsung washer means the load is unbalanced. You will need to make sure your washer is sitting level on your floor. If you have a level, lay it on top of the washer and adjust the feet or legs as necessary. If the floor is warped you can use a piece of wood or similar to help get the washing machine on a perfectly level surface. Another issue could be a faulty hall sensor. If the hall sensor is bad, then usually you will get the DC error code even if the washer is level. If the washer is level and the hall sensor is working properly, then you probably will need new suspension rods. The rods can wear out and cause the tub to bounce which in turn causes the unbalanced load issue.
-RR
I have 2 1/2 year old Samsung top load washer. Works well until the rinse cycle, it will rinse but gets to spin then vibrates and adds minutes to start rinse cycle over, no standing water but clothes are soaking wet. It does it all the time. Sometimes it shows DC code but cloths are evenly distributed. Model #wa400pjhdwr/aa. Are there any help 4 same, please anything to fix the problem is greatly appreciated.
Hello,
I have a Samsung HE front load washer. It has been going through the wash cycle fine but when it gets to the drain/spin cycle it resets the time and starts over. I’m not getting any error messages its just restarting the time. Its a never ending load of laundry, lol! Do you have any ideas on how to fix it?
Thank you!
Just a quick question….I am starting to have problems with my front loader Samsung. Recently I have been putting OdoBan Laundry Disinfectant in the Bleach compartment, as it eliminates the ugly odors with the front-loaders. Could this cause problems with my washer? Thank you!!
Paula
Hi James,
This is a fairly common issue. There is no switch in the area, just the magnet which tells the computer that the door is closed. Are you sure the magnet is installed properly? Do you still get the DE error code even with the new magnet installed?
-RR
Hi Tom,
Have you carefully inspected the wiring harness for the motor? Check for loose wiring or a problem with the harness itself. Have you tried running a “quick test mode” to test the motor?
-RR
So, While I await a response, I took the motor apart and cleaned the stator and the rotor.
I re assembled everything and got the same results.
I might add that I can spin it freely by hand with no power.
In addition to dismantling the motor, I took the control board assembly off and re-jacked the connectors.
This did nothing either.
Hello,
Perhaps you can help.
I’ve read mos all the problems people are having and mine is not that different.
I have a Samsung Front loader M# WF405ATPAWR/A2
S# Y6YC5AED506043v
In a normal cycle or quick wash It fills with water, then trys to spin but it just jerks a little clockwise then the same backwards. It does this severtimes then after about five minutes (sitting on the 19 minute cycle time) it starts counting down again then repeats the attempt to spin the drum. Ultimately, it gives up with a 3E code.
I’ve tried the reset options you’ve mentioned to no avail.
I’ve also pulled my sopping wet clothes out and just tried a rinse spin option, same results.
Any thoughts before I push it off a cliff?
Thanks
Tom
Hi Pal, my LG Fuzzy Logic top loader is giving a DE error, the magnet was missing, I replaced it, but am still having the fault. Is there a reset pattern that I need to perform, eg opening and closing the lid a few times to reset the program?
Please could you help.
Regards,
James
Julie,
Yes try the reset procedure and then see if the issue is resolved.
-RR
I have a whirlpool front load washer that is only 3 years old. idon’t have the serial number with me, but I just recently moved my washer to my new home and I know that it’s probablly nothing serious.but I can’t figure out what the flashing light is saying the error code is. It’s not digital but it flashes 6 times and pauses then flashes once. The water fills and it spins a few times but then stops and starts flashing and beeping. Should I try resetting it first?
My Amana front load washer model NFW7200TW stops at the rinse cycle. I’ve tried different wash cycles and they all stop at the rinse. The machine does spin and does drain depending which cycle it’s on. I usually use the quick wash cycle but it stops at the 28 minute point and the cloths are still wet. Tried hand wash cycle and it managed to spin the water out so I could put them in the dryer.
Hi Nick,
If it is not a direct drive style washer then yes most likely it is a frayed or broken belt. We would suggest to open the service panel and take a peek inside to be sure it is the belt before you order a new one. Be aware that direct drive washers do not use a belt. Also… for us to know exactly what your issue may be, we would need your washers model number for us to properly troubleshoot.
-RR
I have a GE HE front load washer. When the it hits any of the spin cycles, it makes the noise as if it’s spinning but the drum doesn’t move. It is draining the water. I can only assume it is a belt, does this sound correct?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Nick
Hi Pauline,
Check the machines filter and see if it is blocked. Usually if it cannot drain, it will not be able to spin. The filter should be located at the bottom of the front of the machine. Check this first and if the filter needs cleaned, clean it out. Next run a short wash cycle and see if this has fixed the issue. The burning smell may be the machines motor or pump overheating.
-RR
The drum in my washing machine will not turn. There was a smell of burning and it is a Candy Aquaviva 1300 model washer.
Charles,
You are pinning the lid switch or the controls? Either way, the problem you are describing sounds to us like a bad lid switch. The washer is designed to fill and wash with the lid open but will not spin for safety reasons. If the lid switch is bad (in the normally “open” position) it will fill, wash, but will not spin or drain. We would suggest ordering a new lid switch online. Let us know and if this is not your problem and we will help you troubleshoot further.
-RR
I have a Kenmore top load washer. It was used when i got it and i had to pin the switch. Now it will fill and wash but will not spin out, It was pumping out but now it won’t do that either… The top is off and the switch is out and in several pieces! (think i need a new one). But i’m wondering if i should check the pump while the front is off the washer? I’m working in very limited space and have a bad back. Don’t want to have to re do all this! model no.110. 92582420.
Tequawna,
What brand and model number is your washer? Is the washer getting electrical power?
-RR
Lisa,
We are very happy to hear that you got your washer running! Great job!
-RR
Thank you for all of your assistance. Last night I followed all of the electrical for both the motor and control board double checking everything, including connections. This required some disassembly of things but it was the right thing to do, as luck would have it, there was one loose connection in the control board that was still connected but must have loosened when I initially reassembled the everything. Once i pushed the connection tight, everything worked like a charm and I have executed heavy loads of towels as well as clothing. I am one happy DIYer!!!
Hi my washer stopped on the spin cycle and never spinned to get the water out and as i turned the knob no controls worked but the rinse cycle then just stopped all together! What could be wrong with it???
I FINALLY got a 3E error on the spin cycle. I am going to check the hall sensors for tight connections and will advise.
The machine drains fine. When I had it on rinse and spin, the machine drained. I can hear the motor working and see the rotor start to spin in the back but it is almost as if the rotor cover is loose but it isn’t. When it begins to spin, the rotor cover seems to wiggle ever so slightly but the nut is tightened as tightly as it can be. It spins freely when off both directions but when it is on trying to spin it is as if something is stopping it (like if i stuck a screwdriver through the rotor openings to prevent it from rotating) then it reverses and does the same thing in the opposite direction. I am completely baffled.
Lisa,
The reason we asked to run a full cycle was to see if the washer will properly drain out the water even though the drum won’t spin. If it drains the water, then there may be issues with part of the motor assembly and its components. Possibly the Stator or Rotor Assembly. If the machine does not drain, then other factors exist.
-RR
Ok….I tried to run a load and the washer drum won’t even spin while water enters at the beginning of the cycle. it just keeps trying to rotate, moving an inch or so, then reversing and doing the same thing. Same as when I tried the rinse cycle. It just keeps starting the rotation and changing directions after it has moved an inch. I didn’t let it keep running since it was pointless and I didn’t want to do any damage to anything but it doesn’t stop or give me an error message. I am still at a loss. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
I can hear motor run both directions. It will try to spin one direction, moves about an inch and then reverses direction, moves about an inch and reverses direction and just keeps repeating this until I pause it, turn the power off, and unplug it. I have not run an entire cycle because I didn’t want to start the machine and have it not work which is why I thought it best to test it in the rinse/spin cycle. I can try a short full cycle and get back to you.
Lisa,
When the washing machine is trying to turn the drum, do you hear the motor working at all? Does it start, then you hear a “click” and the motor noise stops? Do you hear the motor running, but the drum is not moving as it should? What happens if you let the washer go through a complete cycle? Does it finish the cycle? Please give us as many details as possible so we may troubleshoot your issue further. Thanks.
-RR
No resistance, moves freely both directions. I can also move the rotor both direction in back both directions.
Hi Lisa,
We see what may be happening here… With the washer off and empty, open the door and reach in and turn the inner drum by hand back and forth. Does the drum move easily or do you feel some resistance?
-RR
I have a samsung WF328aaw/xaa that I just recently replaced the back half of tub (bearing failure) and spider arm support (cracking). It’s all put back together now and I to test, I tried the rinse and spin cycle. The water fills correctly and there are no leaks. When it tries to spin, however, it seems the rotor tries to spin but only moves about an inch, it clicks, and then tries to reverse directions but only moves about an inch. There is no error code and it just keeps doing this until I pause and unplug it. I have taken it apart and made sure all parts are secured and put together properly (I have done this twice now) but the same thing happens each time I reassemble. Do I not have it on correctly or what am I missing to get this to work? I can’t spend any more on this machine, and only kept it because I did the work myself and really liked how the machine cleaned up until it blew the bearings. I only bought the machine about 4 years ago. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Sabastin,
Can you tell us exactly what happens when you shut the door and set the washer to “wash”? Is it completely dead OR makes a sound but won’t spin OR spins but doesn’t finish the cycle?
-RR
I have Maytag Laundry (Stacked) with Gas dryer, bought during 2008. Was working good for so long. Very recently, when I go to switch the load of cloths to the dryer, washer would have stopped.
Checked with small load and no load also, doesn’t work. Can any appliance expert help me please.
Gabe,
Does the washer motor spin or make any kind of noise at all in spin mode? If not, and it is an older model washer, we would say the timer is at fault. If you hear the motor making a noise like it is trying to run when in spin mode, then check the motor coupling, drive belt, and pulleys for any obvious visual signs of wear.
-RR
I have a GE washer and it works but stopped spinning. It agitates, drains… but does spin. I have checked the hoses, lid and power supply. Is there anything else I can check?
Thank you, I will check the hose in the back of the washer, and I will let the next repair person know about the wires.
Thanks
Hi Amanda,
Your lid switch is working if you held it down and you can hear the motor getting power. So the next 2 things that could be wrong is the motor coupling or the drive belt. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission assembly. This coupling is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded. If it is damaged or worn, the motor will run but the tub will not spin. If the drive belt is broken or not tight, it will be loose on the pulleys and the washer won’t spin properly. Have a look in the washer to see if these parts are worn and replace if needed.
-RR
Hi Francine,
If your washer WAS working properly before, then something is preventing the washer from draining. A kinked or bent drain hose or the drain in the wall may be too slow to drain out the water. If the drain is slow it may prevent the washer from draining properly. As for the wiring that was done in the past, your best bet will be to call a service company and tell them your situation. Tell them it was wired by someone in the past and it may be incorrectly wired. Make sure they agree to troubleshoot the problem before they come out. For the sake of safety, if your washer has a burning smell, do not use it until a professional has checked it to be sure it is safe to use.
-RR
Hi, I have a whirlpool front load washer, it will not drain or spin, I took the panel off on the front of the washer and drain the water and cleaned out the tray. I put everything back and started the washer again and this time it washed but did not drain. I had a repair guy from Sears come out and he took the top off and would not fix it because the owner before me worked on it. The wires were taped up and you could smell it burning, (I think the wires was crossed up, but I’m not a repair person) What can I do, I can’t get my money back and the dryer works great (knock on wood). Please help.
My washer sounds like it is spinning but it is not, the clothes are still soggy after the spin cycle. I held down the lever to watch and the motor is working but tub is not moving at all. I take my hand and give the tub a spin and it starts working like it is supposed to.
Dear M,
If you have tested the lid switch and it is working properly, the next item that is MOST LIKELY to fail is the Water Inlet Valve. You can test it and determine if you need to replace. Your washer has a cold water rinse and if it can’t fill with cold water it will just sit waiting for the cold water to enter which never happens. Run a test wash on COLD water only. If there is cold water supplied during parts of the wash cycle then the valve is not the problem. If the valve is good and working properly, the next part to replace would be the Main Control Board. The control board will usually cost around $150 dollars so make sure that a faulty board is really the problem before ordering one.
-RR
I have a Samsung Front load WF203ANS it stops mid cycle full of water. wont drain. I have replace the drain pump but it still no go.
if i run on rinse and spin for 21 min cycle. it works until 11 min left the wont do anything. I checked the door it locked. also if i get it to drian it will not drain completly.
Hi Clare,
The most common reason we have seen for a washer not draining is a sock or similar stuck in the drain pump. You may need to examine the pump for an obstruction. When the unit “doesn’t drain” is the washer still 100% full of water or does it appear that SOME of the water has drained?
-RR
Jess,
What brand and model is your washing machine? Also, have you tried the reset method at the top of this page? To answer your question, the pump, once debris has been removed, will work with no issue. We would recommend trying the reset of your washer once you are sure there are no other issues such as items clogging the pump.
-RR
Hi Pranav,
If the washer is new we would suggest calling the company that sold it to you and trying to get some warranty work done.
However… The issue you have explained sounds to us like a sensor is at fault. It may also be possible that the drum is out of balance and has activated the imbalance detection (overload).
You can also try this manual reset that works for most LG brand washing machines….
1 – Unplug the washer’s electrical cord.
2 – Open the door of the washer and spin the unit’s basket by placing your hands on the inside of the machine and spinning it 360 degrees.
3 – Wait 60 seconds to allow any activity within the machine to halt.
4 – Plug the washer’s electrical cord back into the outlet.
5 – Try a load of laundry to determine whether this simple but usually effective manual reset has fixed the problem.
-RR
Hi I have a LG F8091MDL2 front loading washing machine. The problem is when I turn on the machine and select any option like spin, on all categories: cotton, delicate, easy care etc, the machine starts spinning but doesn’t spin fast. It shows an overload message even if there is no clothes in it and stops spinning. This is a new washing machine I bought. Can u help me with this? Can u tell me the reset procedure for this or any solution for this problem?
Thanks
Pranav
I have the same problem as Andrew:
My washing machine has stopped working on any cycle. Water is coming in but it is not draining nor is the drum spinning. Pump system was cleaned out and out came a one sock, a handkerchief and some dirt. However, the washing machine still does not work. Can the pump system cause such a defect if there has been debris in the pump system?
Thanks in advance!
I have a Maytag Atlantis top loader washing machine and goes through the whole cycle but won’t drain the water.
Elaine,
Could be a worn out belt, pulley, capacitor, motor…etc.
-RR
My washing machine will agitate, but sometimes it spins. I have to give it several spins after it stops, but sometimes it catches on to spin and sometimes I have to turn it with my hand to give it a start. Sometimes it does a regular spin and sometimes its slow.
Mary,
Is the machine stopping during the cycle or is the door on your Samsung front loading washing machine not opening up at the end of the wash cycle?
Most front load washers have a small door located near the base. The door can be opened with a flat blade screwdriver. Inside the small door you should find an emergency pull release for the machine door.
Have you tried unplugging the machine for an hour or so? Once an hour is up, plug it back in and put it on the rinse cycle and let it run a wash cycle until it has finished, then try the door. If it still will not open then wait a few minutes, switch it back on to power it up and then try the door.
-RR
Urv,
Most likely the door/lid switch. Do you have a multimeter to test it? Also could be a broken belt or an issue with the motor.
-RR
Kenmore front load washer model 110.46462501 will not spin at all on any cycle, it will drain though.
Please help.
Kindly help i have a samsung washing machine front loader. After a period of quick wash, the door refuse to open. This is a machine have been using for over 3yrs now working perfectly.
I will very much appreciate if i can get a solution to this.
Thanks
Hi Jason,
Your machine is probably imbalanced. Meaning overloaded and or to many heavier items on one side. Simply even out the weight by moving the clothes around to create a “balanced load”. If this does not fix the issue, your agitator may be faulty and or a spring may have detached from the bottom.
-RR
Hi Mike,
If the final spin cycle is a higher spin speed then it may be a two speed motor and one of the start capacitors is going bad. It could also be that one of the windings on the motor is going out. Also, possibly a loose pulley, incorrectly installed lid switch, transmission, gears, etc.
-RR
Hi Kurt,
For the problem you have described, you have done exactly as you should have in checking the drain pump and the drain hose. The issues you have described sounds like the drain pump is at fault. If there is nothing obstructing the pump or the drain hose, it may be best to replace the drain pump or buy a multimeter and test it yourself. The drain pump for your washer is around $50 dollars and a multimeter is around $25 to $50 dollars. If you purchase a multimeter and then find that the pump is bad you will be out around $75 to $100 dollars but you will have a meter to use for future troubleshooting. We would suggest buying a meter and testing the drain pump to be totally sure.
-RR
Hi Tanya,
Sounds like the washer may have a worn out belt or motor issue. Safely remove the panel and look inside to see if there are obvious signs of malfunction. A belt is a cheap fix and easy to fix yourself.
-RR
Hi Annie,
Safely unplug from power and remove the service panel. Look inside of the machine to see if there are any obvious signs of malfunction. A belt or pulley may have worn or become loose causing your problem.
-RR
Michelle,
Have you tested the lid switch? A faulty lid switch is the most common reason for no-spin with top loading washing machines.
-RR
Well, I have a top load general motor washer (I know bad choice! ) It stopped agitating and spinning a few months back. I found the ‘reset’ your motor help and it work’s. Now it has done it again and the reset failed. Any help for me? It is mod# word6100g1wt I will never ever ever purchase a general electric again! This is the 4th time it has broken and it is 3 yrs old
I have a beko wm6123w washing machine and it made a very loud noise all through the spin cycle yesterday, gone to use it today and it does nothing other than lights work and water enters drum on beginning of a cycle but no movement of drum or anything! Turning the empty drum by hand is absolutely fine and no different to normal and belt in intact. Is this a cheap fix?
I have a GE top load washing machine and had been using it all day and in my last load, of course, thw machine will not agitate or spin. It fills and drains ni problem. When it is suppose to be washing and spinning it makes a “humming” noise and smells of something burning. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Hello we have a Samsung top loader WA5451ANW/XAA02 Yesterday the washer “stuck” in the middle of a wash cycle and failed to drain/spin to the finish. We emptied the dripping wet clothes and attempted to restart the cycle. The door lock engaged but nothing happened after that. Normally, there is a sound like a motor/pump starting immediately after the door locks and a smallish amount of water is pushed out of the drain hose into the tub. This time, nothing after the door lock, not even noises. Also, no error codes!
First, I found the auxilliary drain hose in the back and drained the tub with a shop vac. So at least the water was out of the washer!
I put it into Service Mode and water fill worked and the Quick Spin Mode ramped all the way up to the max 1100 rpm. Nothing when I tried the drain mode. I did the following
Check pump filter is clear and there are no obstructions
Check the drain hose for obstruction
Check the drain hose is not kinked
Check the drain pump filter and clean if required
Check the air chamber and pressure sensor hose
and no dice. I unplugged and removed the drain pump but I don’t have a tester to see if it requires replacement and I am not sure what else to do (there was water in parts where it seemed like there should not have been). After I removed it, I ran a wash cycle with the drain pump unhooked and after the door locked, it did sound as if it was moving toward the next steps (I had unhooked the fill hoses so no water ran into the tub). Any ideas???
I have a 7 year old kenmore 700 series top load washer- it runs through the normal wash cycle, but will not do the final spin for that setting- it will drain to prepare for the final spin, but then just sits there and ultimately times off. If I catch it during the final spin cycle, I can get it to work by rotating the drum a time or two. It also seems to work good for a few days too if I unplug it for a couple minutes (will run through all cycles perfectly including final spin), but it then again starts skipping the final spin. I replaced the coupler and lid switch last week- worked good for a few days, but now again skipping the final spin- any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Samsung top load washer when on spin cycle bumps and bangs until it stops. Right about the time it starts to speed up.
Hi Charles,
Sounds like the LID SWITCH. If the washer will fill with water and then stop, the machine thinks the lid is open so it will not proceed to the next phase which would be to agitate. The lid switch is probably bad and stuck in the OPEN position. You will need to remove and replace the lid switch. If after replacing the lid switch the same problem is happening, the next part to replace would be the CYCLE SELECTOR SWITCH/KNOB.
-RR
Hi Jim,
The imbalance may be caused by the machine not being completely level. This can be from one or more of the washer legs not being properly adjusted. If you have a level, lay it on top of the washer to be sure it is perfectly level. If not, thread the appropriate leg up or down to get the machine level again. If it is level your other problem could be a broken or missing suspension spring. On the bottom of the tub, there are multiple springs holding the tub in the center position. Remove the panel to gain access and check to be sure the springs are in place. Here is a video to show how to take the washing machine apart to access the suspension springs.
-RR
Hi, I have a Maytag Washer and just bought a Timer for it. I watched a tutorial and was able to change it myself but I have the same results as before. It will fill up with water for rinse ‘only’ it wont’ wash nor spin cycle. What could be my issue? -THanks
I have an old Whirlpool Model # LSQ8243HQ0 Ultimate Care 2, Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus Top Loading Washer – does this have out of balance sensor? We have had to reset the machine several times by unplugging and then opening the lid quickly to get the washer to completely spin and drain the load. Is there a part that can be replaced that will help with this washer constantly getting an out of balance fault? It seems to be super sensitive when the load is not really that bad out of balance? When it gets out of balance it seems to not complete the fastest final spin to completely dry the load. It will spin and drain completely on smaller loads, but seems to have trouble completely draining/spinning on larger heavier loads. If clutch ends up being fine – what else could it be?
Hi Cami,
Does this happen every time you wash clothing? Have you tried running the machine completely empty? Do you have a model number for us to further research?
If your washer will go through the wash cycle, will not spin, still makes noise, and will not advance until you manually advance to spin…
We would suspect a bad contact in your timer or faulty control board. We would suggest to remove and replace the timer or control board.
-RR
Hi Ceica,
When a top load washer only agitates and will not spin, there could be a few different things that are causing the issue…
You may have something stuck in between the inner wash basket and the outer tub. Look for a something that may be lodged in the wash basket. At times a sock or small washcloth gets jammed in between the inner wash basket and the outer tub. The machine will usually still agitate and wash but will not spin. If there is nothing jammed in between the inner basket and outer tub, you may have a transmission issue…
There is a one way lower spin bearing that may have failed and is locking the transmission when it tries to spin. Try to turn the transmission by hand and see if it is difficult to turn and or makes a clicking noise. In one direction it should NOT turn at all and the other it should turn nice and smooth without any clicking noise. If your washer is below 5 years old, it is possible the transmission may still be under warranty if the transmission turns out to be the issue…
Here is some info on the parts that are most likely to fail on your Frigidaire washer with the NO SPIN issue.
-RR
Hello. I have a top load that wont drain or spin. Its obly agitates and washes. My husband replace the drain pump with a brand new one today and we still have the same problem. Any ideas it is a Frigidaire model # GLWS1649AS1 serial # XC22316528
I have a GE top load washer. It goes through the entire cycle, but will not drain and spin. It makes the noise but won’t spin. I have to then cancel the cycle and then manually go to just drain/spin cycle and it will then spin and drain. Ever hear of this?
Hi Katie,
Is there any type of clicking noise once it tries to go into spin mode?
It is possible the machine was heavily overloaded and/or the spin drive could be weak… Try to run a cycle with no clothing in the unit. Does the washer go into spin mode?
-RR
I have a whirlpool ultimate care 2 imperial series model lsn10000j01
Seriel num CL 3138915 type 111 and it stopped mid cycle after agitation but no further actions after agitation.. No draining.. No spinning.. Checked hose.. All clear.. Reset several times..nothing.. No noise or anything after it agitates and then it just sits quiet . This comes at a REALLY BAD TIME… Fours kids.. Single mom and school starts tomorrow.. Car broke down and no laundry mat in walking distance so I HAVE to DIY this and be super mom. Thank you so much!!!
Super useful!! Followed the steps exactly… Step 1. Reset; my machine still didn’t work. Step 2- Check lid switch *ding ding ding* took it out, went to appliance store 39 dollars later finished my load of laundry that was stuck. Don’t panic people research online. And try before buying a new washer! 38 dollars to 500-800 dollars. Big difference. Thank you! thank you! Big hug. By the way I’m a 28 year old girl. I did it all myself. Ladies your men too busy or can’t ..don’t hesitate to try yourself.
Hi Nigel,
Run a wash cycle with the machine empty. Once it has ran for a few minutes, cancel it and turn the controls to spin. Does it pump the water out? Let us know as this step will assist us with knowing where the problem may be.
-RR
Hi RR
My Bosch Maxx has stopped spinning this morning. There was a fairly substantial load in there (bedding etc). Over the last week or so there has been a very slight “scraping” sound when spinning but today it’s completely stopped. The machine is at least 8 years old.
What do you think?
Hi Tracy,
So the only problem you are having is MANUALLY having to press the button to move it into RINSE mode? What happens when it is done with the washing cycle? Does it buzz, click, anything?
-RR
Hi Beth,
Your Whirlpool washer may have one of these faults… (Perform all of these checks safely, find your washing machine service manual and unplug the machine when performing checks)
1. If it will not agitate or drain when it is set to spin, you may have something jammed in the pump. To check this you will need to remove the pump. Check internal pump and get the obstruction out if that is the issue.
2. The motor coupling may be the problem. You will need to disassemble the machine and visually inspect.
3. If the washer has a wire harness on the motor, there could be a bad connection were it plugs into the motor. This would make it work sometimes and other times not work properly.
-RR
I have a Whirlpool- Auto Load Sensing w/ triple spray top load washer. Its 3.5 years old, I share it with others in my house and one of them said it was not going into the spin cycle. I checked it out but had no prob. One day it did it again and all the washer did was humm when it got to the spin cycle and it wont drain. It does it on all types of cycles when it gets to that part. Any help you can give me would be great.
Hi I have a front loader. It goes through the washing cycle but won’t continue to the rinse cycle. We have to push the button in order for it to rinse. This only happens in the summer time. In the winter months it works fine..Kenmore model..110. 47512604. Ser…hlw4164554. Type..832
About 4 months.
Hi Jean,
We would suggest unplugging the machine and removing the panel. Check to see if the belt or pulley is at fault. If the machine is making noise, then that tells us the motor is working but the connection between it and the agitator is at fault.
-RR
My sister has a 5 year old Whirlpool top loading washer. It fills with water, makes a noise, but won’t agitate. When she manually turned on the spin cycle, the water just drained out of the washer. The drum didn’t spin. She also pushed the lid button so she could keep the lid opened to see if the drum would spin. That’s how she knew the drum wouldn’t spin. Any ideas about what is going on would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
Hi Ben,
The first thing a washer will do is go into the wash cycle. This is also called Agitating. Is the washer agitating? If so, after it is finished agitating the clothes, does it try to go into the spin mode and fails? Or will the machine not work properly from the moment you try to wash clothes? Let us know and we will further assist.
While we wait for your response, press and hold the start button in for several seconds. This will reset the control board and may possibly fix your problem if it is NOT a mechanical issue. Once you reset it, start a new wash cycle and see how it goes from there.
-RR
Hi there,
My Beko 5KG A+A Class 1000 rpm has stopped spinning and I’ve tried various of techniques to fix it including the ‘Off at the Wall for 1 min and open/close door 6 times within 12 seconds’ however due to me not being too savvy with washing machines and plumbing in general I can not get my machine to spin.
I did notice that there was a grinding sound comming from the machine before, however wouldn’t know where to look for such places to try and fix the problem. There was a foriegn object in the front drainaway however (I imagine) this wouldn’t have been the issue?
Could you please help and let me know how to fix my machine,
Kind Regards.
BW
Hi Jen,
The machine is not spinning AND the timer is not functioning properly? Can you provide us with a model number so we can research further?
-RR
Hi Renu,
A top loading washer that ONLY agitates in only one direction may have a worn out plastic agitator, a failed shaft on the transmission output, or the transmission has a failed gear inside. The transmission shaft is normally splined and the center of the plastic agitator will have a matching spline to ensure a tight fit. If any of these items are worn out, the problem you are having may occur. You will need to take the agitator out and inspect it and the transmission shaft. If these are ok then the transmission is the most likely the problem. We would suggest calling a repair person or buying a new washer if the transmission is shot.
-RR
my frigidaire frontload washer is acting up when it gets to 6 minuites it take forever to get off to the next number and now it is not catching the spin mode anything i can do
my samsung semi automatic top loader washing machine rotates in one direction in wash cycle. how to restore the to and fro motion? drain and spin is working perfect.
Hi Franko,
Can you tell us if the lights on the panel are flashing when the timer is clicking and then stops?
-RR
Hi Bigray,
The first thing we must ask is… Has this been a problem from the beginning or has this issue recently started?
-RR
Sue,
Can you provide us with a Model # of your Kenmore washer?
-RR
Michelle,
Can you please let us know the age of your machine?
-RR
It’s Archie not Jackie. :) I was able to sort it out, thanks to your forum/blog – it gave me the confidence to open the rear panel of my washer. I checked the drain hose and found my daughter’s sock stuck in it. Not sure how it wiggled its way from the main basin into the drain holes then to the hose. Now it’s running as good as new. Thanks. Sometimes we take things for granted, never really realised how important my washer is until it played up. Won’t hurt to give it a wipe down clean once in awhile, just so it behaves itself.
Hi Jackie,
We have to ask this before anything… Are you using an HE washing detergent?
This error code indicates that excessive detergent suds occurred during the cycle.
If a “Sud” or “Sd” error code is displayed, or if you can see excessive suds in the window:
There are too many suds in the washing machine. The washer will not be able to spin out water with the excess suds. When “Sud” or “Sd” is displayed, the washer automatically extends the rinse time to remove the excess suds.
-RR
I have a 7yo S800 Smeg Top Loader, it has been working fine until today. It won’t drain and spin at last cycle and simply stops while water is still in it. What could be wrong and how do I go about DYI fixing it. Thanks.
Hi I have an Indesit washing machine. On no load (no clothing) the machine goes through the whole cycle and hot washes, drains and spins perfectly. When I put a load in it, the timer switch clicks and turns then stops and nothing happens. (I am not overloading it) Any ideas. Thanks in advance.
I have a samsung front load washer wf209anw. I have fixed every problem that has occurred since 2010 except 1. During any normal wash and rinse agitation, the drum will tumble left, pause, then tumble right and so on. However when doing towels it will not handle more than 4 or 5 towels. Any more and the obvious extra water weight causes a problem during wash/rinse left/right agitation. It moves barely left, pause, then barely right etc.. everything else during acts normal, and no codes. Any ideas?
Hi,
I have a Kenmore front load washer that’s about 6years old. It will fill with water, but will not drain or spin and it runs through the complete cycle in about 3 minutes flat. I’ve tried running it on all the other cycles and run it empty but the same results happen. My husband has to manually drain the water. But I am most concerned as to why the dial runs through the entire cycle so fast? I’d love any help!
I have an Amana model #LWA20AW. It will not agitate or spin. I can move the drum freely counterclockwise, but stops within a quarter turn clockwise. Any suggestions?
11/2008 purchased
Whirlpool Front-Loading Washer
Model #WFW9600TA01
I get a flashing “SUD” sometimes and other times it is flashing F35
Service men come out and put parts on and it is ok for a while and then it starts again and the cycle goes on. Whirlpool even totally replaced the machine 6 mos. after purchase. But it still goes on with this new machine. Any suggestions besides never buying Whirlpool again and definitely never pay $4,000.00 for a pair of appliances again when a $200.00 one will work as well, probably better.
Thanks Jackie “frustrated”
Hi Amy,
A grinding noise will usually mean a bearing is going bad or the transmission is having issues. Is there any type of metal or plastic shavings under the machine? Without the model number we can’t give precise advice… We would need model number, age of washer, and exact error code displayed.
-RR
I have a Maytag Front loading washer that isn’t spinning or draining. I took the front panel off, removed the filter and a bunch of nasty smelling water came pouring out. The filter wasn’t very dirty, but I cleaned it, but it all back together and I still get the “f” code when I try to restart the laundry. Could there be a clog somewhere else? There is almost a grinding type of noise when I start the washer before it gives me the code.
Hi Sara,
This is a very common problem with an older washer when an internal part fails. The washer will make a buzzing sound as it is trying to run, has power, but a broken part is making it impossible. You will most likely have to replace a part or parts on your washer. The most likely parts that have gone bad are in order beginning with most likely first… 1. Motor Coupling 2. Water Pump (possible something is jammed inside) 3. Motor 4. Gear Box. Do you smell a burning smell when the washer is making the buzzing or humming sound? Can you supply us with the model number of your Samsung Washing machine? Thanks.
-RR
I have a Samsung top load washer. Recently it stopped in the middle of a cycle and will not drain and makes a buzzing noise if I try to start it on any cycle. I’ve unplugged it and that didn’t help. Anytime I press start it makes the noise. Any help?
Hi Julia,
If the washer is agitating while spinning (spin mode) it sounds like there is a transmission issue. If the washer is going into a true agitation cycle during spin cycle, then your transmission is definitely to blame. The motor turns clockwise for spin and counter clockwise for agitate. It is possible something has come loose or broken and locked the spin gear with the agitator gear. Here is a page from Maytag that has some Transmission Schematics to look at to determine if you may need to order parts. Those parts breakdowns will also let you see how the transmission is put together. To really know what the problem may be, it sounds like you will need to take the washing machine apart and have a look at the transmission. See if there are any visible broken or loose parts that may be creating the issue. Let us know if you have any other info to give us that may be able to further assist you.
-RR
While waiting for your reply, which was quick, THANK YOU, I’ve been thinking and staring at the washer and found that if I PRESS DOWN REAL HARD and then release on the agitator it would start to spin. I went directly to the spin cycle, no water in it, to do this. I also took apart the entire agitator and didn’t find anything like yarn or a sock, etc., stuck or wrapped around the metal shaft. I HAD TO PRESS DOWN HARD to get the top dispenser cup on the agitator when I assembled the agitator’s three parts, and by your instructions I then ran the washer empty. It filled, then agitated COUNTERCLOCKWISE a nice amount of time, emptied (still agitating the whole time), then did spin fast CLOCKWISE still again agitating the whole time. It seemed to spin an awful long time after the water was out so I manually nudged the timer dial to stop and fill to rinse. It filled and almost immediately agitated and simultaneously spun CLOCKWISE, not giving a decent final rinse cycle. As it did spin on its own both times during the wash cycle there was no need to reach in and turn the inner tub by hand. It seems like its brain is muddled up and just can’t go through the right motions in the right order. I hate to be a bother but any other ideas? I only do at most three loads a week and the washer is almost as new in spite of its age and the trouble I’m now having after the ruined belt episode.
Hi Julia,
Run the washer empty. Let it go through all cycles. When it is in the SPIN mode, SAFELY reach in and see if you can turn the inner tub easily by hand. If YOU CAN TURN IT FREELY by hand, then your brake has released. This would mean your belt, brake, motor pivot and trust bearing kit are all fine and your transmission may be the issue. IF YOU CANNOT TURN THE TUB FREELY then your brake is still holding. Make sure the motor is pivoting back and forth freely and inspect the thrust bearing and pulley assembly. Check for items stuck between the tubs such as a sock or similar as this can cause the washer to not spin.
-RR
We have a Maytag Performa PAVT234AWW washing machine which I apparently severely over loaded with clothes and a heavy, yet small, throw rug. It “scorched” the belt, belt fell off, and also melted the plastic motor pulley. The washing machine wouldn’t do anything and had to be emptied by hand, water and all contents. The washing machine was laid on its right side, and husband pulled off/removed what was left of the melted motor pulley and replaced it with a similar plastic motor pulley from a Crosley motor since a separate replacement motor pulley isn’t available, only a whole new motor for that model number. He also put on a new belt. The washing machine was put upright, etc., and now the washing machine fills great, agitates great, drains fine (but continues to agitate at the same time while draining, not sure if that’s normal or not), but WON’T SPIN. We even have let the machine “rest” in the upright position thinking that would help but does not. Any ideas?
Dan,
We do not have enough info to give you detailed troubleshooting advice. However, have you safely opened up the machine and checked for a worn or broken drive belt?
-RR
Buster,
After you reassembled the motor, was it still leaking? Can you provide us with your model number please?
-RR
Everett,
Unplug machine and remove panels. Have a look inside for any obvious signs of wear or broken parts. If you can give us any more details such as model number we can give better troubleshooting advice.
-RR
Julie,
The most common reason for the problem you are describing is a faulty lid switch. Check the switch with a multimeter.
-RR
My whirlpool top loader fills but does not start any cycle i.e it does not spin. What can cause this to happen.
We have a GE top loading washing machine. The machine will fill with water, go through the cycle and drain. However, during this time it will not agitate or spin out. Tried the master reset without any luck. Any more advice?
I have a Samsung front load washer. It appears to have stopped draining. I checked and cleaned the filter, checked for obstructions in all the hoses. I tested the pump motor and it ran when hooked up to a 120 power source. While performing the power test I noticed water leaking from the motor. It was foul smelling, so I disassembled the motor to find the motor compartment filled with water. I cleaned out the compartment, cleaned and silicone the O-rings, reassembled and poured water into the pump and let stand. After an hour or so, I disassembled the motor again, only to find water back in the compartment. I am guessing, this should not be happening. Can you verify? Would this cause the pump to stop operating after a period of time?
Hi
I have an AMANA washer machine 5 years old, it starts normally but is not spinning and draining anymore. I open drainage pump, looks OK. Any advice?
Hi Lynne,
Glad to hear your washing machine is retired in sunny Florida!! So…….. It sounds like the machine is still usable and your clothes are not soaked but slightly damp. Is the lid switch attached to the machine as it should be and getting a good contact by the lid plunger? Is your washer draining most of the water out at the end of the cycle? Does it spin at high speed at the end of the cycle or is it an intermittent spin? Does the machine produce a clicking noise when it tries to go into spin mode before you have to turn the drum manually? Is it fully draining out the water? Depending on these factors, have a look here to read a little bit more in depth on the different combinations of faults. Hope this helps!
-RR
I agree that keeping the washer inside would be better for it, but there is a lack of space. The best I could do was to elevate the machine on four 2 x 2 concrete pavers and cover it with a heavy vinyl tarp when not in use. I live in the northern part of Florida; the washing machine sits in a little wooded area so it doesn’t have direct sunlight on it. The wooded area has yearly temperatures ranging from 35 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit and never gets any frost in winter. Most of the year, the washer enjoys temps from 50 to 80. Because it is sheltered by the trees, the tarp covering the washer is less exposed to rain than it would be if the washer sat in an open area of the property. You might say that the machine is semi-retired and enjoying the best of the Florida weather!
Regarding the timer issue: I looked inside the console; the wires and timer did not have any signs of rust or corrosion, BUT the timer was sitting cockeyed, thereby causing the metal ring on the control knob to rub against the console. Perhaps something bumped the control knob. Repositioning it did the trick and now it turns the way it should.
The machine still has an intermittent problem not starting to spin unless I manually turn the basket 1/2 to 3/4 turn around (until it reaches the point where it can’t be turned further). I haven’t figured out why this happens. Once I get the basket in position, it starts spinning as soon as I close the lid, and it spins quite well. When I remove the clothes at the end of the cycle, they are just damp, they smell very clean, and they dry very quickly on the clothesline.
Hi Richard,
The belts and lid switch are the first items to replace when having an issue such as NO SPIN with the Maytag A506. Since you have already replaced the belts and the lid switch is ok, the next part to have a look at is the Brake Assembly. This WILL be the solution if the machine is NOT spinning but STILL pumping out the water. Have a look here for the part we believe you will need and a brief “how to” remove and replace summary.
-RR
Hi, My Maytag A506 washer does not spin. I replaced the belts today; the lid switch appears to be working properly – at least, it shuts the motor off when I open the lid and resumes when I close it. Like John S. above, (June 14, 2014) the motor spins but the belt just slips on the pulley. When I remove the belt I can turn the tub pulley easily in the counter clockwise direction (agitation); clockwise I can turn it, but with considerable difficulty. I have the machine up on jackstands and I have the front panel removed so I can observe what’s happening. Any advice or suggestions?
Lynne,
First of all, keeping the washer outside in the elements is not an ideal place to keep a washer and expect it to work perfectly. It sounds like the washer being located outside is having a corroding effect on the timer dial. Have you taken the timer out and inspected it for rust and corrosion? The wiring on the timer may also be at fault or the wiring in the machine as a whole. Have you taken the panels off lately and inspected the wiring and controls for rust/corrosion? It sounds like you have replaced many different parts 8 months ago. It is possible that the machine has gained new problems in that time frame from being outside. It is difficult to give useful advice when the washer is located outside. We do not know where you reside or what type of weather conditions the machine is subjected too.
-RR
I have a resurrected Whirlpool top loader washer WTW5200SQ0. Years ago, it went way off balance, the agitator came off, and it wouldn’t spin any more. It was left outside, full of rainwater, for a year. When I got it, I replaced a lot of internal parts: the transmission (worn shaft), motor coupling, clutch, brake and drive tube, centerpost bearings, drive block, and the bolt and rubber washer that holds the agitator in place. Yay, it worked, and I used it for 8 months. Now, the timer is getting really hard to turn and sometimes the machine won’t start into spin cycle until I open the lid and turn the basket about 3/4 around. Where I live, sometimes the electrical supply is inconsistent. Could it be that not having sufficient current prevents the machine from setting up to start spinning? Or could a dying timer be the trouble? Or both?
(The washer still lives outside, gets covered with a tarp when not in use. I do one load of laundry early in the morning, when the temperature is still cool, and before other people start using the power supply.)
I have a frontload maytag neptune washer. It will not spin. Other than the master reset, does anyone have a suggestion prior to making a service call?
Hi Jose,
Have you opened the machine and checked the belt and pulleys? It sounds as if a belt has snapped. If the machine goes through the cycles but it does not spin… check the belt. If you open up the washer and that is not your issue, let us know your washing machine model number so we may research further.
-RR
Hello
I have front load GE washer machine.
The machine loads water in any cycle, that is OK, but when need start to spin, the motor not start or machine not send signal for that. I replace the Control Board, but have the same problem. I make a M-Reset but not work. I put the timer on spin option but nothing happens, not work, only have a noise of that machine is on.
What part i need verify or replace for re-work my machine for start spin?
Remember, machine load water to level and pump extract all water w/out problem, the problem is for spin….
Hi Yafei,
The LE error code can mean a few things. Mostly it will give the LE error code if the machine has excessive suds. This means that the wrong detergent is being used. The LG washing machine you have is HE or high efficiency, meaning that you have to use HE detergent or low sudsing detergent. Is it possible someone has added the wrong type of soap? Overloading the washer can also give you the LE error code. Reset the machine and try washing with no clothes in it and see if the LE error disappears. If you continue to have the error, the next steps will be to start replacing parts in this order… Hall Effect Sensor, Stator Assembly, Control Board.
-RR
Liana,
Sounds like you overloaded the machine when the blanket was added. The first thing to check should be the belt which turns the drum. It may have moved around on the pulley and fell off. Second, it may be the motor coupling that may have become damaged or become loose. Here is a whirlpool washer repair video that will show how to take apart and what to remove and replace if needed.
-RR
Yippeee, the advice about the reset worked a treat. Thank you ❤
I have a Roper (whirlpool), model # RAX7245KQO which is not spinning and rinsing. I have tried all the cycles and when it reaches rinse and spin cycle it stops. When I moved the knob it made the clicking sound but nothing is happening. This all started when I tried to wash the blanket, so I know there is nothing stuck in there, but the load might have been heavy for the machine. I have tried resetting using the unplug and lid technique with no result. I do not have the manual on the machine as it came with the house when I moved in couple of years back. Please help!
I have LG Front Loading Washer (model no WM0532HW) and it stopped working after about 3 minutes and the Error Code is LE
We did reset 3 times (unplug and plug, open and close door 6 times within 12 seconds) and it does not work…not sure what to do and hope to get some advice
Hi Rachael,
There may be a very simple reason this is happening. One or more of the legs (or feet) on the washer may not be seated flat on the floor. If the machine is not perfectly flat, the machine will vibrate and move around. Look and see that the 4 legs at bottom are level on the floor. If one leg is not flat on the floor, simply turn it counter clockwise to move it downward. Once all 4 legs are flat, try running an empty load and see if the problem still occurs. If the legs are all touching the floor, then there may be an imbalance. Try running the machine with no clothes and see if the vibration still occurs. The washer may have also been overloaded. If you still have the same issue after fixing the legs and running a cycle with less clothes, please let us know.
-RR
Hi I have a Samsung WF0600NCS front loader washer. I have a problem with using the spin function. Whenever I put it on spin, it spins so fast that it starts shaking and vibrating so strong that most times I have to turn it off. This leaves my clothes still soaked. Please help thanks.
Hi Amy,
The problem may be that the drain is blocked. This will cause your washer to “not spin”. Have you checked to see if there is a blockage in the drain? Check the drain hose and the drain itself. This is the most common reason for a Bosch Washer not draining. (Have you tried the Reset procedure that is at the top of this page?) If the drain is not blocked, then the motor brushes, the printed circuit board (PCB), or a wiring harness may have come loose or could be at fault.
If you need further assistance, please send us the Model number of your Bosch washing machine.
-RR
I have a Bosch washer dryer that will not run through a full cycle. It goes through wash and rinse but then stops before completing final rinse and spin. It goes back to the beginning of the cycle! If I put it on spin cycke it doesn’t move! Please help!
Hi Holly,
It sounds like you overloaded your washing machine. As you stated, when you came back to check it, it had moved or “walked”. The machine will move around when overloading occurs. Overloading a washing machine can cause parts to vibrate loose and create problems. The easiest solution is to wait a few hours and then try running a wash cycle. The reason for this is because the motor is thermally protected and will not power up if overheated. Overloading a washer causes the motor to work extra hard and causes overheating issues. The motor protects itself from damage by shutting down. So give it some time and try again. If allowing the washer motor time to cool down does not work, there could be parts such as a belt or pulley that fell off or are not properly aligned. You will need to safely remove panels and inspect the inside of the washer.
-RR
Hi-
My Simpson EZI sensor swf10761 Washing machine stopped working. I’ve tried everything to get it going. I went in there when I thought it was finished with a load and it had moved. I moved it back took everything out and put the next load in. Went back later and it hadn’t done anything. It locks the door and that’s it. I cleaned the filter and there was some plastic in there. I’ve been washing new fluffy blankets and towels today and lots of them. Please help I have 4 weeks to go until I have a baby and I need my washing machine and can’t afford a new one.
I thought I should share my experience. Our washing machine wasn’t spinning at all (top load). I then set the machine for spin and opened the lid but operated the switch manually with a cocktail stick, I just wanted to see what was happening as with the closed lid you can’t see it. The drum would spin very slowly and then it was stopping and struggling to spin. I noticed a small piece of clothing stuck between the drum and the machine body. I took the cloth out and hey presto, it started to work.
So before you call for an engineer and pay for the call out, its worth inspecting the machine or any kind of blockage first.
Hi Jed,
One thing to try quick is to reset the control board to see if that is at fault. Simply unplug the machine from power for a minute or two. Plug the machine back in, then PRESS AND HOLD THE START BUTTON for about 5 seconds. Holding the button in will allow the control board to reset and may fix the machine. That may or may not help, but if not, can you please let us know your Beko washing machine model number? The model number is XXXXXXX and is printed on the front control panel and starts with a W.
-RR
Hi I have a Beko washing machine and it has stopped working. It fills with water on a cycle but wont spin or drain. Ive cleaned the filter but no joy. Could u advise me what to do?
Hi Chris,
Any washer that will wash, drain, but WILL NOT spin, could mean a worn out drive motor coupling. If you are able to open your washer then this is what you need to check. Inspect the drive motor coupling and determine if the part is worn out and needs replaced. Here is a picture of a motor coupling to show the part in question.
-RR
Hi I have a whirlpool awo/d 5556 washer, it does the wash well and drains but wash is dripping wet and dosen’t spin. I have checked the pump and it’s free as it drains ok. Any ideas please? Thanks Chris
I can manually drain it by taking the drain hose and putting it to the level of the floor. I will check the drain pump to see if something is stuck in it.
WP,
Many times a washer will not fully drain out the water because a small object such as a sock or similar gets caught in the drain pump or the drain hose. We understand you stated it will not spin but we recommend inspecting those items first as troubleshooting “no spin” gets more technical. If the pump and the hose are clear of clogs, let us know and we will guide you as to what to do next.
-RR
Whirlpool washer model no. LSP8245AW0 will not finish spin or fully drain. Attempts to start spin but won’t finish and clothes are still dripping. I do not think that it drains after the wash cycle before the rinse cycle. Agitates just fine. Could it be the drain pump or is it more likely to be something else?
Derek,
You did not give us enough info to properly assist you. However, the Smeg washers have a weakness, the drum pulley wheel is made from a cheap material. This causes the pulley to wear out and become unstable causing the belt to fall off. Pop open the panel and have a look inside to see if the pulley is at fault and the belt is hanging off.
-RR
I have a Smeg front loader washer and it will not spin. I have checked the filter and it is clear and spinning okay.
Hi John S,
Have you tested the LID SWITCH ASSEMBLY? A Maytag washer with your model number will not spin, but WILL drain when the LID SWITCH has become defective. If you have a multimeter go ahead and test it to be sure the switch is working properly. If you find that the LID SWITCH needs replaced, there are many trustworthy appliance supply stores online. Repair Clinic and Parts Select are both reliable sources for Washing Machine parts.
-RR
Hi RR,
I have a Maytag LAT9406AAE Washer with 2 belts. After the last load of clothes it drained but didn’t spin.
It will agitate and drain and run a cycle except for spin. It doesn’t leak anywhere. I have changed the 2 belts under the machine and tested the motor. Everything seems to work except spinning. With the belts off, the large bottom pulley will turn easily counter clockwise but once it gets to a point clockwise it is virtually stuck and will barely turn. With the belts on and tightened, the smaller agitation belt works but the larger belt slips on the large pulley and won’t turn the tub to spin. I checked for any clothes that may be stuck along the tub sides and don’t find anything.
I like this washer and would like to rebuild it but I don’t want to buy and replace parts that I don’t need. Any troubleshooting suggestions and any suggestions on what parts to start replacing 1st, 2nd, 3rd… would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you. John
Hi Peter,
Since the washer was working before it was moved, it may have been banged around. It is very possible that the DRIVE BELT has fallen off of the pulleys and therefore will not spin. This may also explain why there is no noise as the motor running by itself is more than likely very quiet. The noise you hear when everything is working properly is the drum and belt turning. So, remove the panels after power is disconnected and check DRIVE BELT. Here is a link to the HOTPOINT WMF 740 WASHING MACHINE DRIVE BELT that SHOULD fix your washing machine if you happen to need to replace it.
-RR
HI HAVE HOTPOINT AQUARIUS WMF740.HAVE UNPLUGGED FROM MAINS WHEN TURNED OFF TO MOVE.HAVE THEN PLUGGED IT BACK IN.PROBLEM–MACHINE NOW TAKES IN WATER BUT WILL NOT WASH.GOES THROUGH WHOLE CYCLE,TAKING IN WATER,EMPTYING BUT DRUM DOES NOT TURN.ON CHECKING DRUM TURNS NO PROBLEM BY HAND,CANNOT HEAR ANY MOTOR.MACHINE DOES NOT SHOW ANY FAULT CODES?
MACHINE DOES THIS WHETHER FULL OR EMPTY.
i did the washer reset by unplugging etc and it worked !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i was sooo nervous, i kept trying other rinse cycles and it kept agitating the clothes but not draining or spinning out the water!!
Vlad,
Have you checked the drive belt? If your washing machine will drain with NO CLOTHES in it, then it sounds as if the belt may be worn. When clothes are in the washer and it does not drain or spin properly, always check the drive belt for wear.
-RR
On a front loading Frigidaire FAFW3801LW3, it does not drain when it is full of clothes. I have cleaned out the drain and filter. There are no error codes. The strange thing is that it seems to work fine when it is empty of clothes. Thanks in advance for any help.
Vlad
Hi David,
The problem you are describing for your Whirlpool front loading washer sounds like the clutch and or brake assembly is worn thus causing your specific issue. If possible, open the machine up and look at the clutch and brake assembly and inspect for wear. If you find any of these parts worn or broken, here are the parts that should be the exact ones that are needed for your specific washer. Here is the clutch assembly and the brake for your washer. (If you are going to order the parts to fix your washer online, please be sure to double check that the parts are the ones for your washer). The prices are not exactly low cost, so your best bet may be to call a technician to further troubleshoot the issue or research online to find a new low cost washing machine.
-RR
Hi! We have a Whirlpool AWO/R 4205 front loading washing machine (5kg 1200 spin) which is about 5 years old.
Over the past few months there would be the occasional wash when the clothes would be wringing wet at the end of the cycle. A further ‘spin only’ cycle would then be required to give a satisfactory, maximum spin result.
However, the washing machine has now stopped doing a final, maximum spin, merely draining the machine followed only by intermittent slower spins. And attempting to do a maximum spin only cycle merely produces the same, intermittent, slow spin. The machine has also to be stopped manually as these slower, intermittent slow spins are relentless and the wash cycle doesn’t complete.
Also, just in case this is relevant, when turning the control knob to the off position in order to stop the cycle and allow the door to be opened – after the requisite time lapse, the door opens but the ‘door open’ light no longer comes on.
I’m not concerned about the light – I just mention it in case it helps. But before splashing out on a new machine I just thought I’d seek out your advice.
Many thanks!
David
Stevie,
Give it some time to cool down. Sometimes the motor has a reset that is set to a time delay or thermally protected. It will shut off and won’t come back on for several minutes until the motor has cooled off. Remove clothes, give it an hour, then start the cycle again with the washer completely empty. If this does not work, unplug it and plug it back in to reset it. If this does not work then it sounds like the belt may now be misaligned or broken because of the overloaded washer. If you are able, unplug machine and remove panel and inspect belt. Repair as needed.
-RR
D,
Does it sound like it is spinning (when it should be in spin mode) and it is NOT spinning? Is it making a humming noise? Because if so here is a common reason a whirlpool washer will not spin that could be the issue with your washer. What is the model number of your Whirlpool washer?
-RR
Hi have a Kenmore 110.26432501
The washer was banging around heavily in a spin cycle, so I instinctively opened the lid to stop it (vs. pushing in the button).
After adjusting clothing distribution, I closed the lid, and it would not start spinning again. It would start a rinse cycle again, but no drain or spin.
I tried the reset trick, but no luck.
Please help!
Hello
I have a Whirlpool washer. The wash cycle works great. It will rinse..BUT it wont spin out. Each cycle it does the same thing. Ive tried unplugging then raising and letting down lid to reset, but it is still not spinning out. What could be wrong
My Whirlpool washer wouldn’t drain or spin, in any mode. I watched some YouTube videos, checked out the lid switch and it was fine. The motor made no sound when I put it on any of the drain/spin speeds/settings. Just before I gave up on fixing the problem myself, I came across this site. None of the other sites had even mention “reset”. I tried that next and “Abra Kadabra”, my washer is working perfectly!
Thank you so much! Something so simple, and I could have had to pay for a service call and wait for a repair man (with a tub full of water and wet towels) who would have done the same thing !
Thank you so much ! You are my Hero !
Chris,
The only thing you could do besides buying the correct part and installing it is adding anti vibration feet under the washer itself. Here is one of our pages that can help you with troubleshooting a vibrating washer.
-RR
We have a 27 year old Maytag washer, top loading, that has always worked well. Today it started really vibrating and walking around, and the tumbler is hard to turn. The repair shop on the phone said that the neoprene pads under the tumbler are probably shot and that there is no replacement part. He advised to get a new washer. Are there any other options?
Greda,
We will need the model number of your Whirlpool washer to assist you. The problem you are having could be a list of nearly 500 faults for “washer no spin” without the model number. Please provide us with this information so we may troubleshoot the issue for you.
-RR
My whirlpool washer goes through all cycles but will not do a final spin.clothes are still full of water machine says final spin but it is not spinning.
Amazingly the reset of opening and closing door 6 times in 12 seconds worked. So chuffed. Thank you!
Jacob,
Be absolutely sure the machine and motor is grounded (earth wire). Also be sure you have used the correct fuse in the plug. When that particular washer does everything BUT the drum does not spin, it is almost always the brushes. If you have a multimeter test for continuity across the brushes. If the circuit is OPEN then the brushes need replaced.
-RR
Hi
I have a hotpoint WD62 washer dryer for 15 years.
Recently in mid cycle it blew the plug fuse. Having replaced the fused the door would not open. I tried starting new cycle but the door would still not open. After some investigation I was able to open the door by pushing on the silicone switch. Also the earth wire had come off the motor. Now the drum does not turn at all. It seems it wants to turn and I can hear clicking noise from the timer switch. I have checked the belt brushes and the motor seems to be working. Water comes in and drains but the drum does not turn at all in wash or spin. The drum is not stuck or anything I am baffled as what the cause may be.
Thanks in advance.
I have a whirlpool top loading washer that is about 5 years old. Sometimes it spins and sometimes it doesn’t. The water is drained but clothes are still dripping wet. I tried the reset procedure in the article, and that did not work. I manually pushed the drum about a quarter turn myself, and then it would spin again. Not sure how long this fix will last. Does anyone know what the root of the problem might be?
Thank you for the info RR.
I went through the PDF info and checked the switch (all fine). also no burning smell at all, water supply fine (and filled / emptied quickly).
Ended up finding several unknown faults (small leak on drum surround, perished rubber on door seal, small leak from pump and the controller hd a lot of corrosion to it – though all components were still working.
In the end, decide to simly get another machine as a friend was getting rid of one. So taken pump out and the main motor (flexible things that work on AC and DC from about 20 volts upwards) from my old machine and the rest of the machine has been scrapped.
Wondering if I can make a hobbyist style centrifuge using the old motor. More fun to be had :)
Again, thank you for your feedback but in the end, a backlog of laundry and a friend with a machine to spare curtainled further diagnostics!
Hi Trudy,
Is the machine draining out the water? Model number?
-RR
Need help!
I have a front loading Frigidaire washing machine that is not spinning the water out properly.
Any ideas what is wrong?
Hi Mark,
Can you tell us the serial number of your machine? Does the machine have a “year manufactured” date stamp? Also, since you are an electrical engineer, have you tested the door switch? A faulty or “on the fritz” door switch can make the machine run intermittently. Cold water supply is turned fully on or open? There is no burning or electrical smell from the machine? Also, the sensor on the motor you are speaking of, is it actually attached to the motor itself? Please describe further. Here is a troubleshooting guide for the Hotpoint WF440P Washing Machine. It is a .PDF file that you can download or view in your browser. Once the pdf file loads, scroll down to Step 8 as there may be some extra info to assist you.
-RR
Hello RR.
I wonder if you can help me please.
I have a Hotpoint WF440P which has worked fairly well until recently. At first it would wash fine but when it came to rinse, the drum would not always rotate much – yet when it came to spinning away it would go.
A couple of days ago it didn’t seem to be turning as much as it usually did even on the wash cycle – long gaps between turning. Yet when it WAS turning it was smooth and quiet as always.
Today, there was NO drive on the wash cycle and (being an electrical engineer), I removed the lid and had a look around. I found that if I “nudged” the drum drive wheel with a screwdriver, it would often then run happily – until it stopped ready to go back the other way. If it was “bump started” it would do that too – at first.
Then it simply refused to run anymore at all.
I thought “brushes or worn commutator”, turned machine upside down, removed brushes (hardly worn), commutator a little grubby but not worn). I cleaned the commutator and replaced brushes. Still not a sausage. Pump works fine (waste not blocked) and drum rotates freely and no unpleasant noises from anywhere.
I have checked lose connections and found none, I cannot find a motor run capacitor (and doubt that would be intermittent). the only thing I have wondered is that at the back of the motor appears to be a shaft-position sensor with two red wires coming out of it. I could see no easy way to remove it but dripped some isopropyl alcohol in to the gaps while turning the drum by hand – so spinning the motor quite quickly.
Still nothing.
Do you have any ideas as to what it might be that could start of intermittently and then just fail totally? If you reckon it might be the shaft position sensor, is there a way to remove it without special tools?
Sorry for the long explanation but I wanted to bring you up to date with what I have tried so far.
Kind Regards
Mark
Earl,
The “no spin” problem with your 3.5 cubic feet Kenmore Front Load Washer sounds to us like a defective door lock assembly. With that particular Kenmore washer, when there is a faulty door lock switch, the machine will do EVERYTHING except spin. You could try and “jumper” around the switch. Another common part to fail is the motor control board. If you do not have a multimeter to check for voltage or continuity, we suggest unplugging the machine and removing the panels and perform a visual inspection. Is the washing machine producing an Error Code?
-RR
I have a Kenmore Front 3.5 Model 970-C45072-30 load washer that will not spin. I have cleaned out the Drain pump and hoses. The door locks as it should and will drain the water from the tub but not spin when required. I can not check the electrical for voltage as I do not have the tools. I am in an isolated location and do not have access to regular parts. Any suggestions??
Ann Marie,
Is the machine completely dead? Getting power? Does it light up? Try unplugging the machine for 15 minutes as this may reset the master control board.
Another thing to try…. Try this trick…. If the machine does have power but won’t start, press the door in a little and at the same time press start button. See if that brings it back to life.
-RR
I have a Samsung WA400PJHDWR/AA Top Washer and for some reason it stopped at 30 min left. It doesn’t have an error code it just doesn’t do anything. I tried unplugging and opening and closing the lid. Nothing. How do you do a master reset on it please. Thank you.. :-)
Thank you I have identified the washer buzzing sound and believe it to be a locked up motor. Thanks again
Hi Chris,
Since we do not have Washing machine Make, Model, and Serial Number, listen to these washing machine fault sound clips to match up the sound your washer is making. By doing so it will give you a better idea of what the problem is to help you further troubleshoot the problem.
-RR
Hi and thanks in advance
Our washer makes a buzz sound when we try to turn it on unless we start it in the middle of the cycle. In this case water will start and it will finish I’m guessing the rinse cycle part. Any ideas?
Ruth,
If the washing machine is now working, you do not need to be concerned. If there are intermittent issues with the washing machine running properly, then taking the washer apart and inspecting for foreign objects will be your best bet. If the small missing battery is in the washing machine, it is most likely located in the pump filter or in the pump itself. There are areas in the washing machine where things can accumulate and will NOT hurt your washer.
-RR
Hi,
Glad the washing machine sound clips helped isolate your problem. Concerning the cold water not working on your washing machine, check the valve on the cold water outlet on the wall to make sure it is fully open. If it is fully open, then the problem is in the washer itself or the cold water hose is clogged. If the cold water hose is clogged you will need to replace it. To test the cold water valve and the cold water hose, turn the cold water valve fully off in the wall, unscrew the cold water hose from the washer, put the end of cold water hose into an empty bucket and turn the water back on and see if the water comes on at the normal water pressure. This will tell you if the problem is in the wall or on the washer itself. If the hose and the valve on the wall are working, then it may be possible that there are issues with the water inlet valve on your washing machine. Here is a generalized Washing Machine Water Inlet Valve video to show the location of where the water inlet valve is located and how to remove and replace it.
-RR
We used your sound clips and it turns out the issue was with the pump. Thanks for that link.
Now that I have the washing machine running, there’s an issue with the hot/cold. The machine will not fill with cold water. If set for hot wash or warm wash, the machine will fill with hot and warm. However it will not fill with cold for either wash or rinse. If set for cold, it will inlet warm water (tried turning off the hot at the faucet and there’s is a small amount of cold water into the tub when set to “cold”). Any advice you could give would be appreciated.
Can’t find a small button battery that was left in a pocket and put into the washing machine. It is a stackable Model 110 Kenmore machine. At one point it wouldn’t do anything, so I moved the dial to reset and it continues to do the wash without problems. The battery was not in the clothes nor in the dryer and anywhere on the floor. Should I be concerned or will the small button battery be pumped out of the machine? Please advise. I tried putting a wire hanger under the agitator but did not find anything. Thanks. p.s. Never lost anything else in the washer which is almost 5 yrs. old.
Hi,
To see if there is a true issue with the transmission pulley, we recommend reading the information on this page that should help you to better understand the issue you are describing. Also, since we are unable to hear the buzzing sound of your washing machine, please listen to these different washing machine sound clips that can help you to isolate what the problem may be. If we could actually hear the loud noise your washer is making, we could instantly tell you what the problem is. So listen to the sound clips and let us know which sound is similar to your problem. By you hearing the sound that is identical to your washer issue, this may help you to determine what part to replace or what to troubleshoot next.
-RR
The belt was dirty but seemed okay. However the transmission pulley only turns easily in the clockwise direction, counterlockwise there’s a lot of resistance much like pulling on a rubber band, and about every quarter turn the pulley wants to snap back in the other direction.
I’ve read elsewhere that if the transmission pulley doesn’t move freely it could indicate an issue with a gear being stripped, issue with bearings or other transmission problem. Does this sound like an avenue I have to explore?
Also other people in the household indicate that the washing machine motor was making loud sounds the previous night but now other than a mechanical buzz there is no action. The machine doesn’t drain out the water either. It will fill with water, buzz and do nothing else. Please advise, thanks in advance for your help.
Thank you I’ll check that and follow up. Appreciate the advice
Hello,
This sounds as if the belt has broken or become worn. If possible, unplug the unit from power. Then open the unit up by removing the panel or panels and check the drive belts condition. Most likely it will need to be replaced. Doing this yourself will save you money instead of calling a repairman. Only take the washer apart if you are comfortable doing so. The Maytag Atlantis Top Loading Washer Drive Belt is here to order online if you choose to fix this yourself.
-RR
I have Maytag Atlantis top loading washer (about 10 years old). It will fill with water but will not agitate, spin or drain.
When it gets to the agitate stage there’s a mechanical buzz but no other action. This morning there was also a slight burning or heating smell.
-any ideas on where to start thanks
Hi Amanda,
During the normal wash cycle, does the washer produce an error code? Have you tried unplugging the washer overnight, and trying again in the morning? Sounds strange but some machines have a long period reset.
-RR
Overloaded my whirlpool duet wfw9550 washer last night. It tripped the breaker reset the breaker and it won’t do anything. Ran diagnostic everything worked except spin and no error codes have come up. Tried the master reset didn’t work. Cleaned out the pump filter area and the hose still nothing. When we try to run cycles it won’t do anything at all it. But during the diagnostic it works fine but still doesn’t spin. It spins freely when I stick my hand in the drum and turn it manually. Any help would be much appreciated.
Jennifer,
This error usually means “Suds lock”. Excessive soap in washer…
The first question in this situation is what type and amount of detergent are you using? Have you recently changed your detergent?
With this Whirlpool washer you must use only HE detergents and use a small amount.
-RR
I have a Whirlpool washer, front load. When I start it up, it fills with water, the drum turns, and then after about 8 minutes it shuts off. All the lights flash, and then it beeps. We have checked the drain, it was clear. Checked the pump, it was clear, but the problem continues. What could it be?
Eric,
Sounds like a faulty timer switch (the knob you have to turn back around for it to spin again).
A Kenmore 70 series washer timer (knob) switch will be around $30 to $60 dollars online.
You can order one and install it yourself by following the instructions found in the packaging.
-RR
David,
It sounds as if the “clutch disk” is not spinning.
Safely remove the panel and look inside and see if the motor is turning.
If the motor is turning and the clutch disk is not spinning then its usually a bad coupler that needs to be replaced.
-RR
I have a Kenmore washer that I bought 2 years ago. I never used it because I shipped it overseas to my vacation home.
Kenmore Top load Washer by Whirlpool Model # 11021102010
Just recently I tried to use it but the agitator won’t spin.
The water fills up and then it would pump it out without going to the wash cycles.
I had someone who is a technician check it out but he told me that he never worked on this kind of machine.
However, he told me that I may have to change the circuit board so I changed it with a brand new one from Sears.
The same thing is happening, now he tells me that it may have to re-program the machine and he doesn’t have a manual to do it.
Can you help me to troubleshoot?
Kenmore 70 series washer goes thru a complete cycle but does not spin at the end. I open lid and see clothing very wet as water does not drain out normally. If I turn the knob back around to spin then it spins and ends normally. Any suggestions?
Charlie,
If the washer won’t spin the motor coupling may have failed as it is designed too if overloaded to protect the motor and transmission.
The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission.
Another problem may be the lid switch.
-RR
Terry,
Sounds as if the unit is detecting an incomplete drain or an unlocked door, hence the control will not initiate a hi speed spin. For troubleshooting purposes, try running the machine exactly as before but without any clothes and see if it completes the cycle.
-RR
Hi Elliot,
Is there any sound all at when it gets to the spin cycle, like a hum or a click?
The first thing I would do is check the lid switch for continuity with a meter.
-RR
Kenmore washer dryer combo mod 41794812301…it fills with water, agitates but does not empty or spin…manually emptied tub but still does not spin.
I have a Kenmore 3.5 quiet tumble front load washer, Model # 970-C45072-30. I have tried all the settings on it and when its time to spin all it does is tumble like it does when washing. It wont go into actual high spin speed and my clothes stay wet. PLEASE HELP.
Hello there! I am hoping you get this message. I am in Costa Rica and having issues with my LG direct drive front load washer. The issue I am having is that it would work fine if I put a small load and run it on quick wash or delicate cycle but if I put it with a normal load on the cotton/regular cycle it will wash fine until it gets down to few minutes of the wash cycle and then it adds another hour to the cycle. It gets stuck on the wash cycle for hours! Could you please let me know what could possibly be happening to my washing machine?
Thank you so much!
Paula.
I have a Samsung WA5451 Washer. It just started to act up during the final spin stage (doesn’t matter which wash type was selected). The final spin will start for a minute or two (building up speed) and then the machine stops, adds about 10 minutes to the wash and starts adding water again. I’m not sure to to fix this. This behavior is consistent and it never completes the final spin.
I’ve run the diagnostic test, draining works fine, spin test goes over 1000rpm, water temperatures are ok, the lid sensor correctly detects the open/closed state. Would you have any suggestions that I can try? Anything would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Roper Washing Machine model # rab4232ew1 will not spin on the spin cycle
I overloaded my washer..now it will not do anything..it stopped after the wash cycle…water still in tub..
Hi Jon,
Check drainage of the pump filter for blockages (lint, coins hair, clips).
Check drain hose and waste connection for kinks and blockages.
Then select a spin cycle to drain the remaining water in the appliance.
Also check here for more info.
-RR
I have a Samsung WD8704RJA. It has suddenly stopped working and displays 5E error. I have done all of the following but still it will not drain.
Check pump filter is clear and there are no obstructions
Check the drain hose for obstruction
Check the drain hose is not kinked
Check the drain pump filter and clean if required
Check drain pump
Check drain pump rotor
Check connections to water drain pump
I have even replaced the whole pump assembly but still fails to drain away?
What else could the problem be? Check the air chamber and pressure sensor hose? Where is this located? Does this connect to the pump?
Hi Annette,
PAU = PAUSE. Your washer may be confused and or holding things in memory (control board). The best quick fix for removing the PAU code is to UNPLUG your washing machine from the wall (or use the circuit breaker). Keep the power unplugged for 3 minutes and then plug it back in. Doing this will allow the capacitor on the control board to bleed off the previous things stored in memory therefore resetting the unit and making it usable.
-RR
I have a front load washer Frigidaire approx. 5 years old and when I push the button for the load to start it blinks with fault code PAU. It is Model Number FAFW3511KWO and Serial Number 4C00503677.
Thanks for any help!
Hi Scott,
This sounds exactly like a “lid switch” issue. Sometimes the lid switch will be working just fine but it may break away from its position and will cause the washer to fill with water and not drain. Check that the lid switch is in its proper position and working as intended. Here is a video that will give you a general idea of removing and replacing a washing machine lid switch for a top loading washer.
-RR
I have a top load washing machine that runs through the wash cycle fine, then runs through the first rinse and spin cycle fine. But when it gets to the final rinse/spin cycle it fills up with water and then that’s it. The dial on the machine keeps moving from rinse to spin but it doesn’t drain or spin on the final cycle. It does exactly the same thing on permanent press. Tried resetting the machine but it did not help. I have had trouble finding information involving not finishing the final rinse/spin cycle and was hoping you could help. Thanks for any advice you may have.
Hi FB,
If your washer will not drain out the water, check for a stuck object in the drain pump. If you hear it humming, then there is likely a problem with the drain pump unable to pump out the water. It might be jammed up with something from a previous wash. Something as small as a dime or penny can cause the problem you are describing. Since your machines are stacked, it might be wise to call a professional repairman to do this for you.
-RR
Hi Tash,
If the water level is lower than the reset level in 10 minutes after starting of water drain, this error will occur. This error code is very common and can be read as being either “SE” or “5E”. This error can be cleared by pressing the Start or Pause button. Then the washing machine will then restart and attempt to drain out the water out once again.
Here is what to check…
Check pump filter is clear and there are no obstructions
Check the drain hose for obstruction
Check the drain hose is not kinked
Check the drain pump filter and clean if required
Check the air chamber and pressure sensor hose
Check drain pump
Check drain pump rotor
Check connections to water drain pump
-RR
Hi, I have a maytag 3000 series front loader washer. I just did a load and it stopped midcycle with e and f error codes. The washer was full of water and will not drain, rinse or spin. I tried unplugging it and also closing the door six times as recommended but there was no change. I tried different cycles but all that happens is the door lock engages than this low hum and nothing else. I removed all the sopping wet clothing to my slop sink and there is water still in the washer. (The water drains to a drain not to the sink). I have the dryer stacked on top of the washer and am not sure where to access any of the inside mechanism. Please help!
Hello. I have a Samsung SW50USP Top Loader Washing machine. It starts as per normal, filling with water, completes the wash cycle, but when it comes to rinse it does nothing. It does not DRAIN OR SPIN. When trying a spin cycle, I hear a click from the back of the machine. After a while I get the error code 5E Displayed.
When i try the rinse and spin cycles with no clothes in it, she goes fine. What can the problem be? Any advice would be really appreciated. Thanks
Hi Georrge,
First check for a restriction in the drain hose to see if there is something blocking the pump from draining. If the drain hose is free of debris then do one test wash on the shortest time possible with NO clothing. Observe and see what happens. If the pump drains with no clothing, then likely there is a board malfunction. If it does not drain, then either the pump or a valve in the washer is clogged or faulty. On that specific washing machine the way to access the pump is removing screws in the top portion of the washer and the front panel should slide off. Here is a general video that will assist you with disassembling your washer.
-RR
I have a Samsung WA5451 top loader washing machine. The washer did not drain and there was the ND error code showing. After shutting down and restarting a few times it worked. It has been doing the same thing for couple weeks. Last night it did not and would not drain at all. I tested the washer in the demo mode and it is spinning. Any idea on what could be wrong? Also, how do I get access to the pump if I need to replace it? Thank you.
Hi Andrew,
Unplug the washer from power and remove the pump. Inspect internally for anything clogging or jamming it. If you found coins and other debris then this is an indication that there may be something preventing the pump from draining.
-RR
Hi Andie,
First remove the front facing panel and check the engagement of the “mode” shifter on the pulley. When the washer is “agitating” the shifter coil is energized and the solenoid is pulled so the cam is disengaged with the drive pulley. In spin mode the shifter coil should be de-engergized. This allows the cam to engage the drive pulley so that the drum and agitator spin together. With the washer off the cam should be engaged with the pulley. If this is not happening the mode shifter is faulty. If it is engaged with the washer off but not when in spin mode, the motor inverter is bad.
-RR
HI! We have a Maytag top load washer that is about 5 years old. First it started off when in the spin cycle it sounded like something was stuck and rubbing under the agitator. Checked that, nothing. Now the noise is gone but now the agitator spins but the drum does not when in the spin cycle.
My washing machine has stopped working on any cycle. Water is coming in but it is not draining nor is the drum spinning. Could this still indicate a pump fault or is more likely to be something else? I found coins in the pump trap that could indicate it is damaged but don’t want to buy new pump if it will not solve the problem.
Thanks Andrew
Hi
Thanks a million for the reset procedure. I was so fed up with the machine sometimes refusing to spin or drain the water and sometimes not – was about to throw it out and just buy a new one. It WORKED!
Heloise
3 socks stuck and removed before we finally got the drain to work… helluva a lot cheaper than a new pump!
Follow up. It was a sock in the drain line. Once we figured it out it was at least doable… Frustrating as all get out to diagnose!
I have a FEZ831AS1 Stack and successfully replaced the belt. Spin works fine, and now there is water being thrown out from the top of the tub… I am so frustrated! All the hoses we can find seem to be connected correctly and in good repair. The water is being splashed out inside the cabinet…
Hi
My washing machine is a Samsung top loader. It’s making noise when it spins as if something is failing to grip and the rotation is weak and slow. When it’s supposed to spin after spilling water, it just beeps and then stop. When I restart it it pours in water again to rinse but still makes noise when it tries to rotate/spin.
What can i do?
I have a Samsung top loading washing machine 5 to 6 years old. Recently I found that motor is running but not spinning. I try to swing by hand and again try. It moves but very slow and gradually increases the speed. The same situation during the rinsing mode. I am sure motor is perfect. Please let me know what to do for its proper working. I live in remote area and mechanic is not available near this area. May I check it myself? Please guide me.
You are the bomb, it worked, washer would not drain or spin opened and shut 6 times in 2 seconds and it worked. So far so good, that’s crazy. Thank you!!!!!!
Hi Linda,
Since you have stated that the front right lower area of your washer gets hot and it produces a bad smell, we believe this is the motor overheating. The motor that spins the drum is thermally protected, meaning that if the motor gets too hot it will stop working to avoid damaging itself. There may be worn parts that are making the motor have to work harder. The smell may be the motor overheating and or a rubber belt that is not aligned properly and is getting worn out. If you can, remove the lower front panel and inspect inside using a flashlight. Look for any obvious signs of wear and possible loose or missing parts. If you do not find anything wrong, you may want to try and reduce the load in your washer as overloading can cause your motor to overheat and shut down.
-RR
I have a Whirlpool top loading washing machine. It is about 8 to 9 years old. If I try to run two loads in succession, the second load will not go into a final spin cycle. I have to let the machine cool down for a couple hours and then it will usually work. There is also a hot smell that comes from the machine and the right lower front of the cabinet gets very warm.
Hello EI,
Try one more thing before we research further… Can you run a small load of clothing on a short wash cycle with NO detergent? Please observe and let us know the result.
Also your Kenmore Model # would be great.
Thanks,
-RR
Hi again,
Well, you are exactly right. There was the “suds” code appearing also, but by checking the book guide of the washer itself I noticed that I might have used more detergent (I am always using “he” detergent) than I needed, so I started to reduce the amount of detergent to fix that problem, I am still using very little detergent so that the “suds” code doesn’t appear again, and it doesn’t, but the “nd” code keeps on appearing. What is the next step I should take?
Hi EI,
We are going to research this further… but a quick question to you is… could it be possible that the washer may have “Excessive Sudsing” when the clothes are in it? You say the washer works fine without clothes, so we assume there is no soap in the machine at that time. Did you change your laundry detergent lately? Excessive soap bubbles or suds will cause your machine to do exactly as you have described.
-RR
Hi,
I checked the drain hose and the pump (it showed 15 ohms resistance), so it seems everything is fine with them. I still have the same issue as before and now I even noticed that the problem with the “nd” code error happens when the rinse operation starts every time, no matter what cycle I choose, such as “normal”, bedding”, “delicate” etc. What I don’t understand is that how comes the washer functions normally when there are no clothes in it and it doesn’t function properly when there are clothes in it. What do you suggest me to do?
By the way, the washer is electronic/digital and it does not have the “end of cycle” button.
Thank you so much for your help.
Hi El,
If you have a brand new washing machine, it is unlikely any of the internal components are faulty.
FIRST THING, since you did a test with no clothing in the washer, now try a small load of clothing as a test and see what happens.
The issue of code ND = NOT DRAINING sounds like something is blocking the washer from draining in the drain hose or the pump itself. If your machine is brand new, the first thing to do is call the company you purchased it from. See if they can come out for free and troubleshoot your problem. If not and you are on your own here, then here is just a suggestion….
Press the “end of cycle” button to get the machine to go back into “normal” mode. Unplug the washer from the power outlet. Remove the panel on the back and locate the black drain pipe. (You may need a bucket or shop vac to catch the water if the machine did not drain). Remove the clamp holding the drain pipe on the pump. See if there is anything lodged in the drain pipe. Also look into the pump with a flashlight and see if there is anything obstructing the water from being pumped out. (This is what we recommend based on the fact that it is a new machine and assuming all the internal components are working properly)
-RR
Hello,
I have Kenmore front load new washer. The problem I am recently facing with it is that it stops in mid-cycle, that is half-way through a regular cycle. It does not drain and spin the clothes and an “ND” error code appears in the end, and it stays like that with hours if I don’t stop the washer myself. Today I did a test of the washer by starting it without any clothes and there was no problem at all. Can you please tell me what might the problem be and how can I fix it?
Thank you in advance.
Hi CC,
When the mashing machine goes into spin mode at the END of the cycle, there is probably excessive water in the drum.
Sometimes the pump and or drain line may have something blocking it. With the older washing machines it may not stop the spin cycle towards the end because it knows there is excessive water in the drum.
You should check and make sure nothing is blocking the drain line and also the pump that pumps the water out.
There can be coins or other items that are in the pump or drain line that may be blocking it.
So, if it is possible, check out the items above and hopefully it will resolve your fault.
-RR
Hello,
I have an old top load washer. When it is spinning at the end of each cycle, it runs extra long. I usually have to stop it and it always stops fast and hard. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Cc
Hi JJ-
Make sure the lid closes properly and that the “lid catch” is activating. If for some reason it does not make a connection, then the washer will just fill with water and do nothing after that.
*OR*
Sometimes when washing clothing, a coin or similar item can become lodged in the bottom of the drum and become jammed therefore preventing the drum from spinning or agitating. Look in the bottom of the washer and see if anything may be stuck and jamming the drum.
*OR*
Since you said you overloaded it, the extreme vibration and or force of an off balance spinning drum CAN loosen the motor, motor components or the wiring. So unplug your washer and remove the front panel and inspect inside the washer. Look to see if the motor coupling may have somehow come off, become disconnected or similar. We have seen motors loosen and short out, or loose wires in the washer that simply came unattached from the constant vibration.
If the 3 remedies do not work for you, please let us know the Model of your washer and we can look deeper into your issue.
Thanks,
-RR
I have a HE (high efficiency) top loading washer. It was overloaded. When I went to start a new load it filled but did not start agitating or start the cycle. It won’t drain either. Have tried resetting the motor and still nothing.
Hi Michael,
With most Beko Washing Machines, if the load of clothing is too BIG (overloaded), the washer will not spin. The computer control board senses a load imbalance and or overload, and will abort the spin cycle. Before you try and replace any components or call a repair service, run a normal load of clothing in the washer but reduce the amount of clothes by about 30 to 40%. Do this just to test if the computer board is faulty and or sensing an overload. When the computer boards go bad or are on the fritz, the problem you have described may occur. So run a few different size loads and observe. If the problem is constant, ordering a new control board is most likely the best route. There are Beko washing machine parts for you to look at here…. http://www.spares4appliances.co.uk/beko-m49#t275
-RR
Hi,
Beko WM61235 washing machine does not spin when washing, but if there is no load in the machine it works fine, drains and spins as it should. Could you help?
Ruby,
From the fault code the computer board is displaying, F1 means the central electrical control unit (onboard computer) has failed. It looks to us that you have done some research and found this out yourself. We would like to give you further advice so you can repair the washer yourself. Can you give us a model number and year of your Whirlpool washing machine?
-RR
My Whirlpool washing machine, takes in water and when it goes to wash it gives an error fault code. The drum does not spin. The only thing it does is takes in water and when it tries to wash it gives error message F1. Should the control board be replaced? Is there no other solution for it?
Hi
Our Amana front loading washer stopped spinning with 9 minutes to go. We followed your instructions on Master Re-Set and it worked!
Thank you so much.
Carol
Hi Romano,
When the washer tries to go into the spin cycle, this is when it is making the clicking noise?
Also, is the water draining out even though the washer will not spin?
-RR
Hi thanks for the feedback.
Yesterday I went and checked once again and started up the machine and it started it’s normal cycle and I opened the lid of my top loader and the machine came to a stop and when i closed it, it continued to wash and once it came to spin drying the cloths it did not, after every 30sec it makes a ticking noise.
Hi Romano,
If the motor isn’t running, thus not spinning, the lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn’t spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it’s defective, you need to replace it.
*OR*
The motor coupler may be broken. It’s plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
-RR
Hello,
I have a Samsung top load washing machine and when I do a wash, the machine works perfect. The drum works and the cloths washed but one day i got a burning smell coming from the machine and the machine just stopped spin drying. When it comes to spin drying the cloths, the drum does not spin. I have opened the back cover of the machine and the belt is OK. While the back cover was open I viewed the motor and tried spin drying once again and saw that the motor wants to run but does not. Please can you advise what may be wrong.
Hi Beki,
The belts on your Hotpoint Washer can become worn or damaged. Unplug the washer and remove the panel. Check the washer and replace any worn or damaged belts immediately. If you have a broken belt, replace it and check the pulley to make sure it’s not seized. A worn belt will cause the problem you have stated.
-RR
Hi,
My Hotpoint washer dryer works fine but the fast spin doesn’t seem to work. How do I resolve this problem?
-Beki