How To Fix A Clothes Dryer That Is Not Heating Or Drying Your Clothing

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If your old or new front or top loading dryer is all of a sudden not drying your clothes, then we have a few simple DIY fix tips you can try yourself. If the dryer is no longer drying your clothes then the first thing to do is to check and clean the dryer lint filter trap. We were forced to add that as our first step as there really are some people who do not realize there is a LINT FILTER that must be cleaned before or after each use. Once that is cleaned out, check if the dryer is still NOT drying your clothes. If that was NOT the cause of the problem, then you will need to inspect the vent hose on the back of the dryer. Commonly this HOT AIR VENT HOSE will become clogged, caked or full of lint that is constantly being removed from your clothing when drying. When this happens your dryer is unable to expel the hot air from within, therefore making it impossible for your dryer to actually dry your clothing in a timely manner or at all.

dryer not dryingThe most common causes for an electric or gas dryer to stop drying or heating is:
1. The dryer lint screen (lint trap) has not been cleaned (poor or restricted airflow).
2. A clogged or kinked (bent) dryer air vent hose (inadequate or no airflow).
3. Drum has stopped turning, broken drum drive belt.
4. Overheated or bad motor (possible thermal overload).
5. Thermal fuse or thermostat (could be caused from dryer air vent hose lint buildup)
6. Heating element burnt out.
7. Loose electrical plug or power socket.
8. Other mechanical issue, fault or malfunction.

Click here for a faster way to troubleshoot your dryer not heating

If your clothes dryer is taking forever to dry your clothes or it is not drying your clothing at all (and you already thoroughly cleaned the lint filter screen), then the first step is to CLEAN OUT THE INSIDE OF THE DRYER VENT HOSE. First, unplug your dryer from the electrical socket on the wall. Slide the dryer forward very carefully so you can get behind it. Locate the (usually silver colored) air vent hose, and remove it from the wall and the dryer (2 connection points). Do this by squeezing the clip at both ends and pulling the hose outward. Using a long dryer vent brush or similar, clean out the inside of the air vent hose by removing all of the built up lint and dust looking material. Clean the area on the back of the dryer and the hole in the wall where the air is vented out. Most of the time the lint will be built up in both of these areas. Once all of the lint is cleaned out, reattach the vent hose and slide the dryer back in place. Make sure you DO NOT KINK the vent hose when repositioning the dryer as this will cause the dryer to NOT expel the hot air properly. If you kink the hose the dryer will not function properly and your clothes will take forever to dry. Next, plug the dryer back into the power outlet and run a test. If your dryer is now heating and properly drying your clothes then you fixed the problem. If not, read on…

dryer vent filled with lintHere is how much lint that can become stuck in your dryer vent hose.
This much lint in the hose or in the wall, will prevent your dryer from properly drying your clothes.

dryer vent hoseDO NOT LET THIS HAPPEN! Dryer air vent hose clogged with lint.
Clean your dryer AIR VENTING HOSE on a yearly basis!
It is the reason your dryer takes forever to dry AND can be a fire safety hazard!

At times your dryer can overheat and this can cause the motor that turns the drum to stop working temporarily. There is a safety mechanism built into the motor that makes it stop working if it gets too hot. This is called a thermally protected motor. Your dryer may seem to be running but the motor will not be turning the drum. If the drum is not turning then the clothes are not moving. Therefore they can not get DRY. So if your dryer motor is NOT turning on but the rest of the dryer works, such as the lights and other mechanical parts, then your motor is probably overheated. For this, you need to just give the motor some time to cool down. If you suspect that this is your problem then give the dryer about an hour to cool down and run a test after that. If your motor has overheated then you may be overloading your dryer with too many clothes. Try running the dryer with less clothes in it the next time you dry a load and this should remedy the issue.

The solutions above are the most common causes for this specific malfunction. If the explanations above have not been your specific problem, then there can be a number of things wrong. If you feel comfortable you can remove the front panel of your dryer (while unplugged) and look to see if there are any obvious causes of the problem. A possible loose wire, loose part, burnt area, pieces of the dryer that have come off, fried or burned mechanical switches, etc. If the problem is not visual and you do not know what the issue can be, we recommend going here and posting a question to online appliance repair technicians. If all else fails then simply leave a comment or question below and we PROMISE to answer your question in a timely manner.

Other components that could be at fault would be the Thermal fuse, Thermal cutoff, Heating element, Operating thermostat, and High limit thermostat. You can check all of these for continuity with a multimeter. If any are determined bad, remove and replace.

Basic Clothes Dryer FunctionHow Does It Work? Basic Clothes Dryer Function

Dryer Parts SchematicDryer Parts Schematic Parts Location Diagram Chart

If you still need help, assistance, or answers to fix your Dryer Not Heating problem, ask the
experts over at Appliance Repair Questions for free answers to fix your broken appliance!

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{ 73 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Ray January 5, 2014 at 9:20 pm

I have an electric dryer which is running too hot. The vent is clear, but the clothes are coming out too hot to handle.

2 DIY Project Help Tips January 12, 2014 at 8:33 pm

Hi Ray,
Try setting the HEAT TEMP to a lower setting. If the temperature setting is not working properly then there is a fault in the switch or control board. Try changing different settings to see if that will reduce heat. If all else fails, take the clothes out of the dryer earlier than normal to avoid overheating.

3 Carmelita Valera February 24, 2014 at 7:28 pm

My Kenmore 90 series electric dryer spins but gives out no heat. Opened and took the drum out, the whole housing looked like it had an insulation material from all the lint. I’m hesitant to put it back together, in case I need to open it again if it still does not work after cleaning.
What else could I check while the dryer is open?

4 everardo September 5, 2014 at 3:45 pm

Hello. I have tried the trouble shooting tips for a dryer that doesn’t dry but to no avail. I have suspicion that it might be a heating element any tips or advice?

5 DIY Project Help Tips September 5, 2014 at 7:10 pm

Hi Everardo,
If your dryer runs (drum turns) but the dryer is not producing heat, the most likely part that is at fault is the dryer thermal fuse. If you have a meter you can test it. If not, it is a very cheap part and can be found online for around $10 dollars. Here is our Dryer Fuse Replacement Repair Guide. Have a look and hopefully this will fix your clothes dryer.

6 Jenny September 19, 2014 at 3:46 pm

Hello, my dryer stopped producing heat, yet still turns. I have replaced the heating element, thermostat and thermal fuse. Cleaned out the lint trap, exhaust hose and the internal exhaust duct. What else should I consider before calling a repair person? I am in need of a quick fix, but would prefer to do it myself.

7 DIY Project Help Tips September 19, 2014 at 6:56 pm

Hi Jenny,
Since you have already replaced the majority of parts that would cause your dryer to not heat… Visually inspect the exterior wiring to the dryer. Check the service cord prongs that plug into the wall for burn marks and check where the service cord hooks to the terminal block on the back of dryer. Also, perform an extensive visual check inside your dryer to be sure there are no burnt or frayed wires. One broken connection can allow the dryer drum and timer to operate properly but there will be no heat.

Do you have a multimeter? With your dryer unplugged ohm out the heater and thermostat. Ohm meter check the timer points. Ohm meter check the motor switch. Ohm meter check for open wires or look for burnt wires. Performing this should tell you where the fault is located.

8 Andrew September 29, 2014 at 6:09 pm

Hi, I have a Whirlpool “duet Electronic Gas dryer” and I’m trying to figure out if its worth calling a repairman, working on it myself, or just replacing. The dryer will turn on and and the drum spins just fine, but on certain presets the unit will not heat. That’s the part that boggles my mind. On some settings it heats up, and on others it doesn’t. It would make more sense if the working/nonworking settings were 100% consistent, but I don’t think they are. Any help is much appreciated!

9 DIY Project Help Tips September 29, 2014 at 6:53 pm

Is your gas dryer giving you any type of error code? We will need the model number of your Whirlpool gas dryer to look into your issue further.

10 Andrew September 29, 2014 at 9:33 pm

No error code, apparently the dryer thinks its working just fine. The Model # is GGW9260PW0.

11 DIY Project Help Tips September 29, 2014 at 9:47 pm

Since there is no error code, a very common problem with a dryer heating intermittently is a clogged venting system. You may have a restricted exhaust vent which will cause the dryer to run normally but not always heat up. We recommend to remove the vent hose from the wall and see if it may be clogged with so much lint that it is not possible to vent. If this is not your issue, let us know and we will respond back with what to try next…

12 Andrew September 30, 2014 at 2:32 am

Unfortunately, no. I looked at the dryer exhaust pipe and the vent hose, both are ~95% clear. I was actually surprised by how little lint was in the hose. I guess the lint screen does a really good job. Just to be thorough, I also checked the external vent and the airflow seems to be unrestricted all the way out of the house.

13 DIY Project Help Tips September 30, 2014 at 6:48 pm

Usually we would say to check continuity in the thermal fuse and thermostats, but since the problem is intermittent, it could be a few different things.

The most likely part that is creating the intermittent heating issue is the gas valve solenoid. This valve or valves are electric solenoids. The solenoid opens the valve for the gas to flow into the burner. If the dryer doesn’t heat or heats intermittent, the solenoid may be at fault. You can check the solenoids with a multimeter to find out if they are causing the issue.

Another part that may be on the fritz is the flame sensor. A gas dryer has a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer has heating issues, the flame sensor might be defective. The way to check this is to test the sensor for continuity.

You may also want to remove the control panel and make sure there are no burned areas on the back where the controls are located.

14 Latoya October 7, 2014 at 10:04 pm

My dryer is electric.. i replaced the burned out element and the temperature switch was replaced. something is not allowing the new element to heat up.. PLEASE HELP!

15 DIY Project Help Tips October 7, 2014 at 10:21 pm

Hi Latoya,
We are assuming your dryer tumbles but does not heat. This could be that your dryer is 220V and the secondary breaker is off. Check the breakers to make sure they are on. Also, your dryer MAY have a thermal fuse that blew. If this is the case then the dryer will not heat. The way to test the fuse is to check with a multimeter for continuity. Another issue or the cause of this problem could be that the vent pipe is blocked by lint. Make sure there is nothing blocking the vent pipe. If after making sure the above scenarios are not the cause, please let us know your model number and brand of dryer for us to troubleshoot further.

16 Lisa October 15, 2014 at 1:53 am

I have a 4 year old Samsung front loader washer and dryer. We moved into a new house one year ago and dryer has not worked the same. We have no basement so the vent goes up the wall out of the roof of house, about 20 feet. 2 repair men came out and said that the newer front loaders can not have a hose longer than 3 feet max for the vent. I am amazed, what do people in condos do with their dryers? My options are to move the dryer to another room, which is almost impossible, or have hose go under house into crawl space. About 3 feet down. Not sure how safe that is. Can you help me out here, I am out of options. Motor coils everything else is working fine on dryer.. When they tested it, when hose was on, it heated only to about 50 degrees for 17 seconds, then shut off. When they took hose off, it heated to 152 degrees for over 2 minutes…..I am out of options at this point. Please help.

17 DIY Project Help Tips October 15, 2014 at 9:57 pm

Hi Lisa,
Having read the description of your problem, the obvious problem sounds to be a clogged vent hose or massive lint buildup in the wall (or roof area). If you had repair technicians testing your machine, they more than likely checked this. However there is no other explanation for the dryer to work perfectly when the vent hose is off. The machine is designed to shut off heat if it senses an air vent blockage to prevent fire. We would suggest to inspect the vent hose for any blockage. Once you determine it is free of obstructions, use a hand wand vacuum and get out as much lint from the wall (or the roof area where the hose vents out) as possible. If you have heavy lint buildup in the wall, you may need to hire a company who specializes in clearing this. As for the hose needing to be 3 feet max, we have heard this but have seen much longer vent hoses on dryers. A vent hose at 20 feet does sound very long. However if the hose is free from blockage and in a straight enough line, you should be able to use the dryer as normal.

18 David October 17, 2014 at 2:19 am


I rent a house where the washer and electric dryer are both outside under a covered area. There is no exhaust hose attached to the dryer. There doesn’t seem to be much heat build in the dryer. In fact, it feels like the clothes only get dry through their constant movement in the drum and what little warm air is inside the drum. However, when I put my hand up to the exhaust vent (back of the dryer, in the center at the bottom) the air coming out feels a lot hotter than what is in the drum. How can I have warm air in the drum yet very hot air coming out of the exhaust vent? Thx for your response. Great site!

19 DIY Project Help Tips October 17, 2014 at 2:31 am

Hi David,
We would need the brand and model number so we know the exact components that may be malfunctioning. However… We would suggest removing power, removing the service access panel and have a look inside. Inspect for anything that may be burned, clogged, or loose. If there is hot air coming from the back of the dryer, then this sounds as if something is blocked internally. There may be a massive buildup of lint on the inside frame that is somehow redirecting or reducing the heat needed to dry your clothing.

20 David Hannes October 19, 2014 at 10:08 pm

Hi there, I have an United UDR 4767D dryer that won’t dry. I have opened it up and took out a lot of lint, basically teared it down and vacuumed almost everything, he’s heating normally and the drum spins, I assure you that there is no lint anywhere. I even took the motor from the housing and checked there for lint, but there wasn’t any. I screwed it right together but still not as dry as I want, it’s pretty damp even after 120 minutes.
By the way it’s an ventless dryer

21 DIY Project Help Tips October 20, 2014 at 8:44 pm

Hi David,
Are you able to tell if the dryer is heating up? It may be that the High Limit Thermostat has tripped and the dryer is not heating. The dryer may be able to slightly dry your clothes from just the “tumbling” action. You can open up the back panel and see if you can locate the thermostat that may be resettable. There could also be a number of other problems but the thermostat or thermal fuse is most likely causing your issue.

A ventless dryer can take a long time to dry your clothing. Some ventless dryers may take between 2 and 4 hours to dry a half load of clothes. If you have a full load of clothes you are trying to dry, remove 50% of the clothing to assist the limit of the dryers drying capability.

22 mokang October 21, 2014 at 3:16 am

Hi, I just had my dryer fixed…it just didn’t work. When the technician came, he replaced the thermal fuse. I was using it after he left, when the full cycle was done and I was taking the clothes out, the outside of the dryer was too hot and even the clothes are too hot to touch. What would be the problem this time of the dryer?

23 DIY Project Help Tips October 21, 2014 at 4:12 am

Hi Mokang,
Having a clogged air duct hose/vent can cause your dryer to overheat. However the thermal fuse should blow if this is the case. It may be possible that the issue (before the technician came out) was a clogged vent, therefore the thermal fuse blew. Now the vent is still clogged and quit possibly the thermal fuse will blow again.
There is a thermostat in your dryer that monitors the temperature in the blower and turns the heating element (or gas burner) on and off as needed to keep the proper temperature. If the thermostat is at fault and can’t sense the air temperature, the heating element (or gas burner) can stay energized too long. This can create a temperature that is unsafe in the drum. So it may be possible the thermostat is at fault.
The wrong thermal fuse could have been installed and it is not blowing (tripping) when the temperature gets too high.

24 sherwin October 29, 2014 at 3:59 pm

The drum on the dryer doesnt turn. What are my options?

25 DIY Project Help Tips October 29, 2014 at 4:10 pm

Hi Sherwin,
Make and model of your dryer?
The drum will not turn by hand or while it is powered?
Does the dryer make a humming noise, can you hear the motor?
If you are trying to run your dryer and the drum will not turn, then a broken belt is the most likely problem.

26 Caroline November 6, 2014 at 6:14 pm

I have a whirlpool electric front load dryer that is not heating up or drying the clothes. I have recently replaced the thermostat and the heating coil. The dryer vent on the dryer has been cleaned out, the hose is not clogged up and the hose exhaust unit is cleaned out. The power plug is plugged in to a 220 outlet.In-fact i haven’t put the hose back on the dryer after repairing each item. I plug it in and try the power button options and have tried several positions on the controls but it puts out no warm air. So it is still not heating up? Just blows cold air. The drum will turn and everything else seems to work. Whirlpool mod wed5100sq0 ser mu3149454

27 DIY Project Help Tips November 6, 2014 at 9:54 pm

Hi Caroline,
Have you checked the Thermal Fuse for continuity?

28 Liz November 13, 2014 at 5:59 pm

The vent hose on my tumbler needed replacing ( was torn ) but I seem to be doing something wrong as the hose is not staying attached inside the machine.

It worked for a few weeks but re-did it yesterday and it’s off again already this morning.Other than that,machine is working well.

It’s a White Knight 447 if that’s relevant :)

Realise I can’t glue the hose on ( !! ) but what can I try – any advice please?

29 DIY Project Help Tips November 13, 2014 at 6:13 pm

Hi Liz,
Sounds like you need the tension clamps for your dryer hose. Have a look at this dryer vent hose with clamps picture and if that is the type of hose you have then you need the retaining rings. If you already have them then you may not have them on correctly.

30 Ivan Watkins November 14, 2014 at 9:12 pm

My dryer has proven to be very frustrating to repair. The dryer stopped heating and I saw that the Thermal Cutoff Fuse on the upper part of my heating element box was blown. I went to sears and purchased another and replaced that along with the high heat thermometer and the Thermal Cutoff Fuse blew again.

At this point I have done all of the following to try to find out why the fuse keeps blowing.

1. I removed the blower housing and saw that is was 2/3’s clogged right in front of the blower wheel. I cleared it and washed everything so that even inside was clean. Have really good airflow now.

2. I checked my exhaust duct and there were not blockages. It has been working just fine for almost a year now with the two bends in it. So that is not the problem.

3. I checked my cycling thermostat on lint chute/blowing housing which is rated for 150 degrees. I placed it on a griddle and at 150 degrees it disengaged. Then when it cooled back down it allowed electrical flow. I did this twice and it worked well. I checked the electrical flow using a multi-tester. So that is not the problem.

4. I checked the thermal fuse on my blower housing/lint chute and it was still intact. This was located directly above my cycling thermostat.

5. I started to wonder if my heating elements themselves were bad. I did a Ohms test using an analog multi-tester on the heating element terminals just to make sure they were still all in one piece. The test showed continuity, 0 ohms to be exact. I then tested to see if the heating elements had been grounded by touching the outside of the heating box with one lead on the outside of my heater box and the other lead to each of the two terminals (one at a time) . There was infinity resistance so my coils aren’t grounded. At that point I took the heater box off the dyer to visually inspect the elements and everything look good. Nothing was worn down.

6. I checked my drum seal to see if it might be allowing air to get sucked in bypassing the heater box. It still fit nicely and was tight all the way around.

After trying all of those steps I purchased another Thermal Cutoff Fuse and it also blew. I’m very frustrated and we are tired of running back and forth to the laundry mat.

There is no external temperature switch for me to check on this model dryer and now I am lost as to what to look for next.

Can anyone think of anything else that might be causing my dryer to overheat to the point where the thermal fuse on my heater box keeps blowing?


31 DIY Project Help Tips November 14, 2014 at 9:53 pm

Hi Ivan,
Sounds like your dryer is making your like hell….. Anyway, if your heating element is reading continuity of 0 ohms then it’s bad. Did you have it installed in the dryer when you checked for continuity or did you remove the element first? See here…………….

32 Ivan Watkins November 14, 2014 at 11:31 pm

Thanks for your reply RR, I removed the heater element from the heater box and when I tested the resistance on the two terminals it measured 0 OHMS. Why is a reading of 0 OHMS bad for a heater element when it still shows continuity?


33 DIY Project Help Tips November 15, 2014 at 12:12 am

Heating elements can be tricky depending on age and type we just wanted to be sure it showed continuity. Anyway….. Does your dryer have a choice of temp settings? If so then there are separate thermostats used for each setting. Have you made certain to test and troubleshoot the multiple thermostats? The selector switch or timer control routes the circuit through to the appropriate thermostat so maybe one of them are bad or on the fritz. A thermostat should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature. Hope that may help a little! Let us know!

34 Ivan Watkins November 15, 2014 at 12:41 am

I have tested all the thermostats, clycling & high heat. Unfortunately my dryer does not have a choice of temperature settings. There is not an external temperature selector that I can test. My dryer is a 110.96512200 Kenmore. I was wondering if the timer might be going bad. Unfortunately it is not sold at Sears parts anymore. The dryer is about 21 years old. One thing that I noticed is that the wires that lead up to the thermal cutoff fuse on the heater box are charred and look almost fried. Not sure how that happened so as a last ditched effort I’m going to cut them back to good wire and put new terminals on them and see if that helps. If that doesn’t work I’m not sure what to do next.

35 Liz November 15, 2014 at 1:45 pm

Thanks for your suggestion and sorry for my delay in getting back to you.

It’s not that sort of fitting but like this one – –

The problem is the right hand end which doesn’t seem to have a way of keeping the tube attached to the plastic, especially as the hose shrinks slightly with the heat.

Yesterday I put a wire ‘cage’ inside the hose to support it and try to keep it in place, so far so good but seems a poor design, unless I’m still missing something obvious which I surely must be !

36 Dan November 20, 2014 at 2:10 pm

I have a dryer that is not completely drying medium load and the vent fiters are needing to be cleaned after almost every cycle !!! Any sugesstions ????

37 DIY Project Help Tips November 20, 2014 at 5:31 pm

Best thing to do is open the machine up on the back and do a visual sweep to possibly find an obvious issue. If the filter needs cleaned after each drying load, that is normal but having a large amount of lint will depend on what you are drying.

38 josh December 5, 2014 at 1:15 am

My whirlpool dryer will heat up on certain settings but not on others such as timed dry. The dryer barrel turns but doesn’t always get heat. There are no clogs as far as I can see.

39 DIY Project Help Tips December 5, 2014 at 1:24 am

Your dryer timer more than likely needs to be replaced. Test and see if the timer is supplying power to the heater element on timed dry mode. If the timer is not sending power, it will need to be replaced. You can test the timer with a multimeter. You could chance it and just purchase a new timer as that is really the only thing that supplies power to the heating element.

40 Autumn Larsen December 11, 2014 at 4:45 am

My frigidaire electric dryer started making a humming noise 2 days ago, but it was still tumbling and drying the clothes. Yesterday it stopped heating but continued to tumble. Now it will tumble for about 10 minutes without heating and then shut itself off.

41 DIY Project Help Tips December 11, 2014 at 5:34 am

Either the THERMAL FUSE or the THERMOSTAT(S) is on the fritz. You can test them with a multimeter to see if they are working properly. Those 2 parts are very common and are available on Amazon under the “Appliance replacement parts” category.
If you have more info for us, please let us know and we can continue to further troubleshoot.

42 Doug Hacker January 4, 2015 at 6:08 am

Our dryer turns, heats but doesn’t dry very well..we just cleaned out the back and put in a new vent, but still not drying well. Any clues as to what else to look for or is it time for a new dryer?

43 DIY Project Help Tips January 6, 2015 at 2:43 am

Have you used a long bristle wand to clean deep into the vent behind the dryer? There could be a large build up of lint hidden within it. Also be sure the filter screen is clean and not damaged.

44 Chris January 7, 2015 at 10:00 pm

I have a gas speed queen dryer that runs fine but some of the clothes come out wet like jeans. I checked the vents and there clean checked and replaced both thermostat sensors and still clothes come out a little wet never had this problem before any ideas on what it may be

45 DIY Project Help Tips January 8, 2015 at 12:02 am

First, make sure there are not multiple heat settings on your controls. We have seen where a button is pressed to set the dryer to low heat. Check that first. Are you drying the clothes on a different cycle then before? Have you checked the gas valve to be sure it is working properly? Have you cleaned out the vents deep inside the walls? Is the lint screen clean and not damaged?

46 harish January 8, 2015 at 2:11 am

I have a 3 year old electric Samsung dryer and it stopped heating. I have replaced heating element(actually complete house) and kept the door open and hold button so that drum rotates. And as soon as I turn it on I smell some thing burning, is this because of new element? but worrying part is I can see smoke inside drum….. Is there some thing wrong, should I call a technician?


47 DIY Project Help Tips January 9, 2015 at 8:54 pm

If you see smoke, that COULD mean that the element is just burning off any oils that are on it from production. This is your call but…. you could disassemble and be sure your element install is correct or call a technician as if something was wired wrong a fire could occur.

Is it possible the heating element is making contact with something? Insulation, wires, the housing?

48 Jessica cox January 14, 2015 at 12:26 am

My dryer stopped heating so I bought a new one still it want heat so I bought a new breaker and new wire Why won’t the brand new dryer heat either

49 DIY Project Help Tips January 14, 2015 at 1:02 am

Your dryer works (tumbles) but just will not heat? It is most likely your dryer is on a double breaker 110V each. One breaker is probably switched off. If your dryer is 220V then make sure both breakers are flipped ON if that applies to your situation. If this did not help please let know more detail about your situation. Make and model of your dryer.

50 Nicole January 14, 2015 at 1:42 pm

Dryer works (tumbles) but will not heat. We replaced the thermal fuse and the dryer worked for about 30 minutes. We then replaced the thermal fuse and the thermistor and the dryer worked for 3 loads. The thermal fuse is not ohming out but now the thermistor is fine. All vents have been cleaned there are no obstructions. Everything is testing fine except for the thermal fuse. Wondering what should we do/test next. Considering ordering the hi limit thermostat along with the thermal fuse since I have read that it is recommended to replace with the thermal fuse. Please help – thanks!! Just in case this helps- dryer is 2 years old and the model # DLEX2655V.

51 DIY Project Help Tips January 14, 2015 at 7:02 pm

Basically a thermal fuse reacts to excessive temperature (not electrical current) but they shut off electrical power when they blow. Assuming you have no air blockage in your vents, the problem could be a defective heating element or the blower which pushes the hot air through the exhaust is bad. Have you checked both parts to be sure they are in proper working order?

Also a defective cycling thermostat can also cause the dryer to overheat if it does not turn off the heat at the proper temperature.

Heating element: Have you checked to make sure it is not touching some part of the assembly casing? You could unplug the dryer, remove the heater assembly and test it for continuity with an ohmmeter just to be sure.

Blower: You won’t feel much air coming from the vent outlet if the blower is bad.

52 kyle January 15, 2015 at 3:48 am

I have a Maytag Maxima model MED7000XW2 that’s 2 years old that has me puzzled. It started to make a humming noise about 15-20 mins into a cycle I shut it off for a min and turned it back on and all was fine. Then the next day I used it and it did the same thing but wouldn’t go away when shutting it off. later that day I used it and it never made the noise at all. Now today it made the noise louder yet after 20 mins of use and then after sitting for a while and continuing the load t went away again. I took the dryer apart earlier today and didn’t see anything wrong the belt looked good and all wheels and pullys spun good and no shaft play in the motor or blower, some light lint build up around the inside of the case but other then that no problems. What could be causing this humming noise? its not a screech just a loud noisy hum.

53 DIY Project Help Tips January 15, 2015 at 2:57 pm

Sounds like you checked all the obvious signs of where the humming could be coming from. Could it actually just be the machine slightly vibrating or possibly a side panel vibration? For us not to be able to hear the sound we can only guess but could it be possibly a door issue? (Loose screws or door lock loose?) Where is the humming sound coming from exactly?

54 rob January 27, 2015 at 12:31 am

Pulled dryer out and cleaned the vent tube with drill duct brush. Dryer still taking 5-7 cycles to dry and the back of the dryer is very hot to the touch. Hoping to fix myself but don’t know where to turn next.

55 DIY Project Help Tips January 29, 2015 at 9:32 pm

Instead of us giving paragraphs of advice, try this first… Remove the vent hose from the dryer and do a test run. If the dryer still takes forever to dry your clothes, then you will know the dryer itself is the problem. You may have a thermostat that is fluctuating or other temperature control issues. If the dryer does dry your clothing as it should, then you know you still have a major blockage in the wall or vent duct somewhere.

56 Charles February 18, 2015 at 12:29 am

I have a Whirlpool Dryer GEQ9800LW1 ITS 1O years old, it recently stopped heating, but still tumbled, so after taking it apart, cleaning out a LOT of dust and debris, all the vents and exhaust pipes. I checked the:
Thermal fuse, checks ok,
The heating element, checks ok,
The thermostats, front one ok, rear one bad,
I replaced them both (thermostats fuses) and three weeks later its doing the same.. did the same checks.. and its the same one is out again… ideas???

57 DIY Project Help Tips February 18, 2015 at 10:39 pm

How many times did you use your dryer in the 3 weeks it worked after you replaced the thermostats? Be sure that the lint vent tube (and in the wall) is completely cleaned out of all lint buildup. Even if it looks clean, deep in the wall it may not be. Check to be sure the wiring/element is not grounding out and causing a short.

58 paul February 27, 2015 at 7:35 pm

So i have cleaned the vent from the back of the dryer to outside. replaced the heating element and all the fuses and still i am blowing one of the high limit fuses on the heating coil

59 DIY Project Help Tips February 27, 2015 at 7:57 pm

Does the high limit blow as soon as you turn the dryer on? Is something grounding out on the frame? Have you checked all wiring? If all that is good, have you removed the vent hose from the wall and see if that makes a difference just as a test?

60 craven March 3, 2015 at 2:57 am

I have a Frigidaire stackable and the dryer is getting hot and spinning but wont dry until 3 spin cycles…what do I do?

61 DIY Project Help Tips March 3, 2015 at 3:56 am

Have you cleaned lint filter, checked vent hose for clogs, inlet in wall, outlet behind dryer? Also make sure your temp setting is not accidentally set to low.

62 Ryan March 5, 2015 at 2:12 am

My dryer seems to have low air flow. I cleaned it of all lint inside and out, checked and cleaned the vent hose to the outside, but it still does not dry. It does heat, and I replaced the thermostat that is on the air exit from the machine just before the vent hose attaches, the one indicated and sold by the local appliance repair part dealer when I described my problem. It WILL dry fine if I disconnect the vent and allow it to blow air into the room, which should indicate a clogged vent hose or vent on the outside of the house, and obviously that line is blocking airflow enough to make the dryer not dry. BUT, is it possible that the blower is just not strong enough, that it is broken somehow? It should be able to push air out a ten foot length of cleaned hose right? I tested the flow by holding a paper towel to the intake on the inside of the drum with it running, and it was very weak, though stronger without the hose attached, but even then, only equal to our other dryer -the one in question is for our tenants-, which is connected with a similar length of hose. Thoughts? should I replace the corrugated hose with smooth metal? Is there something wrong with the blower? It’s not particularly noisy. Thank you for considering. -Ryan

63 DIY Project Help Tips March 5, 2015 at 10:43 pm

First, make sure the vent hose is not being bent or crimped when the dryer is slid back into place. The shorter the hose the better. You may also need to check with the manufacturer of the dryer to see the specific specs on the blower. You can purchase another blower that may give you a better airflow output. But know this, if the vent hose is long and bent or has many twists and turns because of length, then the blower is having to work extra hard to actually PUSH the air out. And be absolute sure there is no blockage WHATSOEVER in the wall. Meaning lint or other objects. Any slight blockage will cause you issues as you have described. Let us know what you find and get back to us. ALSO… What brand and model dryer are you having issues with?

64 darian March 7, 2015 at 6:22 am

I have a frigidaire stackable, dryer heating fine but clothes kept coming out damp, also wouldnt collect lint. Checked the back of the dryer and the hose was off the connector on the back of the dryer. Got it back on. Could that be the reason my clothes werent drying. No lint caught in the hose.. hose was just disconnected off the back of the dryer. Also just replaced the heating element. Thanks!

65 DIY Project Help Tips March 9, 2015 at 10:40 pm

Check to be sure the heat setting is set on high. If you just replaced the element, was the reason because it was bad or you just assumed that was the issue? The hose being off should not effect if your clothes dry. It would actually dry your clothes faster if the hose was off (since the heat would not have to be pushed many feet through the wall or ceiling) but it would heat the house and lint would get everywhere. Your new element may not be the exact replacement. This may be the reason your clothes are not drying as fast as before. Make sure the vent hose is attached, set the dryer on high setting and longest heat setting and see what happens. If you still have issues it may be a thermostat issue.

66 sarah March 19, 2015 at 1:17 pm

My 6 years old Fisher and Paykel electrical dryer (Model # DE 09 USO) stopped heating after I cleaned lint box! The drum rotates fines. I called the repair guy. He said he checked everything and seems like timer may be the problem but doesn’t guarantee that timer is the problem. Can you please guide me how do I check timer is a problem? Since timer is very expensive, if it is faulty I would have to buy a new unit and want to make sure before spending lots of money.

67 DIY Project Help Tips March 19, 2015 at 8:56 pm

Your dryer has a thermal fuse. Did the technician check the fuse or any of the thermostats? If so, and they were all ok, then that may be the reason he suggested that the timer may be faulty. Make sure thermostat and fuse is ok, as these are relatively cheap parts compared to an expensive timer.

68 Claudia March 21, 2015 at 10:53 pm

I have a roper electiric dryer model # REX4635EQ2 that is not drying enough since I changed it from a three prong to a 4 prong. I have checked the continuity on all parts and they are all showing continuity and I cleaned out the vents and the back of the machine. How do I check if the machine is getting the right voltage from the wall without electricuting myself :)

69 DIY Project Help Tips March 23, 2015 at 8:26 pm

Here is a video that will show how to test voltage on a dryer.

70 Claudia March 29, 2015 at 8:39 pm

Thanks. Everything has checked out ok but still not getting enough heat to dry a regular sized load. Any other suggestions?

71 DIY Project Help Tips March 29, 2015 at 10:26 pm

Make sure lint filter clean. Make sure dryer is on high heat. Be sure the vent hose is clear. Check to see if another setting is set incorrectly. Possibly test thermostats with a multimeter.

72 Sarah March 29, 2015 at 11:06 pm

Technician checked fuse and elements. To verify whether timer is a problem, I checked continuity in red and black wires of the timer. It doesn’t show continuity. Does this mean timer needs replacement? or there is easy/cheap way to fix it?


73 DIY Project Help Tips March 30, 2015 at 6:47 pm

Why did the technician not fully troubleshoot your dryer problem?
You need to test the timer in ohms. This will tell you if a particular part of the timer is bad. Set your ohmmeter to the Rx1 setting. A normal reading for a dryer timer is in the 2000 – 3000 ohms range. You should find the schematic for your dryer to find out any info that applies to your particular dryer. The schematic should tell you the proper resistance reading for your specific dryer timer motor. If the reading you get from testing your dryer timer’s motor is completely off from the 2000 – 3000 ohms range then replace the dryer timer motor. Replace just the motor itself and not the entire assembly as this will save you money.

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