Dryer not heating or drying your clothing? If your dryer is all of a sudden not drying your clothes, then we have a few simple DIY fix tips you can try yourself. If the dryer is no longer drying your clothes then the first thing to do is to check and clean the dryer lint filter trap.
How To Fix A Clothes Dryer That Is Not Drying
Check Dryer Lint Filter
We were forced to add that as our first step as there really are some people who do not realize there is a LINT FILTER that must be cleaned before or after each use. Once that is cleaned out, check if the dryer is still NOT drying your clothes.
Check Vent Hose On Back Of Dryer
If that was NOT the cause of the problem, then you will need to inspect the vent hose on the back of the dryer. Commonly this HOT AIR VENT HOSE will become clogged, caked or full of lint that is constantly being removed from your clothing when drying. When this happens your dryer is unable to expel the hot air from within, therefore making it impossible for your dryer to actually dry your clothing in a timely manner or at all.
Common Causes For Dryer To Stop Heating
- The dryer lint screen (lint trap) has not been cleaned (poor or restricted airflow).
- A clogged or kinked (bent) dryer air vent hose (inadequate or no airflow).
- Drum has stopped turning, broken drum drive belt.
- Overheated or bad motor (possible thermal overload).
- Thermal fuse or thermostat (could be caused from dryer air vent hose lint buildup)
- Heating element burnt out.
- Loose electrical plug or power socket.
- Other mechanical issue, fault or malfunction.
Click here for a faster way to troubleshoot your dryer not heating
Clothing Takes Forever To Dry
If your clothes dryer is taking forever to dry your clothes or it is not drying your clothing at all (and you already thoroughly cleaned the lint filter screen), then the first step is to CLEAN OUT THE INSIDE OF THE DRYER VENT HOSE.
First, unplug your dryer from the electrical socket on the wall. Slide the dryer forward very carefully so you can get behind it. Locate the (usually silver colored) air vent hose, and remove it from the wall and the dryer (2 connection points).
Do this by squeezing the clip at both ends and pulling the hose outward. Using a long dryer vent brush or similar, clean out the inside of the air vent hose by removing all of the built up lint and dust looking material.
Clean the area on the back of the dryer and the hole in the wall where the air is vented out. Most of the time the lint will be built up in both of these areas.
Once all of the lint is cleaned out, reattach the vent hose and slide the dryer back in place. Make sure you DO NOT KINK the vent hose when repositioning the dryer as this will cause the dryer to NOT expel the hot air properly.
If you kink the hose the dryer will not function properly and your clothes will take forever to dry. Next, plug the dryer back into the power outlet and run a test. If your dryer is now heating and properly drying your clothes then you fixed the problem. If not, read on…
If you know what Dryer Replacement Parts you need, here is where to get them at a GREAT PRICE and most have FREE shipping.
Here is how much lint that can become stuck in your dryer vent hose.
This much lint in the hose or in the wall, will prevent your dryer from properly drying your clothes.
DO NOT LET THIS HAPPEN! Dryer air vent hose clogged with lint.
Clean your dryer AIR VENTING HOSE on a yearly basis!
It is the reason your dryer takes forever to dry AND can be a fire safety hazard!
Dryer Has Overheated
At times your dryer can overheat and this can cause the motor that turns the drum to stop working temporarily. There is a safety mechanism built into the motor that makes it stop working if it gets too hot. This is called a thermally protected motor.
Your dryer may seem to be running but the motor will not be turning the drum. If the drum is not turning then the clothes are not moving. Therefore they can not get DRY. So if your dryer motor is NOT turning on but the rest of the dryer works, such as the lights and other mechanical parts, then your motor is probably overheated.
For this, you need to just give the motor some time to cool down. If you suspect that this is your problem then give the dryer about an hour to cool down and run a test after that. If your motor has overheated then you may be overloading your dryer with too many clothes. Try running the dryer with less clothes in it the next time you dry a load and this should remedy the issue.
The solutions above are the most common causes for this specific malfunction. If the explanations above have not been your specific problem, then there can be a number of things wrong. If you feel comfortable you can remove the front panel of your dryer (while unplugged) and look to see if there are any obvious causes of the problem.
A possible loose wire, loose part, burnt area, pieces of the dryer that have come off, fried or burned mechanical switches, etc. If the problem is not visual and you do not know what the issue can be, we recommend going here and posting an appliance repair question to online appliance repair technicians. If all else fails then simply leave a comment or question below and we PROMISE to answer your question in a timely manner.
Other components that could be at fault would be the Thermal fuse, Thermal cutoff, Heating element, Operating thermostat, and High limit thermostat. You can check all of these for continuity with a multimeter. If any are determined bad, remove and replace.
How Does It Work? Basic Clothes Dryer Function
Dryer Parts Schematic Parts Location Diagram Chart
If you still need help, assistance, or answers to fix your Dryer Not Heating problem, ask your
questions over at our Appliance Repair Help page for free answers to fix your broken appliance!
Hi I have a Maytag Electric dryer that is throwing heat but is not drying cloths…The moisture is remaining in the dryer…I am even finding water drippings around my door upon opening it. I cleaned the outside vent which was pretty stacked with lint and have always cleaned the lint screen in the front of the dryer before or after use? I reached into the vent hose as far as I could and seemed to be clear…from all that I’ve read here it seemed to me that it was most likely lint in the vent hose…but it appears not?
Kenmore Elite gas dryer #110.7708 2600 dries on med. low temp not on high there are 8 to 9 possible components it could be . Any idea what it could be?
I have done all the above suggestions: my Maytag dryer is still not drying my laundry. Everything is working, but it’s not heating. Anything else I can do? Thank you.
I have a Kenmore electric dryer, it didn’t dry clothes I’ve checked all components and continuity is good on all. Vents are clean. Someone told me it could be the timer component could that keep the dryer from heating up?
Samsung Dryer is tumbling but no heat. I’ll try the steps you have listed tomorrow morning. Hopefully it’s a clogged in the vent somewhere. It’s not on the inside. My dryer is 2/3 years old & I love it. Fingers crossed it can be fixed.
Just bought a brand new dryer after living in the house for 6 months. The dryer vent hose was exposed for the entire time we didn’t have a dryer and now it takes maybe 2 hours to dry clothes. The dryer is brand new so could it be lint clogging the vent line from the people that lived here before? And our vent line goes through the kitchen wall behind the stove and microwave, up and out the top of the cabinet, how would I be able to clean all of that? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I just don’t know what to do.
My electric dryer won’t start tumbling after changing out worn noisy bearings. I have to turn the drum by hand slightly then close the door and start it. And if the load is heavy, it will stop tumbling and just blow hot air till I take some clothes out, turn the drum slightly, close door and restart. FYR, the drum turns freely without noise or wobble since the bearings were replaced.
I have a Sears Mod. 110.65132411 that stopped working in mid-cycle after partially drying a load of sheets and will not restart. Have checked power feed to drier. Do not believe vent line is clogged.
Our dryer stopped drying. We cleaned out the lint and the hose, still didn’t work. Got a new dryer, still didn’t work. Is there lint all the way up in the wall that I can’t reach? Or is it because the hose got bent when we pulled the dryer out to clean it?
Sounds like you’ve got a clog somewhere in your dryer hose / venting system. The clog is preventing enough airflow to keep the safety thermostat on your heating unit from tripping. To test for this, remove the dryer hose and run one load through to see if the heat continues to cycle normally. The temperature at the exhaust should cycle between 120 and 160 degrees F.
Cleaned air vent inside and out. Changed heating element. Heats for like two minutes then will not heat again. Cleaned where the blower is. Heated again for a few minutes then went cold. Its still turning on the inside and timer is running thru the cycle. Ugh so frustrated. Its a five yr old maytag centennial.
I have a trim dryer and it gets hot but drum is not drying clothes what can be the problem?
I have a Admiral electric dryer model number AED4475TQ1. Won’t dry clothes on sensor time. but dries on other settings, dryer wall vents were cleared of lint. took backing off the back of the dryer and cleaned all the lint out as well.Took 7 hours to dry 3 loads. Can you give me any feed back of what the problem could be. Thank you
I have a Kenmore gas dryer model #11092832100, dryer intermittently dried clothes, changed thermal fuse, dryer worked for about 10 minutes. Cleaned vent tube, lent trap and entire dryer mechanical area including blower fan box leading to lent trap prior to changing thermal fuse. What causes thermal fuse to keep blowing? Or better yet, what to check next after thermal fuse is replaced.
I have a kenmore dryer that is not heating up, I checked thermostat and heating element and the blower everything is working fine! Not sure what to do next!
I’ve cleaned out all vents.
Hi I have a estate by whirlpool electric dryer sometimes it heats sometimes it doesn’t… tested all parts and cleaned all vents and it may get hot once a day other times it blows cool air no matter the setting any suggestions ?!?!?!?
Lisa,
Check the VENT HOSE at the back of the dryer.
It is most likely clogged with lint and needs to be completely cleaned out.
-RR
Kenmore dryer for 7 years and has been working just fine until recently.
It gets hot but was taking at least an hour for clothes to dry.
Checked the lint filter and it was good and checked the hose on the back and it was good as well.
Live in an apartment so the maintenance guys checked vents on the outside of building and said they were clear so not sure what else to check.
My roper dryer is not drying on all settings
I have a Kenmore gas dryer I bought in 1998.
It has been working fine with no symptoms.
Suddenly it stopped drying the clothes.
The motor is turning the bin and the timer is working.
I checked the lint vent piping exhaust pipe and it had some accumulation of lint on the sides but was not obstructed in any serious way.
This is model 110.76912693.
Would the thermal fuse go just due to old age or does it have to have an overheating situation to blow it.
We always empty the lint filter after each use.
I looked on the owner’s manual and it seems like I would have to remove the entire two back panels to access the fuse so I didn’t bother.
If it is not the fuse, is the next option the thermostat?
The performance did not gradually go.
It was abrupt, from good to no heat at all.
andrew,
We would suggest to replace the thermostat if you have already changed the heating element.
-RR
I have a Kenmore dryer model number 110.65132411.
It heats but takes a long time to dry.
Watched a video on kenmore’s site to do basic troubleshooting.
Everything checked out with multimeter except when i checked for continuity from the one wiring harness on the timer to the dryer high limit thermostat.
It should be reading 15 ohms and reading 9.6.
Changed the heating element and still taking a long time to dry and getting the same reading on the multimeter.
Not sure if it’s the thermostat or something else.
The dryer is only a year and a half old.
Mike,
The gas coils are probably worn out, very common for this type of problem.
-RR
I have a Kenmore Gas Dryer.
The dryer worked perfectly until recently.
Now, when I initially begin to use the dryer, the lighter coil (not sure if that’s what it’s called) will heat to a glow, then it ignites the gas and the flame flows and heat is generated, and everything works great.
Then it switches off, which I guess is normal so it doesn’t overheat.
The problem occurs when the second cycle or any heating cycle thereafter.
The lighter coil heats to a bright orange glow but it never ignites.
I can hear a click as if it should ignite but it doesn’t after that first cycle.
I have thoroughly vacuumed out the bottom housing compartment where the coil and other parts are.
I’ve thoroughly cleaned the lint trap and also the exhaust hose to make sure there wasn’t any excess buildup or lint.
I’ve made sure the exhaust hose isn’t kinked or bent and the air is flowing freely.
I’ve checked the exterior vent to make sure there are no obstructions.
This is so weird to me because it works fine during the initial startup cycle.
It heats well initially, but never continues so clothes don’t get dry.
The drum spins well.
I really need to fix this because I can not afford a new dryer.
I have a front load Maytag dryer.
The lights on the front panel are blinking (like they a burning out)
When I turn dryer on it starts working for a few seconds and then it shuts off on its own.
I just moved to a new house with an LG Sensory Dryer. Dryer worked well for a couple of loads, then started getting error D90 and turning off. Disconnected the hose and ran a test try, which was successful so we know the heat is working properly. We cleaned the vent hose and both exhausts (dryer and home exterior). Cleaned lint filter. Re-attached the hose, and still getting the error.
I have a Bosch Nexxt 700 series electric dryer that constantly gives the E:01 error code. That’s the lint filter code but the duct work is clean and have put a new vent cover outside and even replaced the lint filter. Could it be build up in the ducts inside the machine? Thanks
I have a Maytag front loader dryer that will spin but will not heat.
It’s Ensignia model, Quiet Series 200.
The thing I don’t get is how to open the machine to check it?
Colleen,
Check to be sure the THERMAL FUSE on your LG Dryer is now blown.
Usually when a dryer spins but DOES NOT HEAT it is the THERMAL FUSE.
Also be sure that if the dryer is on 2 different 110 breakers, that one of them is not tripped.
-RR
I have an LG front loader dryer model: DLEX 2650W purchased three years ago. The dryer will spin but will not heat. I cleaned the lint filter and the air dryer vent hose. The wasn’t a clog. It will spin but will not heat. Any suggestions?
shaun,
If you went from a 4 prong outlet to a 3 prong outlet and you replaced the 4 prong cord with a 3 prong cord, be absolutely sure it is wired properly.
If the LG dryer spins but does not heat, then the best possible reason for this is the wiring is incorrect.
Recheck the wiring for the 3 prong cord and check the wiring in the wall outlet to be sure it is wired properly.
Also check breakers to be sure it is not on 2 breakers and one has tripped.
A thermal fuse may be bad but in this case it sounds as if the wiring may be wrong.
Let us know what you find to be the issue.
-RR
I have an LG Dryer DLE2101w.
I just moved and the new place i was forced to switch from a 4 prong to a 3 prong cord.
I did that and hooked up the wires as specified but when I turn on the dryer it works fine but there is no hot air.
Did I do something wrong and how do i diagnose it?
Maybe a thermal fuse or heat unit?
Admiral dryer. It turns on and the drum turns but it is not heating. I took the heating element, all thermostats, and the thermal fuse and had them checked and they are all working fine. I’ve cleaned out any lint that may have been in there, replaced the dryer hose and the vent from wall to the outside is completely clear, no lint or blockage seen. Any other suggestions?????? I’m on a tight budget and can’t afford to pay a repairman.
Amanda,
The fan in your Kenmore dryer is either burned out and needs to be replaced, or the wiring connection is loose or damaged.
Check the wiring harnesses for damage or simply being loose.
Reconnect the wiring if needed.
If you believe the blower fan in your dryer is bad, type the model number of the Kenmore dryer into Google.
Find your Kenmore dryer on an appliance parts website and find the blower fan part number.
Order the fan and remove and replace.
This will be cheaper than hiring a technician or buying a new dryer.
Make sure you shop around to find the best price for the part you need.
Even try Amazon if possible as they have many parts for appliances and next day shipping.
Watch some YouTube videos to see how to take the dryer apart and replace the blower fan.
If you need additional assistance, please let us know.
-RR
I have a Kenmore, front load, stackable dryer. It has heat and the drum turns, but the fan seems to have stopped working. There is no airflow at all. We have cleaned the hose and trap fully. We have taken the hose off and the fan still does not blow. What could be the problem? Would it be cheaper to have it fixed or just buy new. We got them second hand but they are probably only about 5 years old.
Thanks for the quick response.
He did not check anything other than the outside vent. Once he cleared the airflow, we immediately got heat. So he collected his payment and left. He mentioned that if they dyer got heat, then the thermal fuse should be working fine and it did not get blown or need replaced.
I did find the model number for the GE Dryer – DHDVH52GF1WW – and also discovered it is gas not electric.
If it is the thermal fuse, is there an easy way to replace this myself?
I did not know the lint filter in the dryer was there!
Cleaned it and works great now!
Mitch,
Did the repair guy check the thermal fuse?
You may have a bad fuse or possible faulty thermostat, wiring, or control panel/timer assembly issue depending on the model number of your GE dryer.
The most likely issue is a bad thermal fuse.
Also, be sure you are getting the proper voltage to the dryer, you may have it on 2 breakers and one is tripped.
-RR
Had a repair guy come in and look at our dryer. Our outside vent was clogged causing us to not have heat. After it was unclogged it went back to working, paid the man and thought I learned my lesson on keeping the vents clean.
Came back 2 days later and we are back with no heat. Checked and airflow seems to be good.
Any thoughts on what the problem could be? We have a GE electric dryer – not sure of the model.
Williams,
Yes it will be okay for one load. This troubleshooting procedure will tell you if the problem is in the wall (lint build-up) or if the dryer is not drying as designed and a part needs to be replaced.
-RR
My dryer vents out a long way from the laundry room (over 30 feet). I’ve had the vent line cleaned but clothes still take a long time to dry. Repairman says heating element works fine. Should I detach vent hose from back of dryer, dry a load and see if it works? If this works, then I would know the problem is with the venting, not the dryer itself, right? Is it ok to vent into the house for just one load?
Stacey,
Is your Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer set on HIGH HEAT?
Is the lint filter, lint duct, and wall duct COMPLETELY FREE OF LINT BUILD-UP?
If all is clean of lint, then you may have a thermostat or element issue and that is why it is not heating properly.
-RR
I have a Whirlpool cabrio dryer model # wed6400sw1. I have had a repair guy out to look at my dryer. It is running hot but will not completely dry my clothes. On timed or auto dry it takes at least 2 times on 60 min. Cycle to dry on timed dry. And I don’t know why. Can you help please?
My dryer (Kenmore 70 series gas dryer) will heat-up for about 30 seconds, then the heats cuts out. I took the plug off (the one located on the face of the dryer located in front of the blower…don’t know the exact name of this plug) and was able to view the dryer heating element begin “glowing” for 30 seconds, and then it went out (no longer glowing). Therefore, the clothes do not dry at all. The lint trap has been cleaned, the vent hose has been cleaned out (to include the portion that goes through the wall leading to the outside), and the element has been changed (about 2 months ago).
Mine is a estate dryer too and I pushed the button with door open… it spins and I feel warm air blowing it just won’t dry my clothes… and I clean lent trap out every load…
Ok. Checked and there is good air flow and no lint build up. Checked all thermostats and replaced thermister and control board, still doesn’t heat up. Checked heating element and nothing wrong there. There has never been an error code on the display panel. At a loss as to what to check next. Think I will give up and just go buy a new dryer.
Sharon,
The most common reason for a dryer to NO HEAT is a clogged vent line or vent system.
Check lint filter, vent line, and in wall to be sure lint has not built up and is causing the Samsung dryer to NOT HEAT.
If no lint blockage, check thermostats, and check wiring to control board.
-RR
I have a Samsung DV45H7000EW dryer. It is 2 years old. Sometimes it heats up and dries the clothes and sometimes it doesn’t. Was gone for a month on vacation and had it unplugged and it worked fine before that. Suggestions on what could be wrong.
Jessica,
You checked the THERMAL FUSE correct?
Also, if the dryer melted the circuit breaker, you may have a major wiring issue with the dryer.
Check all wires and be sure the wires on the terminal are secure… also in the plug.
-RR
Ok so we need help. We have a whirlpool Duet dryer and last week I was running the dryer when the circuit breaker stated melting and making all kinds of noise. So we put an new circuit breaker in we, we are getting 240 at the dryer. Since then I have no heat in the dryer. The heating element is fine with a 9.9 om. The fuse for the heating element is fine. So now what. Is the dryer done?? The dryer is only 10 years old.
Mariah Saffold,
Check the thermal fuse on the back.
Also be sure the dryer is getting the full voltage it needs.
Check the plug and terminals to be sure it is wired securely.
Can you give us the model number of your HAIER Dryer?
-RR
The lights on my dryer come on and the drum begins to turn like it’s going to work, but then it stops. No heat is blowing. I cleaned the lint trap and removed half of the load and it it’s still not working. “Encore Haier Super Capacity ” is the model I think. Please help.
I have a Samsung model:DV40J3000EW Electric Dryer. All the lights come on but when I select start…The “selected type” and the “Dryer” light blink…then in couple minutes it stops and plays the jingle like it’s complete. But The dryer never heats or spins
My gas dryer sometimes dry cloths sometimes not at all. What can be a problem?
Elen Simonyan,
Please supply us with your Clothes Dryer Make and Model number and we can investigate further.
Also, check inside the dryer tumbler for damaged metal that may be sticking out and therefore ripping your clothing.
Please let us know what you find.
-RR
There is something wrong with my dryer. It’s working but spoils (tears up) all my clothes! I have no idea why!
Marina Delray,
Have you made sure the vent hose is on correctly?
No lint in walls that may be blocking airflow?
You can see if the vent hose is being blocked by disconnecting the vent hose and run a load of clothing in your dryer and if your clothes dry as normal, the wall has lint buildup.
-RR
Just purchased a new Whirlpool dryer, model wed4815ew1, it does not dry, even a small load, of clothing. Checked vent, tested using whirlpool test kit. Whirlpool will not let me return. Help!!! 5 days before tech can come out to look at machine. New machine, doesn’t do the ONE job it was built for.
Rachael,
If your Samsung dryer heating element went bad, you replaced it correctly, turned the dryer on and it immediately shut OFF…. you may have a blown high limit fuse. Check on the back of your dryer as this is a safety feature.
Is the heating element possibly touching the housing, wires not connected tightly? If the dryer went dead after replacing the heating element, it may be installed wrong.
Do any of the lights work at all or does it seem the Samsung dryer is dead? If there are some lights on, you may have a bad Samsung Dryer high-limit thermostat DC96-00887A.
Do some further troubleshooting and let us know what you find.
Here is the Samsung DV410AER/XAA Dryer Manual
-RR
I have a Samsung dryer model number DV410AER/XAA. It was turning on and pretending to work but wasn’t actually drying the clothes. I took it apart and replaced the heating element (it was broken). Once I got everything back together, I turned it on and it started but stopped a second later and NOW it wont even come on. ** I did turn it on before I hooked the tube back into it (thinking that would be a good idea but I have read that I was wrong. ugh!)** Someone said maybe I flipped a ‘safety feature’ since the tube wasn’t on but I don’t know. Once it stopped working altogether, I did try flipping the breaker for the dryer as well as the whole house but no luck. I am not sure what to do next. I am not able to pay someone to come and fix it but I am not afraid to get my hands dirty either. I just need some guidance. If anyone is able to help, I will appreciate it forever! :) :)
Jenae Watson,
If the Admiral dryer worked well before it was moved, then either something in the dryer may have disconnected or the new vent it is connected to is clogged somewhere. Make sure the dryer is properly connected to the vent and be sure the vent is 100% clear of lint and debris. Let us know what you find, if it is the dryer causing the issue or the vent.
-RR
I have an Admiral dryer. It has been doing great but we have recently moved and now it is not drying the clothes completely. There clothes are damp and when I open the dryer heat comes out and the clothes are hot and damp. It hasn’t ever done this before. I checked the vent and shortened it because it was really long. I am drying the same amount of clothes I usually do. I have no idea what is wrong.
MacBryghde,
Check the thermal fuse at the back of your dryer to be sure it is not blown. You will need a multimeter to test it.
-RR
Niranjan,
Have you checked the thermal fuse at the back of your Kenmore dryer with a meter to be sure it is not blown?
-RR
Hi, my drier recently stopped producing heat. I stayed up all night trying to deduce the problem but to no avail. The drum turns, lint is being moved the drier to the lint screen, and the hose is not clogged. I cannot afford a new drier, I’m a little desperate, i need help, anyone who could tell me whats wrong with it, that would be much appreciated, thank you.
Hi Team, I have Kenmore clothes dryer and it stopped work as a result of overheating. However, I have followed all the instructions provided in the forum with basic tools I have and still the seems not to work. Any possible suggestions please.
Larry,
What is the make and model number of your dryer? Have you checked all wiring, control panel, timer, voltage to the dryer?
-RR
Tested all thermostats, fuses and heating element on my electric dryer, all were good and still no heat! What else could be the problem?
Phil Bangert,
Check the dial and controls. You may have a bad timer or switch that only sometimes supplies power to the elements. Unplug the dryer and check behind the control panel. Check the parts with a multimeter.
-RR
We have a Fisher Paykel dryer (Model # DE09-US0) and it is occasionally giving us heat. Some times it does, and it doesn’t seem to matter what heat setting we use. In order to get heat, we turn the dial and set the timer again. This sometimes works after turning the dial multiple times.
Any suggestions on what could be causing this? The lint trap is clean and the hose is clear as well.
Thanks!
Maureen,
You have a major electrical problem. The door switch is somehow activating the dryer. The dryer will need to be taken apart and looked at. Unplug the dryer and have a look at the door assembly switch. It may be fried and causing the dryer to run when the door is shut. You may also have issues with the main control board. Check for burn marks, loose connections, etc… Let us know what you find.
-RR
My 4 year old Samsung dryer is turning on as soon as the door is closed. The display unit is not coming on at all and I can only turn it off by opening the door. It’s not heating either. The heat canister and 2 thermostats were just replaced in January. Any thoughts ? I’m ready to throw this thing into the woods, what an expensive piece of junk.
Conor Fitzgerald,
Check on YouTube using your make and model number of your dryer to find where it is located.
-RR
Thanks for replying so quickly. I’m a bit of a novice at so so excuse my ignorance. Will I have to open the back of the dryer to find the thermal fuse? Thanks
Conor Fitzgerald,
Try checking the thermal fuse at the back of your dryer. It may have blown and therefore no heat.
-RR
My dryer has stopped heating up. Everything else seems to be working fine but it won’t heat. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1979 Maytag DG410 gas dryer that I am (stubbornly) reluctant to replace because it hasn’t completely given up the ghost and we’re on a tight budget. Here’s what it does: If I run it after it has been sitting for a few days I can usually get it to dry one load if the “delicate” button is pushed rather than “regular” and if I use it on “more dry” rather than the timed or the permanent press options. When I push “start” the igniter glows white hot and there is an audible click and then the gas ignites. The problem is, after the cycle is about 30 or so minutes in, the igniter is no longer able to ignite the gas. You can hear the click where it’s trying to but it’s as if the gas isn’t being released (or at least not making contact) even though it was earlier in the cycle. So naturally at this point the cycle becomes nothing more than air fluff and clothes remain damp. I realize this is a very old dryer and it’s only still kicking because I’ve already replaced the igniter, a belt and some drum related part (can’t remember which one). My husband thinks this is unlikely but is there anyway there could be a partial obstruction on the gas line? And if so, who does one call for help with that? Our local gas company?
lacey,
Is the dryer tumbling and powering on or just NOT HEATING? You may have a 2 breaker system in your home to the dryer and one of them reset.
-RR
Our dryer just stopped heating, we have been unplugging it to conserve energy, do you think this is what the problem may be and how can I fix it?
Megan,
Yes, if your Whirlpool dryer is actually heating (and set on HIGH heat) but the clothes are taking forever to dry, then yes there is most likely a clog of lint or another blockage. If the air is vented through and up to the roof, the issue could be at roof level. Have the condo HOA association get someone to go and check to see if the clog is actually at the roof level. The clog or blockage could be in the venting duct going from somewhere in between the wall (behind the dryer) and up and to the roof opening. Let us know what you find.
-RR
Hi we bought a used Estate by Whirlpool heavy duty super capacity electric dryer and it tumbles, heats up (inside feels hot outside feels warm) but my clothes are taking six hours to dry. They’re warm to touch but still just super wet. The lint trap is clean the back hose is new. We live in a condo that vents it out through the roof. Before my husband goes and buys parts. Is it most likely the vent going out since everything heats up and tumbles?
I have a Kenmore 27″ electric dryer, model #110.63014101. It takes longer than normal to dry a load. There appears to be heat as the clothes are warm, but perhaps not enough heat. I cleaned the blower wheel and exhaust parts which did have a fair bit lint packed in, but it still does not heat sufficiently. I am handy and can replace parts if I know which ones to replace. I have the manual with all the part numbers, so can order the correct parts. I don’t have a multimeter however.
My question is: what is the most likely issue here? Heating element? High limit thermostat? Cycling thermostat? Temperature sensor? The machine otherwise runs the same as before, so I assume it is not thermal fuse(s).
Thanks for any advice!
Hello, My Indesit PWDE 7124S washer – dryer machine taking too much time to dry clothes. Looks like the upper panel is getting warm when machine is at dry program, but clothes are not getting hot. Can you help me where to check if there are some stuff blocking air ? Thanks.
Sherry,
You most likely have a bad thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is used on a dryer as a safety fuse for overheat. Check this page here to see if this is what you are experiencing with your dryer… Dryer not heating – Thermal Fuse.
-RR
Mike,
Yes you may have the wrong thermostat. Check part number on old thermostat and order the correct OEM part. If problem still persists, let us know.
-RR
The exhaust hose isn’t blocked, I replaced the thermal fuse and the thermostat and my dryer is still not getting hot. Sometimes it works and sometimes not. I ordered the parts online and the new thermostat says it was for 240v and my original one said 120v could that be a problem? What about those two other little electrical parts going to the vertical box they at some other kind of sensor things?
My whirlpool dryer is twenty years old but is in great condition. Recently, it decided to stop heating when running. The instruction manual does not label any of the parts on the back of the dryer. We have determined that there is no continuity on the part on the upper back of the dryer but we’re not sure what it is. Can you help please?
Joyce,
You most likely have a bad thermostat, temp controller, or possible element. We would suggest to take the dryer apart and check the components we listed with a meter.
-RR
i also took the vent off the back to see if that would dry the clothes and eliminate the clogged vent somewhere. It did not seem to help and the air coming out was only luke warm
I have a front loading Electrolux dryer
Electrolux EIMGD55IIW 8.0 Cu. Ft. Gas Front Load Dryer with IQ-Touch Controls featuring Perfect Steam
It is only 1 year old. It does not seem to dry thoroughly anymore, especially since the weather turned colder. I checked the vent and cleaned it up to the roof. Actually stuck a leaf blower up the pipe to blow it all out. It did not seem to help. Any suggestions.
Pete,
If moisture is getting back into the vent hose from your Samsung dryer, there may be a component in the dryer that is not working properly. If the clothing takes forever to dry, you may have a thermostat, heating element, or control board issue. If you know for sure that all the dryer venting lines are 100% clear, then the problem is within your Samsung dryer. Use a multimeter and test all components to be sure everything is working as designed.
-RR
I have a 5 year old Samsung Front Loading Electric Dryer. I’ve cleaned out vent hose and inside the dryer of all lint. I actually changed out the rear vent. The dryer heats up just fine but it seems that there is water build up in the vent hose. The clothes are moist and will not dry all the way and stays on for 3+ hours…It seems like my dryer is working fine because it heats up and tumbles just fine. Is there something else that is not within the dryer I should be looking at? Is moisture coming back into the dryer somehow? I am at a loss. Should I try the exterior vent? Please help…
Lori Laverone,
Is your Whirlpool dryer heating at all? If no heat whatsoever, check the thermal fuse on back. If you get some heat, it may be a lint issue in the wall, lint in the dryer itself or a thermostat issue. Try some further troubleshooting and see what you can find.
-RR
We removed all lint from inside of dryer, lint trap and vent hose and clothes still won’t dry. Any suggestions? 8 year old Whirlpool front loading dryer.
Drew,
Have you tested the thermal fuse and checked to be sure you are getting the correct voltage to the dryer?
-RR
I replaced the lower high temp limiter switch and had the heater coils tested ok. Dryer will still not heat up
Watkins,
Is the complete dryer without power or will it just NOT HEAT? If you have NO power at all and the breaker is ON, then have a look at the back of the dryer to be sure the terminal and wires are intact. Could also be an issue with the plug or cord from wall to dryer. Have you opened up the dryer with it unplugged to see if you find any obvious signs of an issue? What model number is your Samsung dryer?
-RR
My Samsung dryer appeared to be running fine, but after drying a load of laundry, it lost power. The unit will not turn on. It is about 4-1/2 years old and I have not had issues with it in the past. Outside of a paying a pricey repair bill, any ideas? I have already reset the breaker, cleaned the lint trap and reset all the GFIs that could be in the same circuit to no avail.
Phillip Breunig,
If the venting system is clean of lint… Then you may have an issue with a number of things. Does the dryer still turn but just will not heat? Or does the power to the complete dryer go out?
-RR
John Glenn,
This problem is most likely the igniter the thing that glows. That is what provides the resistance to provide the current for the coils to open in your gas valve. It is a $30 dollar fix and can be done with minimal effort.
-RR
Have a Maytag gas dryer replaced both coil valves and brand-new vent from the back of the dryer to the outside of the house cleaned and cleared everything of lint dryer will not heat up and dry it will glow and ignite but not stay on long enough to dry clothes. The lint trap and inside the dryer everything was cleared of Lint if we vent it into the laundry room it gets hot and will dry clothes so don’t know what else to do. Thank you
Duet Gas Dryer (Mod. GGW9260PW0) will not ignite flame after initial start up. The dryer will ignite flame when cycle starts, but when it calls for heat after the initial lighting, the igniter glows but the flame does not return. It will continue running the cycle as if all is normal, but the flame will not light when called for after the first lighting at the beginning of the cycle.
I have a GE DBVH512 and it was shutting off after 3 minute when running on high. After 5 minutes the power comes back on and it was running fine. It runs fine on medium heat. I checked the lint filter, piping, and hose and there was no blockage. I also cleaned all of them out and it still continued to do it. I even vacuumed out the inside (including the motor). There were no error codes when I tried to pull them.
Had a professional come out and went through the same process of cleaning and found a large amount of lint on the vent on top of the roof. He ran it empty and it ran fine, but when we put cloths in later we had the same problem (my wife suggested running it with cloths in it when he was here, but he told her that this wouldn’t make a difference. On the return trip, they replaced the thermostat and said if that doesn’t solve the problem; we may want to replace the control board. Now the dryer is shutting off twice when running it on the high cycle. They want $300.00 for the board. Any suggestions?
Eric,
Not to imply you did anything wrong, but if it shorted out the moment power was applied, something was wired wrong or a wire may have been touching the side of the dryer. Did the breaker reset? Is the dryer plug burnt? Where is the damage? Inside where the blower wheel was installed? Let us know.
-RR
kenneth patrick samek,
Most likely the dryer power is on 2 breakers and one is off. Possibly 2 120V breakers are connected to the dryer and one is turned off meaning the dryer has the power to spin and turn, but not to heat. The dryer needs 120V to spin and 120V to heat. CHECK THE BREAKER BOX OR FUSE BOX. Let us know what you find.
-RR
My friends dryer would heat clothes so i gave her my dryer that worked now it dont dry at her house either.
Hi, I just replaced the blower wheel on my stacked maytag dryer. Put the front back on and ran the dryer for about 5 seconds heard a pop, saw a spark and burnt smell. No power now with no sound of the motor running… any ideas what to do?
Tanya,
Test the thermal fuse at back with a meter to be sure it is not blown. As long as you have cleaned the vent hose, lint trap, and the wall is clear of lint, the next most likely problem is the fuse. If the fuse is okay then it may be a thermostat or a board issue. Check thermal fuse first.
-RR
Matt Pisani,
Yes the vent hose is most likely clogged with lint. If the vent hose or in the dryer or wall, there is lint build-up, the dryer cannot expel the hot air and therefore will take longer to dry your clothes. Try cleaning all the venting areas and that should solve your issue. If not let us know.
-RR
I have a Maytag dryer that’s not quite 2 years old and my dryer vent was cleaned out about 2 years ago. It seems like all my clothes need to go through a 2 drying cycles before they are dry. Could that really be the dryer vent causing this issue or are there other things to look for like a bad sensor?
Hello I have a Frigidaire dryer, it says affinity on the front along with wrinkle release technology, my problem is the dryer is spinning but no heat, I unplugged it and pulled it out and took the hose off and looked in it but didn’t see any lint, I am always cleaning the lint trap after every load. What else could be wrong with it! Thank you
Just want to take a moment to thank the folks maintaining and contributing to this site. It has an incredible amount of useful information. I had trouble with my dryer not drying the clothes fully and I found this site googling for the problem. Thankfully my issue was fixed at step 2 by clearing the air vent hose. But I was curious and read all the next steps just in case I needed to work on any of those. I found that the instructions were explained in a simple and concise manner which was very helpful for a novice like me. Much appreciated.
Patrick,
Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer PF error code = Power Failure = PF flashes to indicate that a power failure occurred while the dryer was running. Press START to continue the cycle, or press PAUSE/CANCEL to clear the display.
Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer AF error code = Restricted Airflow Condition = AF flashes if a restricted airflow condition exists. Check to make sure the lint screen is clean, the door seal is in place and the vent is not obstructed.
If the timer is malfunctioning, check the board for any issues such as burn or scorch marks. If you reset the dryer, does the error code reset?
-RR
Our Whirlpool Cabrio Model#WED7800XWO is displaying error codes ‘PF’/’AF’. I have checked the lint screen, cleared the vent hose all the way to the outside. It also intermittently jumps time on the countdown timer. Went from 45 minutes to 5 minutes in just under 10.
Paul,
The switch that controls the heat temp could be faulty. There may be a wiring issue. Unplug the dryer and have a look in the control panel for wiring issue. You may also have a bad thermostat or other related part. Here is a parts guide to your Samsung Dryer DV218AGW.
-RR
I have a Samsung Dryer dv218agw/xaa. The dryer works on medium heat, but it barley heats up when the high heat setting is selected (it gives about the same heat a low). Do you have an idea about what might causing this and how to fix it.
Hily,
If you have 2 dryers, are they both hooked to the same vent? Check the wall or vent hoses to be sure you do not have a lint blockage. If you have 2 dryers that both will spin but they both stopped heating at the same time, it is most likely the vent is clogged, or possibly you lost part of the power. Are the dryers electric? Are they both on the same circuit breaker? Possible that there are 2 breakers and one has flipped into the off position?
-RR
I have 2 dryers that are brand new they will start but won’t heat up to dry the clothes. Any ideas as to what it could be?
Sylvia,
Can you look in and see if the igniter is glowing red?
If you DO see it glowing red and then it fades off without any burner ignition, the cause is a weak solenoid coil or coils.
If you DO NOT see any red glow, the failure could be one of the following parts:
Timer, Hi-limit thermostat, Operating thermostat, Thermal fuse, Igniter, Motor centrifugal switch, or Flame sensor.
Let us know what you find.
-RR
Heather,
If the dryer spins and HEATS, then you most likely have lint blockage behind the dryer. Clean out the vent hose and the wall. Heavy lint buildup will not allow the hot air to escape, therefore your clothes take forever to dry.
-RR
I have a whirlpool dryer that is not drying my clothes. It heats up and the drum is turning, but it takes sometimes days at a time to get a load of laundry dry. I do clean the filter all the time, so I don’t really know what the problem is. Anyone have any idea what it could be?
I have a Maytag dependable care quiet plus Itelli dry gas dryer. A few months ago it would only ignite on the regular setting. Would not ignite on the time dry or the permanent press setting. So I just used the regular setting the last few months. Now Its not igniting on that setting either. Any thoughts please and thank you.
Debbie K,
If both thermostats are working, and you are sure the thermal fuse at back is not blown, then you may have a wiring issue or the control board or timer is not working properly. Have you checked to see if you are getting the proper power to the heating element? Have you made sure that the dryer is not set up on a 2 breaker system and one is switched off since the dryer is most likely 220V? Have you checked the plug going into the wall to be sure the wiring is tight and secure? Have you checked the wiring coming into the dryer? Checked the terminals? Made sure the wiring inside the dryer is not damaged or loose? If you have the proper power to the dryer, then either a part is bad, or there is a wiring issue in the dryer or on a component.
-RR
We have an electric dryer we’ve used for the past 15 years or so. Just recently it stopped heating, but everything else seemed to be working. It will tumble dry, but it takes 3 hours. We’ve used an ohm meter to check all the thermostats and fuses and found only one faulty, so we replaced it. We also replaced the heating element to find out our old one was actually working (it was tested at the parts store). Our dryer is still not heating. Is there something else we could check? The dryer runs well in every other aspect. We cannot understand why the dryer is not getting hot. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your dryer not heating. I am experiencing the exact same thing with my exact same model dryer. I am at a lost as to what needs fixed? Help appreciated!
I am renting and we were furnished with a dryer that gets hot but takes to long to dry clothes i ran my brush down the roof vent and got the lint out. i changed all three of the thermostats. It blows out hot air from the back when the hose is off but when reattached i can.t feel any air flow out the roof vent i also found that the vent coming out of the wall was not attached correctly to the 90 going up the wall and the wall have lint built up inside them i haven’t opened up the wall yet to get to all the lint but i did fix the tube but still not getting air to the roof vent . The dryer is an electric Estate Model #TEDS 780.jQO
Jeanna,
We are not sure the model number of your Whirlpool dryer, but is it possible you have inadvertently switched the dryer to low heat? Check the temp settings to be sure. If you have cleaned all lint build up and the dryer still does not dry, you may have a blown thermal fuse. Test with a meter if you have one. You can try taking the vent hose off when running the dryer and see if hot air is blowing out of the dryer. That is a way to test to see if you have some lint build up in the wall where the vent hose hooks into. If you feel hot air coming directly out of the back of the dryer, then your problem is lint build up in the wall.
-RR
I have a Whirlpool Dryer, it gets hot but it’s not drying the clothes. I cleaned out the vent from the back and also the filter. Is it the heating element?? I’m trying to do it myself.. PLEASE HELP!!!!!
E,
If the lint catcher on your Dryer is ripped, cut in half, or a part of it is missing, your dryer is sucking all the lint into the inside of the dryer and most likely clogging the air flow and air vent. Replace the lint screen, clean out the internal dryer of ALL LINT with a shopvac, remove dryer vent hose and clean out. That should fix your dryer problem. Find a new lint screen on Amazon.
-RR
Lois,
If your dryer is turning but NOT HEATING and the heating elements and thermostats are in working order, you most likely have a blown thermal fuse. Have you checked it with a meter? Also check the electrical connections at the back of the dryer to be sure it is getting the correct voltage/power.
-RR
My dryer is not drying clothes. Have checked heating elements as well as thermostat. So what could it be?
Will a broken lint catcher affect the time of how long to dry? Our dryer takes two or three cycles to dry. Our lint catcher is split on one side, could that be our issue?
My 14 year old Whirlpool Duet gas dryer was running, but not heating. I went to the local home improvement stores and found the best price on the same, but newer, model and I paid to have it delivered in 7 days. With two days to go before delivery, I was wondering if there was something easy and less expensive that I could do to fix my old dryer. So I sat down with my tablet and searched the Internet for how to sites that may give me some guidance on my model number dryer. After viewing some of the videos, I decided to give it a shot. I unplugged the dryer and removed the front service panel below the dryer door. The space was filled with 14 years of lint that had escaped around the lint trap. I cleaned the accumulation of lint and plugged the dryer back in. With the service panel still removed, I turned the dryer on. I watched as the igniter began to glow and moved out of the direct line of the combustion chamber. After a few moments, the gas valves opened, the igniter did its job and there was a steady burning flame in the combustion chamber. The dryer was heating. After replacing the service panel and starting the dryer, it was still working properly. I guess the accumulation of lint wasn’t letting enough air in to establish a good fuel air ratio for proper combustion. Time to go cancel my purchase and have nearly $800.00 dollars credited back to my credit card. And to set an automatic annual reminder on my phone calendar to clean out the lint behind the service panel. I’ll get a new dryer vent hose as a present for my dryer as a thank you gift for saving me some money.
I replaced the solenoids on the gas valves and that appears to have solved the problem. Only run a couple loads, but it now works as it should. Thanks for the help.
Kevin,
The no heat issue is most likely a thermostat bad or faulty internal wiring. But that was your earlier issue… Now no power? If you had power, replaced the cord, and now NO power, then obviously something was wired incorrectly. Check breaker, check terminal strip, check cord to plug, check that cord is not faulty.
-RR
I have a whirlpool duet sport dryer. Would spin but no heat. Clean all the pipes out, put new pipes from dryer to pipe going out side, still no heat. Had the fuse, and heat element replace, still nothing. My repair man told me to replace cord with a new one. I did that. Colors match up like they are suppose to. Now no power at all. Replaced outlet still no power?? Any ideas?? Desperate! Only five years old??
Jake,
Check the solenoids on top of the gas valve. They supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop. May be an intermittent issue.
-RR
I’ve got an Amana gas dryer, front loading that will heat intermittently. It’s about 12 years old. It will usually start up and heat as it should. Then mid cycle when we open the door to take out shirts, it will not heat again, but it will spin. I’ve cleaned out the lint trap as this seems the most common issue, but it did not solve the problem. I can watch the igniter glow, but it will not heat. Since it does heat sometimes, I would assume the gas valves are working properly. Any ideas what I should look at next.
Pam,
Then it must be with the dryer itself. If it has NO POWER then a fuse or something may have come loose from the cord, back of dryer or similar. The switch/control panel may be bad therefore not lighting up and seeming to not get power. What is model number of your dryer?
-RR
Would it be the circuit breaker as the washer is still working and they are plugged in the same outlet?
So no power
Pam,
No power or no heat?
Check power cord, and circuit breaker.
If dryer has power, but won’t heat, check thermal fuse and lint filter and vent hose for blockage.
-RR
My Samsung stackable dryer just stopped working, it has no power
Rosa,
If the ducts are clear, have you cleaned lint filter? If so, make sure controls are set for high heat. If all is well, then there may be an issue in the dryer. Have you checked thermal fuse? Breaker? Plug for damage? Outlet?
-RR
I have a front loader Samsung dryer model # DV218AEB/XAA it’s not producing heat. I checked the ducts and unclogged. Still not producing heat
David,
Can you explain in more detail? We understand you have a ventless dryer, and this causes humidity?
-RR
We have an electric Whirlpool stackable ventless dryer that turns our condo into a rain forest every time we use it. Any suggestions? Thanks
Clueless,
There may be lint build up in the inner walls of the dryer therefore causing the lint to only accumulate onto one small area of the lint trap filter. Try using a shop-vac type vacuum with a wand attachment and suck out all the lint under where the lint trap sits. Also, did you have this issue BEFORE you replaced the silver vent hose? Be sure it is not kinked behind the dryer which would restrict air flow.
-RR
Hi, I’m very excited to find this site! Thanks for the helpful tips. I hope you can answer a question that I haven’t been able to figure out online. I have a front loading electric Samsung dryer. I replaced the silver vent hose on the back of the dryer just a few months ago, as well as the heating element that had burned apart in one spot. My lint trap is collecting lint in a smaller and smaller area on the trap. I know that the hose is new, and we cleaned all the lint that we could see from inside the dryer back when we replaced the vent hose. Do you have any ideas what the problem might be? Towels don’t dry through on a timed cycle, by the way. I have to dry them twice. Thanks again for all the helpful tips!
Carlos,
Usually the buzzing noise means a bad motor or that the door is not fully closing the switch. However, if both dryers are doing the same thing and the washer can run off the same outlet, then you must have an electrical issue. It could also be a gas issue. Consult the manual or call Samsung to be sure. You may want to have an electrician have a look at your wiring and test everything. Does the outlet have a ground?
-RR
Both dryer and washer use 120v. Old dryer is GE will make buzz sound but won’t start. Washer also GE but works on same electrical outlet. New Samsung DV350AE came with the new cord. It is digital so lights inside and the panel illuminates and same result as with the old dryer. I press start it would do a buzz sound but it won’t start. Breaker was never tripped before or since. Lint exhaust is clean, what could it be? That gas but nothing has change?
Carlos,
If the washer and dryer use the same voltage, then the electrical outlet is most likely not the issue. Possibly the cord? Did your new Samsung dryer come with its own electrical cord or did you take the one off of the old dryer and put it on the new dryer? What voltage does the washer and dryer use? Does the new dryer make the same type of buzzing noise as the older dryer? What are the similarities and what are the differences? Did it ever trip the breaker when using the dryer (old or new)? What brand and model number is your washer and dryer? We can look into this further, just let us know so we can research the exact washer and dryer you own.
-RR
I have a gas dryer it has share the same outlet as the washing machine. One day the dryer will make a buzz sound and it would not start I plugged the dryer where the washing machine was plugged but same thing happened, the washing machine however worked on both outlets. No fuse tripped I checked twice. I cleaned the lint vent, bought a new tube vent and nothing. I troubleshot manually turned the drum and it started working. I didn’t want to bother with opening and figure out what’s wrong with the dryer so I bought a new one a Samsung and just my luck all the lights are on I press start and just when is about to kick in it stops it won’t start. Same issue as the old one so what could be wrong I figure now is not a dryer issue? Could it be the electric outlet? How so if the washer works fine? The gas line? Tube is almost new. HELP PLEASE.
John Cornwell,
What brand and model number dryer do you have?
You may have a bad control panel or wiring problem.
Both the no drum turning and no heat at the same time are too much of a coincidence to be separate issues.
Open the control panel and check for loose or unsecure wiring.
-RR
My dryer comes on but the drum doesn’t turn and it doesn’t heat up what could be wrong with it
Thank you, it was a massive lint buildup in the vent hose. The dryer is working perfectly now. Thank you!!!!
Karen,
More than likely the dryer overheated with so many clothes in it. The dryer has a thermal fuse which will blow if it senses overheat. We would recommend to check the thermal fuse on the back of your dryer with a multimeter. This is most probable when a dryer is overloaded and the heat cannot escape as efficiently as when a dryer is not overloaded.
You could also have some massive lint buildup that is blocking the vents, especially with new clothes being dried for the first time as all the extra lint comes off at once. Also be sure your temp controls were not accidentally bumped and set to low or zero heat.
-RR
My husband “helped” do laundry this weekend and when I went to take the clothes out of the dryer the machine was overstuffed and of course nothing was dry and the lint filter was completely full of lint and dog hair. I broke the massive load into smaller loads, cleaned the filter and tried to dry them, but the dryer tumbles but no longer heats up. Where do you suggest I start looking to repair? We have a Roper dryer model RED4440VQ1. Thank you for your help.
Just wanted to say I found the problem with the Kenmore dryer that we bought used. (mentioned in the post above) There were no clogs(trust me we took everything apart and checked because everything we read said it must be a clog), but it still wasn’t getting any airflow. (No air was coming out of the air duct, none at all) It turns out on this model there is a metal piece that holds the BLOWER WHEEL in place, it came loose and that’s why we weren’t getting any air. We were able to repair it without even buying a part, but if it does need replaced we found them for $20-$40 (not bad at all in my opinion). If you think this may be your problem, you can search on YouTube and find out where the blower wheel is and how to fix it. Just wanted to post this for anyone who is looking for answers and unable to find them!
Clyvens,
What is the model number of your Frigidaire Dryer? Is there an error code? If so what is it?
-RR
My Frigidaire dryer when I push the dryness button it shows error but everything else works and I’m not getting any heat to dry the clothes any advise would help thanks…
Brady,
Is machine on level ground?
-RR
I have had machine open, I have personally replaced motor. Motor people stated that humming sound was classic motor switch going bad. cleaned inside, checked belt and pulley. all OK. Drum turns freely. Works at an alternate location.
Brady,
Humming sound would indicate something binding up or inop. Open machine and inspect.
-RR
Courtney,
Can you tell us your dryer make and model? You may just need a thermal fuse. Also, go to our washing machine repair question page and ask your question there for us to assist in helping you with your washer.
-RR
Where do I purchase a heating element? I think that’s what’s wrong with my dryer. It takes up to 7 times to dry 1 load of clothes. Lent trap is spotless and changed damn near every single time. Don’t want to scrap, trying to fix it because I can’t afford a new dryer right now. Let alone my stupid washer issues on top..but can someone help me figure out what wrong with my dryer?
Buzzing or should i say light hum sound. Only happens when start button is depressed and held down.
Brady,
Where EXACTLY is the buzzing coming from?
-RR
I have a crazy one for you! Admiral-W10185972. Would not start, heard buzzing sound. Replaced motor thinking may be bad motor switch, same buzzing result. Checked door switch, thermal fuse, thermostats, coil, wiring with meter, all OK. Took dryer to neighbors and plugged in, started and worked fine, returned back to condo and same buzzing symptom. Checked power at breaker, wall plug, back of dryer and meter showed 120 or so on each red and black leg with white neutral. Checked both legs together and meter showed 220 or so. Electrician checked out box and wiring, measured voltages and said dryer was getting appropriate voltage and should be working. Said he did not know. but was probably dryer problem. Not sure what to do now. Any ideas? Thanks.
Crista,
If the dryer is getting extremely hot, how are the clothes not drying? Can you explain further? How old is the dryer? You bought it used? When you say “hardly any air comes out”, where are you talking about? Also, what is the model number of your Kenmore Dryer?
-RR
Just got an older Kenmore electric dryer, last night it was working great but this morning we heard a “pop” and now it gets hot (I mean plenty hot) but clothes won’t dry. We opened it up and all of the vents are fine, but hardly any air comes out. I’m wondering if it could be an air intake problem? How do we troubleshoot for that?
if dryer heats for first 2mins then doesnt…replace gas valve coils after making sure your venting is clear.
My Whirlpool gas dryer WGD8300SW0 is not working. It started with just sensing and nothing else. drum would not turn or start. I replaced the belt and rollers, the machine control board, and the door switch. Dryer has been vacuumed out of all lint. Motor does not smell burnt. Ohm test on all parts tested fine. Dryer reassembled. Power works I hit start I get 3 beeps and the interior light in dryer stays continuously on. As best I can tell the door switch can only connect to one set of wires so I don’t think I have it holed wrong but I am not sure or could it be a short in a wire?? If so, can something like this be repaired? How can I go about testing the wires? Thank you for your assistance.
I have a 6yo electric Samsung dryer, model DV218aew/xaa that stopped heating. I’ve replaced the heating element, the fuse and the thermostat, as well as shop-vac the vent hose, all to no avail. All of the original parts were working fine, according to the multimeter. The drum turns, the control panel works. I hate the idea of a repairman coming in and working on it now that I’ve taken apart and put together the darn thing several times now and could probably fix it with some direction and guidance. Ideas?
I have a Kenmore 29 series gas dryer. I have continuity on both high limit and blower stat. Replaced exhaust hose and checked lint screen.Unit will heat its first time and shut flame off. you can see ignitor calling for heat but will not ignite after several tries. I am baffled as to what to look at next.
My dryer is spinning but it’s not drying my clothes.
I have a dryer that is about 5 years old. The heat runs on it full blast for about 2-3 minutes and then it cools down and runs basically on “air fluff” mode. I have taken the dryer apart and cleaned all areas and checked all traps and lines out of the back. Any ideas?
Sandy,
The vent behind your dryer could be clogged. If it is clogged, the moisture that is in your clothing cannot escape. Check your vent by removing the vent hose on the back of your dryer and be sure the hose or area in wall is not clogged. Unplug the dryer before doing any troubleshooting. If your vent is not clogged let us know and we can assist to troubleshoot further.
-RR
I have a GE front load gas dryer model DCVH515GWW. My dryer will not heat up, my clothes are not getting dry. I cleaned out the vent from lint. I’m not sure how to take the back off of dryer and check the thermostat.
Chris,
You may have a mass of lint in the dryer vent hose or in the wall. Be sure all this is clean so air can flow. If this is not the issue, you may have an issue with the thermal fuse, thermostats, wiring, or the elements. All of these parts can be tested with a multimeter to be sure they are in working order. Also, be sure the controls on the dryer are set to high heat. Experiment and change a few settings and see if it starts to heat.
-RR
Dee,
You may have an issue with the timer motor. This attached to the knob you turn to change settings. The timer is what controls the heat to the elements. If there is a bad spot on the timer, then the issue you are describing will occur. You can test it with a meter to be sure.
-RR
Cheryl,
Check the belt, motor, and pulley. Do you hear the motor running? If you turn the drum yourself with your hand, does it spin or is it locked up?
-RR
My dryer drys but does not spin anymore.
WHAT WOULD CAUSE MY CROSLEY DRYER TO HEAT CLOTHES ON ONE SETTING BUT NOT THE OTHER? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as this has become a very frustrating ordeal.
Our front load dryer is only 2 month’s old and has just started not drying clothes lint trap is clean what else could it be? The dryer is a Amana Tandem 7300.
well the dryer worked for about 6 loads and died …….no power now. im going to take the back off one more time and see whats what if its simple ill fix it if not then its scrap metal. and the washer is fine I took three loads today to the Laundromat and the dryers dried them fine.
John,
To be clear, your dryer does not heat until it has 20 minutes left in the drying cycle?
-RR
Bill,
If the clothes are HOT after 2 hours of drying but still damp, then your washing machine may not fully be draining and spinning properly leaving your clothes still full of water. This may or not be the case but we need to mention it as 2 hours in a dryer that heats and clothing is HOT indicates washer may not be spinning long enough to get water out of your clothing. Be sure your washer is working properly, if it is… Does your dryer have multiple elements? Have you tested them with a meter? Could there possibly be an issue with the dryer only turning heat on only at certain times indicating a control panel or board issue? Have you tested to be sure the dryer is constantly heating the complete 2 hours?
-RR
There is heat, its on high and the dryer is on one breaker. I have replaced parts 3977767 Thermostat, 3977393 thermal cut off, 3387134 Thermostat Internal−Bias, 3392519 Thermal Fuse and the dryer is going on 2hrs drying a load of jeans. The dryer is clean and lint free, the exhaust is short and unblocked and working well. The clothes are hot when you open the door like they should be but the clothes are still damp and it is tumbling …….. any clues????
My kenmore 11066662501 electric dryer burned heating element twice. I changed it both times and also decided to change all thermostats and put a new exhaust hose. My dryer runs fine but does not cycle off the heating element on time dry until it gets to 20 or 25 minutes left in the cycle. Then it cycles off and on fine. If I put it on 60 min time and have no clothes in it it cycles off after a couple minutes. Is this ok? I thought it should cycle off even with wet clothes in it before waiting until there is only 20-25 minutes left
Bill,
If ALL components have been tested and working, something must have been overlooked. Is the heat setting on HIGH? If you take the vent hose off, do you feel any heat at all coming out? Have you checked thermal fuse? Have you checked breaker to be sure dryer is not on 2 different breakers?
-RR
it is mod LSQ9010LW2 .I have checked everything with a meter it seems to be good unless I have done something wrong . I really could use your advice ….. thanks
Bill,
Dryer most likely has 2 thermostats. One is probably bad. Do you have a model number so we can research further?
-RR
I have a whirlpool dryer it gets hot and turns but clothes are still damp after a 120 min drying cycle. ive cleaned it and checked the vents still the same problem checked therm. on heater box with a meter and the coil all is good so what can it be.
I found out the problem with mine! Posting here so others may benefit from it.
I ordered new dryer and old one was hauled away. My new dryer didn’t heat up too!
The problem was not with the dryer but the electric wire….The voltages were not enough to heat up the element!
I figured this out when old one with absolutely no problem was gone!
Make sure you check for this :)
Thanks
Sarah
Stephan,
Be sure lint catch filter is clean. If lint screen and vent hose are clean and NOT blocked, then the issue probably is within your dryer. Are you sure your dryer is on the highest heat setting? If everything is as it should be, the first part to check is the thermal fuse on back. If the thermal fuse goes bad, the dryer will spin but will NOT provide any heat. The other parts that could be bad are the coils or thermostats.
-RR
My dryer is not drying clothes. I checked the dryer vent and hose and it is not clogged with lint. What else could be the issue?
RB,
We would suggest unplugging dryer, removing service panel, and visually inspect inside. You may see something burned or broken. If not you will have to test each component with a multimeter to determine which part is the faulty one.
-RR
I have a 5yo Front Loading Samsung DV328AEE/XAA and it has stopped heating. I have cleaned all lint related areas, help the button and tumbler has spun for more than 5 minutes with no heat. Research has shown me that it could be the coil, the thermostat or heating element. Is there a way that I can tell witch is the sulprit without ordering all 3 parts?
Please help.
Thank You
RB
Sarah,
Why did the technician not fully troubleshoot your dryer problem?
You need to test the timer in ohms. This will tell you if a particular part of the timer is bad. Set your ohmmeter to the Rx1 setting. A normal reading for a dryer timer is in the 2000 – 3000 ohms range. You should find the schematic for your dryer to find out any info that applies to your particular dryer. The schematic should tell you the proper resistance reading for your specific dryer timer motor. If the reading you get from testing your dryer timer’s motor is completely off from the 2000 – 3000 ohms range then replace the dryer timer motor. Replace just the motor itself and not the entire assembly as this will save you money.
-RR
Technician checked fuse and elements. To verify whether timer is a problem, I checked continuity in red and black wires of the timer. It doesn’t show continuity. Does this mean timer needs replacement? or there is easy/cheap way to fix it?
Thanks,
Sarah
Claudia,
Make sure lint filter clean. Make sure dryer is on high heat. Be sure the vent hose is clear. Check to see if another setting is set incorrectly. Possibly test thermostats with a multimeter.
-RR
Thanks. Everything has checked out ok but still not getting enough heat to dry a regular sized load. Any other suggestions?
Claudia,
Here is a video that will show how to test voltage on a dryer.
-RR
I have a roper electiric dryer model # REX4635EQ2 that is not drying enough since I changed it from a three prong to a 4 prong. I have checked the continuity on all parts and they are all showing continuity and I cleaned out the vents and the back of the machine. How do I check if the machine is getting the right voltage from the wall without electricuting myself :)
Sarah,
Your dryer has a thermal fuse. Did the technician check the fuse or any of the thermostats? If so, and they were all ok, then that may be the reason he suggested that the timer may be faulty. Make sure thermostat and fuse is ok, as these are relatively cheap parts compared to an expensive timer.
-RR
My 6 years old Fisher and Paykel electrical dryer (Model # DE 09 USO) stopped heating after I cleaned lint box! The drum rotates fines. I called the repair guy. He said he checked everything and seems like timer may be the problem but doesn’t guarantee that timer is the problem. Can you please guide me how do I check timer is a problem? Since timer is very expensive, if it is faulty I would have to buy a new unit and want to make sure before spending lots of money.
Darian,
Check to be sure the heat setting is set on high. If you just replaced the element, was the reason because it was bad or you just assumed that was the issue? The hose being off should not effect if your clothes dry. It would actually dry your clothes faster if the hose was off (since the heat would not have to be pushed many feet through the wall or ceiling) but it would heat the house and lint would get everywhere. Your new element may not be the exact replacement. This may be the reason your clothes are not drying as fast as before. Make sure the vent hose is attached, set the dryer on high setting and longest heat setting and see what happens. If you still have issues it may be a thermostat issue.
-RR
I have a frigidaire stackable, dryer heating fine but clothes kept coming out damp, also wouldnt collect lint. Checked the back of the dryer and the hose was off the connector on the back of the dryer. Got it back on. Could that be the reason my clothes werent drying. No lint caught in the hose.. hose was just disconnected off the back of the dryer. Also just replaced the heating element. Thanks!
Ryan,
First, make sure the vent hose is not being bent or crimped when the dryer is slid back into place. The shorter the hose the better. You may also need to check with the manufacturer of the dryer to see the specific specs on the blower. You can purchase another blower that may give you a better airflow output. But know this, if the vent hose is long and bent or has many twists and turns because of length, then the blower is having to work extra hard to actually PUSH the air out. And be absolute sure there is no blockage WHATSOEVER in the wall. Meaning lint or other objects. Any slight blockage will cause you issues as you have described. Let us know what you find and get back to us. ALSO… What brand and model dryer are you having issues with?
-RR
My dryer seems to have low air flow. I cleaned it of all lint inside and out, checked and cleaned the vent hose to the outside, but it still does not dry. It does heat, and I replaced the thermostat that is on the air exit from the machine just before the vent hose attaches, the one indicated and sold by the local appliance repair part dealer when I described my problem. It WILL dry fine if I disconnect the vent and allow it to blow air into the room, which should indicate a clogged vent hose or vent on the outside of the house, and obviously that line is blocking airflow enough to make the dryer not dry. BUT, is it possible that the blower is just not strong enough, that it is broken somehow? It should be able to push air out a ten foot length of cleaned hose right? I tested the flow by holding a paper towel to the intake on the inside of the drum with it running, and it was very weak, though stronger without the hose attached, but even then, only equal to our other dryer -the one in question is for our tenants-, which is connected with a similar length of hose. Thoughts? should I replace the corrugated hose with smooth metal? Is there something wrong with the blower? It’s not particularly noisy. Thank you for considering. -Ryan
Craven,
Have you cleaned lint filter, checked vent hose for clogs, inlet in wall, outlet behind dryer? Also make sure your temp setting is not accidentally set to low.
-RR
I have a Frigidaire stackable and the dryer is getting hot and spinning but wont dry until 3 spin cycles…what do I do?
Paul,
Does the high limit blow as soon as you turn the dryer on? Is something grounding out on the frame? Have you checked all wiring? If all that is good, have you removed the vent hose from the wall and see if that makes a difference just as a test?
-RR
So i have cleaned the vent from the back of the dryer to outside. replaced the heating element and all the fuses and still i am blowing one of the high limit fuses on the heating coil
Charles,
How many times did you use your dryer in the 3 weeks it worked after you replaced the thermostats? Be sure that the lint vent tube (and in the wall) is completely cleaned out of all lint buildup. Even if it looks clean, deep in the wall it may not be. Check to be sure the wiring/element is not grounding out and causing a short.
-RR
I have a Whirlpool Dryer GEQ9800LW1 ITS 1O years old, it recently stopped heating, but still tumbled, so after taking it apart, cleaning out a LOT of dust and debris, all the vents and exhaust pipes. I checked the:
Thermal fuse, checks ok,
The heating element, checks ok,
The thermostats, front one ok, rear one bad,
I replaced them both (thermostats fuses) and three weeks later its doing the same.. did the same checks.. and its the same one is out again… ideas???
Rob,
Instead of us giving paragraphs of advice, try this first… Remove the vent hose from the dryer and do a test run. If the dryer still takes forever to dry your clothes, then you will know the dryer itself is the problem. You may have a thermostat that is fluctuating or other temperature control issues. If the dryer does dry your clothing as it should, then you know you still have a major blockage in the wall or vent duct somewhere.
-RR
Pulled dryer out and cleaned the vent tube with drill duct brush. Dryer still taking 5-7 cycles to dry and the back of the dryer is very hot to the touch. Hoping to fix myself but don’t know where to turn next.
Kyle,
Sounds like you checked all the obvious signs of where the humming could be coming from. Could it actually just be the machine slightly vibrating or possibly a side panel vibration? For us not to be able to hear the sound we can only guess but could it be possibly a door issue? (Loose screws or door lock loose?) Where is the humming sound coming from exactly?
-RR
I have a Maytag Maxima model MED7000XW2 that’s 2 years old that has me puzzled. It started to make a humming noise about 15-20 mins into a cycle I shut it off for a min and turned it back on and all was fine. Then the next day I used it and it did the same thing but wouldn’t go away when shutting it off. later that day I used it and it never made the noise at all. Now today it made the noise louder yet after 20 mins of use and then after sitting for a while and continuing the load t went away again. I took the dryer apart earlier today and didn’t see anything wrong the belt looked good and all wheels and pullys spun good and no shaft play in the motor or blower, some light lint build up around the inside of the case but other then that no problems. What could be causing this humming noise? its not a screech just a loud noisy hum.
Nicole,
Basically a thermal fuse reacts to excessive temperature (not electrical current) but they shut off electrical power when they blow. Assuming you have no air blockage in your vents, the problem could be a defective heating element or the blower which pushes the hot air through the exhaust is bad. Have you checked both parts to be sure they are in proper working order?
Also a defective cycling thermostat can also cause the dryer to overheat if it does not turn off the heat at the proper temperature.
Heating element: Have you checked to make sure it is not touching some part of the assembly casing? You could unplug the dryer, remove the heater assembly and test it for continuity with an ohmmeter just to be sure.
Blower: You won’t feel much air coming from the vent outlet if the blower is bad.
-RR
Dryer works (tumbles) but will not heat. We replaced the thermal fuse and the dryer worked for about 30 minutes. We then replaced the thermal fuse and the thermistor and the dryer worked for 3 loads. The thermal fuse is not ohming out but now the thermistor is fine. All vents have been cleaned there are no obstructions. Everything is testing fine except for the thermal fuse. Wondering what should we do/test next. Considering ordering the hi limit thermostat along with the thermal fuse since I have read that it is recommended to replace with the thermal fuse. Please help – thanks!! Just in case this helps- dryer is 2 years old and the model # DLEX2655V.
Jessica,
Your dryer works (tumbles) but just will not heat? It is most likely your dryer is on a double breaker 110V each. One breaker is probably switched off. If your dryer is 220V then make sure both breakers are flipped ON if that applies to your situation. If this did not help please let know more detail about your situation. Make and model of your dryer.
-RR
My dryer stopped heating so I bought a new one still it want heat so I bought a new breaker and new wire Why won’t the brand new dryer heat either
Harish,
If you see smoke, that COULD mean that the element is just burning off any oils that are on it from production. This is your call but…. you could disassemble and be sure your element install is correct or call a technician as if something was wired wrong a fire could occur.
Is it possible the heating element is making contact with something? Insulation, wires, the housing?
-RR
Hi,
I have a 3 year old electric Samsung dryer and it stopped heating. I have replaced heating element(actually complete house) and kept the door open and hold button so that drum rotates. And as soon as I turn it on I smell some thing burning, is this because of new element? but worrying part is I can see smoke inside drum….. Is there some thing wrong, should I call a technician?
Thanks
Harish
Chris,
First, make sure there are not multiple heat settings on your controls. We have seen where a button is pressed to set the dryer to low heat. Check that first. Are you drying the clothes on a different cycle then before? Have you checked the gas valve to be sure it is working properly? Have you cleaned out the vents deep inside the walls? Is the lint screen clean and not damaged?
-RR
I have a gas speed queen dryer that runs fine but some of the clothes come out wet like jeans. I checked the vents and there clean checked and replaced both thermostat sensors and still clothes come out a little wet never had this problem before any ideas on what it may be
Doug,
Have you used a long bristle wand to clean deep into the vent behind the dryer? There could be a large build up of lint hidden within it. Also be sure the filter screen is clean and not damaged.
-RR
Our dryer turns, heats but doesn’t dry very well..we just cleaned out the back and put in a new vent, but still not drying well. Any clues as to what else to look for or is it time for a new dryer?
Autumn,
Either the THERMAL FUSE or the THERMOSTAT(S) is on the fritz. You can test them with a multimeter to see if they are working properly. Those 2 parts are very common and are available on Amazon under the “Appliance replacement parts” category.
If you have more info for us, please let us know and we can continue to further troubleshoot.
-RR
Hello-
My frigidaire electric dryer started making a humming noise 2 days ago, but it was still tumbling and drying the clothes. Yesterday it stopped heating but continued to tumble. Now it will tumble for about 10 minutes without heating and then shut itself off.
Josh,
Your dryer timer more than likely needs to be replaced. Test and see if the timer is supplying power to the heater element on timed dry mode. If the timer is not sending power, it will need to be replaced. You can test the timer with a multimeter. You could chance it and just purchase a new timer as that is really the only thing that supplies power to the heating element.
-RR
My whirlpool dryer will heat up on certain settings but not on others such as timed dry. The dryer barrel turns but doesn’t always get heat. There are no clogs as far as I can see.
Dan,
Best thing to do is open the machine up on the back and do a visual sweep to possibly find an obvious issue. If the filter needs cleaned after each drying load, that is normal but having a large amount of lint will depend on what you are drying.
-RR
I have a dryer that is not completely drying medium load and the vent fiters are needing to be cleaned after almost every cycle !!! Any sugesstions ????
Thanks for your suggestion and sorry for my delay in getting back to you.
It’s not that sort of fitting but like this one – – http://www.tdspares.co.uk/sites/default/files/prodimages/vnt1010.jpg
The problem is the right hand end which doesn’t seem to have a way of keeping the tube attached to the plastic, especially as the hose shrinks slightly with the heat.
Yesterday I put a wire ‘cage’ inside the hose to support it and try to keep it in place, so far so good but seems a poor design, unless I’m still missing something obvious which I surely must be !
I have tested all the thermostats, clycling & high heat. Unfortunately my dryer does not have a choice of temperature settings. There is not an external temperature selector that I can test. My dryer is a 110.96512200 Kenmore. I was wondering if the timer might be going bad. Unfortunately it is not sold at Sears parts anymore. The dryer is about 21 years old. One thing that I noticed is that the wires that lead up to the thermal cutoff fuse on the heater box are charred and look almost fried. Not sure how that happened so as a last ditched effort I’m going to cut them back to good wire and put new terminals on them and see if that helps. If that doesn’t work I’m not sure what to do next.
Ivan,
Heating elements can be tricky depending on age and type we just wanted to be sure it showed continuity. Anyway….. Does your dryer have a choice of temp settings? If so then there are separate thermostats used for each setting. Have you made certain to test and troubleshoot the multiple thermostats? The selector switch or timer control routes the circuit through to the appropriate thermostat so maybe one of them are bad or on the fritz. A thermostat should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature. Hope that may help a little! Let us know!
-RR
Thanks for your reply RR, I removed the heater element from the heater box and when I tested the resistance on the two terminals it measured 0 OHMS. Why is a reading of 0 OHMS bad for a heater element when it still shows continuity?
Ivan
Hi Ivan,
Sounds like your dryer is making your like hell….. Anyway, if your heating element is reading continuity of 0 ohms then it’s bad. Did you have it installed in the dryer when you checked for continuity or did you remove the element first? See here…………….
-RR
My dryer has proven to be very frustrating to repair. The dryer stopped heating and I saw that the Thermal Cutoff Fuse on the upper part of my heating element box was blown. I went to sears and purchased another and replaced that along with the high heat thermometer and the Thermal Cutoff Fuse blew again.
At this point I have done all of the following to try to find out why the fuse keeps blowing.
1. I removed the blower housing and saw that is was 2/3’s clogged right in front of the blower wheel. I cleared it and washed everything so that even inside was clean. Have really good airflow now.
2. I checked my exhaust duct and there were not blockages. It has been working just fine for almost a year now with the two bends in it. So that is not the problem.
3. I checked my cycling thermostat on lint chute/blowing housing which is rated for 150 degrees. I placed it on a griddle and at 150 degrees it disengaged. Then when it cooled back down it allowed electrical flow. I did this twice and it worked well. I checked the electrical flow using a multi-tester. So that is not the problem.
4. I checked the thermal fuse on my blower housing/lint chute and it was still intact. This was located directly above my cycling thermostat.
5. I started to wonder if my heating elements themselves were bad. I did a Ohms test using an analog multi-tester on the heating element terminals just to make sure they were still all in one piece. The test showed continuity, 0 ohms to be exact. I then tested to see if the heating elements had been grounded by touching the outside of the heating box with one lead on the outside of my heater box and the other lead to each of the two terminals (one at a time) . There was infinity resistance so my coils aren’t grounded. At that point I took the heater box off the dyer to visually inspect the elements and everything look good. Nothing was worn down.
6. I checked my drum seal to see if it might be allowing air to get sucked in bypassing the heater box. It still fit nicely and was tight all the way around.
After trying all of those steps I purchased another Thermal Cutoff Fuse and it also blew. I’m very frustrated and we are tired of running back and forth to the laundry mat.
There is no external temperature switch for me to check on this model dryer and now I am lost as to what to look for next.
Can anyone think of anything else that might be causing my dryer to overheat to the point where the thermal fuse on my heater box keeps blowing?
Thanks,
Ivan
Hi Liz,
Sounds like you need the tension clamps for your dryer hose. Have a look at this dryer vent hose with clamps picture and if that is the type of hose you have then you need the retaining rings. If you already have them then you may not have them on correctly.
-RR
The vent hose on my tumbler needed replacing ( was torn ) but I seem to be doing something wrong as the hose is not staying attached inside the machine.
It worked for a few weeks but re-did it yesterday and it’s off again already this morning.Other than that,machine is working well.
It’s a White Knight 447 if that’s relevant :)
Realise I can’t glue the hose on ( !! ) but what can I try – any advice please?
Hi Caroline,
Have you checked the Thermal Fuse for continuity?
-RR
I have a whirlpool electric front load dryer that is not heating up or drying the clothes. I have recently replaced the thermostat and the heating coil. The dryer vent on the dryer has been cleaned out, the hose is not clogged up and the hose exhaust unit is cleaned out. The power plug is plugged in to a 220 outlet.In-fact i haven’t put the hose back on the dryer after repairing each item. I plug it in and try the power button options and have tried several positions on the controls but it puts out no warm air. So it is still not heating up? Just blows cold air. The drum will turn and everything else seems to work. Whirlpool mod wed5100sq0 ser mu3149454
Hi Sherwin,
Make and model of your dryer?
The drum will not turn by hand or while it is powered?
Does the dryer make a humming noise, can you hear the motor?
If you are trying to run your dryer and the drum will not turn, then a broken belt is the most likely problem.
-RR
The drum on the dryer doesnt turn. What are my options?
Hi Mokang,
Having a clogged air duct hose/vent can cause your dryer to overheat. However the thermal fuse should blow if this is the case. It may be possible that the issue (before the technician came out) was a clogged vent, therefore the thermal fuse blew. Now the vent is still clogged and quit possibly the thermal fuse will blow again.
OR
There is a thermostat in your dryer that monitors the temperature in the blower and turns the heating element (or gas burner) on and off as needed to keep the proper temperature. If the thermostat is at fault and can’t sense the air temperature, the heating element (or gas burner) can stay energized too long. This can create a temperature that is unsafe in the drum. So it may be possible the thermostat is at fault.
OR
The wrong thermal fuse could have been installed and it is not blowing (tripping) when the temperature gets too high.
-RR
Hi, I just had my dryer fixed…it just didn’t work. When the technician came, he replaced the thermal fuse. I was using it after he left, when the full cycle was done and I was taking the clothes out, the outside of the dryer was too hot and even the clothes are too hot to touch. What would be the problem this time of the dryer?
Hi David,
Are you able to tell if the dryer is heating up? It may be that the High Limit Thermostat has tripped and the dryer is not heating. The dryer may be able to slightly dry your clothes from just the “tumbling” action. You can open up the back panel and see if you can locate the thermostat that may be resettable. There could also be a number of other problems but the thermostat or thermal fuse is most likely causing your issue.
A ventless dryer can take a long time to dry your clothing. Some ventless dryers may take between 2 and 4 hours to dry a half load of clothes. If you have a full load of clothes you are trying to dry, remove 50% of the clothing to assist the limit of the dryers drying capability.
-RR
Hi there, I have an United UDR 4767D dryer that won’t dry. I have opened it up and took out a lot of lint, basically teared it down and vacuumed almost everything, he’s heating normally and the drum spins, I assure you that there is no lint anywhere. I even took the motor from the housing and checked there for lint, but there wasn’t any. I screwed it right together but still not as dry as I want, it’s pretty damp even after 120 minutes.
By the way it’s an ventless dryer
Hi David,
We would need the brand and model number so we know the exact components that may be malfunctioning. However… We would suggest removing power, removing the service access panel and have a look inside. Inspect for anything that may be burned, clogged, or loose. If there is hot air coming from the back of the dryer, then this sounds as if something is blocked internally. There may be a massive buildup of lint on the inside frame that is somehow redirecting or reducing the heat needed to dry your clothing.
-RR
Hello,
I rent a house where the washer and electric dryer are both outside under a covered area. There is no exhaust hose attached to the dryer. There doesn’t seem to be much heat build in the dryer. In fact, it feels like the clothes only get dry through their constant movement in the drum and what little warm air is inside the drum. However, when I put my hand up to the exhaust vent (back of the dryer, in the center at the bottom) the air coming out feels a lot hotter than what is in the drum. How can I have warm air in the drum yet very hot air coming out of the exhaust vent? Thx for your response. Great site!
Hi Lisa,
Having read the description of your problem, the obvious problem sounds to be a clogged vent hose or massive lint buildup in the wall (or roof area). If you had repair technicians testing your machine, they more than likely checked this. However there is no other explanation for the dryer to work perfectly when the vent hose is off. The machine is designed to shut off heat if it senses an air vent blockage to prevent fire. We would suggest to inspect the vent hose for any blockage. Once you determine it is free of obstructions, use a hand wand vacuum and get out as much lint from the wall (or the roof area where the hose vents out) as possible. If you have heavy lint buildup in the wall, you may need to hire a company who specializes in clearing this. As for the hose needing to be 3 feet max, we have heard this but have seen much longer vent hoses on dryers. A vent hose at 20 feet does sound very long. However if the hose is free from blockage and in a straight enough line, you should be able to use the dryer as normal.
-RR
I have a 4 year old Samsung front loader washer and dryer. We moved into a new house one year ago and dryer has not worked the same. We have no basement so the vent goes up the wall out of the roof of house, about 20 feet. 2 repair men came out and said that the newer front loaders can not have a hose longer than 3 feet max for the vent. I am amazed, what do people in condos do with their dryers? My options are to move the dryer to another room, which is almost impossible, or have hose go under house into crawl space. About 3 feet down. Not sure how safe that is. Can you help me out here, I am out of options. Motor coils everything else is working fine on dryer.. When they tested it, when hose was on, it heated only to about 50 degrees for 17 seconds, then shut off. When they took hose off, it heated to 152 degrees for over 2 minutes…..I am out of options at this point. Please help.
Hi Latoya,
We are assuming your dryer tumbles but does not heat. This could be that your dryer is 220V and the secondary breaker is off. Check the breakers to make sure they are on. Also, your dryer MAY have a thermal fuse that blew. If this is the case then the dryer will not heat. The way to test the fuse is to check with a multimeter for continuity. Another issue or the cause of this problem could be that the vent pipe is blocked by lint. Make sure there is nothing blocking the vent pipe. If after making sure the above scenarios are not the cause, please let us know your model number and brand of dryer for us to troubleshoot further.
-RR
My dryer is electric.. i replaced the burned out element and the temperature switch was replaced. something is not allowing the new element to heat up.. PLEASE HELP!
Andrew,
Usually we would say to check continuity in the thermal fuse and thermostats, but since the problem is intermittent, it could be a few different things.
The most likely part that is creating the intermittent heating issue is the gas valve solenoid. This valve or valves are electric solenoids. The solenoid opens the valve for the gas to flow into the burner. If the dryer doesn’t heat or heats intermittent, the solenoid may be at fault. You can check the solenoids with a multimeter to find out if they are causing the issue.
Another part that may be on the fritz is the flame sensor. A gas dryer has a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer has heating issues, the flame sensor might be defective. The way to check this is to test the sensor for continuity.
You may also want to remove the control panel and make sure there are no burned areas on the back where the controls are located.
-RR
Unfortunately, no. I looked at the dryer exhaust pipe and the vent hose, both are ~95% clear. I was actually surprised by how little lint was in the hose. I guess the lint screen does a really good job. Just to be thorough, I also checked the external vent and the airflow seems to be unrestricted all the way out of the house.
Andrew,
Since there is no error code, a very common problem with a dryer heating intermittently is a clogged venting system. You may have a restricted exhaust vent which will cause the dryer to run normally but not always heat up. We recommend to remove the vent hose from the wall and see if it may be clogged with so much lint that it is not possible to vent. If this is not your issue, let us know and we will respond back with what to try next…
-RR
No error code, apparently the dryer thinks its working just fine. The Model # is GGW9260PW0.
Andrew,
Is your gas dryer giving you any type of error code? We will need the model number of your Whirlpool gas dryer to look into your issue further.
-RR
Hi, I have a Whirlpool “duet Electronic Gas dryer” and I’m trying to figure out if its worth calling a repairman, working on it myself, or just replacing. The dryer will turn on and and the drum spins just fine, but on certain presets the unit will not heat. That’s the part that boggles my mind. On some settings it heats up, and on others it doesn’t. It would make more sense if the working/nonworking settings were 100% consistent, but I don’t think they are. Any help is much appreciated!
Hi Jenny,
Since you have already replaced the majority of parts that would cause your dryer to not heat… Visually inspect the exterior wiring to the dryer. Check the service cord prongs that plug into the wall for burn marks and check where the service cord hooks to the terminal block on the back of dryer. Also, perform an extensive visual check inside your dryer to be sure there are no burnt or frayed wires. One broken connection can allow the dryer drum and timer to operate properly but there will be no heat.
Do you have a multimeter? With your dryer unplugged ohm out the heater and thermostat. Ohm meter check the timer points. Ohm meter check the motor switch. Ohm meter check for open wires or look for burnt wires. Performing this should tell you where the fault is located.
-RR
Hello, my dryer stopped producing heat, yet still turns. I have replaced the heating element, thermostat and thermal fuse. Cleaned out the lint trap, exhaust hose and the internal exhaust duct. What else should I consider before calling a repair person? I am in need of a quick fix, but would prefer to do it myself.
Hi Everardo,
If your dryer runs (drum turns) but the dryer is not producing heat, the most likely part that is at fault is the dryer thermal fuse. If you have a meter you can test it. If not, it is a very cheap part and can be found online for around $10 dollars. Here is our Dryer Fuse Replacement Repair Guide. Have a look and hopefully this will fix your clothes dryer.
-RR
Hello. I have tried the trouble shooting tips for a dryer that doesn’t dry but to no avail. I have suspicion that it might be a heating element any tips or advice?
My Kenmore 90 series electric dryer spins but gives out no heat. Opened and took the drum out, the whole housing looked like it had an insulation material from all the lint. I’m hesitant to put it back together, in case I need to open it again if it still does not work after cleaning.
What else could I check while the dryer is open?
Hi Ray,
Try setting the HEAT TEMP to a lower setting. If the temperature setting is not working properly then there is a fault in the switch or control board. Try changing different settings to see if that will reduce heat. If all else fails, take the clothes out of the dryer earlier than normal to avoid overheating.
-RR
I have an electric dryer which is running too hot. The vent is clear, but the clothes are coming out too hot to handle.