How do you fix a washer that will will not spin or drain? If your old or new washing machine does not spin we have some diy fix tips below to get it running again. The absolute first thing to do to your washing machine that will not spin or drain (whether it is top loading or front loading) is to perform a “Master Reset” to the washer. This should be completed before taking off parts or removing panels to make sure the computer control is not at fault. To fix your washer yourself, you may need to find your Washing Machine Service Repair manual.
There may be an issue with the “Lid Switch”. Top loading washing machines that have a faulty lid switch will not turn the agitator and the spin cycle will not start. However on some washing machine models it will still agitate but not spin. To properly check this you must remove the lid switch. (The lid switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame.)
The proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the user’s manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure. Or type in your washing machine’s model number and company manufacturer into Google and do a check for “Washing Machine Remove Lid Switch Model# Serial#”.
Remember to unplug your washer before you begin any testing or repairs. Once the switch is removed keep the wires coming from the washer attached to it so you can test it with a digital multimeter. Press the button on the switch to simulate closing the lid. When you have the lid CLOSED (button pressed in), the switch should have continuity. When the lid is OPEN (button not pressed in), the switch should have no continuity. If the switch does not have continuity when pressed in, the lid switch needs to be replaced. Find your washing machine lid switch. If the lid switch is functioning properly, go to the next step.
Another common item to go bad in your washer is the “Water Level Control / Pressure Switch”. This is usually always the defective part when your washing machine pumps the water out but will not spin and also when the water overflows on your washer. You can check this yourself by removing the 4 screws that hold the control panel in place. Once removed you will see the Water Level Control Valve.
To identify it look for the part with the small plastic tube attached to it. Once identified, pull the plastic hose off the water level switch and blow air into it. If the tube is clogged with soapy residue, then you can try forcing vinegar down the tube and in the switch itself by using a turkey baster as this will dissolve the soapy residue. If the switch is visibly cracked or burned you will need to replace it. To replace this switch, the proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the user’s manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure. Or type in your washing machine model number and company manufacturer into Google and do a check for “Washing Machine Remove Replace WLC Pressure Switch Model# Serial#”.
“Washer Drive Belt / Spin Belt on Front and Top Load Washers”
In most TOP LOAD WASHING MACHINES the washer drive belt connects the drive motor to the washer transmission. In most FRONT LOAD WASHING MACHINES the drive motor connects to the wash basket. When your washer is not spinning, check the drive belt for damage, rips, over stretched, or has fallen off. If the belt is in good condition be sure you check that the idler pulley and or glide on the motor is working correctly and is able to move as designed.
On TOP LOAD WASHING MACHINES be sure the pulley on the transmission turns in the spin and agitate positions.
Check that there is nothing hindering the agitator or wash basket movement.
If something is hindering the agitator or wash tub from turning or moving, this can cause the washer belt on the pulley to SLIP and therefore not spin. Make sure to inspect for oil drips or any water leaking on the pulleys or the washer belt that could cause any slippage and therefore not spin properly.
On FRONT LOAD WASHING MACHINES use your hand and be sure the tub will turn freely. Using the exact replacement washing machine belt is critical as the size, length, and width will help to run your front load washer as designed. If the belt is slightly longer, slippage can occur and the washer may not spin on certain cycles or wash load sizes.
If the above troubleshooting procedures are not what you need then have a look at the “Washing Machine Quick Check Fix Guide” below to get help finding the cause of your problem.
Washing machine will not spin on the spin cycle
Question: My Top Load Whirlpool washing machine will not spin on the spin cycle for the regular wash anymore. It will spin if I put it on the pre soak setting and then all it does is fill up with water and drain when it goes into the actual “spin” cycle. Both cycles will not agitate the clothes. Will I need to buy a new one or is there hope in saving my washer?
Answer 1 – Sounds like the coupling as that is usually the bad part in most Whirlpool models for the problem you are describing. The Whirlpool washer has no belts and is a direct drive gearbox. The motor coupling was a weak plastic part which has been replaced with a steel coupling as a direct replacement. However, if the washer does spin on pre soak then it could be a bad switch. There should be repair information online for your model that can help you figure it out.
Answer 2 – Our washing machine had spin troubles also. It is a Kenmore front loading washer and only 1 year old. Try going on the Appliance Repair Questions website. Those guys are very helpful and some of them are actual appliance technicians that answer your questions free. We got advice and fixed our washer by replacing the motor control board which was about $130 online.
Answer 3 – If it spins on one setting but not another, then it would seem to me that it’s one of two things…
A – If it was a motor issue or a mechanical issue then it wouldn’t spin AT ALL. Seems more to be a control panel issue. It may be the timer itself. Test the timer.
B – Your particular brand of washer may have a sort of interlock or fail safe that prevents it from spinning if something else isn’t right in the system. Possibly a clogged drain or a pump not pumping? If the washer fills at a certain rate and it drains at a certain rate then this is probably not the cause. Do some tests and find out.
Get a wiring and parts diagram and look at the wiring on your washer and find out what leads to what to trace and test the components with a multimeter. Make sure those functions are turning on when they should.
If you still need help, assistance, or answers to fix your Washing Machine Won’t Spin or Drain problem, ask the
experts over at Appliance Repair Questions for free answers to fix your broken appliance!
Hi,
I have a MAYTAG Top loader model # MAV5000AWW doesnt spin out in whites or color cycle it will in delicate cycle. i have to keep spinning the knob and pulling it out. i hear the click and it cycles around just doesnt do anything anymore. please help
my ge front loader washer wount spin as soon as i put it to wash it throws water n then drains it iy never washes please help
OMG I thought I was going to have to buy another washer (which I can’t afford). After resetting my washer following these steps, my machine is back up and running smoothly. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Hi guys,
My top loader wont wash or spin properly. It makes a grating noise on wash, sounds like its on one direction of the agitator. On spin cycle the agitator spins hard but the bowl goes slowly, balling up the clothes and not spinning them.
What can I do as a self fix?
Thanks, Peter
Hi, I too have a GE washer WWA8364VLLwh, (top loader) has been very reliable. Hadn’t used it for about 3 weeks, and now –it fills (in all “modes”) but then stops, will buzz every one-two minutes or so, clicks, and then nothing. I do hear it clicking (not buzzing) occasionally too. I’ve tried both the “normal” and “gentle” cycle.
Will not spin, agitate, or empty. I tried the reset trick, no luck.
I’ll get the manual to figure out how to check the lid switch..which you’re suggesting is my next step? (does check the lid switch mean — replace it to check it?)
And then check the drive belt? (which I don’t believe I’ve ever replaced.) Machine is almost 26 years old… and has light-medium use (one person only.)
When I spoke to GE they said (of course) — replace the machine. It’s probably the motherboard or the motor, and parts aren’t available.
Thank you so much for your help!
Hey guys
My samsung ww75j4213iw bubblewash7.5 has a smashed door glass. I bought the new glass but I’m having trouble taking the cover off the back of the door as it isn’t screwed.
Any idea how I would go about this ? Cheers. Johnny
Thank you for this, got me back up and running in 1 minute flat!
My Whirlpool washine machine Model#2DLS07533J02 was not spinning and the pump was replaced about a month ago but the problem has recurred. can you help?
My 5 kg front load Samsung washing machine is showing 1E error. How to attend it.
door piece broke off. Now twin tub machine spinner refuses to spin. LG twin tub
I have a maytag bravos quiet series 300 it fills up with water then it stops on wash cycle with a flashing message “F:54”.
Please help me figure out what the issue is?
I have a 10 year old Matag top load washer and goes into spin cycle as soon as it’s turned on in any any cycle, why?
Thanks so much the washing machine reset worked!
I have a 10 year old Maytag Top load
Washing machine. The washer is spinning in spin mode but it will no longer get all the water out of the clothes when done. Can you help
Hi , my LG front loader washing machine wd80154 i replaced the bearing set for drum,one of the motor bearing and carbon brushes, I have checked the motor’s field winding resistance (pin 1 and 5) give 1.1 ohms , (pin 1 and 10) give 1.2 ohms and (pin 5 and 10) give 2.2 ohms the problem is the motor sometimes not turns to right or left unless i try to turn it and of course this is without belt means without load the other thing when it runs I hear a sound (tek) from the motor and it stops working for a very short time and the PCB starts with a beep sound several times without a fault code and then returns to the first turn or problem, Please any advice on how to proceed
Twinmaid 1300 washing machine “spin dryer” is not spinning.
What could be the problem?
This is the problem I am having with my Whirlpool front load washer.
What do I have to look at?
THANK YOU for saving my washing machine! I am going on a trip tomorrow and it shut down in the middle of the wash cycle. Followed your master reset instructions and they worked like a charm.
I pulled the drain impeller and found a sock from my little guy stuck in there. Fixed!
I am having the same problem with my Whirlpool. If you ended up finding a solution, please let me know. I am about to check drainage system as suggested.
Thanks!
My Maytag ga108 will spin but won’t drain all the way.
I’ve already checked hoses and pump nothing is stuck.
Any ideas as how to dismantle a program timer of a Bompani BO 05205 Washing Machine from the front Panel please.? Thanks!
My Hotpoint washing machine doesn’t appear to be spinning correctly? It isn’t spinning at the correct speed from what I can see and whenever I take the clothes out they are dripping wet still? I have tried to put them on a spin after the wash but they are still sopping wet? Do you know what this could be? Or what I can do to find the fault?
A follow-up — I never managed to disassemble the washer, but in using it I’ve noticed something that may help pinpoint the problem. It still stops randomly during the rinse and spin cycles, sometimes rinsing but not spinning/draining, sometimes not rinsing but spinning… But in if I pull the knob out just a little bit, not all the way, and kind of nudge it in and out gently, the washer will usually start doing what it’s supposed to be doing. So maybe it’s the knob? thanks
I have a the same brand of washer and it’s doing the same thing!
My Whirlpool washer will only fill up so far but the water keeps running and won’t start washing, what could it be?
I have a Kenmore washer dryer combo that is not working . I had a load of laundry in the washer and it started becoming off balance. Tried hitting the pause button but it didn’t want to stop. After panicking for a minute, it finally stopped. I rebalanced the load and turned it back on. Everything seemed fine and it acted like the wash cycle was over. I waited almost an hour before trying to run another load. The lid lock clicks and locks, and it sounds like it is starting, but after a minute it shuts down and the timer beeps. I removed the front cover and can’t see anything wrong except for there is a part, I believe to be part of the motor still rotating, and very slowly might I add. Trying to fix this on my own without having to call a service tech out. The unit is only a few months old.
Frigidaire Crown Series – Model FWXB45RGS1
My machine goes thru all the cycles but does not spin – there was mild-moderate odor of burning rubber. Is this machine worth fixing?
michael coyne,
Is the motor running on your Hotpoint washer?
If not, check to be sure it is getting power.
If it IS getting power and the motor does NOT run, than the motor has an issue.
Check to be sure there is not a thermal reset button on the motor.
If you replaced the brushes then you most likely checked out the complete motor.
Replace motor if it is faulty.
If the motor is in working order, but does not receive power, then there is an issue with the control panel or a wiring issue.
Please troubleshoot further and let us know what you find faulty on your Hotpoint Washer.
-RR
I have a Hotpoint wm22 Washing Machine.
It will fill with water and drains ok, but the drum will not move from start to finish.
I have replaced the carbon brushes even though they looked fine.
Is there anything else i can check before calling out an engineer?
I have the same problem, and yes it works on all cycles but the rinse. When it starts to drain/spin during rinse cycle it only spins slowly with water still in it. So when it is done spinning clothes are still wet and it the bottom of washer instead of up on the sides. Spins fine on last spin cycle. I have an automatic softener basket that won’t release the softener because it doesn’t spin enough to release it during spin cycle. What can I do to fix this?
My Whirlpool top load washer will not spin even though it makes the spinning sound. It drains the water but the clothes are still partially soaked.
Ser # CS2801078
Model# L8N2000PG3
Sian Norbury,
Depending on what model number your Zanussi washing machine is, check the lid switch, or the door switch to be sure it is working properly.
-RR
My Ikea integrated washing machine does full wash cycle but not the spin. Even when I set it to just a spin programme it won’t spin in both cases a red light comes on on the start button. Any suggestions I have no idea where to start.
I have a Zanussi washing machine, it was working perfectly fine then all of a sudden it wont spin. Am I going have to get a new one?
Nancy T.,
Most likely on a Top Loading Maytag Washing Machine if you smell something burning during the spinning cycle, you probably have a worn out belt.
Unplug washer and open the service panel.
Use a flashlight and have a look inside.
You will most likely see a shredded rubber belt.
If this is the case, order a new belt for your Maytag washer and install it yourself.
If it is not a belt issue, please let us know and please supply us with the model number off your Maytag washer.
-RR
I have a Maytag top load washer, during the rinse while in the spinning process it started to make a weird noise and smoke started to come out. I turned off the washing machine and notice that it was not spinning and did not rinse. I’m scared to even try it again to see if it works because of the smoke and burning smell.
I was an electronic tech for 34 years, working on IC circuitry, then computers for many years. The statement that John from Canada made about handling the computer control board with care is correct, but he is mistaken when he says to make sure you are not grounded. The reverse is true. Static discharge into the circuit components is the potential computer chip killer, so touching a grounded panel on the machine while handling the old board, but especially the new one, will discharge any residual static charge you may have developed on your skin, and prevent an arc from jumping to a component on the board.
Thanks for the info. My GE washer wasn’t spinning. Thanks to you I fixed the Lid switch myself saving $$$!
Our Kenmore series 80 washer has erratic behavior.. mostly after wash cycle it will fill for rinse and empty, or fill for ever…sometimes on wash cycle it won’t get past fill..on short cycles it will was and may or may not rinse..during wash, when it washes, it will agitate and spin… Seems like timer.
Andrea,
If the Roper top load washer hums when it should spin, and the washer will not drain, you may have 2 issues.
First check that the drain pump, drain hose, and wall drain are free of debris.
The washer may not spin properly if the drain system is not operable.
Once you are sure the washer drain pump, drain lines, wall drain, and drain hose is okay, run a test wash.
If the washer hums but now drains, you fixed one issue.
If the washer still hums, you may have a bad belt, motor coupler, motor itself, etc…
Check parts for wear and replace as necessary.
-RR
I have a Roper by Whirlpool top load washing machine and it fills with water. When it’s supposed to start agitating it just makes a humming noise then it will go through the timer cycles and won’t drain but once it got to the rinse cycle it fills up with more water and overflows and won’t do a spin cycle either it just hums.
SER: CL 2004884
MOD: RAB2121KW0
Tim,
Depending on the model number of your used Whirlpool washer, (if it will not spin or drain) you could have a bad lid switch, drain pump and hose may be clogged, jammed, or faulty.
What is the model number?
-RR
I have bought Whirlpool washer from a guy that promised it works great. Well it doesn’t… Had trouble getting it to fill and wash. I kept working with it and finally it filled and washed… Then it will not spin or drain… I need help. Where I bought this second hand I don’t know the history of this washer… help!
Let me add a reply to my previous post. I had purchased a new Drain Pump for my washing machine and replaced it. However, this didn’t help at all sadly. It drains all the water from the container still but there’s still what sounds like some water “in between” that just won’t come out. I believe it’s the reason why the spin cycle won’t work. The agitator works, but once it goes into spin, I have to take out all the clothes by hand and wring them out myself as although the water has drained, they just won’t spin.
I have an LG F1480QDS front loader it has developed an IE fault which is not allowing it to fill properly so I have replaced the solenoid valves ,replaced the pressure sensor switch checked the vacuum hose and repaired small hole with a hose joiner stripped and cleaned entire machine and replaced hall switch on motor but still have IE code come up when trying to use machine also timer does not count down past the first two minutes so am thinking maybe a control board or programmer issue.
Thank you!
I can’t even tell you how old my washer is but this was a quick fix and I cannot be thankful enough.
I own a GE top load washing machine. As of late, it seems to agitate the clothes, but when it goes into spin cycle, the water seems to drain while the clothes at the bottom stay soaked. It will not spin, and it sounds as though even though there’s no water in the receptacle where the clothes go itself, it sounds like if I manually turn the container, I can hear some water sloshing around inside. Not sure what the best thing to do will be at this point, as the washing machine seems to drain all water from the clothes receptacle, but given that it sounds like water is still within another compartment within the machine, it may be the reason why it does not want to spin, almost as though the water is slowing down any chance of it spinning.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. Wasn’t sure if I try to drain it from the back, if this water “in between” the receptacle and machine will come out of the same area, or what may be the reason that there’s still some water in another compartment causing resistance to the spin cycle. I’ve gotten it to spin before, but sounds like depending on the amount of water “in between”, is what may cause it to not spin at times more often than those few times it does spin to wring out the clothes.
I have a Kenmore 80 series top load washer. It seems to run through the regular cycle but will not rinse, drain or spin. It makes a strange clicking sound on the rinse cycle like it’s trying to drain, but nothing happens. I tried fiddling with the lid switch and a time or two the agitator did a flicker of a rotation before it shut off. Does this mean I should replace lid switch or could there be more problems with it also just clicking and not draining?
Lana,
Check wiring, check drain hose, check to be sure all drain lines in the washer are not blocked.
Does new pump get power?
Does the new pump run at all?
-RR
I have the Haier HLP2121n 1 cubic ft top loader and it just stopped draining – machine starts, goes through the wash cycle, and stops – no noises, no beeps (if we turn off the machine the water drains normally, so the hose is not obstructed). First time that happened we figured pump was the issue so we took the machine apart and glued/fixed the pump, and it helped for one-two washes, bun then stopped draining again, so we got a new pump – but it still doesn’t drain! I’m at my wits’ end…
Charlie,
The FE error code on your Samsung is telling you that a FAN ERROR has been detected.
Since we do not have your model number, Google your model number for where the fan is located and how to get at it to check it.
-RR
I have a Samsung wash and dry front load machine that only washes and spins, but when it gets to the drying point, an error code (FE) pops up and it stops operating. Please how can i resolve this problem.
Clementine Baragry,
There may be an item stuck in the drain pump.
If a washer is overloaded, at times a small item may pass through and get jammed in the pump, and with some washers, the washer will not do anything if this is the case.
Is the drain pump being energized?
Have you checked the door switch or lid switch to be sure it is working properly?
Is the tub or drum off center?
Possibly the motor overheated and time is needed for it to cool off. If you overloaded the washer and try another wash too soon, it may be because the washer motor is thermally protected and it has reset itself until it cools off.
Let us know what you find.
-RR
Thank you for your response. The washer stopped I emptied it, it was heavily overloaded. It started agitating a little when it was emptied but I opened it and then when I closed it again it wouldn’t do anything I tried unplugging it for 5 min. I tried opening and closing the lid 6 times in 12 seconds. I tried running a cycle with nothing. I am pretty sure it is getting power, the dryer works and there is only one plug for both.
Clementine Baragry,
When your Maytag washer was overloaded, did you have to stop the washer and remove the items during a cycle, or did you let it run the complete cycle overloaded and the washer finished?
Is the washer getting power?
Did you get any blinking lights or errors after the overload?
Have you tried unplugging the washer for 5 minutes?
Is it possible the extreme off balance may have loosened a wiring harness or balancers on the tub off?
Check under the washer to see if there is any parts that have fallen off.
If nothing, unplug washer and be sure all wiring harnesses are connected.
-RR
My daughter overloaded my washer and now will not spin drain or agitate won’t really do anything at all now. I have tried resetting it , and running a cycle with nothing in it. My washer is a washer dryer combo, Maytag commercial duty dependable care heavy duty large capacity intellidry control model # LSG7806AAE
Daniel,
Maybe possible bad faulty LID SWITCH. The lid switch may work intermittently. Test it to be sure that is not what is causing the issue.
If the lid switch is in good condition, check the motor coupler as it may be worn out and causing the problem.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 90 Series washer that will get all the way to the rinse cycle (usually fills with water) but eventually will not spin and drain. It makes an electrical noise like it’s trying to. If you take the basin and spin it around manually from inside and then depress the lid switch, it sometimes will start back up and finish the cycles out. I had something in the entry to the pump about a month ago and it ran fine for weeks after. Any ideas before I just buy a new one?
Shawn,
If the Samsung washer just stops mid cycle either it is overloaded, has a bad board, may have a loose wire harness somewhere, or senses an imbalance. If you smell electrical smell and the washer hums, then the drive motor and components may be binding up or a faulty part could be the cause.
Open the washer up and have a look visually with the washer unplugged.
Let us know the model number.
-RR
I have a Samsung front load washer. Not sure the model number. If I just hit spin it will spin. Starts slow with a humming noise then it kicks in and runs. Then I hit a quick cycle and it fills and spins some and then about halfway through it just stops. The water is still in the bottom and it smells like electrical burning and the spin motor is humming any ideas? Thank you.
I did recheck, the model number is SW12E1. That’s written !!
Yes did open the lid and try to assist it , but it wont start spinning.
It seems like it wants to start spinning, but will stop, it does this 3 times !!
Its like is getting stuck with something that is preventing it from spinning !!
Kayla,
Check lid switch assembly for proper operation both mechanically and electrically.
-RR
Brett,
Check the wiring harness on the shifter. It may be damaged or loose.
Also check the motor sensor. It detects the rpm of the basket and actuates between agitate and spin for the motor.
The issue you are having may be a basket speed sensor fault.
When the lid lock flashes red, all it’s indicating is there is an error somewhere in the system, it doesn’t mean it’s necessarily the lid lock.
-RR
Dionel Cornelia,
Please recheck the Model number of your Samsung washer as the one you provided is not valid.
If the washer fills with water, but has a difficult time turning, it could be a number of things such as a belt, transmission, clutch, motor coupler, etc…
When the washer tries to spin, can you open the lid and assist it by moving it with your hand? If you try this, does the tub begin spinning?
Let us know the model number and describe in more detail what the washer is doing.
-RR
I have a Samsung SW12e1 model top loader washer. After the filling water process is done, it wont start spinning, the motor does sound and does like it wants to spin, but then get stuck, it does this 3 times and then stops. Any solution?
My Kenmore washer 110.21102010 stopped working. I learned how to enter the diagnostic mode. In manual mode the spin cycle/agitate will not work and the wash, spin, cycle complete and lid lock just flash. The other functions appear to work as they should. I did observe the shift actuator moving but the motor will not start the cycles. Any help is greatly appreciated!
I have a Samsung top load washer wa40j3000aw/a2 it fills up with water but will not drain or spin
Chris,
We need the model number of your AMANA washer before we can suggest an parts to replace or check.
-RR
Linda,
My Maytag about the same age is doing the same thing. Did you ever get a reply that explained the problem?
Thanks
I have an Amana top load washer. Not sure of the model #, but it’s a few yrs old. But here’s what it is doing- sometimes the lid won’t lock(tried the reset) but it will fill up w/ water. And sometimes the lid will lock, be sensing the load, then stop. The lid will stay locked, but the lid lock light will be flashing. Hopefully it’s some simple.
John,
Something may be binding up when it gets to the rinse cycle.
Clutch issue, Motor issue, Motor coupler issue, Pulley issue, Out of alignment issue, Transmission issue?
Have you checked these parts?
What was the issue before you replaced the dog ears?
-RR
Thank you. Saved my day.
I have a Whirlpool washing machine.
Model wtw5500sq0 and I just recently replaced the dog ears for the agitator to work which was successful.
Now the machine is stopping on all rinse cycles and makes a buzzing sound until i stop the cycle. Any ideas?
Sean,
Can you explain “Amana washer was working fine until the water was shut off by the dirt”?
What is the model number of your Amana washer?
If the DOOR LOCK BUTTON FLASHES, this means there is an issue with the door lock.
The door lock may be faulty, or it may not be closed properly.
-RR
I have an Amana front load washer that was working fine until the water was shut off by the dirt mid wash. We unplugged it and left for an hour – when we apply power, there is no display on the front panel, door lock button flashes and we hear a pump running dry. Pressing any button or holding it does not work. What do you think? Control board issue? Can’t open it or see any error codes – no display.
Sherry,
Can you supply us with the Maytag washing machine model number so we can assist you in what part that may need to be replaced?
-RR
I have a Maytag washer that is about 20 years old. It has recently been hard to start on certain settings [as in you would have to turn it several times and keep pulling the big knob back in and out}. Now it has stopped running at all except for agitation on the permanent press selection and will not drain or go into spin. You can still hear the timer clicking along but nothing happening.
CLM,
Please supply us with the model number of your Maytag and we will assist further.
Do you get an error code or any indication of an error?
Does the washer flash the led lights when it is trying to spin to signify an exact issue?
-RR
I tried the “master reset” trick on my Amana front load washer, which at first I thought sounded a little hokey….but oh my goodness! IT WORKED!! The washer was not spinning, would only do a slow tumble. Thanks so much for these tips!!
I have a Maytag front loader 2000 series that’s stopped spinning. I tried the reset trick, but that didn’t work. I don’t want to spend much to repair it, so I’m hopeful there’s something I could check myself to see if I can fix it. Otherwise, I’m just going to replace it.
Jakob,
If the drive belt on your Haier Washer is worn out, that is most likely the reason your washer will not always spin. Replace it with this part here… Haier Washing Machine Drive Belt
-RR
Phillip Deering,
Since your GE washer is a top load, check the lid switch. This IS the most likely cause of a top load washer to NOT SPIN OR AGITATE.
-RR
I have a GE washer model # GTWN3000MWS. Will not agitate or spin.
I have a Haier HLP21N Pulsator washing machine – 1 cubic foot top loader. The machine washes and drains but does only very occasionally spin. When it is time to spin it makes a sound as if it is trying to start spinning, but never manages to begin. I have taken away the bottom and the drive belt looks very worn out. Do you think its the belt or something else? Thanks a lot!
Zafar,
Baumetic Washing Machine Error Code E1 = Water not draining
PROBLEM:
Drainage pipe is kinked or blocked so the water cannot be drained
SOLUTION:
The drain pipe is located above 90 cm from the ground
Open the lid after the drum has stopped spinning and check the drainage pipe
Here is the Baumetic Washing Machine Owners Manual to further assist you.
-RR
I have a washing Machine named Baumetic and model BWM 51. From last week rinsing and spinning is not working and the error showing is E1. Can you help me to solve this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Bob,
Any error codes or flashing errors shown? You may be overloading the washer and therefore it senses that and pauses intermediately… Can you give us the model number?
-RR
Gemma Greenwood,
If your Beko washer is making a grinding noise, most likely that means there is a broken part in the washer and it needs to be replaced. Here is the service manual for the BEKO WM74155LW washer to assist you in finding the issue.
-RR
Darin Schella,
Does the tub on your Kenmore washer run normally on all cycles except the “rinse” cycle?
-RR
I have a Maytag 2000 series front load washer that doesn’t want to run large heavy loads anymore without stopping during wash cycle was wondering if you knew what the problem might be?
Kenmore 110-28692700
Tub doesn’t spin during rinse cycle, can move by hand. Water does drain out, but leaves clothes soaked. Pumps works fine. Coupler is in great shape. Clutch is new and still in new shape. Lines are clean. Brake system seems to be working, hard to spin one way, but easier the other way when engaging that ‘switch’. At odds as what it can be. Viewed video of timer switch, so gonna check that out, even though the timer also seems to working fine. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Beko WM74155 LW, It wont spin :(
At the start of a spin and drain you can hear a grind like it wants to but nothing happens.
No further sound apart from the draining sound.
Jewel,
You have to give your Kenmore top load washer a manual hand spin so the basket spins during a wash cycle? Do you hear any type of grinding or clicking noises?
If you need to spin by hand, the motor coupler, belt, or clutch could be bad. You will need to remove the panel and check internally for damaged parts.
Usually this is a coupler that is bad. It is inexpensive and will not take very long to remove and replace.
You will need to look inside the washer to be absolutely sure which part to replace.
-RR
I have a Kenmore washer top loader, model 110 24692300. It won’t spin. I opened the lid, and manually pressed the lid button down to see what happens, and then gave the basket a spin manually and it spins that way. However as soon as you release the button while holding it and it stops, close the lid and it won’t spin again unless you manually move the basket itself. Any idea why?
Karl Hiller,
We would recommend to unplug the washer and take it apart as it seems to have an internal issue. If after your Kenmore 70 washer got through one cycle and you had to manually turn the knob for it to proceed into the next cycle and you heard humming, this means something may be binding up, possibly the belt is bad, pulley, motor, clutch, or transmission. You need to take it apart and troubleshoot from there. You will perobably see an obvious issue once it is disassembled.
-RR
Amazing job answering questions here, thanks. We have an old Kenmore (70 series, model 110) top-loader that keeps ending cycles with anywhere from 3 inches to a foot of water still in it. So to try to analyze what was going on, I ran a large load of laundry with a wide pencil stuck down into the lid switch hole, and the lid open. I stayed in the basement working on other things until I heard the washer stop. It was all the way to the end of the cycle, with a foot of water in it. So I turned the knob around to the start of the spin cycle and activated the washer; it drained the water and sat there humming, without any spinning. I pulled the pencil out and the washer stopped, and the drum kind of jolted a little, like some force on it had stopped suddenly. I put the pencil back in, and it started spinning and finished the spin cycle normally. Does this point to any specific thing that I should check out first?
I have Samsung top loader. When the clothes are about to spin the washer shakes thus not allowing the clothes to spin. So, I thought I had too many clothes loaded. I used less but it still does the same thing. 58 mins ends up 3hrs later. Even tried spin mode alone and it still does the same thing.
I have a Whirlpool top load washer model #LSR8433KQ2, Series -CR1308542, Type-111. It will wash and agitate but will not spin on any cycle sometimes if I take my hand and start it will spin but it make take up to multiple times to get it going. I have tried to reset it but still no luck. Some have said it could be my belt and others said I don’t have a belt not sure and didn’t want to have to pull out and look just to see, as It is in a tight space.
Marisa Rodriguez,
Most likely your Kenmore top load washer has a drain clog issue or the drain hose may be clogged or bent. Check the draining components and most likely you will find a clog that can be removed and will fix your washer.
-RR
My Kenmore top load washer will Wash, rinse but will not drain or spin. Ive tried the master reset. I dont really know what my next step shall be. Any guidence would be helpful.
Thank you! I thought maybe I was being pranked with the “open and shut the door six times within 12 seconds.” Part but the reset worked. Thank you so much.
The serial number is (S) 10837549GP. I replaced the parts because the washer was not working properly. After the entire wash cycle, the clothes were soaking wet while the water was all drained out. Also during the agitation process, it was making a grinding noise. So I figured that it was probably a bad bearing. I ordered the Hub and Seal Kit and replaced the parts. The old bearing was a bit rough. But when I turned it on, the entire belt got burned right before the first agitation. So I took it all apart, applied more grease to it and it looked fine. The inner top was turning freely when the belt was not on. Then when I put the belt on, I first tried to see if it would spin. I put the machine into extended spin. It was spinning beautifully. I put the screw driver into the slot to make the machine think that the top door is shut so that I could watch the entire cycle. The water got filled and when it was ready to agitate, I only heard the motor pulley spinning and burning the belt. I could smell it. I turned it off right away not to destroy another belt.
Mario,
Recheck every part inside the washer to see what is making it bind up and burn the belt. Why did you replace the parts? After you replaced the parts, are you having the exact same issue? What is the serial number of your washer?
-RR
The machine is unplugged and turned off to make sure it does not burn the belt. When I try to turn the agitator to the right by hand (clockwise), it does not turn. However, when I turn it to the left (counterclockwise) it only turns the upper portion of the agitator but not the lower part.
I don’t know if this matters at all but when I try to turn the inner tub to the left or right, it will not turn. However, when I turn the transmission pulley, it does turn the inner tub. This is all by hand.
Mario,
Be sure the bearings are installed properly. If the washer will not agitate and the belt “burns” off when it tries to run, there is something holding up the agitator such as a bad or wrong installation of the bearings. You could also have a transmission issue. What happens when you turn the agitator by hand when the washer is not on?
-RR
I have a Maytag MAV4758AWW. It would spin and drain but would finish with the clothes sopping wet. I replaced two of the three bearings (one had a small dent and did not spin freely). However, after reassembling the washer and testing it out, it now burns/shreds the drive belt during the agitate portion of the cycle (the motor runs and turns the motor pulley but the agitator does not turn, burning the belt). However, it works fine during the spin portion of the cycle – no damage to the drive belt. Can you suggest what to do next? Thank you very much.
Joan Morgan,
If you replaced a bad lid switch and it still will not work, make sure the lid switch is making contact with the lid plunger. If it is wired properly, and the washer will still NOT SPIN, you will have to remove power and open the washer up to find the exact fault. Let us know what you find.
-RR
I have a Kenmore washer model number 11020802991 the lid switch burned out and I replaced it but it still won’t spin and it smells hot is there anything I can do? Thanks
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! My washer wasn’t spinning and I was seeing dollars floating out my window when I found your page. It’s working again! Yay!! You rock!! :-)
Thats awesome tried both reset and pressure swith. It was the switch
I have a Kenmore heavy duty large capacity top loading washer the fills and washes but won’t drain or spin. The tub will not manually turn. My friend said the motor is burnt out. But I would like a second opinion. Thank you. I bought it used and not sure of the age. And my stepson overloaded it one time. And next time it did what I told at the beginning. Thanks again for any suggestions.
Hi
I have an lg top load washing machine that has an intermittent problem. When it gets to the end of the rinse cycle it clicks and then the pump wont start. Ive checked the pump and cleared it out . The hoses arent blocked. I end up dropping the drain hose to the floor dtain to empty it. I turn it off and on set it to spin and it works .
Anthony,
Be sure the correct switch was installed and that it was installed correctly. If you continue to have issues it may be a simple wire harness that is causing your issue but further troubleshooting will be needed.
-RR
I have a Lg direct drive washer. It was flashing code PE, looked it up and it was a pressure/ sensor switch had gone bad. I ordered and replaced the part. Started a load and it almost completed a full cycle before stopping at 6 minutes remaining and was flashing PE once again. Please help!
We bought our Affinity fl used about 5 years ago and had to repair it twice. It has since quit spinning and rather than get it fixed again we bought a new tl Maytag. The Affinity was never really much of a problem, just kind of so-so. A used washer for $200 that lasts 5 years is better than most I’m sure. Hopefully our new machine will have our clothes smelling better though. The old one never did though I tried to keep it clean and used expensive detergent and softener. If you get a good deal on a used one, go for it, otherwise try something else.
Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction…
My washing machine will not spin without assistance. I tricked the lid switch to allow me to see inside during spin mode. The motor runs but the barrel only spins if i reach down and give it a spin by hand. I checked the rubber coupler and it seams to be okay.
Is there a belt to tighten? or is the motor shot?
I have a Whirlpool washer 4800XQ2 with a no spin issue. Sometimes it will not spin at all and other times it starts to spin but stops have way thru and receive a lid-lock flashing light. I check the error codes and get a motor not reaching proper rpm and a basket speed issue. I try the manual spin tests and the first time, all is fine. The second time both spin tests fail halfway thru, on a subsequent attempt it just starts to spin and stops right away. I leave it for half hour and the next first attempt the manual spin test works fine. I tested all motor and actuator instructions and everything passes. I read somewhere that an intermittent actuator will give a false lid-lock error. I have verified that the lid-lock works fine during the manual test. The actuator tests also pass although at one point, the tachometer test would fail but has been passing since checking the actuator connections. I have already replaced the control board and synch’d it.
GE Washer Mod # GDSR4110T5WW: Today during the rinse/spin cycle, I could hear the pump running and every 20-30 seconds or so, the lid switch would click and I’d hear a splash of water. I opened the lid to see what was happening, and the clothes were spinning but all of the water was still in the tub! I held down the lid switch with my finger so I could watch it in action. It seems like when the clicking would happen, the spinning would stop, and the water would slosh around in the tub (the splashing sound I heard).
I started a new drain/spin cycle, holding down the switch again so I could watch. This time the pump was running but the water wasn’t going down. It never did spin, and then the end of cycle buzz went off. Help?!
My wife tried washing blanket in the washing machine (do not know why), the cycle started with water but it did not rotate. I guess it is an overload. But could any one help me diagnose this ? As of now if I try to run it empty the cycle starts but the drum does not rotate. Also there are no errors on the screen.
Machine Model – Siemens IQ 300 Verio Perfect.
My may tag top load reset!!! Unplugged and closed lid 12 times lol great saved my life 5+kiddos
Our Kenmore front loader, model # 970-C40052-00, will not perform the final spin, it drains then shuts itself off. This for all cycle options. Tried the reset above and no difference. Any other suggestions please?
Anne Louise,
Check the lid switch as it may have an intermittent issue or the washer is switching it on and off when it is running. What is the model number for your Electrolux Washing Machine?
-RR
We have an Electrolux top load washing machine. Today when it is trying to spin the unlock lid control is cutting in and out and spinning is stopping starting stopping starting faster than I can even say it!
It is beeping at the same time, and cutting in and out. I have unplugged from the wall and left it for quite some time but it is still doing the same thing.
Wow, I had to go all the way through step 3 but it works like a charm. Thank you so much
Just used this site to fix my GE washing machine. Blowing air into the tube of the water level control worked! Machine is spinning again!
Tamarac Geter,
The OL error code on your Kenmore Elite Oasis Washer means an overload has been detected by the main control. If the unit is NOT overloaded, try unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and plugging back in. If this resets it then the issue is gone, if not you may have something blocking the tub, a motor error, a sensor error, control board, etc… Let us know what you find.
-RR
I have a Kenmore elite oasis washer and I used it for the first time in 60 days and towards the end of the cycle I keep getting this error message OL now matter how many items are in there. Is there something I can do to fix it myself.
TY I just did the unplug thing…..did it 2x the second I got my spin back!! Who would of thought!
Charlene Luna,
Can you give us the model number of your Kenmore top load washer? It is located under or on the lid. Also, when you say it shuts off, does the washer actually turn off meaning no power no lights are on? Please describe in detail.
-RR
Need help please on fixing my Kenmore top load washer. It starts of good from the start it Agitate and spins. But when it gets to the rinse cycle it stops making the ticking noise completely and shuts off. How do I fix it?
Laurie,
If you are having to MANUALLY switch it to the rinse cycle, either the control board or the switch is possibly faulty. You will need to open the washer up and test the components to be sure.
However, if the washer is only 5 months old, it should be under warranty. Call Whirlpool and they should send someone out. Your washer is under warranty…
Call Whirlpool at…
US: 1-866-698-2538
Canada: 1-800-688-2002
Hours of Operation:
Monday-Friday: 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM EST
Locate the washers model and serial number before calling.
-RR
Paula,
Can you give us the model number of your Haier washer? We can further assist after we know the exact washer model you have.
-RR
Jovan Estrella,
If you are bypassing the lid switch, is it bypassed correctly? If the washer senses the lid to be open it will not operate properly. What happens after the washer drum moves cw and then ccw for 5 seconds? Does it just sit and count down as normal?
-RR
Joshua Wazelle,
If it is a top load washer, check the lid switch. If it is a front load washer, check to be sure the control board wire harnesses are secure and not damaged. We will need the model number to troubleshoot the problem. Look on the inside of the washer lid or front door for the model number and let us know.
-RR
Hera,
It may be the pump motor, a control board issue, or a loose wire harness. Many times a wire harness will become loose from the vibration and therefore certain parts are unable to work properly. Check all the wire harnesses to be sure they are all connected secure. If they are, then check to be sure the pump motor is getting power. If it is, you may need to replace the pump motor. Also check the control board for loose wire harnesses or a possible burnt spot or obvious signs of damage. Further troubleshooting may be necessary to find the exact part that is malfunctioning.
-RR
We have a Frigidaire Gallery Front Loader Washer. I noticed yesterday that after the wash the spin cycle was not engaging and the water is not draining. We removed the water pump to see if there was anything stuck in it and there is nothing stuck. When the spin cycle is supposed to be engaging there is a clicking sound coming from the pump but no action. Do you think its the pump that needs to be replaced? Should we look at other things? Could it be the Motor?
I have a Maytag washer and the only thing it will do is fill with water. It won’t drain, wash or anything. I tried your master reset and checking the switch. Neither worked. I’m not sure of the year or the model.
I have a GE. GCWP1800D1WW. The washer will not spin or agitate, the lid switch has been by by-passed and resseting the motor does not work. The washer will move the drum clockwise and counter clock wise for about 5 seconds each way for about a minute and then it will stop moving. The led on top of the washer says that it is in normal operation but it will not spin.
I have a Haier washer that doesn’t spin out the clothes. I have tried the reset that was mentioned earlier and have not done anything else. I don’t want to tear it apart unless i have to. If you could help in any way i would greatly appreciate it.
I have a whirlpool top loading high efficiency washer 5 months old. Once the wash cycle finishes it wont proceed to the rinse cycle, leaving the clothes wet. I have to manually switch it to the rinse spin cycle. I use HE detergent, and have even tried running it without soap. Same thing happens. The model number is wtw5000dw
Jemma,
Can you give us the model number of your Hotpoint washer? You most likely have a front load washer and the door is locked. Try unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and plug back in, set the washer to drain and see if the water will drain out. Unplugging it may reset the washer.
-RR
My Hotpoint washing machine is only a few months old and since yesterday it won’t drain or spin at all, it’s half full with water and I can’t open the door, how bad is the problem?
Ashlee,
Does the washer do ANYTHING at all after it attempts to fill with water? It just counts down on the timer but the washer does not spin, wash, or drain? No noises? Can we have the model number of your Frigidaire Front Load Washing machine?
Have you checked to see if all the wire harnesses are attached behind the control board? This sounds like a computer board communication issue. The control board may not be communicating with the washer therefore the washer stops filling with water and just sits.
-RR
Hello,
I have a Frigidaire Front Load Washing machine and it is acting like it would like to spin but it is stuck… It will do one jerking motion then it stops filling with water and just sits there until the time expires for the cycle, can you let me know if you may be able to help. I have already cleaned the drain pump and made sure the propel spins inside the pump.
Thank you for taking the time to reply to my awe 6517 question.
Having checked the control pcb which did not appear to have any dry or melted joints. I suspect that the contacts within the relay used to energize the water inlet valve have worn. As the boards are factory soldered and resin coated it makes it nearly impossible to replace the relays which are fairly cheap components. When I have made repairs factory made pcbs in the past you can sometimes lift the tracks off it if too much heat is applied. The relay coils were good at 430 ohms. Due to the cost of the a new pcb I’ve scrapped it and purchase an identical machine. When weighing up the cost of encountering further issues with other parts such as the motor or heating element in the near future (As the machine is now 6 years old). The approved replacement pcb is half the price of a new machine which swayed my decision. Great site and great advice.
Donna Russell,
Yes try the reset process on your Maytag washing machine and see if that resets the error code.
-RR
Thanks for the quick reply. There was no electrical smell at all so I followed your advice and checked for binding. I took off the rotor and the bolt was so tight I had to use my electric impact gun. Nothing on the stator looks out of place so I put the rotor back on and tightened the bolt with a ratchet, and now it spins. I just ran a complete cycle and it is fixed. I don’t know how the rotor bolt got so tight, but I will keep an eye on it now. Thanks again.
I have tried that already. It comes on sprays a little bit of water the drums goes back and forth a little bit then it shuts off and says code SD and it is F- some number. I can’t remember the number but every time I try to restart it without soap or clothes it has the same error button on it. I had worker come out to look at the washing machine and he said it could be the power board. When I called him back he said that nobody works on those front load washers. I read lots of comments about them about them being lemons that when they got one thing fixed on it another thing went wrong with it. I tried unplugging it and plugged it back in but it did not reset. I did not know about opening and closing the door will that work on a Maytag?
Dean,
This sounds like the motor is binding up or a part has broken. Open the washer up and check to see if the motor is somehow either binding up or you can see a broken part. When the motor hums, does it produce an electrical smell? You could have a faulty motor.
-RR
Donna Russell,
The “Sd” is associated when too much detergent has been detected. Try running the washer a few times with no detergent to clear the washer of suds and clear the error. In the future do not use an excessive amount of detergent. Use HE type detergent.
-RR
Maytag 2000 washer with code Sd F. Something isn’t working after 4 times. What can I do?
I have a Samsung VRT front load washer, about 4 years old that will not spin. It drained all the water and the motor hums like it’s trying then stops and repeats this. When the motor hums the door lock light is on then turns off when the motor stops. I checked the filter and hoses and nothing is blocked and the door lock does work. There are no error codes as well. I tried opening/closing door for master reset but did not work, I’d be grateful for any tips or new ideas. Thanks
Carl G,
If you have been very thorough with checking the pressure switch, water inlet valve, and the drain pump, then you may have an electronic issue with a board or module. Have you checked the board/module to be sure it is not visually burnt or has a melted solder point?
Here is a UK based website that shows the module for Whirlpool AWE 6517, and the Whirlpool AWE 6517 Control Unit. Check and let us know what you find.
-RR
No questions at this time but I wanted to say this is the best site I have been on…maybe ever. Your instructions are clear, you respond with respect and courtesy. I am very grateful for your time and effort.
I have read through the posts on this site and I am really impressed with the advice given. It appears you have the solutions to most issues. I would really appreciate your advice on an issue I have with my 2010 whirlpool awe 6517 top loading washing machine.
Once turned on and a cycle selected the motor runs and turns the drum three times possibly in different directions. The drain pump then appears to drain the water before the red service light comes on so I suspect that the motor is okay.
I have checked the filter and also removed the pump which when tested outside the machine spins correctly drawing around 0.1 amps it is rated at 30 watts so appears correct.
No water is entering the machine although I believe it is not getting to that stage in the cycle. The solenoid son the valve test out at 3.5 k ohms and when energized do open.
I have checked the pressure switch which is closed when air is blown into the hose. There is a second connector on the pressure switch which has around 100volts ac to it when the machine is on although I’m not sure if this is correct or not. One’s I have encountered before are just no or nc make or break.
Is there anything else in the control circuit which could be causing the service light to illuminate or is this possibly a pcb fault.
I have yet to try your reset tip although if you recommended that it may work with this model I will give it a go.
I have a Samsung Model # WA400PJHDWR-AA Serial # Y69Q5AEC601967X that will not drain or spin. It will in fact fill up with water to wash normally, but stops when it becomes the rinse cycle. I have done the reset funcition, and even had a professional plumber look at it, to no avail. This machine is only a couple of years old. Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated!!
Checked all wires and all are connected. I ordered an washer electronic control board.
Lorri,
Unplug washer, open service panel and check inside as it sounds as if something was binding up and therefore causing your issues and the burning smell. Direct drive is different than the traditional washer so do a little troubleshooting and have a look around and you will most likely see a part that has broken or an electrical component that has shorted out. Use caution when taking the machine apart to investigate inside. Your issue could be a number of things. Here is a parts list for your Kenmore washer 110.26902690 that may help you to determine what part you need to fix it. There are a few videos at the bottom of that page link that you can watch to assist you further. Let us know what you find.
-RR
Bipin Maliakal,
You may have either a maytag washer transmission problem or a maytag washer tub part that has gone bad. Check the links we have included as they have parts schematics and that may help you to find the issue.
-RR
I have a Maytag Atlantis Washing Machine
Model : MAV7501EWW
I have a problem with the final spin. It does competes all the cycles, the agitator agitates and its drains the water. Here comes the problem, once its drains the water, it should be going to the final spin cycle, it looks like its doing the spinning (hearing the washing machine working) but when I open it and make the door switch on with a screw driver, all I can only hear the noise, but the drum is not spinning at all.
I don’t know what to do with this, is it something that can be easily fixed or do I need to get a new one?
Between, is this model is pretty old one?? I’ve recently moved to this new home which the previous landlords where using it.
Thank you so so much for saving me from a melt down. My front loader hadn’t drained after its wash throughout the night causing me to open its door this morning and flooding my kitchen. It then refused to do a spin drain cycle. Thanks to reading list it is now running a rinse and spin test cycle without fault :). Thanks for the information
First, my compliments to you on the fantastic job you do here and the amount of patience you demonstrate when responding to some of these queries. I am truly impressed.
My washer is a top load direct drive Kenmore (Whirlpool) model 110-26902690 over 10 yrs old. New Years Eve, had a load of clothes in, left lid open at start of rinse cycle for water to fill before adding fabric softener. Didn’t get back before agitate cycle ended prior to start of drain/spin so reset timer to start of rinse cycle, closed lid and immediately heard loud, rapid clicking sound coming from motor area. From past experience I would characterize the sound as that of some sort of switch being repeatedly energized. Machine did not agitate but tub began to slowly rotate. I stopped it then reset timer to start of wash cycle (at the point where it stops filling and begins agitate). Same result. Tried timer reset to several different points in various cycles all with basically same results (the loud clicking noise present always at any points in cycle other than fill). Being in the midst of some other activities at the time I set timer to spin, closed lid and left the area. Much later, when I returned to remove the clothes they were (almost but not quite dripping) wet and there was an electrical smell in the vicinity. The clothes being too wet to deal with I reset timer to spin and nothing. No click, no sound or response at all. Not on any speed at any point in any of the cycles. Put the whole situation on ‘timeout’ till earlier today. Went to troubleshoot diagnose today and it’s back where it started clicking sound, no agitate but slow spin instead. (one caveat: I did not refill the machine today when I tried this and it seems I recall it won’t agitate w/o water in tub.Y/N? I was focused on the ‘clicking’ sound. After reading this entire ‘page’ I did try the ‘master reset’ procedure you suggest no improvement. Could you please advise as to next troubleshoot procedure? I would be most grateful!
Tish,
Replacing the water inlet valve should have nothing to do with spin and drain. Is water entering the tub? Why was the inlet valve replaced?
When you replaced the water inlet valve you may have inadvertently bumped a wire harness or similar. Recheck all wiring to be sure the drain pump, lid switch and other parts are connected properly and getting power.
-RR
I have an Amana washer we replaced the water inlet valve (not sure the correct term) now washer will not spin or drain tried resetting it. It will not reset continues you try to agitate.
Tim,
Control board at top may have loose wire harnesses. Check the board and motor to be sure the electrical wires are secure.
-RR
I can move the tub by hand with no problem, nothing is binding up. I do not have a multi-meter. Would that be the control board at top or control motor board at the bottom? Need washer working bad….. Thanks for all of the help…
Tim,
The tub does not move most likely because you have a faulty or malfunctioning control board, sensor, or timer. You can move the tub by hand when the washer is off, correct? It does not seem as if anything is binding up inside? Right? It is more of a control or communication problem? Do you have a multi-meter?
-RR
Checked all wires and re-plugged washer. The washer now runs water and drains but on wash cycle the tub doesn’t move on neither cycle. The minutes go from 59 minutes all the way down to 7 minutes. The tub never moves still.
Tim,
Sounds like there is a communication error. Try checking that the wire harnesses are secure on all parts and to the board. If all the electrical is connected, you may have a bad board and further troubleshooting will be required.
-RR
Stephen Hohl,
The drain pump is most likely internally clogged. Open it up and check. Which wheel are you talking about? There should not be a pulley on the drain pump. Just be sure the drain pump is not clogged and the washer will spin and drain as normal. If you need more info, please send us your model number of the washer.
-RR
I have a GE top load washer machine. It goes through the all the cycles until it gets to the spin and drain cycle. I noticed that in this cycle it is making a solid buzzing sound but nothing is happening. I took the front cover off of the machine (wow there was a ton of stuffing from a dog bed throughout which I cleaned it all out) and heard the buzzing coming from the pump motor in the front. There is a wheel on the front which is not spinning. I played with the wheel got it to spin momentarily but stopped when I tried a light load. Any suggestions? I tried the lid rest to no avail. Unless I did it wrong. Not sure if i need a new pump and what the cost would be for that. I did notice the magnet is still strong.
Tried it again, when I press normal wash, quick wash or either wash, the door locks when I press start and nothing happens it just sits on the beginning numbers. Nothing happens at all. The lights come on and I can switch between different cycles, once you press start nothing happens. Thanks.
Great tips. Thank you,
Michael,
Q – Any hints for the reconnecting that rubber hose to the plastic lines, for the next time I have to do that?
A – Use a hair dryer to warm the end of the hose to get it to slide back on easier.
Q – The rubber boot has some mold in the bottom of it where water can sit after the washer is used. I have replaced it once before, and I will likely have to replace it again soon. Any tricks for removing the mold or preventing it from forming in there?
A – Running a preventive maintenance wash cycle will help take care of bacterial growth and residual soap. Once each month or more frequently if desired. Run a hot water wash with no clothes and use bleach or white vinegar instead of detergent.
-RR
Tim,
Try washing again and see if the same exact thing happens. If it stops on 30 minutes again then you could have a part that is malfunctioning therefore freezing the machine in that wash cycle. If the time the washer stops or freezes changes, then a control board is usually the issue. Run a few more washes and observe if you see any changes which can lead to which part you may need to check or replace.
-RR
Allan Aquino,
Before replacing any parts, check that the drain pump and drain hose are not clogged as this can make SOME washers refuse to spin as it senses the drain system is blocked. If the drain pump is in working order and not blocked, then further troubleshooting will be required. There could be an issue with the load sensor, or the control board may have an issue. Have you tried to run the washer empty and see if it spins?
-RR
Thanks John good stuff…..
I need your advice regarding my washing machine. I have a Samsung Top Load Washing Machine (Model WA15P9). I NOTICED THAT THE DRUM IS NOT ROTATING DURING THE SPINNING CYCLE BOTH DURING LOW AND HIGH SPEED SPIN CYCLE. ALSO DURING SPIN CYCLE THE INSIDE WASHER PLATE IS ROTATING INTERMITTENTLY AND THERE IS A SOUND THAT SEEMS TO BE COMING FROM THE DRAIN SYSTEM. I opened the washer and found that the belt is intact and the motor is running intermittently as well. What could be the problem?
I had it on regular wash. All of the lights come on nothing flashing. Machine making no noise. It just sat on 30 for 10 min then I unplugged. When I had it on regular wash it started at 59 min and went through all cycles and filled the tub and drained, but it stopped and froze on 7 min which is the spin cycle.
Yes, the pump was clogged. In the hose there was a white basket with large holes, and it was clogged with all kinds of stuff. I cleaned it out and put it all back together, and the washer works great. Getting to that hose was an absolute pain. I had to remove the front panel, which includes disconnecting the door and removing the rubber boot from the door as well. Removing the hose was pretty easy. Reconnecting the hose to the tub line, the pump and to the sensor for the control panel was the hardest part. Any hints for the reconnecting that rubber hose to the plastic lines, for the next time I have to do that?
I noticed that some washers have a panel on the front that allows direct access to this basket. I will make sure my next washing machine has one of those. Live and Learn.
One last question, the rubber boot has some mold in the bottom of it where water can sit after the washer is used. I have replaced it once before, and I will likely have to replace it again soon. Any tricks for removing the mold or preventing it from forming in there? Removing the machine’s front panel is not too difficult to do, but I would rather not do it too often and risking causing other problems with it.
Tim,
So after unplugging the washer it gets NO water filling into the tub? At 30 min it sits and does nothing? Are any lights flashing? Is the washer making a beeping noise? What happens if you leave the washer when it hangs at 30 min? Does it eventually start into the next cycle or is it in other words, frozen? The control board we mentioned is the one behind the controls.
-RR
Michael,
If not a control board malfunction… then yes the pump may be clogged and therefore the washer is giving the final spin cycle enough time to empty the water, but if the pump, drain hose, or drain in the wall is clogged or blocked, it will not drain the water out. Try checking the drain hose, drain pump, drain filter, and the wall drain. Be sure there are no clogs and try a wash cycle again. If the problem persists it may be a control board issue or other. Let us know what you find.
-RR
For my washer that wouldn’t spin, the Master Reset procedure (unplug, replug, open and close of door 6 times) fixed my washer; it did the trick like magic! Thank you so much to those who post this type of information on the internet! The postings and how to videos have invaluable to me over the years, saving me time, money, and a lot of angst. I would never know how to do a lot of things without the posted information. I changed a water pump on a washer one time in 10 minutes, I’ve repaired lawnmowers, pressure washers, dryers, installed appliances, etc, and now this master reset procedure.
I have a frigidaire affinity front loading washer model number FAFW3511KW0 that is 6 years old. When it enters the Final Spin cycle it stops. We come to the machine thinking it is finished and open the door, but there is water in the machine and, clearly the clothes have not spun. When we close the door and press the start/pause button, the machine will pick up where it left off. I tried unplugging and plugging back in for one minute, then opening and closing the door six times within 12 seconds. Then, I ran a the machine in the quick setting without any items in it. It ran flawlessly. So, I did a load in the Normal/causal setting, and the problem arose again.
I did notice on the quick cycle that the first think it does when it enters the Final Spin is that it drains the water, and I could hear the water drain. I was observing while I did the load, and, at the start of the Final Spin, I heard a sound that resembled a motor, but I did not hear the water drain. Would this be a problem with the pump being clogged and preventing it from draining or something else?
I unplugged the washer and set washer on express wash. I am getting nothing no water anymore, it sits on 30 min doing nothing. When you say control board is that the one on the bottom of machine or top, or the other way around. Thanks for all your help.
Hi Tim. Several months ago, I also had spin problems with my front load Kenmore washer [a different model number than yours]. I had performed the Reset steps to no avail. I had replaced the door switch to no avail. It turned out to me my Motor Control Board [Spin Control Board], which is situated at the bottom left rear of the Washer. It was easy to remove, with only 2 Philips head screws and to just unplug the connector. There were no/no burn marks on my ‘faulty’ Motor Control Board, either…..So, I do not think a ‘visual’ is always the absolute test. Anyway, I checked out eBay and got one for a reasonable cost. Prior to making this purchase, I download a few YouTube repair videos and exhaustively searched thru the different manufacturers of my Kenmore…..Because the brand name ‘Kenmore’ by Sears, is made by different manufacturers, ie: Frigidaire, etc. What helped me properly identify the part was the ‘visual’ close up of the item, and I compared the numbers. NOTE: If you finally decide to replace your Motor Control Board, please handle the new one with ‘care’, because after all, it is a ‘computer’, and ensure you are not grounded. My replacement came in a ‘bubble pack’ to protect the fragile item. You can also check my previous comments of several months ago re my repair journey. I hope this helps you with your repair. The bottom line with these front loaders is that the stainless steel tubs are joined with the spyder arms of aluminum and after some years the corrosion issues tend to fouls the bearings in the tub, and sometimes, the aluminum spyder arm breaks and the tub bangs around! Anyway, check out the internet for repair videos which can be very useful in building your confidence…..If you have the time, you can save $$$ by doing your own repair. Regards, from Western Canada, ‘John’
Tim,
It sounds as if you may have a faulty control board. As a test, can you run the washer on the shortest wash cycle completely empty and let us know what you find?
-RR
I have a Kenmore front load washer Model # 110.47566600. The washer will run water, then tub won’t move, drain water, then tub will not move on spin cycle. The timer starts 56 min then stops and freezes on 7, which is the spin cycle. I have checked the control board on top and control motor board on bottom and did not see any black marks or anything that is not normal. I unplugged all of the wires are re-plugged them back in. The machine is doing the same thing. Please help Thanks……
Tim,
It could be the control panel if you have to unplug the washer every time to reset it. Can we have the model number of your Kenmore front load washer?
-RR
My Kenmore front load washer starts up and the lights come on. The machine goes through the cycles but the tub will not move when its time to wash. The machine freezes and will not move when the spin cycle comes on. I have to unplug every time. Is it the motor or the control panel… Please help…
Nick,
This may be obvious but you did not mention it above… Have you checked the belt, lid switch, pulleys, transmission? Let us know what you find.
-RR
TIll,
Bearing, Transmission, Pulley, Etc…
-RR
I have an older Whirlpool washing machine top loader. It makes motor noise but does not spin. There’s no funny smell or anything. The clutch is good, and the coupler is good. Any ideas? Thank you
Any ideas when the issue is not the coupler nor the clutch? I’ve spent all day online and frustrations are high. Thank you
Jennifer,
IS the light on the control flashing or blinking? It may be trying to tell you a fault code. What do you do to get the light to go off so you can start the washer? Once you get it running, and it starts to spin, does it fill with water first? Is the draining noise actually coming from the drain pump? How long does this happen and when it does what is happening with the control panel? Any type of flashing or codes?
-RR
I have a Maytag 9000 series front load washer. I already replaced the old pump thinking that was the problem. The issue is the machine’s control light stays on and when I do get it to go off the was machine starts. Then it start to spin then stop midway and makes a draining noise, but nothing comes out. Unplugged and plugged back in and open and closed the door six times and no change. I don’t know what do to next. I’m close to calling it quits and ordering a new control panel. Please help!!
Benni,
See our page here that describes what to check and How to fix a Samsung washing machine with error code 4E.
-RR
Hi, i have a Samsung top loader WA10F5S5 model. I experienced an error code 4E. I’ve tried all troubleshooting suggestions and all seems not working. The problem occurs half way filling the tub and all of the sudden that 4E error code started to buzz and it drains away the half filled water immediately. What seems to be the problems? I tried to set on spin mode, and it spins well. But when i try do the normal, cycle. The 4E problem repeats.
Tony Hong,
Can you please give us the model number of your Samsung washing machine?
-RR
Leo,
If you have replaced the lid switch and motor coupling on your top load Whirlpool washer, the next thing to check is to see if the clutch is slipping. You may have a bad clutch or the transmission could leak oil on the clutch and cause it to slip therefore causing your not spinning or Have to assist washer drum by hand to spin. Have you examined the transmission and the clutch?
-RR
I have a Whirlpool Washer, which is giving me a headache because it appears it did not spin at the end of washing cycle. I initially thought it was a spin cycle problem. But after watching more closely the entire cycle, I realized it is more a problem that starts at the beginning of draining cycle. My washer fills water okay, agitates okay, and then when it drains the water, it should normally start spinning with draining water. But it does not despite draining itself is okay, and does not spin at all after that even for the high spin cycle at the end. Interestingly, if I give a quick manual spin when it does not start spinning at the draining cycle, it does perfectly well and finishes washing including spin cycle. Another interesting thing is that this problem occurred only intermittently before, but now all the time. There is no abnormal noise or anything. Without knowing this problem, I replaced lid switch and motor coupling, but did not help at all. Any suggestions what is the problem and if I can fix it? Thank you in advance.
My Samsung washing machine will wash but when it time to spin fast to dry the clothing on spin cycle it won’t spin fast. Just a slow turn and it makes one beeping sound the one it notified u when it is done. PLEASE HELP.
Sam,
Have you tried unplugging the washer to reset it? It may be a simple fix to reset the washer. If that does not work let us know and we can help further. What country are you in?
-RR
April,
If you have an older top loading washer and it will not spin, the MOST likely issue is the lid switch. Check to be sure when the lid shuts it is depressing on the lid switch. You should hear a clicking noise when you close the lid. It may be an electrical issue meaning the lid switch is bad or possibly the lid is not able to depress the lid switch.
-RR
I have a washer that is an older model and it is a top loader and it will not spin on the rinse cycle. What can I do to fix it?
Tony,
It will all depend on what type of front load washer you have. If the washer was overloaded and the drum has become loose or just simply will not turn, then yes either the belt, motor, pulley, transmission, clutch, or a bracket holding the drum has broken or cracked. You will need to unplug the washer from power, remove the panel, and visually inspect the inside for obvious signs of damage or broken parts. Remove and replace parts as necessary.
-RR
John,
Your Amana washer may have a siphoning issue. Be sure the drain hose at back is at the correct height. Sometimes if the drain hose is positioned to far down, the washer will fill with water and immediately drain it out in a siphoning/gravity feed situation. Solution: Reposition drain hose.
-RR
Amana Washer NTW4501XQ0. Problem with final rinse. Water will fill then immediately pump out without agitating.
I have a front loading washing machine, I overloaded it on one occasion, and the drum has stopped rotating and it has come loose, the motor still works when the machine is turned on but the drum does not rotate.
Can you please advice me what the fault could be and if it can be repaired. if it is just the belt come loose or could it be something else?
Thank you DIY for the tips on correcting the ‘slow spin’ issue. Mine is a Panasonic Washing Machine (NA-107VC4), only a little more than a year old. It was acting up as the fast spin mode could not be activated, leaving behind a load of dripping wet laundry. So I did as you suggested a power ‘master reset’. But it took me to do that 3 times before the operation was normalized.
I have a Daewoo DWD-MH1011 Front load washing machine. It gets half way into a normal cycle and stops spinning.
It beeps twice every second or so and all the lights flash on the front except for the ‘wash’ and ‘start/pause’ light.
The belt is in good condition and its less than 18 months old. Any suggestions?
Bridgette,
If your Whirlpool front load washer will not spin at high speed when fully loaded with clothing, you may not have the exact belt replacement. If the belt is a bit larger than the original Whirlpool OEM belt, it will spin empty but once a heavy clothing load is added, the washer will spin but the belt slips and therefore cannot spin fast. You may also have a pulley or other component that is not letting the belt be as tight as needed. You may need to adjust the motor position, pulley position, or possibly the belt is not riding the pulleys correctly, maybe upside down and that is causing the slipping? Do you smell any burning rubber or electrical smell when the washer is running? Does the drum spin freely when you turn it by hand?
-RR
I have a Whirlpool front loader, Model number is Ywfw9050xw00. We have replaced the pump and the belt, and will still not high speed spin under load.. If it’s empty it will high speed spin… Can anyone help?
Susan,
You may have a lid switch issue or lid door lock issue that is causing the washer to not spin. Have you tried testing the lid switch or have a look to see if there is a belt or pulley issue inside the washer?
-RR
I have a Whirlpool Top load and everything works with the exception of the spin cycle. The water will fill but will not agitate (I do not have an agitator, but it spins and shifts back and forth), it will drain but will not spin. Every time I pull clothes out, I have to wring the water out of them before putting in the dryer. The washer is only 3 years old too.
S,
Usually the belt won’t cause that to happen. The HALL SENSOR may be the culprit. If the motor and belt are in good working order, the hall sensor should be replaced.
-RR
Yes, the motor does move and when I have only a couple of items in the tub it seems ok. I hear what sound to me like a slipping or rubbing sound. Could the belt just be loose or stretched out? Or something more serious?
S,
Amana E3 Error means the machine control is trying to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response. Does the motor move? If motor is locked it could be the motor, wiring, or the hall sensor. The hall sensor is an internal part of the washers motor. It relays the info to the machines control board.
-RR
My Amana front load NFW7200 washer will not finish the wash cycle. It indicates E3 code. I have tried the master reset and no go. It runs fine when not loaded. When loaded, it stops in the wash cycle or sometimes makes it to the rinse and spin and stops with the E3 code. If I pause it and let the load sit for a while and then resume, it will sometimes continue through the cycle. I looked at the belt, not that I know what I’m looking for, and it looks fine. Any suggestions?
Chris,
If you have a front load washer, clean out the front drain filter. Whatever washer type you have, check the drain hose for any type of blockage or bends. Be sure the washer can drain into the actual drain in the wall as the actual drain may be clogged also. No matter what type of Kenmore washer you have, check the drain pump for any type of foreign debris as anything blocking it will cause your washing machine to NOT SPIN and NOT DRAIN.
-RR
My Kenmore will not drain or spin how can I fix it and I’ve tried everything.
Karli,
SUD means too much detergent is being used.
FO2 means a drain issue..
1 – Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged up or bent.
2 – Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is functioning.
3 – Check the drain pump filter for gunk clogging it.
If the problem does not go away after doing the above, replace the pump.
-RR
Shawn,
Is the error code on your Samsung washer 1E or IE? 0E or OE? Please give us the exact current error code and your Samsung model number.
-RR
It’s a Kenmore Elite He3t. I cleared out the pump, below the washer and attempted to drain/spin with the washer empty. Worked perfectly, I did this twice. I then put a very small load of towels and the code “sud” appeared. I put in two more towels and it started making noises. The code “fo2″ just appeared.
Karli,
Are you getting an error code on your front load washer? Usually on a front load washer, if it is not spinning or draining, you have a problem with the drain pump being clogged, jammed or the drain hose is bent or clogged also. Can you tell us the model number of your washer?
-RR
My front load washer isn’t draining nor spinning. What should I do to fix the problem?
My Samsung washing machine 13kg top loader when I plug it in it goes on of itself and gave me the error code OE and IE.
Lia,
Can you tell us the exact model number of your washer so we can direct you to dissemble the washer to get to the drain pump?
-RR
I checked the filter, it’s cleaned, but I don’t know how to inspect the drain pump, if anything is jammed inside it. Can you please help me with that, any video or advise on how to do that.
Zack Copo,
Usually an older top load washer that will not rinse or drain means there is an issue with the drain system. The imbalance should not have anything to do with NO RINSE and NO DRAIN. Check the washer drain hose for clogs or bends. Check the drain pump to be sure there is nothing blocking it. If the drain pump is blocked, jammed, or clogged, the washer will not rinse or drain.
-RR
I have a old Whirlpool washer and it runs but doesn’t rinse or drain I was told it might be from being off balance but wouldn’t that make the whole thing not run?
Gerry,
If your washing machine does not spin check to make sure the door has latched completely. The led light that comes on may mean a bad sensor, control board or other. If the motor does not operate at all the motor control board could be bad. You can visually inspect it and if the board is bad the components will be burnt.
-RR
I have a Kenmore front load washer (970-C48082). I believe manufactured by Frigidaire. All of sudden when you start a load the water starts filling for a couple of seconds and then the led light that says high spin goes to No Spin and everything stops. I have checked for blockages….draining and filling were fine before this happened. Any ideas?
Chris,
The tension on the belt is not correct. You may have the wrong size belt or the belt pulleys that it sits on are not spaced correctly to provide the perfect tension on the belt. You may have a worn out or slightly bent pulley. Have you checked to be sure nothing is worn out, bent, and the belt you installed is the exact match to the old one?
-RR
My Amana top load washer won’t spin. The other day I took it apart and found that the drive belt was snapped in half on the floor. I thought great, easy fix! I bought a new drive belt and installed it. Now, the washer agitates fine and drains fine but when it gets to the fast spin cycle the motor runs, the spindles are spinning quickly but the belt isn’t moving and obviously the washer isn’t spinning. The belt moves fine when it agitates though. Does anyone have any ideas?
Rachael,
Is it going off balance because of a large over filled wash load? Have you tried washing a short wash with the washer empty? You may have bad tub holders or springs may have come off and therefore the washer is off balance. If you are not overloading the washer, have a look under the washer to see if a tub stabilizer has fallen off therefore causing the off balance issue.
-RR
Ben,
Can you give us the make and model number of your washer? Have you tested the lid switch if you have a top loader?
-RR
Gabreal,
What is the make and model of your washer?
-RR
Darlene,
Yes the timer may have bad spots or burnt spots on it therefore the timer does not work on certain wash cycles. Remove and replace the timer using the videos you have referred too. It is an easy job just be sure you have the power OFF to the washer.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 700 washer that stops at the spin cycle. I have to turn the knob back to spin and it will start again; however, it takes 3 times of doing this before the clothes are ready for the dryer. Sears told us it was the TIMER and said it will cost over $300, so we should just buy a new one. I found the part and it’s only $100 and a video on youtube.com shows how easy it is to replace. I just wanted to make sure that this could be the actual problem.
My washer won’t drain when switching over too spin what could be wrong?
My washer works but when it comes to spin dry its not spinning and the motor is fine.
My Samsung top loading washing machine will attempt to spin but starts going off balance and will shut off and start the whole load over again.
Sam,
At what point did your Hitachi top load washer stop and receive the FD error code? During wash, rinse, or drain? Do you have a serial number for your machine?
-RR
Hi, I am using Hitachi SF-95 top loading. Stopped and giving Fd error code..please help
Nmwallace,
If lid switch is working electrically and mechanically, then you may have an issue with a semi clogged drain pump, or a control/timer issue. Have you tried looking at pump to see if clogged? Also check drain hose and drain where water comes out. May be a blockage. Do you have a multimeter to test timer/switches?
-RR
I have a Maytag that will fill and agitate normal but will not drain and spin. The cycle knob will continue to end cycle without rinse or spinning, and full of water. Sometimes after opening and closing lid and turning knob to rinse cycle it will drain some and try to spin very slowly and then stop. Tested lid switch, seems to be fine. Please help, desperate to do laundry in Cal.
I was skeptical about the pump being the problem, but I wired it directly to 110, and it worked. After that, I ran through a short cycle, and it was ok. Not sure what happened, but it works fine now. Thanks for your help.
Norm,
Your GE front loader may stop at that moment and the door issue occurs as you may have a blocked drain pump or drain hose. This means at the final rinse, it drains the water out. If the pump is blocked, the washer cannot drain. Check drain pump for something that may be clogged in there or a bent or clogged drain hose.
-RR
Arie,
Hitachi washing machine error code f9 means a PUMP FAULT. Check the pump to be sure it is getting power. Check to be sure it is not clogged or jammed. Check pump hose to be sure there is no blockage. Do you have a multimeter?
-RR
I have a top loading Hitachi washing machine, model SF160GJ MG serial no. 20800208. It doesn’t spin and a error signal shows F9. What is your advice to solve the problem?
I have a GE front loader which acts normal until it goes to the final rinse cycle. It agitates back and forth normally, and then abruptly the door unlocked light goes on, and all activity stops before the rinse cycle starts. This happens on all of the different settings, such as “delicate” or “normal”. I have tried the reset thing, but to no help.
Alex,
Candy washing machine displaying an E3 error means:
The washer has not drained in time allowed – washing machine fails to drain out water
Check that filter is not blocked or obstructed, Check drain hose is clear of any blockage or obstruction, Check wiring to drain pump, Check drain pump is not defective, Check level sensor or switch, Check wiring to level sensor.
-RR
I have a Candy front loading washing machine, model GO 510/1-16S, S/N 3100246608370593, that will work fine in all cycles, but without any load. When I place any kind of load, even a very light one, the machine will stop mid cycle giving an E3 (I think) fault code.
Add “check drum rotation” to troubleshooting chart. If the drum doesn’t rotate freely, check to see if the pump is jammed or the drum is jammed. If not, the bearing has seized. On a Frigidaire front loader, check for the presence of the pump filter. If missing, that may be the source of the drum jam. Shine a flashlight through the drum and if you find a clear plastic tube jammed behind the drum, that’s the problem.
Camil,
Bosch washer error code E23 means a fault with the drain pump. This would mean that either the drain pump, wiring or main control board is bad. The code means the wrong resistance value from the drain pump. Try and unplug the washer for 10 minutes to reset it. If you still get error E23 you need to begin testing parts with a multimeter, most likely you have a bad drain pump.
-RR
I need a help, my washing machine shows me fault error code E23. It’s Bosch way32890sn. It was stopping pump but now pump is working normal. I tested water going out. I can’t open door. When I want start machine coming up fault e23. Please help me.
Ekimmy,
If your Amana washer will wash and rinse but will not spin it could mean the lid switch is not working but the timer keeps going thus allowing it to rinse. You may also have a bad clutch or transmission issue. Can you supply us with the model number of your Amana washer?
-RR
My Amana wash machine will wash and Rinse but will not spin turns on and off with no problem.
Richard,
Have you washed a large load of towels or blankets in the last load? If the washer senses an imbalance it will try to correct the problem and display an error code. If you have no error code, the control board may need reset. Have you made sure the drain filter is back in place correctly? Your washer may not be operating properly if the drain pump is clogged, when you cleaned the filter, was it full of gunk? Is your washer on level ground? Was it moved lately? Have you tried washing on a quick wash cycle with no clothing and see what happens? Try a few test washes and see if the washer gives you an error code. You may have a loose wire harness somewhere near the board causing your issue too. Check to be sure all wire harnesses are attached and secure.
-RR
Kyle,
Does your front load washer make any type of scraping, rubbing, or screeching noises when running? If not spinning and it seems to jump out of place, does it show an error code? Can you supply us with the full model and serial number?
-RR
Lisa,
A burnt board can be fixed if you know what component on the board is bad. Is the burnt area of the control board for your Bosch washing machine a capacitor? If so a capacitor can be purchased for next to nothing and re-soldered into place. If the board is not repairable by yourself… Have you checked to see what prices are for a new board? Most modern new style washers can be very expensive, a board may cost 1/8th of the price of a new washer. You could buy a used board or have it repaired by a professional. Do some research and you may be able to get the board fixed for much much cheaper than a new board or for that matter a new washer.
-RR
Maggie,
Can you give us your washing machine symptoms? Model number of your Whirlpool?
If lid switch did not fix your washer, you may have a wiring problem, or possibly the lid is not coming in contact with your lid switch. Do you hear a clicking sound when you shut the washer lid?
-RR
Just replaced the lid switch on my Whirlpool washer and still doesn’t work can you tell me what it could be? Do you have any ideas?
We have a BOSCH MAXX900. It has stopped spinning. After reading your advice, we took the main board off and can see a burnt out area on the main board/control panel. Would it be worth getting a new main board or is it more worthy to purchase a new washing machine.?? Appreciate your advice. Thank you in advance. Kind Regards Lisa.
I have a front load Kenmore 4906 model. It drains fine but will not spin. I opened the back and the motor is turning, but not the drum inside. You can turn the inside drum by hand and it seems to “lock” into place. As soon as the washer calls to spin it “jumps” out of place. Is this something I can fix myself? A coupler or something?
My Electrolux ewf1495 front load washer won’t spin in any of the settings. It wants to spin in both directions but a couple of attempts it stops. No codes are showing on the control panel and I have tried the master reset without any success, I have cleaned the drain filter. Plus I read the manual provided and it says something about a electronic unbalance detection device? Any suggestions?
Bonnie,
Your drain pump is most likely clogged or jammed with foreign objects. You will need to take the pump apart and remove anything lodging inside to fix the issue.
-RR
Ok so i did reset on the machine and tried it this morning. It is running through cycles and spinning but whining very loudly there is no smell coming from it. It is not draining when i checked the drain hose during the drain cycle it was just trickling.
Bonnie,
Unload the washer completely. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes. See if that resets the washer. Humming may mean a belt or other part broke or is not working properly if the washer was heavily overloaded. Can you please provide us with a make and model number of your washer and we can assist with helping you fix your washer?
-RR
Jerry,
Please supply us with a make and model number of your washer. If the washer is not spinning, what error signal shows up? An error code or a beeping? If there is an error code please let us know the code and we can provide answers to fix.
-RR
The reset trick worked, thank you
My washing machine has a start up problem. When you start it the water will pump in then it is supposed to spin. It doesn’t spin and a error signal shows up. It takes a while of trying and it will finally work.
I overloaded my washer. Now it will not do anything. It stopped after the wash cycle. Water still in tub. I unloaded it. Let the timer still run it tries to start and then just hums for a minute and then stops. Will not do anything else.
Lori,
Most likely you have a bad lid switch. If the lid switch is faulty, the machine will agitate the clothing but will not spin or drain. If you have a meter you can test the lid switch or check it visually and make sure the washer plunger is pushing on it when the top load door closes.
-RR
We have a top loader Maytag Bravo washer that doesn’t spin. Clothes are drenched. We tried resetting and that didn’t help. Any advice?
Nicole,
If machine is buzzing, that MAY mean a part is binding up and unable to move. You could have a number of issues. First, be sure the lid switch is in working order. Then check drain hose and drain pump to be sure nothing is clogged and making the washer unable to drain. Buzzing may also mean a bad motor, bad timer switch or other. Check the components we mentioned and go from there. Any other questions? We will be happy to answer.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 80 series top leading washer (model#23812100) that won’t drain or spin (or anything else at this point). For a while now, every so many loads, it wouldn’t fully spin the water out of the clothes. It would complete the cycle, but the clothes would still be soaking wet. I just did a 2nd rinse cycle and when I came back to it, it’s full of water (no suds). No matter where I turn the dial, it makes a slight buzzing noise, but nothing happens. I did unplug it for a minute and opened and closed the lid a dozen times, but still nothing.
Leo,
We mean all the components you mentioned. If you do not have a meter or do not know how to use one, get one and learn, it will save you loads of money in the long run. In the meantime…
Check the wiring harnesses on ALL components to be they are secure. The main control board may be faulty, check it for burn marks and other obvious signs of damage.
-RR
“Was the door lock assembly you bought OEM or generic replacements? If after installing the door lock the machine worked, but the second wash attempt did not, then either a sensor or possibly wiring is to blame. Does the current door lock assembly test okay with a meter?”
I bought the door lock assembly from amazon and it had the same part number as the original. I don’t have a meter to test the assembly. You mentioned that “either a sensor or possibly wiring is to blame,” Did you mean the master “control board sensor” or the “wire harness kit” for the door lock assembly? Thanks.
Matzc2v,
Please supply us with model number and a detailed description of your Samsung washer issue.
-RR
Hopewell Maxwell,
Samsung Washer Error Code OE = Too much washing liquid may have been added. Remove power to the appliance, wait 30 seconds then turn the power supply back on. The drain pump should operate to drain the washing machine.
-RR
My Samsung top loader model WA13V9 has been idle for some time. I went to use it and it comes on and before you finish giving commands it times out and displays error: 0E. What could be the problem?
I have problem with Samsung washer machine. It cant spin. Can you solve my problem?
Tim,
It sounds like either the clutch or motor coupler is worn out and causing your issue (if you have a top load washer). Can you give us make and model of your washing machine to assist further?
-RR
Sarah,
Can you supply us with the model number of your Bosch Maxx Washing Machine?
-RR
Thank you, thank you so much for this clearly written and easy to follow tutorial. I thought I was going to have to replace my Whirlpool top loader, and with two special needs kids at home we just don’t have the extra income to spend. A simple reset did the trick! We are thrilled!
I have a Bosch Maxx which I’ve had for years. The drum has suddenly stopped turning – I have tried the reset you suggested – unplugging it for a minute, then opening and closing the door six times. I tried starting a short wash and it filled up, but still didn’t turn. It drains fine. Nothing happens when I put it on ‘Spin’ only. Any ideas what I could try next?
I have an 18 year old washer that has a random problem with spinning. After washing it goes to drain and spin but sometimes it gets stuck and only drains with a somewhat loud motor hum. It may catch with a clunk and start spinning, or it may wait until it reverses direction where it will catch. If you hear it humming you can go and lift the lid. As soon as the motor spins to a stop there is a clunk and then you close the lid. Spins fine until the next full spin cycle starts. Everything else works fine. I don’t want to replace the wrong component so I would love some expert help!
Mad,
Have you checked the lid or door switch? If your washer will not spin, usually the lid or door switch is bad. Test with a meter to be sure.
-RR
Delvin,
When your top load washer is spinning, the rubber belt is in use. If you smell rubber burning, then the belt is about to shred or is misaligned. You should order a new belt for your washer. Inspect the washer first to be sure the belt is causing your issue. This is a common issue with many top load washers. Burning rubber smell = bad belt or misaligned belt.
-RR
I have a Frigidaire Gallery top loader which washes fine but when it comes down to spinning and draining the water off the clothes its not working and also I smell of rubbery burning smell what could it be?
I have a Toshiba AW-8480 SM, from time to time i do forget some coins in my pants pocket. Usually i remove the PULSATOR so i can remove the coins from under it and then put every thing back together. Two days ago i did the same thing except i forgot to put back the washer that in between the PULSATOR the drive shaft. I did replace it with a new washer but the spinning cycle does not work, i tried to spin only but it also refuse to spin. Is it the washer problem or something else?
Paul Dunne,
It sounds as if something such as a wiring harness or an electrical component came loose or detached when you replaced the bearing. It may have been something loose to begin with and taking the washer apart made it detach. We would suggest to trace all wiring harnesses from the top controls and move downward. There may be a motor control sensor that is loose. Find the loose wire and secure it into its original position. If it turns out to NOT be a loose wiring issue, let us know and we can troubleshoot further.
-RR
I have a Bosch classic 1000 express front load washing machine. Approx 10 yrs old. The machine was working fine except for the bearing on the motor was getting a bit noisy. I replaced the bearing but now the machine does not appear to complete any cycles. It will fill and empty no problem. But when it starts to spin it is like it is loosing the run signal and stops, then it times out and moves to the next phase of the wash cycle. I have tried the same with the belt removed to eliminate imbalance in the drum, even though it appears fine. Any help would be appreciated.
Sean Grant,
If your clothing is “foamy” you may be using to much detergent. If there is a pool of water in the bottom, you may have a drain issue. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes to try and reset. Next, run a short wash cycle on cold empty. Also, your washing machine model number will help us to get to a more exact recommendation.
-RR
When I completed a load of washing this morning, the clothes were still very foamy. Now my wife has tried to do the load again and there is still a pool of water in the bottom. Also, the machine will now not spin at all. Please help
Nelson,
Samsung washing machine error code 1E is an indication of “oversudsing” or a water level error. This is almost always caused by using too much bleach, softener, detergent or non-HE detergent. However, this could mean there is an issue with the water level sensor.
-RR
Samsung washing machine does not spin.. after it comes on for 5 seconds, it just displays 1E and drains all water.. and at this stage it hangs.
Taresa,
If the washer is humming and not draining, the drain pump is either clogged, bad, or drain hose is crimped. Check all drain components and if all check good then more than likely the timer on your top load washer has gone bad and needs to be replaced.
-RR
We have an old top loader washing machine… I started a wash and the machine has filled with water but now it sounds like timer is not connecting or something. The timer is making the humming, clicking noise but washer isn’t doing anything. Now it’s full of water just sitting there. Please help!!! Thanks!!
Terry,
The “od” error code means The door has not been opened after two complete wash cycles. Door switch was not seen open since the last two final spins Diagnostic code 17.
Possible issue is bad door switch, test with a multimeter to be sure.
-RR
My Kenmore model #24832200 will just click in the wash or spin cycle. The water will drain from the tub.. Advice to solve this problem?
I have an Amana NFW7200TW front load washing machine. I changed the door lever on Tuesday, we were able to do a few loads of laundry, but now the machine is throwing the “od” code, something about open door or haven’t closed the door in 2 cycles. I can’t remember the exact wording and don’t have manual with me. Will this reset work? Or is there something else wrong? Thanks!
Ros,
Can you give us more info? What exactly happens when your Toshiba washer goes through a cycle? Everything works as normal except spin? Have you opened up back of machine to see if there are any obvious signs of a problem?
-RR
Having problems with Toshiba washing machine aw-8480 s that cannot spin but still can wash clothes. Can you please advice me to solve the problem.
Thank ya’ll so much! I’m going to borrow a multimeter today and hopefully get some definitive answers as to what to replace!
Oscar,
The first and main error code E54 means the Control Unit is not getting the signal that the motor is turning so it shuts off. The problem could be in the control board, inverter, wiring, motor, or the door lock assembly. Check all of the wiring harnesses. Clean and reset all of the electrical connections. If that does not fix the washer then replace the control unit. This fixes the issue you are having most of the time but not guaranteed. If you have a multimeter it would really help to test the components we have listed before replacing anything.
-RR
The codes that are given are the following:
E54
E42
E22
E48
Thanks again!
Oscar,
It sounds as if a large load of clothing pushed the washer out of balance by being overloaded. If everything worked properly in diagnostic mode except spin, it may be a damaged or faulty door locking assembly, your drain pump may be clogged or inoperable from objects being pumped into it. Did the error codes have a letter in front of them like E52 or E48? Please try and see the exact error codes and get back to us after you try the master reset. Your washer may not respond to the washer reset but if you can give us the EXACT error codes, we can assist further.
-RR
I have a front loading GE washing machine. I’m not sure what the model is, but these are the model numbers that show up on our owners/repairs manual :
1. GBVH6250
2. GCVH6260
3. WCVH6260
4. WBVH6240
5. WHDVH626
The washer has been having several issues that I unfortunately can’t figure out. When the machine was working, it was going through cycles and pausing numerous times. It didn’t matter what cycle it was set on, it would pause frequently. After dealing with the pausing for a few days, we noticed that it would have some really rough final spins while still having pausing issues(not sure if it was simply because of being loaded improperly/consisted of towels and jeans). A few days after that, the machine has stopped spinning and filling and it only performs the drain function. It sounds like it’s stuck on a continuous drain cycle no matter which was cycle we put it in (I’m also sure there is no water in the machine what it’s trying to drain).
After this all occurred, I decided to pull off the top panel and the back panel to take a better look (not mechanically inclined so not sure how much good this did). The belt looks good and it is still attached. I turned the drum manually to make sure it wasn’t suck or grinding on anything and it turned nicely. I checked the Hot and Cold water connections to make sure there was no build-up (read somewhere that this might cause some of the problems I’m experiencing). These connections were fine. Water pressure was also fine. I checked all of the bolts and wires and didn’t notice anything that stuck out as a “red-flag”. I drained pump at the bottom of the washer and found multiple items lodged in the hose. Took the time to take everything out and put it back on. Since I don’t have an electrical reader of any sort I was unable to check and see if my control module/motor were working properly. The motor “seemed” fine but I’m not an expert so I was just looking at it cosmetically.
After all of this I looked up how to put the washer in a diagnostic mode. Once in the diagnostic mode I performed a few tests to see what all was working. The washer will do everything BUT any of the spin diagnostics. It will fill up with hot/cold water (I found this curious because it won’t do it when the washer is out of diagnostic mode). It will light up to check all LED’s, and it will pump water out. Just not spin. I also got some codes (Hopefully I wrote them down right): 52, 48, 22.
A friend of mine is convinced that it is the pump and that I need to replace it…but I’m not so sure. When I go home today I’ll try the “Master Rest” but hopefully you have some suggestions so I don’t go and buy numerous/unnecessary parts! Thank you so much!
My problem, after replacing the door lock switch, and also, doing the resets. It ended up being the Motor Control Board or Spin Control Board, which is located at the rear, left bottom of my Sears-Kenmore [Frigidaire] front loading washer. I was able to access one on eBay, after I did thorough research of my particular model. I saved mega bucks by installing the new board myself. My Control Board was held down by only 2 Philips head screws and is connected by a wiring harness that is easily unplugged. Please make sure your machine is unplugged and that you are grounded when you ‘touch’ your New Control Board…… Again, Computers are sensitive, even to static. My machine, over ten years old, is up and running again. Plus, I am aware of the time-bomb with the inner stainless steel tub that is connected to the Aluminum spider assembly which holds the shaft…….Corrosion issues! Hope you can find my previous comments made several weeks, months ago. I really have researched this. The Control/Spin Board is a very easy fix for you!
Leo,
Were the door lock assy you bought OEM or generic replacements? If after installing the door lock the machine worked, but the second wash attempt did not, then either a sensor or possibly wiring is to blame. Does the current door lock assy test ok with a meter?
-RR
Jean-Guy,
Have you taken apart the control panel and inspected for loose wire harnesses? Check wires to be sure the vibration has not loosened something. If all else checks out you may need to look into replacing the board or timer.
-RR
Thanks for your prompt response. I failed to mention that my machine is front load and and as you mentioned, the pump does not seem to be the culprit of the SPIN cycle not engaging since it works when I managed to bypass manually the 9 min mark on the Quick Wash program (where it got stuck for a patient 10-15 min.) I suspect the timer in the electronics panel is at fault because when the program reaches 9 min the machine makes a little noise and then nothing follows. This seems to repeat every 2-3 minutes. I would not know how to identify the timer component of the electronics panel…..
Thank you so much for your wonderful master reset tip that got my Frigidaire Affinity Front Load Washer (ATF8000FS1) to start. The nagging problem is its inability to start even though all the lights are on. I even replaced the door lock assembly twice to no avail (worked once or twice). Your tip got it to start; however, the second load did not work and I had to press the Start button quickly many times to get it to start again.
So, it appears the washer is still having some problems by not starting consistently. Do you have any suggestions? I have tried to ask a repairman to come but had to cancel because I got it to start after replacing the door lock assembly but then it failed again. Another problem is the location of the washer as it is stacked beneath a dryer in a tight closet. Thus, having it repaired could be very costly due to the placement. Otherwise, I would think I could attempt some repairs myself.
Kim,
If the washer works fine when removing the drain tube to floor level, that means either the drain tube is positioned too high up, the drain in the wall is clogged, or both. First determine if the drain hose is positioned properly. If so, you may need to have someone come out and check the actual drain in the wall to be sure it is not plugged up.
-RR
Jean-Guy,
You may have 2 problems. Yes the broken blade can be an issue but if it drains at one point and not another, than not likely your MAIN cause. Most likely you have a wacky lid switch or a timer that has bad or burned spots. If you have a multimeter test the timer and while you are at it have a look at the lid switch. Make sure switch is aligned properly.
-RR
I have an Amana washer Model NFW7200TW and after the machine completes the wash rinse cycle, the spin cycle does not engage. It is like if the timer is out of wack. Is the computer at fault here? The pump does not drain the water properly, only in the middle of the wash cycle. I opened the back panel and removed the pump. Upon examination, I noticed that one of the 3 blades is broken. I assume there is imbalance in the functioning of the pump. Can it be the cause of the erratic working of the spin cycle?
Our Amana front loading washer was making a low pitched gravely sound (not buzzing) and would not drain. We purchased and installed a new pump, but the same thing happened. If I lower the drain tubing the water does flow out and then the spin cycle will work. Any ideas what else could be wrong?
MY MAYTAG TOP LOADING WASHER WILL NOT COMPLETE THE SPIN CYCLE. IT WAS MOVED FROM A FIRST FLOOR LOCATION WHERE IT DRAINED INTO A STANDPIPE NEXT TO THE WASHER. I MOVED IT TO A BASEMENT LOCATION AT ANOTHER SITE THAT WAS PREVIOUSLY SET UP TO DRAIN WASHER OVERHEAD AN DOWN INTO A CEILING DRAIN. THIS MACHINE HAS A REAR DRAIN HOSE LOCATED AT THE REAR AND BOTTOM OF THE MACHINE. dOES IT REQUIRE A IN-LINE CHECK VALVE TO FASCILITATE DRAINING?? iT SHUT DOWN HALWAY THRU THE SPIN CYCLE AS IF THE WATER IS DRAINING BACK INTO THE HOSE AND SHUTTING THE MACHINE DOWN???
Rubbie,
Either lid switch or drain pump.
Most likely the lid switch.
Buy one on Amazon or SearsPartsDirect for around 15 dollars.
-RR
Rick,
What is the model number of your Kenmore Top Loader?
Could be lid switch, clogged drain pump, or bad timer.
-RR
Follow up to our Washing Machine issue….
Threw it out, bought a new one. Loving the new one. Problem solved!
Kenmore top loader. It will fill and agitate but it will not spin and empty the water and the time does not progress.
It worked! Who would have thought that unplugging it and opening/closing the lid would reset the mechanism!!! Not me. Mine is working like a dream. Thanks for the money-saving tip!
i have a 10 year old Kenmore top loader washer. It does not spin on the rinse cycle or drain. What could be the problem?
Becky,
You may have a bad timer mechanism. If you have to move the timer to another setting after the initial wash cycle did not complete properly, you should test or replace the timer. We are assuming you have a another top load washer. What is the model number of your used Kenmore washer?
-RR
I had a Maytag top load that stopped draining and spinning. My husband took it out and bought a used Kenmore to replace it. It is now doing the same thing after only one week. However, if I run a drain and spin cycle after the normal cycle has finished, it will usually go ahead and drain and spin out the clothes. Any suggestions on this?
Melissa,
You may have an issue with the water pressure switch or possibly the control panel / timer. Check wiring behind control panel to be sure all wire harnesses are secure and attached.
-RR
I have a Samsung top loader (model WA400PJHDWR/AA) that runs through the cycles, but at the end, spins and instead of stopping, either starts the rinse cycle all over again or starts all the way at the beginning again! Is there anything I can try to fix it?
Shanna,
Have a look at the drain pump and hose. The drain pump may be clogged up or the drain hose could be kinked. What model number is your Maytag washer?
-RR
I have a Maytag washer and it washes but doesn’t drain well. We end up wring out the clothes at the bottom of washer
Leo,
The most likely reason for a top load washer to spins on occasion is……. The motor coupler or coupling is beginning to wear out slowly. As you probably know it is made of a hard plastic or hard rubber material. We would first suggest to open the washer up and check the coupling. You will probably see extreme wear meaning this is your issue and this is what needs to be replaced to fix the NO SPIN issue. Remove and replace.
-RR
Hi, I am glad to find this website. I have a top load Whirlpool washer, and have an issue with spinning. It agitates fine, drains fine, but won’t spin. I can hear a good motor sound though during spin cycle. Interestingly, sometimes it does spin. After going through websites, I changed the lid switch, but did not work. Now I am thinking of issues of broken motor coupling or clutching. Am I going in the right direction? Any other suggestion to pinpoint where is the problem? Thank you.
Ramadas,
It may be that the tub is off balance or a part inside the washer is loose. The only option is to open the panel up and look inside for any obvious signs of a problem.
Try running the washer on the shortest cycle empty and see if the noise is still present.
-RR
I have a Samsung 13Kg Top Loader Nano Silver Washing Machine. Could be a 2003 – 2005 Model.
It Washes and works well except that recently, it started picking up like a ratchet clicking noise during the wash cycle only.
The Spin/rinse all works well and the drain also works well.
Tried the MASTER RESET and it FIXED my problem in one minute!!
Wish I had not purchased and installed the control timer before doing that :)
Thank you very much for the tip!
Great public service for DIYrs…
Harriett,
If the timer is stopping the washer from going from spin to drain, then you may have a bad timer. It may also be that the drain pump is so clogged and the timer tries to let it drain but shuts off. You can try checking to be sure the drain pump is not clogged therefore not letting the washer drain.
Does the washer spin or just agitate? Does the washer complete all cycles but at the end it won’t drain? You could also have a lid switch issue depending on what point your washer stops.
What Whirlpool washing machine model number do you have?
-RR
Lee,
You have 2 problems, vibration/shaking and timer washer cycles out of sync.
For the vibrating shaking issue, check to be sure that the springs or straps are in place that hold the tub centered.
For the timing sequence issue, either some wiring is backwards or possibly the timer itself is not working properly.
Have you opened the washing machine and just done a simple visual check yet?
-RR
The washer says Kenmore 800. We bought it about 4 years ago because it only uses the amount of water required by the weight of the clothes. Two problems: wobbles and roars even without a load. With a load the whole house shakes. All other functions are fine, except that the sequence appears to be shifted, i.e., what I expect at the beginning of a cycle occurs at the end. I usually hear the water valves opening and the tub filling–instead we start right off with agitation and the sound of filling in the background. At the end of the spin cycle instead of stopping, the tub begins to fill, continues until the tub is 1/3 full, then stops. It’s as if the timer was late for Act I and then at the end of Act III couldn’t stand to go home and thus started Act I again.
I have a Whirlpool top loader. It will not spin the water out after the wash cycle. It’s like the timer stops, because there’s a cut off sound from the timer after the wash . Help .
Saif,
Depending on make and model of your washer, there may be a speed sensor malfunction or you are overfilling with clothing. What company makes your washer and what is the model number?
-RR
I have a front load washer and it works fine, the only problem is it has some difficult time to start the final spin cycle or it starts spinning but once it builds up the speed it stops and adds up time and fill water as a rinse cycle.
Jenny: Hope you can read some of my earlier comments on my experience with my Kenmore front loading washer [made by Frigidaire for Sears–Canada]. My unit is 10 years old. A couple of years ago, my inside Stainless Steel Tub with spyder arm shaft assembly was replaced, along with the Rear Outer Drum assembly [I say “assembly” because the inner and outer bearings are pre-installed in the Rear Outer Drum]. Prior to this ‘repair’ the Washer inside Stainless Steel drum was ‘banging’ loudly. The reason for this is that the design of the spyder assembly which is attached to the Stainless Steel drum “fails”, due to the drum being of Stainless Steel. The Spyder arm assembly supporting the shaft is Aluminum……”Corrosion” issues! Since then, I have had “spin issues”. Tried “Reset”, tried replacement of Door Lock assembly…….it turned out to be the Motor Control Board or Spin Control Board. This, on my model, is a ‘computer board’ located at the left rear bottom of my washer. This was the Problem. I got one from eBay and put it in myself….it was easy as there is only one wire harness attachment and two screws holding it in the machine. From my research, the ‘design’ of front load washers like mine is ‘flawed’ due to the metal corrosion. And also, it’s a ‘racket’, because when your Stainless Steel inside drum gives out due to the spyder arm assembly ‘breaking’, it starts “banging loudly”—it tends to ‘damage’ the Rear Outer plastic drum—thus a replacement of that is also needed to complete the repair. You can get a pair of bearings for the rear Outer Drum on eBay—-and if you think your Stainless Steel Inner drum wobbles too much…..Before it starts “banging” and doing more damage…..it may be time to get some bearings to have on hand, And if you’re lucky, you can take out the two old ‘bearings’ and tap in the ‘new ones’. I say “lucky” because if your Spyder Arm Assembly is not ‘broken’, it could mean that only the ‘bearings’ need replacement. [The bearings—2 of them, come with a bearing seal]. This way, you won’t be put out over $200 plus just to buy a whole Rear Outer Tub with bearings already installed! My machine in Canada was warrantied by Sears—for 25 Years. Now, I know why! There are DIY videos galore on the internet for repairs!
Jenny,
It may be possible that you have a loose wiring harness therefore the washer works sometimes. Trace all the wires from the control panel and make sure all wires are connected and secure.
-RR
I have a front loader Beko WMB651441L. It sometimes works normally and sometimes the drum is not spinning the full circle at the start and is making a lot of noise. I have to try and reset and wait at least 3 times to get it going again. A recommended by a friend technician came but it was working normally do he thinks is the control panel or computer. Does someone know what’s wrong with it. It is second hand and no receipt is under 2 years old.
Chris,
Front load washers do not have the typical lid switch, your washer has a door latch switch. The door latch switch could be your issue. You can test any electrical part with a multi-meter to be sure it is working properly. You may also have other issues. You may want to trace all the wiring and be sure no wire harnesses have come loose or detached. What is your model number?
-RR
I have Whirlpool front loading washing machine that will fill with water then it will do nothing with the water sitting in the drum. Do I have a lid switch problem ? And how do you test that ?
Anna,
Check the lid switch and the drain pump. If the washer cannot drain it will not spin. Drain pump may be clogged. Also if your washer has a drain filter, clean it out and replace and see if that fixes the issue.
-RR
Shelley,
The LR code means “locked rotor”. This tells you the control is not seeing the motor turning. When the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning. The LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but cannot. The error code can be caused by to large of a clothing load. Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
-RR
I have a Maytag Neptune front load washer that is about 12 years old. It fills with water and does nothing else….the time runs through the cycle with the door locked and when the cycle ends we have to bail the water out. It did show a LR error code last night once. Any ideas??
I have a Fisher And Paykel washer fresh 5.0 smart drive 9 that won’t spin. This is the first time it’s happened. And ideas of what’s wrong with it? It also still has water in it that wont drain for some reason.
Zeillie,
Have you checked lid switch? Is washer out of balance when in a cycle? Tub seems to be off center? If not draining the pump could be clogged therefore making the washer have trouble draining properly. DO you have a multimeter?
-RR
Our washer (a Kenmore 80 series top-loader) recently stopped spinning yesterday. I think the main cause might be overloading the washer too much. The rinse part works perfectly, except it does not drain the water probably due to the spinner/drum not working. I’ve also noticed the drum part surrounding the interior seems a bit off, one side locked in and the other side looks a bit loopy? (sorry for the inadequate wording and phrases). I’ll be thankful for any answers.
Dan,
The LG washer UE error does mean the machine is not balanced. We understand you leveled the floor but is the washer drum off center? The washer may also have a bad sensor or part of the control board that is telling the washer it is off balance when in fact it is not. You may also want to trace all wires to be sure they are securely connected and in place.
-RR
My lg front loader washer agitates in each mode works great thru the whole cycle and spins slow but the last 10 min during the rinse and spin cycle the timer stays at 10 and agitates back and forth for awhile still staying at 10 min until it shuts off blinking UE, I’ve tried unplugging for a couple min opening and closing the door a bunch of times that someone posted to try and sit thru almost each mode still the same result, the washer came with the house I bought this last January it just started acting up and I put a level on it and It was not level front to back by a lot so I leveled it, unplugged, and tried again still the same. Please help before I call service guy and he steals my hard earned money.
Looking under the machine, all the springs look to be in place and intact. Shifting the tub around and it springs back to a central position. The washer does work properly despite the clicking.
Lloyd,
Possibly it is out of balance. Have you checked under machine to be sure the springs that hold the drum center are in place? Does washer still work properly despite the clicking?
-RR
It is a top load washer.
Maytag
LSQ9549PW2
Zaid,
Please give us Model Number of your Samsung washing machine. Also, are you having to move the drain hose around each time you do a wash cycle? Please explain further.
-RR
I have a Samsung washer 4yrs old which will not spin. I manage to drain the water out by low the hose down then redo the washing sequence with low level, then on wash its agitates only on the right then after draining again i lower the hose down and taking it on spin its spin but not fast.
It is a top loader.
Whirlpool.
Model LSQ9549PW2
Lloyd,
Is it a front load or top load washer? The brand and model number will help us to assist you.
-RR
Hi, I have a washing machine that is producing a clicking noise as the spin cycle begins and starts to get up to speed. The clicking is in sync with the speed of the spin, so as the spin cycle accelerates, so does the clicking. The odd thing is that just before the spin cycle is at full speed, the clicking stops. Any ideas on what I can look for?
Scott,
Was the past wash load over filled? May have set it off balance. What is the model number?
-RR
Vick,
What is the model number of your Samsung front load washer?
-RR
Hi ,i have a frontloader samsung washing machine.It goes through wash and rinse cycles.when it goes to spin cycle the timer changes the timming of cycle and does not spin.i could hear drain pump operating and sounds like it wants to spin but doesnt spin.what could be the issues?
I have a Samsung top load washer, it was working fine, now for some reason the inner tub and whatever the other blue ring is are grinding on each other any ideas on what it could be, its level. But for some reason it started doing it. I’m clueless
Kayla,
Then you may have a balance or off center issue.
-RR
What if my washing machine will spin very small loads, but not regular size loads? So it does spin sometimes, but not always..
If you’re working with a Front Loader Washer, I have found that my Kenmore ‘made by Frigidaire’ problem turned out to be the Motor Control Board [please check my earlier long write-up]….. The problem was not in the reset, nor was it in the door Switch. The Motor Control Board [Spin Board] is located to the left rear of the machine. I got a replacement from eBay. Please/Please handle your ‘replacement part’ with care….it may come in a bubble pack. Remember, this is a ‘computer board’ and is ‘fragile’. I replaced my Board and everything is back to normal. I have a ten-plus year old machine. The devil in the details with certain front loaders is the Stainless Steel Drum and ‘corrosion’ problems with the spider bracket made out of Aluminum, and eventually this tends to wear out the Bearings!
Dennis.
Yes it sounds like the timer assembly is on the fritz. If your Kenmore washing machine is model number 11082874820, then here is the Kenmore washer timer you need to fix your washer problems. Could also be the lid switch performing in a strange way. Here is the lid switch that MAY be causing issues also.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 70 series washer model 110 it was in storage for quite a while before I got it. I was told it had not been used much. I traded some old coins for it as I am on disability and could not afford to buy a washer but needed one. It washes awesome drains great but does not spin. I take the knob and turn it all the way around to a mark I made on the dial and it then will spin and spray water as normal. Then on the rinse cycle it does the same thing. Sometimes it will work normal and spin for all cycles correctly sometimes it spins correctly on the extra rinse cycle correctly and sometimes not. I was told its junk I was told its the timer I was told so many different things I have no idea but I cannot afford a new washer but it does clean great just wish I did not have to stand there while doing laundry. Can anyone help???
Ethan,
Sounds like a control board issue. Be sure all wire harnesses are secure. Test machine completely empty. If still an issue replace control board.
-RR
My Whirlpool washing machine, model number WTW4850XQ0 is not completing its spin cycle. It will complete its wash cycle but when the load is done the clothes are still soaking wet. When I try to run a drain and spin cycle it will seem like it’s trying to start but then the lid lock will flash. Cancelling the cycle will cause the spin light to turn off but the lid lock light will continue to flash until I either unplug the washing machine or let it sit until it eventually turns off and unlocks on its own. Any suggestions on what I need to do to fix this?
Zar,
Bad Bearing?
-RR
I do not have a tester to be able to check the motor. However, I had removed the back panel and set the knob to spin and everything was functioning and moving freely. The belt and pulleys were moving normally but the wash tub did not move…
ZAR,
Have you tested the motor?
-RR
We have an older Kenmore Heavy Duty washer that stopped operating during the spin cycle (wont spin). I spent some time inspecting the washer and everything mechanical appears to be working properly. I checked the belt and all the the pulleys are fine.I took the agitator off and inspected the shaft,all looks fine, I by-passed the lid switch,still nothing, I would appreciate any help,If its a “fixable” job, would rather do that then shell out the money for a new one…
Larry,
It may be possible that the heavy load of rugs may have knocked some springs off the drum causing it to become off balance. The hum may be the motor trying to turn the drum but cannot if the springs are off. This may or may not be the case. However… You will need to open the service panel and see if the drum is centered or possibly something else may have broke inside the washer.
-RR
5 Yr old GE top load washer will not handle anything other than lite load. Wife washed two rugs and washer stopped completely. Has water in tub and will not do anything but hum. Unplugged, lifted lid 5-6 times, and tried a couple other fixes to reset with no luck. Model is GTWN4950L0WS. Any / all suggestions to try are appreciated.
Maryposita,
What is the error code on your Whirlpool top load?
-RR
Shoey,
Please tell us make and model number of washer.
-RR
first tried to do a wash but the water hose was not on to fill the machine.
I went to check on it and saw the error code this is how I found out the water was shut off.
Now my washer door is locked and I can not open it.
It is making a buzzing sound like it is trying to drain the water out. there is no water to drain. the door lock light is flashing.
My Whirlpool top load washer machine washes, but when is about to drain and spin, at the end of the cycle, it gives an error code. I try opening the door and it goes back to the last 12 minutes. It can go as far as the last 10 then it stops, gives the error code and I open the door and boom, ,back to the last 12 minute. The complete cycle is about 40 minutes, but it just won’t go past the last 12.
Ann Marie,
Most likely your washer has a bad lid switch. Ir it could be a clogged drain pump that needs to be unclogged and cleaned.
-RR
My whirlpool washer won’t spin or drain it washes and fills with water just won’t drain or spin
Gail,
Is the water fully drained out of the washer?
Have you tried unplugging machine for 30 seconds to reset?
You can hold down chime and delay til a code comes up. Then turn off washer and then back on. Hold down control knob 10 sec turn off again and restart as usual.
-RR
Thank you for the unplug/reset washer. I was so happy that it worked. Thank You Thank You
Hi trying to unlock the child lock on my Amana front load washing machine, book tells me to press soil level and signal buttons but I don’t know what the signal button is, I thought it was the chime button but I don’t think that is right. Can you help me please?
Kelly,
What error code? Make and Model?
-RR
hi we have a top loader that washes but wont spin it throws out an error. have tried the reset and the no problem with door. please help
If you can find my earlier comments re my Kenmore front loader, they may be quite useful. My problem with the ‘not spinning’ with a proper laundry load turned out to be the Motor Control Board [which is situated at the rear left bottom of the washer and is held in place by two Phillips screws & a circuit plug. This is a fragile item. And if you do decide to replace it with one from eBay, etc., please handle it with care as it is it’s own computer board [these things are fragile]. I initially did a Reset….no-go. Then I replaced the front door switch — still, no-go. It turned out to be the Motor Control Board [or Spin Control Model—another name for it]. There is a Devil in front loaders and that is the Stainless Steel Drum is attached to an Aluminum spider arm bracket which houses the shaft that juts out of the rear of the unit, thru the outer rear plastic drum and is attacked to the belt-driven wheel, in order to turn the drum. Corrosion issues occur with these two different metals coming in contact, and thus, the bearings eventually fail. Good luck, and there are some good DIY videos on YouTube. Respects, from Canada. ‘H’
Gloria,
Possible lid switch fault. Also maybe a clogged drain pump. Open and clean drain pump first. USE CAUTION!
-RR
Vimala,
Could be a timer or loose wiring. Open washer and visually inspect.
-RR
i have a samsung washer model number is wa456drhdsu/aa,washer won’t spin or wash unless i take the back off and wiggle the tub then it will wash or spin and after 20 minutes of doing that it will finish on it own and if i put a load in right after that one it will do fine
Hello,
I hope someone can help me with my problem. I have a Whirlpool Duet front loading washer that will not spin. First, I cleared and emptied the drain plug. That was nasty and plugged with some sort of plastic. Turned on and still no spin. Removed the back and seen that the drive belt had slipped off but not damaged. I tried to put it back on but the pulley has seized. It’s like something is stuck in it and not letting it move. I can move it about an inch or so but no further. Please tell me this is NOT the gear shaft that needs replacing. From everything I have seen on this it will be a pain to take apart and replace. Everything I have inspected so far looks good, no corrosion, leaks wear or tear. It just seems as though it is STUCK. Can you help?? I appreciate any advice. Thank you ;)
I own a LG 7 kg Turbo Fuzzy logic Top load washing machine. From the past one month it is not working properly. The programme is going higher and higher and the timer is going back and forth again and again without completing the washing. For example when I set it to 48 minutes, it works till 24 minutes and goes back to 35 minutes then once again when it reaches 18 minutes it goes back to 35 minutes. I don’t understand what is wrong.
RR!
Extremely impressed with how long you’ve been keeping up with the comments on this page. Kudos to your dedication. I also have an issue with my washer
Short backstory, I moved, kept the washer in storage for a little over 1.5 years. Just installed it in my new home, and the spin cycle doesn’t work. The agitator works, the pressure switch (which was behind the load size dial) is free of obstructions. The machine stops humming away when i open the lid, and during the spin cycle the machine is making noise and pumping out water.
I’m pretty sure I’ll need a new part, but I don’t want to get the wrong one for my machine.
It’s a Kenmore Model #110.26632500 if that helps. I looked on a replacement parts page and didn’t see a belt as possible replacement part. What do you think it is?
I have a Kenmore model 23832100 series 80 washer. It will go through the wash cycle, but the water will not drain and will not spin. I can hear the clicking sound as if is going to the next cycle, but nothing happens. It was in the middle of the washing when a circuit was over loaded and had to be reset. I have tried going thru all the cycle, but the same thing continues to happen the water remains and no spinning. Any ideas?
i have a beko washing machine that will not drain or spin or even end cycle just keeps going its full off water still
Hi,
I have a Candy Aquamatic T10 washing machine that refuses to enter the spin cycle. It washes and spins normally, but just sits there making a slow ticking noise during the spin cycle. It drains fine and doesn’t appear to be clogged. Any ideas on what might be causing this?
Hi,
My top loading Samsung washing machine stopped spinning and draining Water after i in rush had switched off the machine while it was washing. What should i do? Please help!
My whirlpool front loader washing machine when it wants to spin its blinking on the timer like there is a short circuit and the motor just kick but doesn’t move but its draining water nicely
Hello Folks, I have a Kenmore front loader purchased in 2006. It had stopped spinning and overflowed. I opened it up and saw that the belt was okay, motor had no signs of burning out and decided to try it again on rinse/spin. It started to fill up but the did not spin. The pump was working as it was pushing the water out.
I then decided to try to perform the Master Reset. Afterwards there was nothing. Won’t even fill up. Is it the switch in the door?
I did see that the suspension bar on one side was broken and will replace it but I’m sure that’s not the cause.
I appreciate your input.
Dave,
You are correct on that assumption. If the washer is periodically NOT going through all wash cycles, then the timer is most likely the issue. However, their may be a loose wire harness on the timer or control board or elsewhere or possibly the lid switch is on the fritz. Be sure to check the wiring to make sure it is secure. If all wiring is secure, then we would recommend to TEST THE WASHING MACHINE TIMER with a meter. If that proves to be working correctly, then the board will need replaced. It does sound like it may be a faulty timer, but check it to be completely sure before you spend the $50 to $150 dollars first.
-RR
Hello,
We used the washer today. A couple loads the we had the same problem. Then on a couple small loads it worked properly. Then would not spin / rinse on a load. The last two loads worked normal. Does this sound like more of a timer problem then a board problem? I would think if the board were bad that it would be bad all the time. Thoughts?
Dave,
If the washer is starting the wash cycle when left long enough SOMETIMES, it sounds like either the timer has bad spots, or the control board attached to bottom of timer may be experiencing periodic issues. The timer sounds like it is working mechanically since it advances, but the electrical part of it may be the problem. You could remove the timer, inspect it, and be sure the wiring is secure. You should also be able to test it with a meter. Once you do this, you will be able to know which is the problem. If the wiring on timer is secure and not burned, it tests good with a meter, then you will know it is the control board under the timer.
A faulty timer will work on some cycles and not others. A timer contact that controls that particular cycle may be stuck in the open position. Check the timer for continuity on the contacts.
-RR
Yes the circuit board is on the bottom of the timer. No change to the timer that I can tell. After the wash cycle the machine stops. The timer is still ticking and moving, but the machine usually does not do anything. Sometimes if you leave is long enough, it will start the wash cycle again, but never the rinse cycle. The only way we can get it to drain he water is to move the timer to the extra rinse. During the extra rinse, all it does is drain the water. There is no rinse water added.
Tizoc,
If your front load washer is going into the spin dry cycle but moving slow, it may be sensing that the load is to full. This could also indicate a motor speed issue or central control unit issue. Have you ran the washer on a full wash cycle empty? Doing this will tell you if the washer is seeing a overload issue or not. If running empty results in the same slow spin, then further troubleshooting will be needed. As we said, it may be a motor speed issue or central control unit problem. Also, could you let us know if your washer model number is WFW94HEAC0 or WFW94HEAC2 so we can further help to troubleshoot?
-RR
Mary,
Do you have a front load or top load washer? If top loader, it may be the lid switch. Let us know and we can assist further.
-RR
Vicki,
You may have a clogged drain filter if you have a front load washer. Pull out filter and clean. If you have a top loader, you may have a clogged pump, kinked drain hose or other. Can you tell us which washer you are having draining issues with? Make and model number please?
-RR
Dave,
For the issue you have described, it is most likely the timer but more troubleshooting should be done. The board you are talking about is the temp control board that is below the timer, correct? Does the timer feel as if the motor mechanism is easier to turn, harder to turn, or no change at all? What exactly happens after the wash cycle completes, you said it just stops, is there any clicking or unusual noises coming from the washer at this time? If you let the washer sit at this point, you said sometimes it will go into the rinse cycle. Do you have to ALWAYS turn the timer to get it into the rinse cycle or if left long enough does it go into the cycle itself?
-RR
We have a Maytag washer, model# MAV6000AWW, serial # 10496372WY. It fills and goes through the fill and wash cycle fine, but then stops. If you leave it long enough, sometimes it will start to agitate again when it has moved to the rinse cycle. Occasionally if you turned the dial all the way around to rinse it would work for a load. Next load it would do the same thing. That final stopped working also, Then we started moving the dial to the extra rinse position and that worked. After washing a couple loads this way, the washer would no longer do anything. Found that the GFI was popped. I ordered a new timer. Did some more reading and found that it might be the mother board. Pulled the timer and mother board, nothing looks burnt. Don’t want to open the timer package if the board is the problem. Ideas? Thanks!
My washer will not drain all the water out…. It pauses at the Last cycle….why? How to fix??
My kenmore washer is coming on like it’s going to wash but it isn’t turning. I don’t know why?
I have a whirlpool model number WFW94HEAC front load. Everything works fine until it’s time to spin dry. It looks as if it’s going to spin and actually does so but at a very slow pace. The time stays the same and it keeps repeating this cycle. Clothes are still very damp. Please help! Thanks!
Richard,
If you have checked every internal mechanical part that allows the washer to spin and all is good (including lid switch), then yes the timer MAY be the issue. The timer is not cheap. Our appliance parts database shows $126.22 US dollars.
-RR
I have tested the lid switch it works properly. I ran a cycle it fills fine it agitates but when it comes to the spin cycle it makes a clicking noise from the timer switch and will not drain. Thank you for all your help in the matter
I have not tested the lid switch but it appears to be working when I open the lid it stops allowing water to enter the drum. The coupler part number is 3364003 and the timer is part number 3953321. I am currently running the machine to see if it is the lid issue
Richard,
It may be the timer but is difficult to say if you have just replaced the motor coupler. Have you tested the lid switch? Does the washer agitate and when it comes to spin does nothing? Using the schematics in this Sears Whirlpool parts list, can you tell us the part number you replaced for the coupler and the part number of the timer you assume may be bad? Is this the timer you will be replacing?
-RR
Hello ,
I have a whirlpool model number LSQ8243HQ0. My machine makes a weird humming noise from the control panel I removed the panel and it was coming from the timer and will not spin. I checked the coupler is was broken I replaced and still it will not spin. I have cleaned out the water pump still will not spin. I contacted my local appliance store and they attempted to sell me a new washing machine. I found a timer switch for a decent price how can you tell for sure that it is the timer that is broken thanks !
Greg,
If the motor is running but the drum is not spinning, your washer may have a Frozen Pump Pulley or a Broken Pump Belt. If you want to check the pulley, remove the pump and try to rotate the pulley by hand. If it doesn’t turn freely then replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks worn out you can replace it. Make sure you check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
-RR
My Samsung SW50ASP top-loader fills, drains and spins just fine, but when it’s trying to wash or rinse it makes a grating noise and the drum and impeller don’t seem to move, despite the motor turning. The control panel shows no errors. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
Adria,
The problem you are describing is most likely the timer motor itself. It may have a short therefore causing the spin cycle to be skipped over. You can use a multimeter to test it to be sure. If you do find it to be bad, make sure to replace the complete timer and motor assembly.
-RR
I have a kenmore 700 series, top loading washer, runs fine until it gets to the spin cycle, it just skips over it, and when i open the lid its full of water, however when i turn the dial to spin again, it spins and works fine, its getting annoying to have to turn the dial back to get it to spin the clothes. any fixes?
To: DIY Project Help Tips
I can’t begin to tell you how much your kind words of appreciation for my humble comments means to me. “RR” — my comments are from ‘real experience’ and I appreciate support from DIY videos and this site. I have my Kenmore front load washer [13 years old now], after a steel inner tub replacement only 2 years ago, which also required the rear outer plastic tub with installed bearings to be replaced. And, as you no doubt know, when the ‘banging starts’, it’s replacement time and those rear bearings & seal and shot! In anticipation of the next failure, I got a complete Kenmore set of rear outer plastic tub bearings – 2 bearings [outer & inner] plus the seal — purchased from eBay. I also purchased the outer tub Gasket. I have memorized the procedure to take my machine apart from watching the various DIY Repair Videos on line. It’s a biggy when it comes to DIY, but you indeed will be making your own $100 an hour by going thru the procedures. My ‘Kenmore’, which is a Frigidaire model, which also has Westinghouse parts……I had to be an Inspector Colombo to track these numbers down, but I now know them ‘by site’, and the fear is gone! I am lucky, in Canada, because there is a 25-year Warranty on the inner Stainless Steel Tub …. Now, I know Why…..it’s the corrosion issues with the spider Aluminum arms on the rear of the Stainless Steel Tub……they will surely, eventually fail! I would stress to other front-loader owners to reduce their HE soap to only 1 Tablespoon and make sure they rinse & drain their washings. The reason is, I have found, the front loaders do not use anywhere near the amount of Water in the wash, and if you continue to use a lot of soap…….Well, corrosion problems! I used to change Rollerskate bearings and Motorcycle bearings, so I know not to damage the races when I install new ones. Another ‘scheme’ is that with my particular washer, when they replace the Stainless Steel Inner Tub ‘for free’……you have to also buy the outer Rear Tub with the pre-installed bearings….and that will run you over $200 Cdn, or even more today. So, if you run into this problem, and are lucky enough to find a set of bearings on-line for around $45.00 and have the spare time……You will indeed make $100 per hour salary for you, plus saving $150.00 on not having to buy a complete Rear Outer Tub housing with bearings! Thx again, for appreciate my humble efforts! Regards, from Canada, ‘H’
John,
Thank you very much for your helpful and useful comments. We appreciate them and so does all the thousands of people having problems with their washing machine. Please keep giving your helpful advice!! You are helping many people! Thanks again!
-RR
Hi, Matt. I have a 13-year old ‘Kenmore’ [made by Frigidaire] front loading washer. To make a long story short — please check to see what your Warranty covers, ie: Inner Stainless Steel Drum, etc. What I have discovered with my front-loader is that a common problem is the Stainless Steel Inner Drum — at the rear of this drum there is a spider assembly made out of Aluminum which supports the shaft that protrudes through the rear outer plastic Rear Outer Drum to run the belt-driven wheel [in my model]. There is Heavy noise, first. Then when it gets worse…..banging, which will destroy the outer Plastic Rear Tub and its Bearings. The problem with the Stainless Steel and Aluminum marriage on the Inner Drum is that ‘corrosion’ issues happen with these two different metals, and the Bearings can also fail. When the corrosion becomes serious enough, the spider arm [Aluminum] that supports the Shaft that enables the drum to spin —- one of these arms, from heavy corrosion, Breaks! This is the Devil in the Details! Please check this out for yourself. Good luck and best wishes, from Canada, ‘H’
LL LAVAREZ,
You may have belt, wiring, or a motor issue. It is difficult to say without more information. Does the washer work properly? Is it only when in dryer mode the machine is not working? Do you hear any noise at all when trying to run the dryer? Please give us more details.
-RR
Matt,
If it has been noisy for some time and now your Beko washer is now not spinning, you may have a motor, coupler, direct drive, or belt problem depending on your washer model. We recommend to unplug, open service panel and with a flashlight, see if there are obvious signs of wear or breakage. The noise indicated a problem and should have been investigated when it first started.
-RR
I have a Beko front loading washing machine and for a few weeks now it’s been very noisy whilst spinning. That noisy that it drowns out the TV. This morning it’s stopped spinning. I thought it might be the bearings but I wondered if there’s an easier and cheaper solution to my problem?
Hi, My washing machine is Sharp capable of doing washing and drying. The problem is the spin dryer does not rotate when timer is set. What could be wrong with the spin dryer? Model # ES5510TSW
When I had a build-up of water in my front door gasket, it was due to the rubber gasket design. An improved design gasket which allowed the water to properly drain into the tub was installed, and that solved the problem on my ‘Kenmore’ [Frigidaire 970-C48112-10] front load washer.
Mark,
Are you using liquid HE washing machine detergent? If so how much do you use? What brand? You are putting it in the detergent compartment and not directly in the tub right?
Are you saying there is a buildup of suds on the bottom of the rubber door gasket? Your washer drains out the water, correct?
You are simply having an issue with too many suds on the door seal gasket after the cycle ends yes?
-RR
I made and error in my previous post. I have a front loading HE Kenmore 48102701 washing machine. It will not drain at the bottom of the door seal/gasket. There is a large build up of soap suds after the cycle completes. I have reduced the amount of detergent that I use, but with the same result only fewer suds. Do you have any advice or suggestions?
I have a Frigidaire front loading HE washer. There is an excessive amount of water and soap suds in the door seal/gasket at the bottom. I have cut down on the soap and have the same result only with less suds. Do you have any advice?
Tony,
Corrective action is Evaluate wire harness for loose or unhooked connections then go to Quick Test Mode to test motor. Your issue could be the hall sensor also. Have you checked that as well?
-RR
I have a Samsung WA400. Couple of years and multiple headaches later I am still struggling with this washer. I had the Samsung repairman move my pump motor in reference to a tech bulletin. I have already gone through one motor prior to that. After the technician left, the washer worked well for about two weeks. Now I get 3E errors or the washer bangs around hard on spin cycle and resets itself, adding 20ish minutes.
Lisa,
If your Kenmore 90 washer will not spin, but makes a loud noise, it is possibly the belt is damaged or the motor is not working properly. Does the washer agitate at first? Does the drum turn at all? What do you do when the washer starts making the loud noise? Assuming the washer fills with water, does the washer drain if you put it into drain cycle? Can you describe the noise? Is it a clicking noise? One time noise? Constant noise?
-RR
Hi I have a Kenmore 90 series top loader and when it gets to the spin cycle it doesnt move and makes the loudest noise . Can you tell me what it is?
Paul,
Have you checked to see if the correct power voltage is being supplied to the motor? Could also be a wiring issue or control panel issue. You should troubleshoot further by checking all wiring and making sure the washer is getting correct power voltage. If all tests good, then motor may need replaced, test as needed.
-RR
At micro farad setting of my tester, I did connect the +(red) to the red wire of the capacitor while black(common) to the blue wire of the capacitor. All other functions are okay. My unit is now about 3 years.
Paul,
How did you test the capacitor? The capacitor needs to be tested by setting your multimeter on Ohms.
It could be another part on your washer that may be going bad. Can you tell us if the washer goes through all cycles but will just not spin? Does it drain? How old is the washer?
-RR
The spin motor of my PANASONIC NA-W507B washing machine has the following specifications:
YYG-4DE Spin Motor
230V 60Hz .57A 4P
3.8 mocofarad/450V
It comes to stop gradually and won’t start at times. I checked the capacitor through a tester and it reads 3.746. What made my spinner stop from running?
GLT,
What is make and model of your washer? If it runs through the wash cycle but the only issue is the drain cycle, you more than likely have blockage in the drain pump or drain hose. Check for foreign objects clogging the drain pump and or hose.
-RR
My washing machine stops half way through. Initially drain of water stopped so there was water left and cloths soaked in water, can you please advise if this can be repaired?
Amanda,
If the washer is tripping the breaker, you should call a professional as this could be a fire hazard.
-RR
Hi I’ve got a white knight washer that doesn’t want to finish it’s spin cycle then trips the electricity??
Thank you very much, you have been very helpful. Thinking I need to spend some time taking it apart to confirm the issue.
Amber,
So it agitates, and drains but the drum does not turn at all? Correct?
If so you may have clutch, belt, or lid switch issues.
-RR
The washer still completes the spin cycle and drains the water. The drum just does not spin. The is not a bad smell or noise that I have noticed
Amber,
You may have a bad spot on the timer itself. Sometimes if this is the case, the timer will seem to work properly but when entering some cycles of wash it will malfunction and not go into the next cycle. You may want to open the unit up and check the timer visually to be sure there is nothing burnt or damaged. Also, do you hear any strange noises or is there any odd smells coming from your washer when it is running? Here is the Users Manual for your washer if that helps.
-RR
whirlpool
WTW5310SQO
SER
CW1530344
type 111
Amber,
What is the model number of your Top Load Whirlpool washer?
-RR
I have a top load whirlpool washer. Everything works fine except the spin cycle at the end. Water still drains fine. Agitate works okay. At first I thought the problem may be the lid switch. When I open the lid, the agitate cycle stops fine and continues on when I close the lid. Does this mean it is something other than the lid switch? If so what? Thanks!
Here’s the latest on my front-load Kenmore ‘Frigidaire’ Washer DIY repair……Love all of the DIY repair videos, and they have given me the ‘confidence’ to know the ‘enemy’…..when that happens, ‘fear’ subsides and ‘dogged determination’ sets in. Latest up-date; After the master resets, the door switch replacement, I was able to get a ‘new’ Motor Control Board [aka: Spin Control Board]. THIS was the problem…..it now spins perflectly, with one exception. The new ‘problem’ can be 1 or 2 things: either worn-out bearings in the rear tub assembly [inner & outer bearings & inner bearing seal’….OR…..the Spindle arms are cracked…..OR….the shaft ^brass baseç just needs to be cleaned and lightly greased. I have now found the Devil in the details. Here it is, and I know you know what Ièm talking about—–There is a èplanned obsolenceè, or maybe not…..however, in the inner Stainless Steel tub assembly; at the rear of that assembly is a spyder-arm assembly housing the shaft that runs through the outer rear plastic Tub assembly to connect with the wheel & belt hook-up to the motor. The spyder-arm assembly is Aluminum, and is connected to the Stainless Steel Inner Drum—-two different metals—-Suicide èTime-Bomb for corrosion failures. In my country of Canada, Kenmore warranties the Stainless Steel Inner Drum for 25 years…….Now, I know WHY! The Trick is when the drum fails, with cracks in the Spyder Arms and the drum wanders all over the place—banging against the outer Rear Plastic Drum, with bearings being prematurely worn, as a direct result of the Aluminum arms cracking from corrosion—-the èProfessional Reapriè asks the Customer to pay for a brand New Rear Outer Drum that comes complete with the Outer & Inner Bearings and Inner Bearing Seal already assembled in the New Rear Outer Drum. The Inner Stainless Steel Drum, being warranteed for 25 years is èfreeè. However, You, as a Customer will have to fork out over $200 for the Outer Tub ^Drumç; not to mention the Professional fees for delivery and installation. Donèt believe you cannot replace the failed bearings yourself. I just received a new set of bearings to fit the Outer Tub. I do have vibration issues with the Inner Tub spinning. I exhausted the weight distribution issues, the feet blancing issues, and I know the Culprit, as I have previously mentioned. With the DIY videos, I can take my machine apart in my mind, and know to remove the sensitive Motor Control Board out of the washer, so as not to destroy the delicate computer board. Before I delve into my next DIY project—to remove the èoldè bearings if they are indeed the problem. I will order a new Tub Seal, so that it is on hand. I will not give up, and I hope this helps others with Front Loaders!
Heidi,
You may have a clogged or faulty drain pump. Also, you could have an issue with the timer not working properly at the right time. Check drain pump for issues.
-RR
Hi. I have Amana top loader. Never gave me a problem until last week. Washer ended, I lifted the lid still water in washer. Its not draining on the last spin. I have turned the knob back around to spin again so it will drain the water. Any idea whats wrong??
Lou,
Your other question was about the lid switch so we see you have most likely found the issue. Let us know if it ends up being a bad lid switch.
-RR
Lou,
What color are the wires? Also, are the wires connected into a wiring harness?
-RR
How do I test the lid switch, my model has 4 wires
We have a top load HE sears washer that won’t spin. It stops at the spin cycle and the lid light light blinks. We had to unplug and replug the washer in to release the lid lock. Any ideas on the cause? Please email me back ASAP you can as the dirty laundry is piling up. Thanks so much
THIS IS ALL I needed in the middle of the night as I sit here doing my TAXES (yes, I procrastinate), with church in the morning and ALL my clothes (that fit) sitting in a tub of water! So I search the web, watch too many (and too long) YouTube videos on how to take my washer all apart, check this thing, poke that thing, get one of these and do this… I’m in the freakin’ Twilight Zone. But just when all was lost, here is one last site – and it says to unplug the machine, plug it back in, and open/shut the door 6 times. What?! This must be a joke. But it’s too easy NOT to try. One, two, three, four, five, six… Spin cycle continues, water draining… I’m still in shock. I guess there really are white knights left in the world – thank you! So I guess now I don’t have to wear that Santa suit to church in the morning…
Thanks. It’s been since Monday so I think I’ll try to open it up and check out the belt and coupling. Nothing looks wrong at a glance but hopefully we can figure out the problem instead of forking out money for a new washer. Thanks for the help! :)
Nitasha,
If you overloaded the washer, then the motor may have overheated. That may be where the humming sound was coming from. Lid switch does not seem like the issue because if so the power would not go to the motor if lid switch was bad. If motor was humming, then you know power was getting to it. So give the washer time to cool down. If after giving it time to cool down the problem persists, you may need to open up washer and see if either belt or coupler is shot.
-RR
I have an Amana top load washer that’s almost 7 years old. I’ve never had problems with it. I was washing a load of my daughter’s peed bedding and my toddlers’ clothes and it went off balance. I went down to rearrange the load and by the time I got to the washer it was moving on to the spin cycle…except it never did spin. It hummed for a minute then stopped. Then hummed again then stopped. It did this repeatedly until I unplugged it.
We tried to do a small load from the start and it filled with water but wouldn’t do anything further. I sent my husband to get a lid switch even though that doesn’t seem to be the problem and the appliance store he was going to buy it at told him that it didn’t seem like we should need to replace that. I tried the motor reset and it didn’t work. What else should I try?
Thanks so much for the website! Just fixed the washing machine by doing a computer reset which we had no idea about! Cheers again.
Claudia,
Is it an actual ticking sound or possibly a water dripping sound? If ticking, could it be the washer timer is still mechanically moving forward even while power is off?
-RR
What could it be if the noise is coming behind the washing machine – the machine is “not” on. We checked for water leaks, but there are none. We shut off the hot and cold water, but there is still a slight ticking noise. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
KC,
Yes give it a try if that is an option. If that works than great problem solved. If not then get a new spring and maybe a new belt if the one that is in use is frayed in the slightest.
-RR
Jaclyn,
What type of washer do you have and what is model number? ND error code means no drain but you say you have a new drain pump? Is the washer new and if not how many years old?
Have you checked drain hose to be sure it is not clogged or kinked? If washer is giving you multiple different error codes for apparently no real reason, it may mean your control board is bad and needs replaced.
-RR
My front load washer keeps saying Sr. and sometimes nd or SUDs and all the time when the washer is off it rings and says Sr and it’s having trouble draining and drain pump is new !!
Eureka! My ‘new’ part arrived Today. It’s the Motor Control Board [Speed Control Assembly or Spin Control Board or Speed Control Board] for my Kenmore Front Load Washer [2003 model], made by Frigidaire. I tracked down the actual maker of my Sears Kenmore and used the Frigidaire Model #970-C48112-10, to locate parts on the internet. From your previous instructions, after I removed the ‘old’ board and installed the ‘new’ one and plugged the Washer back into the wall socket, I ‘Reset’ the Washer by opening and closing the door 6 times in 12 seconds. And note also that previous ‘resets’ did not correct the non-spin on the final maximum spin. As I previously commented, I had replaced the Door Lock Assembly in the hopes it would solve the ‘maximum final spin’ issue, but it did not. The problem was the Motor Control Board. All I needed was a Philips Screw Driver to undo the 16 screws on the back panel and the two screws holding down the ‘old’ Motor Control Board. Feeling pretty good about saving around $100, by not having to call in a Professional! Just had to share my joy with you fine folks on this site!
Instead of replacing the spring… Would moving the current idler arm spring from the farthest hole from the front of the machine where it currently is on the metal base, to one of the two nearer holes make the spring push harder on the belt?
KC,
Make sure you replace the idler spring with same exact OEM. If your transmission is in question, do you hear any type of grinding or chaffing noise while the washer does run normally?
-RR
RR- In wash mode A-Okay. I went and pushed in the belt and it went all the way to the metal housing that covers the spring of the Idler Pulley Arm assembly, and without that much effort. That seemed too slack to me. I then took a pair of channel locks and grabbed a hold of the Idler Pulley Arm via the bolt that sticks out above it’s plastic wheel. That allowed me to pull it towards the front of the machine, increasing belt tension. I waited for the wash drain, then the motor kicks in for start of spin. WITHOUT pulling the Idler Pulley arm the belt did NOT start the spin and began to heat on the motor wheel. Pulling the Idler Pulley Arm and increasing tension the belt did “catch” and the spin started.
All that leads me to it is a weak Idler Pulley spring that will need to be replaced. Increase belt tension to allow it to catch. That spring which appears to have some rust probably got loose during the other replace/repair and I’ll see if this fixes it. The lower transmission bearing could have also gotten stickier with water and rust from the previous leak and may be just too much for the belt to overcome in spin direction, if that’s the case then it’s done as a trans is not worth the cost.
I’m not a top loader washer repair expert, by any means. I’m in the process of diy repair on my Frigidaire front loader……waiting for arrival of spin control board. But thru my diy travels and viewing videos…..one was for diy repair on a top loader……if I may put this one out there for you…..maybe it could be the ‘clutch’, and from what I viewed, diy clutch repair did not seem super complicated. And any repair done diy is cheaper than always having to call a professional. Good luck! ‘H’
KC,
Have you removed the service panel and SAFELY looked inside with a flashlight to observe exactly what is happening when the washer is in wash mode?
-RR
Exact OEM in Blue Electrolux/Frigidaire plastic bag, matching #. The play is not that much, like a car’s belt. The Idler pulley is very firm to push in and snaps back in place when I replaced the belt.
KC,
How much play is in the belt with tension idler? Is the belt you have replaced the exact one recommended for your Frigidaire washer? Is it OEM?
-RR
2004 Frigidaire 5700 Top loader. Leaking, put in new tub seal and new trunion (old corroded). No leaks, got 20 washes then belt burned. Replaced old worn belt. Everything works fine, agitates perfect.. EXCEPT belt wont catch on start of spin cycles. Drain pump checked, ok. Both trans and motor wheels clean, lubed, and spin fine. Tension idler pulley SEEMS fine but there is none of that slippage during start up of spin cycle I’ve read about. **Spin cycle will start if spin tub or trans housing is given slight small push/turn, then belt catches and PERFECT spin cycle** No squealing noise on spin. I would think if not idler then spin bearing or lower trans bearing sticking but both spin easy by hand and no noise. IM STUMPED!
RR,
I don’t think I have been overloading them, I haven’t ever had these issues before and I’ve been doing laundry for quite some time. I had one of the washers fixed, only to have it happen again. But, this may be an issue of my teenager using the washer inappropriately. I will call the repairman and let you know how it goes!
Thanks,
Barb
Thank you for this website. Just fixed my washer. It needed to be reset.
Tim,
The next part you should test is the lid switch. A defective lid switch will cause your washer to not spin. Washing machine lid switches be found on Amazon for a low price and usually you can get next day or same day delivery.
-RR
Barb,
Electricity to the washer will not cause a problem of this sort. This is a mechanical issue where you are having parts wear out causing the washers to not spin. This probably means the washers are wearing out the motor coupler prematurely. The cause for this could be a defect in material of the part in question but if it has happened to 3 top loaders in 3 years then something else is going on here. Are you overloading the washers? Huge blankets, multiple towels at once? Have you ever taken any of the washers apart to look and see what the problem may be? What have you done with the 2 previous washers that did not spin?
-RR
I have had three different top loading washers since I moved into my new home three years ago. Each one has died the same death. The washers start out ok but then start to struggle to spin properly, especially if I wash more than one load a day. Eventually the washers will not spin at all. All three have done this and all three start to sound like a plane taking off when they begin to spin and then stop suddenly during the spin cycle. These are three different makes and models of washers. Any thoughts on this? I asked two of my handy friends about whether they thought the out dated electric in the home may have something to do with this, one said it was likely, one said absolutely not.
Hi,
I have a ge top load washer will fill , drain but will not spin. I have replaced the water level switch and still no spin any help ?
model# WSHE5240D1WW
Fanessa,
The 2 things that may be wrong would be… The lid switch is bad OR the drain pump/hose is clogged. Most likely it is the lid switch. The lid switch is a safety device that will not let the machine spin if it is pressed in. It is basically a simple switch that the lid presses to let the machine run safely. The lid switch bracket may also be bent or the push rod on the lid that pushes the switch could be bent or not centered. If the drain pump is clogged, the washer will not drain therefore the machine will not go into spin mode. You will need to check both of these parts. The lid switch is most likely so check that first and let us know what you find.
-RR
I have an 11yr. Old whirlpool top load washer.. fills with water, agitates, but when gets to spin cycle.. nothing
Happens ..timer not run ..not spin on any other cycles (perm.press, delicates).. water not drain either, just stops??? Any ideas???? I’m not able to DIY so would have to call repair man… which I’m sure would be costly..
Richard,
The drain pump and or hose may be clogged. Inspect both and remove foreign objects if needed.
-RR
My Sharp ES S107X fully automatic washing machine washes ok, except it does not drain and returns E3.
Please help.
Hi Kim. You may see my previous comments on this site. My Frigidaire front load washer [Kenmore] is 12 years old, and won’t go into a final maximum spin, either. I have tried the following procedures to date — Master reset, where you unplug the machine, leave it for a minute; plug the machine back in. Then open & close the door 6 times in 12 seconds. This didn’t work for me. The next thing I did was obtain a door switch assembly and installed it. Still no change. I am now waiting for my Spin Control Board to arrive and I will install it. If this works, I will post on this site for everyone’s information. I got so tired of paying a pro to attend the house and pay $$$ over the years that I download DIY videos from the internet which have given me the confidence to do it myself…..the control board tells the motor when to spin and is an easy removal/install procedure.
Hello-
I bought a LG WM3570 front load washing machine two weeks ago. I’ve been using it on medium spin setting and had no problem. Today I set it on HIGH spin and problem occurred. It kept spinning and spinning but it doesn’t seem to speed up to finish. It was stuck on the remaining time 9 min. I had to stop the machine. There was no error code. My husband installed it and our laundry room is carpeted. Any ideas?
Thank you so much.
Danny,
If your top load washer is agitating but NOT spinning or draining, the most likely part that has failed is the lid switch. Test it with a meter to see if it is working properly. Another issue could be your drain pump or hose is clogged therefore not letting the washer spin since it cannot drain. So check the lid switch and drain pump/hose for problems. NOTE: It may be possible that the lid switch is ok, it may have just bent on the bracket and it is not aligned correctly to make contact with the washer lid.
-RR
i have a top loader GE top loader gtwn3000mws and it will not spin. The aggitator will work but when it comes to the drain and spin cycle it will not spin. I had read up and some of my findings are that it could be the lid sensor. some machines will fill and aggitate but wont spin if that sensor is bad… please help thanks
Danny
Lyndsey,
Is it draining properly every wash cycle? What is the error code showing?
Your drain pump may be clogged internally. It may also be the drain hose is slightly bend or clogged. Have you examined the drain hose? The filter is one thing and you have already cleaned that out but the pump probably has a few things jamming it once in awhile therefore your washer works sometimes and other times it does not. Wow, that was a long sentence… Anyway, to get to the pump, we would advise to watch a YouTube video or 2 to see how it is done. If a front load washer does not spin, it usually means the drain pump is at fault.
-RR
Hi there, I have a Whirlpool front loader AW0D 5556, and It keeps flashing up clean pump. I’ve cleaned the filter out and pump seems clear. It’s now started to stop mid cycles, but I can get it to finish its cycle after a few attempts! and it seems to be spinning and emptying fine. Any suggestions? Many thanks.
Chris,
Sounds like drain pump has issues… You should remove the drain pump. Inspect for foreign objects. Be sure ALL drain aspects of washer are clean and clear. Once sure, put machine back together and hook to water. Run normal empty load. If you are still having issues then you will know it is not the drain pump. Also, your particular washer will not operate properly without water being hooked up. So we recommend as stated above before replacing anything.
-RR
Mike,
You may have a bad or severely worn out motor coupler/coupling. If the coupler is worn, the washer will usually agitate but not always spin. Hence you having to assist the tub to spin every time. Do some troubleshooting and see what you can find.
-RR
I have a Kenmore 80 Series top loader that will agitate but not spin. If I open the lid and rotate the tub manually then close the lid and initiate the spin cycle again it will usually work, although this may take anywhere from two to 20 times to work.
Any ideas on what the problem might be?
Thank you,
Yes, I received it with the tumbler having standing water in it. I was told it wasn’t draining and I have tried to get it to spin with out any success, hence it doesnt seem to be spinning or draining. I have drained and dryed out the washer. Unless its necesssary I do not see the sense of filling it with water again.
John,
Great! Please keep us updated on how the repair goes and if you have any issues with using refurbished appliance parts.
-RR
You Guys are great, and thank you for understanding! I’m a Senior and I just got so ‘tee’d off’ to say it lightly with pouring out every spare penny to keep my washer alive, that I decided to get brave and educate myself with the wonderful diy videos, and I now have confidence to take it forward. I am doing the diy repairs Only for myself. And, by the way, I have taken photos of my particular machine and close-ups of the parts involved up till now. But I will re-emphasize that I will take a chance on only purchasing ‘used’ or ‘refurbished’, because I have seen some very greedy prices out there….I don’t know how some folks live with themselves! Anyway, if you are interested, I can provide photos of my situation in order to help others. My model that I purchased from Sears in Canada was their ‘Kenmore’…..I had to be a Detective Colombo and was determined to identify who the heck manufactured this Kenmore for Sears. I was successful in tracking the model down to Frigidaire Model #970-C48112-10, and also was able to track down compatible parts made by Westinghouse, etc., and along with the part numbers. I gained confidence on this when I successfully acquired the Door Lock & Switch Assembly [notorious for the wax switch]……thru your help and thru my dogged determination to persist, I feel confident going forward to my next step for the ‘spin board’. And yes, I have done the resets, ie: unplug – close door – wait a minute or so – plug in – open & close door 6 times in 12 seconds! To no avail! You have been very kind to this Canadian, and when I get my next part and install it, I hope it words, and I will let you know! I do very much appreciate your support! I don’t know how people can keep a clean conscience when they charge Seniors, time and time again, for house calls bordering $100. That can buy me a lot of Sardines! ‘H’
John,
Completely understandable. We are not trying to grab your next part. We are curious if you are using brand new replacement parts or used but workable. In our experience, if doing repairs for yourself, this is a completely logical way to DIY. However, if you are repairing an appliance as a service call or professionally, used parts are not usually able to be warrantied for an acceptable amount of time. The risk is having the used replacement part failing early and being forced to complete the whole procedure over again.
-RR
My next replacement part will be a refurbished or used workable part. I check for parts on the internet, and no longer will purchase brand new parts, unless they are a last resort and unless they are not over-priced. I’m looking at one part right now, but don’t wish to reveal where it is, because I think it is the only one on that listing, and I wouldn’t want to jeopardize my attempt to acquire it. I know you’ll understand. But if I am lucky enough to get the part from this particular source, I will then reveal my m.o.
John,
Are you using brand new parts to repair or finding them used? Where are you getting replacement appliance parts from?
-RR
I have a 2003 Frigidaire front load washer and am in the process of diy, due to it not going into a final maximum spin cycle. I have since replaced the Door Lock & Switch Assembly, but the problem still exists. My next step is to access a Motor Control Board [spin control board], which is located at the rear of the washer, and is easily removed by unscrewing the 2 Phillips screws and unplugging the two wire connectors. I have no problem with the pump–it works fine, and everything up to the fast spin works o.k. I have downloaded several diy repair videos, and because I just got so tired of dishing out the $$$ for a professional to attend, I decided to take over, and am enjoying the journey. I have placed two refrigerator plastic roller assemblies under the washing, so that I can easily move it from the wall. I’m getting pretty good at accessing the washer and its parts and have made myself familiar with how to replace them. I feel, every time I access the washer I earn $100 an hour! Good feeling. I hope my next step works with the installation of the control board, and I hope to let you know on this site.
Chris,
Just so we are on the same page, you have NEVER connected it to water as of yet?
-RR
Purchased a Samsung model WF338AAB “VRT Steam” front loading washer with a fair amount of water in the tumbler, I drained the water out and then tried spin only cycles, but didnt spin at all, no motor sounds etc. No error codes at all. Tried resetting it, didnt make any difference. I have not connected it to the water yet. The controls all light up. So it would seem the washer isn’t spinning or draining. I’m trying to fix it myselt. I have some of it apart and was going to remove the front door assy, then will have access to the door switch and drain pump. I don’t want to move it in the laundry and connect it to the water until I can get it to spin as there is no room to take it apart or work on it and since it doesn’t appear to be draining much if any I will have to dry it out again to take it apart.
The door switch I was hoping to check continuity on and the drain pump once I get it out will be able to see if its clogged or not. I’m trying to determine if its most likely the door switch, drain pump, motor, some other board or switch, etc.
My specific questions are:
If the drain pump stopped working, wouldn’t there be a nd error?
If the drain pump stopped working, but the water was drained out by manually drying it out;
Wouldn’t the washer still spin at least?
Would the door switch make it not spin and not drain also?
What is the most likely culprit?
I have a multimeter, I take out the door switch, what is the best method to check it for continuity?
Any suggestions welcome,
Thank you
John,
The door assembly is much cheaper than the control board. Usually when the problem you have exists, the best thing to do (money wise) is to replace the door assembly first. If that does not fix the issue (such as in your case) the next step would be to replace the control board. If you can find a used but confirmed working control board, by all means get that instead of a brand new board. Let us know if you install another control board and the outcome.
-RR
John,
Be sure the drain pump and/or drain tube is not plugged up. Most washers will not spin or rinse properly if the drain pump is clogged.
-RR
Hello, I have a top load whirlpool, model LSQ8543JQ1. It stops halfway before it gets to rinse full of water without draining. I have checked and replaced lid switch, courier and motor but still the same issue. Any advice on what’s next. Or cut my losses and get a new washer.
Thx for the tip, on my road to diy repair to correct the non-high speed spin not happening on my front load washer. It is a Kenmore Model 3970-C44072-00. I’ve tracked similar parts to the Frigidaire Model #970-C48112-10. I recently acquired a ‘new’ Washer Door Lock & Switch Assembly for Frigidaire part #131763202. I’m getting pretty good at instal/uninstall parts with my washer. I went in thru the front of my front load washer, took the spring loaded retainer ring off the rubber seal, pulled the seal back at the 3 o’clock position [of course, unplugged the machine, first], undid the 2 screws that hold the part, unplugged the 3 connections–and installed the new part [parts were identical, with the exception of the colour red on the wax switch [the old one was white]. The problem still exists over 90 percent of the time. Sometimes, when I do a Quick Wash or a Rinse & Spin, in order to get the soaking wet clothes dry…..I have to remove most of the load, and I do not overload the machine. But even with that, I am not always guaranteed a fast spin to make the clothes drier. NEW STRATEGY: I am now looking at replacement for the Motor Control Board [or spin control board]. I removed the one in my machine—-it has two connections and is held in with two screws—situated to the left rear bottom of the machine. I checked visuals on the internet and I believe the part I’m looking for is a Westinghouse #134149220 [also Frigidaire OEM part]. There seems to be a ton of many other numbers involved, ie: serial no’s, etc. But this part, looking at it on the internet, seems to be identical to the part in my machine. I might even try a used, working replacement, or even a refurbished one. I have lost my Fear of working on my washer myself. What are your thoughts on this approach? By the way, the drive belt on my washer tub/motor connection appears to be in good condition. And for easy access, I have placed two roller supports underneath my washer [ones similar to rollers placed under refrigerators]….sure makes access easy! Hope to hear from you, soon!
Thank you for sharing more information on fixing the dryer. Mine has not been functioning properly for the past couple weeks and it is very frustrating. My clothes are in the dryer for over an hour and they are still not dry. It is like it is blowing out cold air and nothing gets hot. My washing machine is not working very well either. Like you said, it might be an electrical spike, a load imbalance or a fault in the computer module. I will have a professional help me out to fix these problems. Thanks, have a nice day!
Fudge,
Washers should have a 2 yr warranty. Have you checked to see if it is under warranty still?
If the washer spins AFTER it is completed washing. It is most likely a fault on the the control board. Can you explain with a bit more detail?
-RR
Hi,
I have a BEKO WCE 15065 S front loader washing machine that is less than 2 years old, the problem is that the machines starts spinning after washing even when i set the machine on NO Spin. What could be the problem because it happens all the time for the past 4 months.
Sandi,
Your drain pump is most likely clogged. Do you hear a buzzing or humming sound when the washer tries to drain? Check if foreign objects are jamming the pump. Also, remove the drain hose and be sure it is not clogged.
-RR
Thank you ! My washer is working again !!!
I have an old Roper. It won’t spin or drain, but washes fine. We called a repair man and when he mentioned “It’s probably your lid switch, have your husband do it”, I laughed and hung up on him. We found the proper lid switch for our model and ordered it online. Today we put it in and tried the washer. It seemed to have the same issue, so I checked here and found your tips, I have tried the reset and it doesn’t seem to be working. So just wondering what my next step is.
Thank so, so much, for your efficient response to my ‘final spin’ issue with my front load washer. And I am greatful for your ‘support’ on this …. When the item arrives, I will install it myself. I’m getting pretty good at that diy door switch thing….And I prefer to do the installation, going in through the doorway, by removing the retaining wire on the rubber door seal — pulling it out from the bottom where the spring is located. And, just as I was thinking about the issue of ‘programming for heavier loads’….which is way over my head….Your PS: comment give me confidence that I am on the right track on this one. I have just become so tired of pouring out $$$, year after year, to have a professional attend my home to do repairs. I can’t thank you enough, and I hope to keep you posted. Regards, from Canada.
John,
The door lock and switch assembly that you have on order, should fix your complete issue once installed. One of the items the control board checks is the spin enable switch in the door latch assembly. If that switch is open, the control board will not allow the drum to go into full or final spin mode. So if your old door lock switch assembly was faulty, the new one should correct your problem. Once you install the new assembly, let us know how it goes and if you need additional assistance please let us know. PS: There is no way to reprogram the machine to work better with heavier loads…. just wait for the assembly and you should be ok.
-RR
I own a 2003 model of a front loading washer ‘Kenmore’ but it is a Frigidaire, as ‘Kenmore’ a Sears brand, was out-sourced to other manufacturers like Whirlpool, Frigidaire, etc. Problem: The final spin no longer ‘kicks-in’. I have checked the water pump–it is spotless. After all of these years, and after over another $600.00 for repairs, I am determined to do DIY. The latest thing I have found is a wonderful YouTube Video with a fine person who shows how to ‘zero-in’ on a common 70 plus percent problem with ‘my issue’ of not final max. spin. It has to do with the ‘Door Lock & Switch Assembly’. I took this part ‘apart’ and closed a contact to make it ‘closer’ to a signal at the end spin cycle….forgive me for not being very technical. In the meantime, I have ordered off of eBay a replacement ‘new’ ‘Door Lock & Switch Assembly], Part #1317632… But/But, in the meantime, after my bending the brass bar to get closer to the ‘switch’ kick-in…….the final spin does not always work. Sometimes, it does work when I remove most of the laundry [soaking-wet load] from the washer—and then the final max. spin kicks in. My Question is—while I’m waiting for my ‘new’ switch/door lock assembly to arrive. Is there a prodocol to re-program my panel to ‘accept’ a heavier load of laundry [more than 2 items], in order to do the ‘final max. spin’. ‘H’
Jacob,
6 weeks? Is it not under warranty? And yes anything can break or malfunction whether old or new. Hopefully you have a warranty. If not explain more about your broken washer and we will be happy to assist further.
-RR
RR,
This washing machine has just been used for only 6 weeks. Can still be a mechanical issue?
Jacob
Jacob,
If it will NOT SPIN and makes noise, obviously there is a mechanical issue. You will have to unplug the machine from electrical power, open the service panel, and have a look inside. Something has more than likely broken or has become worn causing the machine to not spin and be noisy.
-RR
My LG WFT6571 T/LOAD-6.5KG TURBO DRUM wont spin and makes noise. What can I do? Thank you!
Miriam,
It would depend on exactly what is causing the washer to stop spinning. You may have a wiring harness loose or a bad (shorted) wire that connects to the control board. You could open the panel (unplug the machine first) and check visually if everything looks securely connected or possibly a burned shorted wire. If you do not see any visual signs of a problem, then yes it may be the control board. Inspect the wiring and control board and let us know what you find if anything.
-RR
Hi. I have a Kenmore model for 17440 52401 front loading high efficiency washer.it suddenly stopped doing any of the spin cycles including the final spin. It does wash the clothes with the drums spinning during the wash cycle but nothing happens after water drains. I followed your advice for a reset but that did not work. Sears repair was going to come out but they basically told me over the phone it is probably a control panel short and will cost $400. I am about to buy a new washer but am just wondering if replacing the control panel is something realistic for someone who is not very handy person.the washer is almost 10 years old. It had been working perfectly until this happened. Is it even worth it to fix?
Clayton,
Your spin cycle is probably spinning at the appropriate time length, but your drain pump or pump hose is probably slightly obstructed. Which means that all the water is NOT FULLY being pumped out. When this is the case one must remove power, open panel, and inspect pump, impeller, and drain hose for any obstructions.
-RR
when spin cycle is done on my topload washer,the clothes seem to be sopping wet . is it not spinning long enough?
Meta,
Cheapest and easiest way to start troubleshooting would be to test the lid switch with a meter to be sure it is working properly. If it is not then you may have a control board or dial assembly issue.
-RR
Caitlin,
Please tell us the model number and brand of your washer?
You could try unplugging the washer for 10 minutes and see if that resets it.
-RR
Kim,
It could be the door latch malfunctioning. You could test with a meter if you are able.
You could also… pull the pump, clear any debris, clear the drain hose, clear the boot hose, reattach everything and do a test run.
-RR
KH,
Motor coupler OR Agitator Dogs are worn out. Start troubleshooting there.
-RR
My whirlpool top loading machine sounds as though it is slipping occasionally as it agitates and is hit and miss on spinning out, it seems as though the spinning out problem becomes worse the more loads I run back to back. Where should I start to troubleshoot?
I have a Kenmore front end 970-c41032-00 washer machine that will not engage in final spin but water is being released from the washer machine properly. IT just won’t engage in the super fast speed at the end
How do you fix a washing machine when lights are flashing on it?
Can you help me please?
I have a Roper RTW4740YQO that is about 2 1/2 years old. I tried the master reset as suggested above with no success. The lid lock light is coming on between various cycles and the washing machine does not go into the next cycle. The red light is generally flashing, and sometimes the lid is actually locked, but other times it is not. Sometimes the green light indicating the cycle is also blinking. When I press “pause/unlock lid” button, it now takes several minutes to respond. I have to press this button several times and wait, to get the machine to move into the next cycle. When it does not, I have to reset the whole thing. I was thinking lid switch or shift actuator? Thank you! This site is great.
Brad,
This sounds as if the timer has a few bad spots on it. We would recommend to remove and replace the timer assembly.
-RR
Hello, I have a Kenmore 27″ stack able washer dryer model #970-C98802-10. It fills with water but then does not engage the agitator. You can hear the timer inside the control panel quietly ticking away but nothing happens. Now the funny part, the agitator engages and washes no problem when you set it to “delicate”. But nothing happens when you go to the “Regular” or “Permanent Press” cycles.
I have tried a re-set as you suggested. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
RR, It will complete diagnostic cycle perfectly without clothes. With clothes as I mentioned it will error out on the drain/spin test portion.
Please help as I am desperate! This makes no sense to run perfectly without clothes only to error out E58 with clothes.
Thanks In Advance,
Chit
Huey,
Check the other end of the pressure switch hose. Depending on how hard you blew air through it, it should not leak out the other end. This switch or hose may not be your issue. Have you tested the lid switch both electrically and mechanically? We will need to have your Hotpoint washer model number to assist you to troubleshoot your issue.
-RR
Caleb,
Does the washer agitate? If your washer is a top loading and it will not spin, usually this indicates a faulty lid switch. However if your washer is making a strange noise, it could be something binding up and not letting the washer spin. Bad belt, coupler, transmission, clutch, etc. Can you supply us with more details?
-RR
I have an older washer but the bottom of the washer won’t drain. I try putting it on a spin cycle but it won’t turn, it just makes a noise
I have a Hotpoint washing machine. It is not spinning on spin cycle. I tried to reset the system and also blew air through the pressure switch and the clear hose. Still not working. When I blow air through the clear hose, I hear the air releasing somewhere inside. Is that ok or should it it not make air release? The lid switch seems to be fine and the water level seems to work properly. I don’t know what else to try.
Jordan,
This sounds like more of a mechanical issue than electrical. If the lights in the room dim and the machine is humming, most likely the motor is trying to run but something is not allowing it to. Possibly the transmission is bad or the motor itself. The clue here being that the lights in the room dim.
We would recommend taking the service panel off and running the machine while shining a flashlight inside to see. You may have a better understanding of what is causing this issue.
-RR
I have a Kenmore Elite top loader. The other day it stopped agitating and spinning. It fills normally, but when it goes into either of these modes, there is a low hum from the machine and the lights in the room dim. This sounds like some sort of electrical problem to me but I haven’t found anything quite like it online. Please help. Thank you.
Chit,
Have you tried running the diagnostic or test mode? Just curious if the machine completes a full diagnostic test.
-RR
RR, It usually does not error out until quite sometime has passed. But when clothes are in the machine it does not act the way it does when empty. (tumbling back and forth, spinning. It acts as if it can sense it has clothes in it and does not go into the full spins) WE tested the ohms as it recommended and all was fine, so I ordered a brand new control board- but it did the same thing. I thought it had to have a weight sensor but I could not find one in the parts list so I ordered a new motor. Same problem- E58. No clothes will work fine goes into a full 1400 rpm spin like a champ. All cycles that I have tried without clothes no errors, no burning smell no funny noises. Now that I have so much invest with new parts in this machine I would really like to get it to work? Anything else I can check? Thanks so much for getting back to me!
Chit,
If you have clothing in the washer, at what point does the e58 error code appear? E58 could mean a number of issues, but mostly that the motor is overheating or a higher than usual motor current caused by different issues. Since you replaced the motor and motor control board, did anything change from the previous issue or was it exactly the same? When you run the washer empty, does it go through all cycles perfectly? No errors? No burning smell? No different types of sound coming from washer?
-RR
Hello- I have a #EWFLS70JRR Frontload Electrolux. The E58 error code comes up when I have clothes in it but will wash fine without clothes. I have follow the test and even replaced the motor and the motor and motor control board and I still get the same e58 error code.
I have no idea what else to do as I could not find a weight sensor-
Please help?
Thanks-
Tim
I appreciate all the help provided, I did forget to say that during the spin the washer shakes sometimes a little sometimes more with the same result. I will check the board wires to see if I find any loose cables; in the mean time my wife loss her patience and bought a Maytag Bravos XL MVWB725BW which she was told is a really good machine. Let hope :)
Jordan,
Take the drain hose out of the wall behind the washer and put the end of it in a large bucket that can hold all the water that is trapped in the washer. Then access the pump and remove any debris that is causing your NO DRAIN issue.
-RR
Felipe,
The most likely component that is causing your issue is the main control board. Seems that everything is working mechanically by what you have said. If the control board is adding extra time to the wash cycle and is stopping for no reason, then the control board is most likely at fault. You can try to see if possibly there are loose wires or a loose wiring harness going to or from the control board. If the wires are loose then the problem you stated can occur.
-RR
Chris,
Unplug the machine for 10 minutes and see if that resets it. A component may have overheated from overloading the machine and just needs time to cool down.
-RR
Sarah,
Try unplugging the machine for 10 minutes. If the F01 or F1 error code keeps appearing, then this indicates a fault in the Motor or the Control Board. But there is a procedure that Hotpoint says can fix it…
The Hotpoint service manual says:
Unplug the washing machine. Take the rear panel off. The main board is bottom left when viewed from the rear. Take the board out. Take the plugs off and plug them on again to ensure they are clean, dry and tight fitting. Check the circuit board for any obvious damage. Check the motor plug and wiring.
If the F1 error code keeps appearing after the service check method above, then either the motor or board needs replaced for sure. You can either check the components yourself or call a repair person to be safe.
-RR
Felipe,
We honestly cannot say which washer is better. Consumer Reports is a good website to check for which washing machine is best and recommended.
-RR
Hi;
I do not want to put you on the spot but under 1K which washer would you buy and expect the longer time without any problems? I have a Maytag that lasted 8 years and a Sansung that only lasted 2.
Thanks
Hotpoint front loader washer stopped spinning and still water in the tub and showing F1 error.
I have a front loading Beko WM1412 which suddenly stopped spinning and produced a burning smell. I immediately switched it off and removed all the clothes. I then attempted to run it on a short cycle whilst empty but now all I get is clicking sound from the rear of the machine. It does however fill up with water. The belt has been checked and is in very good shape. I must admit I had overloaded the machine at the time of the fault, which is not something I’d done before, so, my thinking is that the overloading has fried the electrics…..I don’t know. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I have a Samsung WA456DRHDWR/AA Washer. It just started to act up about 4 months ago, the washer is only 2 years old. During the final spin stage (doesn’t matter which wash type was selected). The final spin will start for a minute or two (building up speed) and then the machine stops, adds about 10 minutes to the wash and starts adding water again over and over again. I’m not sure to to fix this. This behavior is consistent and it never completes the final spin.
I’ve run the diagnostic test, draining works fine, spin test goes over 1000rpm, water temperatures are ok, the lid sensor correctly detects the open/closed state. Try disconnecting from power and plug back it would work one time an go back to the same problem. I did lower the speed of the spin to medium during the final spin and it worked for a couple of days on and off. Would you have any suggestions that I can try? Anything would be appreciated.
PS I also searched the web and if I am not mistaken there have been problems with this machine.
I have a ge top load washer that will not drain completely. The clothes are still a little wet. How can I drain all the water to check the pump?
Sharat,
You may have a bad door switch. If the door switch is failing the dryer may work sporadically. Check where the door shuts and makes contact with the switch and check for any obvious signs of damage. You can take the switch out and check with a multimeter. Another issue could be the belt is frayed and slips on occasion. You would have to open the machine up to check visually. Is the heater heating despite the non turning drum?
-RR
I have semi automatic LG 7.0 (P8031R3F) model washing machine. The washer works fine – but the dryer is not spinning. Earlier it did stop but after several lid closings – it started working. I suspect due to 1. Over Load, 2. Any motor belt slip. 3. Faulty dryer (Needs new one). Any suggestions plz. Thank you.
Jane,
IF MOTOR RUNS, THEN STOPS: If it seems the motor runs but then stops when it is supposed to be is wash or spin mode, then it could be a number of things. However if you hear the motor run, then we can almost be sure the motor works. It seems that something is telling the motor to turn off. Possibly the control board is faulty, has loose wires, or a timer is not working properly.
IF MOTOR RUNS THROUGH COMPLETE CYCLE: If the motor is making noise the whole time it should be running a cycle but the drum is not turning then a belt or motor coupler is most likely bad.
-RR