Is your refrigerator not cooling? Is your older or newer model refrigerator plugged in, getting power, the lights are on inside but the fridge will not cool and the freezer won’t freeze? If your refrigerator or freezer has suddenly stopped cooling and the freezer won’t freeze, we have multiple solutions for you.
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start. The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.
There are other parts on your refrigerator that have to start the compressor. The most common component that is most likely to fail is the capacitor. The capacitor is energized and sends a boost to the compressor to start. If this capacitor is bad then the compressor will not start. The “clicking” sound that you hear is the overload or overheating of the compressor. The compressor is trying to start and will get very hot and go into overload causing the clicking noise that you hear. (Also, the condenser coils may be dusty and dirty preventing your fridge from cooling properly, see bottom of page to fix).
What to check first and most Common Problems and Solutions for a Refrigerator that will not Cool:
1. DIRTY CONDENSER – CLEAN THE CONDENSER COILS AND FAN
2. TEMPERATURE SETTING TURNED TO LOW – TURN TEMPERATURE SETTING TO COLDER
3. CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPPED – POWER SPIKE – RESET CIRCUIT BREAKER
4. COMPRESSOR WON’T START – FAILED CAPACITOR – REPLACE CAPACITOR
5. COMPRESSOR NOT STARTING – BAD RELAY – REPLACE RELAY
6. DEFROST TIMER MALFUNCTION – REPLACE DEFROST TIMER OR COMPUTER CONTROL BOARD
7. FAILED DOOR SEAL – REPLACE WORN OUT DOOR SEAL
8. FAILED COMPRESSOR – REPLACE COMPRESSOR
For other refrigerator issues, here is a DIY Troubleshooting Guide For Your Refrigerator.
A compressor is what allows your refrigerator to cool and freezer to freeze.
If this sounds like the problem with your refrigerator and or freezer (a clicking sound and not cooling), you can fix it yourself fairly easy. First start by unplugging your refrigerator and getting behind your refrigerator. Using a multimeter, test the starting components including the capacitor and relay (if applicable) that is located next to the compressor. Most likely the capacitor or the relay will be the cause of the problem. When your refrigerator makes the clicking noise it means the compressor is trying to start but is unable too. The refrigerator part that starts the compressor is the capacitor/relay.
You can purchase a universal refrigerator capacitor that is designed for a refrigerator for around $10 dollars. If the capacitor is good, another part of the start system could be bad. Test everything with a multimeter and determine what part may have failed. If you determine that everything is working properly and is free from dirt but the refrigerator will still not cool, then the problem could be a bad compressor. At this point you should call a repair company. Most repair companies charge $200 or more to replace a compressor. A new refrigerator costs from $300 to $800. So, do the math and figure out what is the best solution for you.
If you know what Refrigerator Replacement Parts you need,
here is where to get them at a GREAT PRICE and most have FREE shipping.
This is a Universal Capacitor designed for most older style Refrigerators and Freezers
This is a Newer Style Capacitor/Relay designed for most new style Refrigerators and Freezers
Clean your Refrigerator Condenser Coils every 6 months for Problem Free Operation.
Another very common problem with a refrigerator not cooling is a dirty condenser. If the condenser coils are dirty, the compressor will overheat and will cut off on the overload. There is a thermostat on the compressor that shuts it off when it overheats. This will also make a clicking noise about 2 to 3 minutes apart coming from the back of your refrigerator. That clicking noise is your compressor turning on and off as it overheats and then cools down.
To check to see if you have dirty condenser coils, unplug the power cord, get behind your refrigerator and remove the small panel at the bottom of the fridge. If you see dust or dirt buildup on the components, use a vacuum cleaner with a wand attachment or a coil cleaning brush and remove all dirt and dust. Once the coils are clean leave the fridge unplugged for an hour or so.
After an hour plug the refrigerator back in. Give the fridge a few minutes to start working properly and then check to see if it is running. You should hear the condenser fan running from the back. Leave the fridge alone for a little while and then check to see if the fridge and freezer is cooling. Do this by opening the freezer and refrigerator door and hold your hand where the cool air comes in. If everything is working properly you should feel cool air coming in. If so the problem is fixed. Remember to clean the coils on your refrigerator every 6 months to avoid this problem in the future.
Kenmore & Whirlpool Refrigerator – Not cooling or freezing – Diagnostic & Repair
Refrigerator Isn’t Cooling — Refrigerator Troubleshooting
If you still need help, assistance, or answers to fix your Refrigerator Not Cooling problem, ask the
experts over at Appliance Repair Questions for free answers to fix your broken appliance!
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508 thoughts on “Refrigerator Is Not Cooling – What To Check And How To Fix”
I have a samsung refrigerator rs267tdrs/xaa with a 5 E error code. can you tell me what that means?
my LG refrigerator with model no GC-131S is not cooling again, i traveled for about two months, on returning and trying to use the refrigerator i discovered the light came up but it was not cooling, i adjusted the temperature knob still there was no change, please what can i do to solve this problem. thanks in advance of your favorable response.
1. My deep freezer only freezes lower part. What would be the problem.
2. Am repairing my deep freezer but after replacing a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, I plugged it into power and worked for 12hrs. When I plugged it off, it couldn’t go on the next morning. What could be the problem
mine too, did you find a compressor for it? I am having a hard time finding the compressor for it. it supposedly is no longer being made.
I have a refrigerator that cools down and runs for a while and overnite shuts down and blows warm air in the freezer, I noticed when this happens the condenser fan stops running kenmore model # 363.8791512
The temperature controls and water dispenser and the fan and compressor are not working after power outage. What do I need to check
I too am having the same problem with my Samsung refrigerator. I took the back cover off (back of the refrigerator on the bottom) and dusted the coils, they weren’t that dirty.
I’m going to use my multi-meter next on the capacitor, but I’m not hearing any clicking. It makes me think it’s the compressor.
I’m a single female, in my 50’s and have never done anything like this before. Just did research and grit to move the refrigerator!
The refrigerator is 4 years old. It has a 10 year warranty on the compressor. The service charge to just come out here is $125.00, regardless of a warranty issue or not.
If it is the compressor, they will replace it, but I have to pay for the labor.
I don’t have any money to pay the repair place to fix this, so I’m hoping I can fix it! Fingers, toes and eyeballs crossed!
My HIGHTEC refrigerator has a half size top freezer and a base refrigerator but both won’t work (ie freezer won’t freeze and fridge side won’t cool). The condenser coils at the back of the refrigerator too which I believe is expected to heat while the fridge is on and working is not getting hot. But the internal light is on when the fridge door is opened. I hear a struggling or laboured noise at the back of the fridge.
I have a Whirlpool Goldstar Model GB2FHDXWQ01 The refrigerator section stopped getting cold, I replaced the capacitor, the start dev. the damper control and the control board, Basically every part that Part Select.com says will solve the problem and it STILL doesn’t work. I have invested $400.00 in parts trying to fix it myself. I just bought the bimetal defrost thermostat but there are no installation videos on how to replace it. Can anyone help !!!
I have a LG GL-244 Model Double Door Fridge, before 2 days my fridge is not cooling, but freezer is proper cooling and making ice. i adjust temp knob but no effect. what is a problem in this??
My Refrigerator outside is Warming but unit not Cooling.
The evaporator drain pan is likely to be clogged.
Dear Joan i have the same problem , tecknecian has changed the fan 2 night before but still Fridg temperture is 16 c !!
Im confused because he opened inside & he showed me all parts it was all insider back side of Lights panel he removed all ..
Could you solve your problem what was the problem ???
I think you can help me ,,now ..
My refrigerator gets cool but it won’t freezer what do I do from here
Leaks large amounts of water from the back, every second day. Freezer is clean and only has few items in it.
I have a 2010-2011 Garrison Water Cooler with fridge storage.
Fridge is not getting cold at all, and the water bottle on top of water cooler/dispenser isn’t getting cold.
(water is dispensing cold, and hot water option is releasing hot water. Just not sure if water bottle is suppose to get cold or not.)
And what can I do about the fridge storage not getting cold at all?.
I have it plugged in, i cleaned the lines, I cleaned the system.
If anyone can help out with answers, ideas, suggestions on how to fix this, that would be greatly appreciated.
I really want to try and fix it.
Having no manual in hand or online is hard to figure out what the problem is.
I have a Daewoo FRS-U20DAI refrigerator.
Since last Friday the unit is not working properly – the refrigerator was at +12 C, and some of the stuff i had in the freezer was melting, but the ice maker was still making ice.
I turned it off, opened the freezer inside panel so i can clean and dry the coils.
Left it OFF for the night and turned it back on in the morning.
Since this Wednesday the refrigerator side is doing well not great, but OK (my thermometer is showing somewhere around +5 C to +7 C) – the unit is set at +4C.
The freezer is the main issue now – the thermometers shows from -5 C to -9 C, as it is set to -19 C.
What could it be, and how to fix it?
I called two repairmen, but they all said, they cannot handle these models.
I have a Whirlpool model 400 ice magic elite double door with freezer on top.
It was not cooling and the service engineer has changed the compressor, relay, thermostat, capillary tube, bimetallic and refilled gas many times but the temp achieved are -10.3degree Celsius in freezer compartment and +12.3 degree Celsius and + 18.4 in fruit compartment in full use empty fridge in one hour.
The service engineers are saying it is working fine but it is not so.
What are the ideal temp which are to be achieved?
I have a GE side by side Model GSL22JFTEBS with several problems.
In the freezer: the water dispenses from the door and ice came out crushed only whether you selected Crushed or Cubed.
Now ice is not being made at all.
The compressor is working and by that I mean the fan is spinning.
On the fresh side, a few weeks ago, the air was coming in too cold and freezing everything even though I put it on the warmest setting.
So I covered the damper with a plastic film to limit the air and it solved the problem.
But, this week no air is coming in at all but there’s a functioning noise coming from the damper and it is somewhat cold but not enough.
I have a Samsung fridge/freezer.
The fridge is not cooling and the freezer is freezing.
Lights are working there was no clicking.
Have checked the back and all good.
Where abouts are the coils, I could not find them.
Did you check capacitor as specified?
I have a 2014 Whirlpool side by side model number GSS30C6EYY03.
Is working but not cold enough, the fridge is just coolish and freezer is cold enough to freeze ice but frozen things are gushy not frozen solid.
I tried to clean coils and fan but they really weren’t that dirty.
What is my next step to getting this fixed.
Tried turning the temperatures down but that seemed to do nothing.
I been having issues with a Kenmore fridge. It quit cooling. Fan shows no signs of life and the display only shows blue diagonal lines and nothing comes from the dispenser.
When plugged in it only activates the ice machine drawer.
I have a GE Monogram ZISS480DRISS refrigerator. The compressor stopped running and an inverter replacement, by a repair company, got it up and running again, cooling properly. The compressor was running hot (couldn’t keep hand on it). The repair company returned and added refrigerant (not weighed in). The compressor temp returned to normal but, ice began forming and melting repeatedly on the filter dryer. The repair company returned (3rd visit) and elected to remove all refrigerant and weigh in the required 12.5 oz. They also injected green dye, to look for leaks at a later visit suggesting, refrigerant should never be necessary to add to a non leaking system. The freeze/thaw cycling of the filter dryer continued, with the addition of a new, loud popping sound, 24 hrs a day. The repair company returned to assess (4th visit), never checking for any leak they injected the dye for. They then sent me an estimate to replace the dryer, copper lines, nitrogen purge, new refrigerant for $2000.
I got GE to come look at it and they said, green dye should never have been injected into this unit. GE says the dye has messed up the system, they won’t touch it and to call back the repair company that did this. The repair company finally returned (5th visit) to reassess by taking phone photos, instead of looking with an internal line scope, they sent the repair tech out to perform. The repair tech determined that the compressor overheating at the beginning of all this, is what has harmed the filter dryer. Today their service dept called me, saying they are not taking responsibility for causing this problem. This has been going on since 9-27-16, having already spent $1000 in repair attempts and way too numerous lackluster non returned calls to the repair company, after I refused to pay them $2000 to repair what I see as damage caused by them. I’m at my wits end in frustration.
I have a whirlpool refrigerator,model # WRF535SMBW00 it has stopped cooling. The fan runs constant while the compressor cycles on for 7 seconds then off for 1 minute 40 seconds. The fridge is only a few years old. The coils are clean. Any help would be great.
My Haier THEMEOCOOL make clicking noise I have clean the compressor still not working
I have a Maytag plus side by side RSW2200. It’s an older refrigerator. Started to make noise in back freezer thawed food. We looked in the back the fan wasn’t going. We gave it a push it started and we vacuumed it all out. Seems to be working ok. But still noise in back and worried it may stop again.
My Samsung fridge freezer keeps leaking and making a clicking noise, but goes away when we open the doors, also the freezer is not freezing and the screen on the water dispenser where it says freezer is 20 degrees is flashing and is warm inside.
I think its the display it needs resetting it flashes a blue num 1 the Model number. Is RB195ABPN I need to reset it
Thank you so much for your time and thourogh advice! I read your article and watched your video and repaired my fridge myself in less than an hour. You are a true blessing! God Bless you for being kind enough to help folks like me!
Thanks a lot about this mechanical guide for refrigerator repair, now my refrigerator problem is solved!
I have a Samsung srl551dp fridge and I have to turn it off and back on every 6 hours or so to get the compressor to start.
I got my meter and tested power when the unit was on and the compressor was not running.
I had voltage at my defrost heater when the compressor wasn’t going.
Have I an issue with my defrost system?
Or do I need to change out my main PCB?
How can I test my defrost system?
I have a DFD442..The exclamation mark is on and red. It is defrosting and the bottom is not cooling. Kindly assist.
My LG french door refrigerator freezer on the bottom stopped freezing yesterday.
Today the fridge isn’t staying cold.
I cleaned the coils..and around them.
Closed it back up..
Fan is blowing back there but that’s all I hear.
I have a LG LFX25978ST french door refrigerator.
There is humming noise and the freezer is not working, but the refrigerator is working.
Are the fans (top and bottom) running at any time on your Amana Fridge?
Does the compressor come on?
I have an Amana Fridge, model #ATB1935HRQ, Lights come on, I don’t hear any banging noise.
Freezer stopped freezing, now fridge stopped cooling.
It has been cleaned out from top to bottom, what now?
Settings have been changed to the coldest and still no cooling and no freezing.
Check the fans to be sure they are in working order and receiving power.
I have a refrigerator, the bottom part freezes normally but the top part does not get cold at all.
I have changed the thermostat but still do the same.
What could be the problem?
I have a question for you and any insight would be much appreciated.
My GE GSL25JFPEBS refrigerator has stopped cooling, while the freezer remains in perfect working condition.
The compressor fan kicks on for the Freezer, but does not trigger when I only switch on the refrigerator.
I have also cleaned everything, and visually it looks good.
Not sure if there is a separate relay or something that controls only the refrigerator.
Or is it the encoder board perhaps?
Press the 2 top buttons on the display for 10 seconds and that should reset the Whirlpool refrigerator and get it cooling again.
(Top furthest left button, and top furthest right button)
I have a Whirlpool fridge. Model# ED2NHGVQ01 The power went out. After power returned. Light works but the fridge will not cool back to temp. Is there a reset on the fridge?
I’ve got a Whirlpool top freezer digital refrigerator model #WRT771RWYBO1. It appears as if the compressor is running and I don’t hear any clicks from the rear indicating an overheating situation, however the refrigerator nor the freezer are getting cold. I hear the compressor running. There is no spot where I can reset the defrost timer and this sounds very much like that. Don’t want to replace the computer board if that’s not the issue.
I have a Samsung RS253BASB and yesterday afternoon I noticed the freezer and cooler were not cooling properly.
I do hear a clicking noise when I unplugged it and plugged it back in.
The fan does comes on and the temperature won’t go lower than 50 for freezer and 62 for refrigerator.
Alisha sounds like you have problem with the defrost system. Not familiar with Samsung but what happens is when ice builds up thick on your evaporator coils (coils behind a panel in the freezer compartment) it prevents air flow through the freezer fan vent.
So may be cold on freezer side but air is not blowing through enough to reach fridge side.
I saw a guy on Youtube just take the evaporator panel off his Samsung (about 4 screws) and defrosted the evaporator with hair dryer, and got all ice out of fan.
He says he has to do it about once every year.
I would bet though you need the defrost thermostat-heater assembly.
Either that your timer which may be a circuit board control needs to be replaced.
The noise you are hearing is not the compressor kicking on\off.
It is likely built up ice that hits the fan blades and breaks away falling from your evaporator coils.
If the timer or control board does not cycle into defrost mode every so many hrs. then a circuit will never be made to your defrost thermostat-heater.
So ice will build up.
If the timer\board is good the thermostat or heater assembly is bad and will not open circuit when iced up so no defrost no air circulation no fridge side cooling.
You can find videos on Youtube showing you how to check these parts with a multimeter.
Check to be sure you do not have a faulty contactor or relay that starts the compressor.
Does the compressor start?
Are the wires all connected down near the compressor?
If all looks okay, you could possibly have a faulty main control board.
Check to be sure all is good down near the compressor, and if so, carefully check the control board for burn marks, popped caps, etc…
Let us know what you find.
My Whirlpool refrigerator model number: 6GS5SHGXRS00. Has stopped cooling. Has been making a loud banging noise over last few days.
I have a samsung Rb195acpn . Compressor is running and warm (95 degrees f), but condenser is 85 degrees f. Has my compressor failed?
What is the model number of your Whirlpool Side By Side Refrigerator?
I have a Whirlpool refrigerator side by side. It wasn’t cooling so I reset the relay, but now the middle bar that separates the freezer and the fridge is getting hot. Please help.
Can you give us the model number of your Emerson Compact Refrigerator?
I have a compact Emerson refrigerator that is two years old . It just stopped working no sound the thing only working is the lights.
I have a Maytag M8RXEGMAB refrigerator with ice maker, the compressor runs constantly and the freezer will not make ice, refrigerator section does not get very cold.
Was the main control board looked at by the repair technician?
A freon leak is not usually the issue.
Usually it is the main control board, a relay or cap near the compressor, or a simple wiring issue.
Check the main control board for and sign of a burnt cap or similar.
I have an LG French door style refrigerator. Model #LMX25964ST/01. It is just 5 years old. It stopped making ice and then about a day later I noticed the food in the freezer began to thaw. Within the next day the freezer and fridge were not cooling at all. We called a repair service certified to work on LG. The guy seemed angry about the brand LG. He acted as though he didn’t even want to work on it because LG was “foreign”. (His words) He didn’t test anything, but he did say there was a freon leak. He said he charged it with freon. He didn’t put any dye in it though. The refrigerator cooled again for about a week and then did the same thing as before. Does this sound like it is indeed a freon leak or could it be something else? The coils are clean. No clicking noise. Just seems from what I’ve read that freon leaks aren’t usually the culprit and could be an easy fix. We would love to repair it instead of buying a new one if possible.
I have a kitachenaide side by side frig ten plus years old. model number ksrb25fhssh2. Refrig and freezer suddenly stopped cooling quickly last night. We caught it as ice cream had just melted and cooling had just stopped on both sides simultaneously; What could this be as it was sudden? I can hear fan running and I believe compressor coming on, although it has been a little loud lately. What do I do to try to troubleshoot and would new frig be best alternative? If i’m unable to fix and have to have serviceman, what would you estimate costs?
It sounds like your Hotpoint Refrigerator may have a DAMPER problem if cold air is not entering the fridge section.
Have you checked to see if the damper is positioned and working properly?
Our Hotpoint Mistral (LCD panel version) fridge freezer failed to maintain temperature recently with the fridge being at 21C and the freezer at -8C. I defrosted over 24 hours and cleaned the heat exchanger (in the base) as it was covered in deep thick dust. I noticed the fridge door sensor wasn’t working properly so rehung the door and that fixed that. Now we have -22C in the freezer but 10C in the fridge. The fridge fan runs fine but I can’t feel a cold breeze when it exits into the fridge compartment at the top. What can I try next?
Is there anything blocking the airflow near the 2 top shelves?
Is the fridge packed with food… as in so much in the fridge that the air cannot circulate?
What is the model number of your Hotpoint fridge?
I have a Hotpoint side by side refrigerator and the 2 top shelves in the freezer and the fridge aren’t as cool as they should.
The 2 bottom shelves cool fine but the top ones aren’t as cold. Any thoughts.
Hey there. Trying to help my parents get their fridge working again. They have a Samsung model #RF267ABRS. The freezer is working fine but the fridge is not cooling properly. Few ice spots on the very back inside the fridge. Also, the ice used to be under the bottom drawer inside the fridge and they would have to clean that out every so often. :( not sure what is going on. I do hear a popping noise every once in awhile but don’t know if that would be considered the “click” you are talking about. Please. Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
I need Hitachi refrigerator error code F0
I’ve got problem with Samsung RSG5DUMH Refrigerator.
Freezer stopped freeze, display show -25 but inside freezer is only -5, fridge still working ok, compressor and bottom of the fridge and middle section between doors getting very hot, no errors after self diagnostic.
I don’t see where in the wiring harness the wires would connect. It seems like they are just extra wires. Is that possible? Would there be extra wires? Would that unit cause the refrigerator not to work?
If you find a bad or loose wiring harness in your Samsung side by side fridge, replace it and or reconnect it.
Trace the wires and be sure they are not damaged or disconnected by using a multimeter.
I have a Samsung side by side refrigerator model #RF32FMQDBSR. I removed the ice dispenser auger motor assembly (part #DA97-12540A) because it had frozen over. I let it sit in the sun to melt all the ice away. When it was dry, I noticed that a connection in the back had dirt/rust on it so I disconnected it to clean it up. When I went back to connect it, I noticed that each connector had 3 wires and the middle wire on each side was loose. I couldn’t see where they would connect. I could see the opening/slot where they would go but no connection. I’m assuming that there shouldn’t be any loose wires? I couldn’t figure out how to connect or reassemble those 2 wires. I put the wires back into the opening/slot loosely and put the assembly back in the fridge. The ice maker is working as well as the freezer and bottom right refrigerator/chiller but not the main refrigerator. Would that bad connection cause the refrigerator not to work?
If the lights in the Haier fridge are ON but the compressor is not running and never does run, you may have a bad compressor or a simple relay or capacitor that is bad.
Check the above page for what we are talking about… it is a part located right next to the compressor and is a few bucks.
I have a Haier Refrigerator model about 9 years old my fridge and freezer do not cool but there is no clicking sounds and the lights are on as well you can hear that it’s on what could it be?
I have a GE Side by Side (Model GSC23KSWCSS) refrigerator. I just noticed that both the freezer and fridge are not cooling down. I cleaned the coils (which weren’t that bad). All the lights are coming on and I can hear the compressor working and also see the fan working. Do you have any other suggestions? Also approximately how long should it take to cool down to temperature? Thank you!
What is the make and model of your fridge?
I just fixed the relay on my fridge, hoping that was the problem, how long should it take to feel cold air, it has been unplugged for 12 hours or a little more.
If it is new and the freezer refrigerator has NEVER worked, then it may have faulty wiring, blocked coils, or other…
You can take things apart on your Whirlpool Fridge but if it is 2 weeks old and new, call where you purchased from and they should send a tech to fix it.
I have a Whirlpool WH31S1E Compact refrigerator/freezer. It is two weeks old and has never cooled. Compressor is running and warm. Thermostat clicks. Not sure what to do. I can send it in but would rather fix myself. HELP
Can you tell us the model number of your LG refrigerator and the part numbers you changed?
Are you getting any error codes on your LG display panel?
Have you checked that the freezer fan is working, even though you most likely changed it, is it getting power?
No damaged or disconnected wiring?
I have an LG fridge… The freezer is working but the fridge is not getting cold… I changed the mother board and fan motor… Still the same. What else can I try?
If both fans are in working order, then be sure the compressor is running.
Can you hear it start?
Are your temp controls correct?
Could the cap or relay for the compressor be bad?
Is there ice buildup on the rear coils?
Is defrost sensor bad?
Could wire harness for a part be unplugged?
Check all these things and get back to us.
My GE model number GSH35JFXB BB double sided refrigerator has stopped working. The freezer has stopped cooling as well as the refrigerator. The fan on the freezer side still engages after the doors have been left open, but still doesnt cool. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
The clicking on your Samsung refrigerator may be a bad relay.
Check the back to be sure the relay is working and is kicking on the compressor.
Is the compressor running working?
If you turn the temp down (colder), does the compressor come on within a few minutes?
The clicking sound you hear may be normal, check the fan in the freezer section to be sure it is working.
Is there any ice buildup on the back of the fridge or coils?
What is the model number of your Samsung refrigerator?
My Samsung double door fridge is not working, the temperature on the freezer is 22 and the fridge is 19 there’s a clicking sound it makes at the back, could you please assist me?
So as of right now the KitchenAid fridge does not work but the appliance tech has ordered parts?
We would say wait for the parts, if the evap motor and sensor needs replaced, get them replaced and the fridge should be okay if the tech diagnosed the issue correctly.
Let us know how the refrigerator works after the tech replaces the parts.
If you have further issues we can assist.
Have you checked the fans, relay, cap, compressor?
Is the fridge iced up on the back?
Please check the above and let us know.
My LG side by side fridge freezer does not work. It stopped suddenly and will not get cold on either side. The lights work but nothing else does. Model number is P197DPSL
I have a year and a half old Kitchenaid JFUV29PCM, which stopped cooling. I called a repair service and they found a huge ice block covering the evaporator and the sensor. The guy defrosted the ice pack and said he needs to order a evaporator motor and sensor. He said until the parts come the fridge should work. It only worked two days now we are back to square one. I had nothing but problems with this fridge. It is expensive and fancy, you think it would work properly. I would not recommend this fridge it is worthless piece of junk. Do you have any recommendation what to do next?
Try looking on Amazon as there are literally every type of cap relay for old and new refrigerators.
Where can a newer style capacitor relay be purchased for refrigerator?
Any error codes?
Everything is working, lights, fans, compressor…. but not cooling?
It may be stuck on SHOWROOM MODE.
Most likely the fan is bad and is hitting the housing. You may also have a compressor issue. Look inside the back of your GE fridge and you will likely see the issue. A new fan is a few dollars on Amazon.
We have a GE bottom freezer model # PTS22SISBSS that has suddenly stopped keeping cooling the freezer and fridge cold, and a constant noise coming from the back of the refrigerator at the bottom right. Help!
My fridge stopped working… it turns on but it doesnt cool/freeze. When I set the temperatures lower it keeps going back up right again. No cooling at all. Power freeze doesn’t work either. Samsung rsa1wtpe fridge.
Please tell us the make and model of your Refrigerator.
My freezer light is not working and not Cooling
I haven’t had a chance to check the fan and cond. but I did notice that which ever one it is, it turns off when you open the fridge. The noise varies in loudness and is not always constant.
If the noise is coming from the back of your Samsung refrigerator, the fan or compressor may be causing the noise.
Can you tell us, is the noise constant? Have you checked the evap and cond fan to see if one may be out of position and hitting the sides of the fridge?
Check the fans and let us know what you find.
I am having the same issue as traci. The fan noise is coming from the back bottom of the fridge. The freezer temp and cool space temp are good but the fridge temp is ranging from 45-64. I have a Samsung RS269LARS.
Make sure the freezer fan (condenser fan) is operational. If not the freezer will be cold but not the refrigerator. Here is a condenser fan we are talking about for your Samsung Refrigerator RB29FERNDSS/TC.
NOTE: Make sure the part number you order matches the one on your Samsung Refrigerator.
(The condenser fan draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly)
Samsung Refrigerator RB29FERNDSS/TC
Freezer is working but Fridge is not cooling what could be the problem?
Where is the noisy fan sound coming from? Behind the freezer or in the back bottom of your refrigerator? Can you give us the model number of your fridge?
My refrigerator ain’t cooling like it used to. Also they’re a fan noise that is constant running. The refrigerator is only 4 years old. Any ideas?
Thank you for the advice. I was ready to scrap my 15 years old KitchenAid side by side fridge which I have in the garage, but I was thinking give it last shot and I changed relay which you’re showing on the video. The fridge is working again!
Can you tell us if your Samsung refrigerator was showing any error codes before you unplugged it? If it was beeping, did you count the number of beeps? As this is sometimes an indicator of the problem. Plug the Samsung refrigerator back in and see if you get an error code or the beeping is in a pattern and let us know.
Check that the fan in the freezer is running. It should be located behind the back panel IN the freezer. If fan is not working, the fridge won’t cool… Replace it and you should be good to go.
Let us know what you find.
I have a Samsung cooltech model no:sr-24nme the freezer is working but the fridge is not. What should i do?
I have a Samsung side by side refrigerator model SR-S27FTA.
My fridge is not working at all, it was working fine and then it just went dead.
Before it went dead it made a lot of ice only the fridge compartment.
I just unplugged the refrigerator because is beeping and the control board isn’t response any button.
A 14 year old Maytag refrigerator may mean that your compressor is bad. Is the compressor running? Is it extra hot?
If you have checked all other parts of the fridge that allow it to cool, both fans are running, and cleaned the coils, then most likely compressor is shot.
A new compressor may not be worth the expense.
It may make more sense to buy a new fridge if the compressor is dead.
I have a Maytag bottom freezer MBB2256GEB, about 14 yrs old. Not getting cold enough. Have both temp settings cranked and fridge is cool, and freezer is cool, but not freezing (food thawing). Condenser and fan are running, but condenser is extremely hot. I cleaned out all the coils. I also checked the condenser and PTC for continuity and both seem ok from that perspective.
The fan needs to be operational for the fridge and freezer to work as designed. Is the fan in the freezer section (Condenser) working right now? If the fridge or freezer is not getting cold or frozen, be sure both the condenser and evap fans are operational.
If the lights are the only thing that works on your Kenmore refrigerator, you can check a few things. Check the power coming into the fridge. Check that all wiring is secure and not damaged. If you find no issues then most likely the main control board may be bad. Can you supply us the model number of your Kenmore fridge?
I have a Kenmore side by side that quit cooling but the fans ran for a short time and now the fans will not run, the light works but nothing else will come on. What do you think could be the problem?
My SANYO fridge SR-F42E SV freezer is not cold and the frozen food had thawed. A quick check showed that the cold air coming out from the louvers were weak. Upon dismantling the panels in the freezer, noted the fan is working fine but not too sure on the speed. After confirming no other discrepancy, assembled back the pane and this time round the fan is totally not working. May I ask is the fan the cause of the not cold defect? Why did the fan stop working when I assembled back the panels in the freezer? Confirm the fan is one of the causes and what are the other part that is causing the problem based on the earlier symptoms.
I have an LG (4 – 5 yrs old) side by side double door “American ” style fridge freezer with ice maker and crusher and and cold water outlets in the freezer door which also contains the control panel… which is not cooling or freezing (making ice etc)…. everything is working i.e all fans, lights and compressor…. the compressor is getting very hot but at the moment is still running… what i have noticed is that the compressor runs continuously (obviously because the required temperature is not reached) and the evaporator gets ice on about 70mm of the top of the evaporator, both left and right side…
What is the make and model number of your refrigerator and what is the EXACT issue? Not cooling? Both freezer and the refrigerator sections?
I have a refrigerator when you open the door (lamp does illuminate then shut down). Can you fix it?
Can you tell us the make and model of your refrigerator? Have you tried changing the temp settings? Where did the “terrible” sound come from and how often did you hear it? Is the freezer still working?
Lights of my fridge are on but it does not cool at all. Last night it was making a terrible sound. What could be the problem?
Was there any comments about this? I have a 2008 ZISS480DXASS model and it lives in a very tropical climate. For about 2 years it has not keep its temp. We chalked it up to the door being open too much during 90 degree F days. But now the high temperatures are not safe. Condenser has been cleaned. I have ZERO ice on my evaporator coils in the freezer defrost system now and the compressor is running slightly hot. I also have a lot of water in the pan below the compressor that runs over the edge and drips to the floor. Technician says I need a new compressor. We have not checked relays. Now I cannot even reset the temperature or C or F settings or reset the water filter on the touch panel. Would really appreciate any assistance.
My kitchenaid refrigerator/freezer ksss48qjx00 will cool for 2 days and then gets too warm. Freezer will go to 5 degrees then up to 35 degrees and stay there. I have checked for ice on the cooling fins inside, replaced the defrost timer, replaced the starter relay and cleaned the compressor coils. The only things left that I know of is the circuit overload protector on the compressor and the startup compressor, neither of which seem to be available any more. After I replaced the starter relay the frig worked for 2 weeks and has now gone back to its bad ways. If I turn it off for an hour and restart it works for about 2 days and misbehaves again. Evaporator is clear of ice and the heater tests continuous.
I have a Samsung RF26xAERS. We started getting water and ice under the crisper drawers and I would unthaw. About a month later the the freezer stopped cooling and unthawed everything. Now the fridge isn’t cooling either. Both fans are working and the compressor is running. We have put in a new temp. sensor. Could this be a computer board issue?
I have a Maytag side by side.Its probably 10 years old or so. A couple months ago the freezer wasn’t cold enough and everything thawed. We believe at that time the fridge side was the right temp, looking back it might not have been. We turned the temp dials to off overnight and tried the next day. It got cold and froze things like it should. We did pull it out and vacuum in and under. Everything was fine and functioning correctly…if not slightly more cold then usual in the fridge, It slightly froze lettuce and pop cans.
Well now its happened again. The freezer let things thaw out, and then I noticed the fridge was not nearly as cold as it should be. I moved all the food to our garage fridge. I turned the fridge off completely (with the temp dials inside) I took this opportunity to clean out both sides from old spilled mess. Waited overnight and turned it back on and all seems fine again. Freezer is making ice, and it not melting. Fridge is keeping food cold also.
Both times this happened the fridge was buzzing…not constantly just off and on. Almost like it was off balance and causing a buzz. No clicking noises…
I’m thinking this is a defrost adaptive control problem….the pipes get frozen and wont allow air through.. it thaws when its off and it runs fine until it freezes solid again.
I have a Kenmore model number 253 626-2901 5. Everything seems to be working until my freezer stopped freezing but it still cool. & my refrigerator is still cool but the temperature will not get any colder it will not get any colder in the freezer or the refrigerator.
Make sure the fridge is getting power. If so and the lights do not work, it is not cooling, and nothing is functioning, then let us have the make and model of your refrigerator and we can further assist.
My fridge is not working at all, it was working fine then it just went dead. No noise, light and it’s hot, I am confused and frustrated.
Give the fridge about 24 hours to get to temp after a manual defrost. If the fridge does not get cool make sure the temp settings are correct. Also have a look at the back where the compressor is to be sure the cap/replay is working and starting the compressor.
I have a Westinghouse compact refrigerator model # EL05P, there was ice build up in the little freezer compartment so I turned the cooling button/switch off and left it off overnight to defrost, after defrosting and cleaning the interior i turned the cooling knob to max cool and it will not start cooling at all. I’m not sure if the compressor is running, I touched it and it was hot. Before defrosting it had always worked perfectly, I have a hearing problem but I “think” I hear the compressor humming, no clicking noises. I think it did try cooling for about a half hour but that’s it. I am a disabled bedridden vet that sure needs help as this unit is bedside for me. Thanks so much
WoW! That was such a fast response! Thank you for your Help!!
If a power outage caused the issue, it may be as simple as resetting the GE refrigerator by pressing 2 buttons on the front display panel. See the page here about resetting a refrigerator display panel. Here is also a video to explain how to fix a GE refrigerator not cooling properly. If these are not your issue let us know and we can assist from there.
I have a GE side by side refrigerator. Model no GSH25JSTC. After a couple hour power outage when the power came back on the refrigerator and freezer quit working. The only thing that i can see working is the lights in the freezer and refrigerator. No fans are working and the compressor is not working or clicking. The fan by the compressor is not working. The water and ice dispenser are not working. I have switched the breaker on and off and and left unplugged for about 30 min and tried again. Any help would be great. Thanks!
If this issue happened after a power outage, usually you need to allow the fridge freezer from 24 to 48 hours to get back to the proper temp. If you have allowed the proper time and the freezer is not freezing but the fridge is cooling, then you may have an issue with ice on the coils or a build up of ice in the freezer section. The power outage let the ice melt and when power was returned the water may have froze and this is what is causing your issue. Check the back of the freezer for ice build up and if so defrost the complete unit to allow for the ice to melt. Make sure there is nothing blocking the freezer drain line also. Be sure both fans are operational.
I have a 13 year old Frigidaire Pure source (model # FRS26R4AW5) side-by-side refrigerator that stopped working after a power outage a week ago. The temp in the freezer unit is cold but not freezing. The temperature in the refrigerator unit seems to be OK. The light and the fan are running. The ice maker is not working but water dispenser is working OK. The compressor is slightly warm to touch but makes no noise. I see no water on the dripping pan or any frosting on condenser coils. Is the problem with compressor or defrost cycle timer or clogged water line?
Having replaced all the parts you have mentioned, the control board may have an issue. Have you checked the main control board? Often times the issues you are describing are the result of a faulty main control board. It should be located at the back of the fridge behind a small panel. Unplug the refrigerator…. Check it for bulged capacitors or burnt marks. Check that the wire harnesses are tight and secure. It may be difficult to test the board with a meter but if you are able, do it. Further troubleshooting will be needed to find the exact issue but most likely the main control board is bad.
there is only one control knob for freezer and fridge, this is a top freezer/bottom fridge appliance..i can feel the fan blowing cold air to both the freezer and fridge, but the freezer is not freezing anything,,.freezer is totally defrosted, no ice anywhere, plus freezer is now completely empty to save food from spoiling. i ordered the defrost timer ,, will install that first,(cheaper then thermostat) and im pretty sure the thermostat and temp controller are one unit.will try that next if defrost timer does not work.
The temperature setting in your freezer was possibly raised accidentally? If so set the freezer temp to the correct setting. Then you could try to pull the freezer out and look for dust or ice that might be on the coils. Is there ice clogging it? Defrost the freezer if it’s clogged with ice. If all looks good then it may be a thermostat, temp controller, or the defrost timer. You need to do more troubleshooting to find the exact part that is malfunctioning. Also be sure the freezer is not overfilled and blocking airflow.
Kenmore fridge #10662724110. The fridge is blowing cold air out and fan is running, but freezer is not freezing, food is defrosting in freezer, even though the cold air is blowing in. Also the coils behind fridge are warm to touch, could it be the defrost timer or possibly the thermostat? Both are very easy to replace.
I have a 3yr old, 3-door Kitchenaid KFIV29PCMS, recently I have had the compressor replaced, freon added, evap fan replaced, evaporator thermistor replaced, and here is the problems I am still having: (I bought 2 thermometers 1 to place in freezer and 1 to place in fridge so I could get true temp readings. I have the fridge temperature set on the display panel at 37 degrees (recommended), however thermometer reads 42 degrees. Freezer is set at 0 degrees, but thermometer is reading 35 degrees, and nothing in the freezer is freezing. Things are cold in freezer but not freezing. Keeping in mind all of the parts listed above that we have already replaced, what else could it possibly be that is causing the freezer to not be at freezing temperatures, and the fridge to not be at the temp we have set it at? Right now, I have now set the fridge at 33 degrees, and I’m getting a reading of 40 degrees in the fridge. Any recommendations?
Board is out and will see if can get it tested. Very similar to one in your link. Will let you know outcome.
Replacing the control board may be your best bet, just make sure you have thoroughly tested and made sure all other components in your refrigerator are working properly. The Daewoo refrigerator control board FRS-552F/662F does not show up but similar ones do. Does this Daewoo control board for refrigerator look like the one in your fridge? The part number does not match perfectly but Daewoo makes multiple control boards with different part numbers and a few are universal boards. Make sure you purchase the correct one as they have changed some part numbers on the boards.
Firstly thank you for your reply. Great site. Have looked at the board. Caps look all okay. No bulging or discoloration on board. Lack of power makes sense. Its a Daewoo board. Looks like number is FRS-552F/662F
If everything turns off after one minute (compressor, lights, fans, everything dead = no power) you most likely have a power issue that may be within the control board. Have you checked the board visually to be sure you see NO obvious signs of damage such as popped caps or a burnt area? There may be a bad part on the board that has failed and telling the fridge to cut power after a minute or so. Let us know what you find and we can assist from there.
I have a Defy F660L Digital fridge. It shut down. I unplugged it and let it sit and plugged in again. It started (lights on, fan on and compressor running) and ran for one minute and shut down again. Lights off on front panel, fan off and compressor shuts down. If left sit it does not try to restart. I have replaced the overload relay but not start relay but the same thing happens. If the overload and start relay are left off the fan comes on but obviously not the compressor. After 1 minute the fridge shuts down again.
Was the fridge/freezer laid down on it’s side when it was moved? Either way, unplug the fridge and let it sit for 24 hours. The compressor oil may be in the lines and therefore it cannot cool. Allowing it some time to sit will let the oil go back into the compressor.
Hi. We moved our 17 year old Whirlpool gold fridge /freezer yesterday. It isn’t cooling and is hot on the outside near the top front side and top front area. It isn’t really noisy. It was working fine before the move. Thanks in advance.
If the fridge is new, do you not have a warranty? Have you checked voltage to where you plug in the fridge? As if the the brand new fridge is doing the same exact thing as the old, you could have a power issue. What did the technician quote you for? Which parts?
Possible leaking refrigerant from the compressor lines or compressor is not operating properly. Check to be sure compressor is not excessively hot, if it is you may have an issue with the compressor itself. Do you see any damage if you open the back of the fridge up and inspect?
Check the relay/cap at the back near the compressor. Most likely the compressor is not starting as one of these components are bad.
I hear clicking from my refrigerator and freezer and fridge is not getting cold I have a whirlpool model # W8RXNGMWDO2
Possible bad thermostat or temp setting assembly. Will need to troubleshoot with a multi-meter.
I have a whirlpool fridge side by side ..if I turn fridge side up my freezer will freeze if I turn down to 3 where the recommended temp is and even freezer to 5 my freezer don’t freeze and fridge start freezing all my food…why? But if I turn both to recommended Temps on controls it seems to not b that cool on fridge side and freeze doesn’t freeze ..
I have a Whirlpool Estate model TS25AFKQ04 side by side.
It is 7 or 8 years old. And has been working fine. The compressor was making a low “clunk” noise it shut off.
Everything seems to be working. The fans and compressor come on. They don’t click on and off excessively. Actually right not now the compressor doesn’t shut off at all.
There is cool air in the freezer and refrigerator but neither is what it should be.
I have checked the coils and they are clean. No ice build up on the inside coils either.
I purchased a new fridge today, got home and after a couple hours the new fridge is doing exactly what the old fridge was doing. The new fridge comes on for quite a while but the compressor is incredibly noisy. After the first time being on, it runs for 10 seconds then makes a loud click at the back and goes off. Should a brand new fridge be so loud? It sounds like a 20 year old fridge that is shaking to pieces. When i first plugged it in, it made the usual odd noises but now it can be heard outside. The fridge doesn’t seem to be cooling properly. It runs fine and gets cold. Then does the clicking and warms up again till 2 hours later then it runs a long cycle. Please any help in what this issue is would be much appreciated, this is driving me insane. I already had a fridge repairer look at it and quote more then the fridge is worth. Its a k.i.c 239l with fridge at the top and freezer at the bottom, its set on cold level 4.
Thanks for some very helpful info. Some confirmation to my gut feelings (or woman’s intuition) as to problem of too warm fridge. I have an older fridge with manual defrost.
I am using godrej double door refrigerator. Its Freezer is working fine but fridge is not cooling. i have check the FAN which is also working fine. if we open the freezer door cool air coming to fridge but once freezer door closed air is not passing to fridge. Can anyone suggest.
The most common reason for this is the freezer evap fan has stopped working. Replace the evap fan in the freezer and this should solve your issue.
I have a 9yr old Samsung RS267 side by side refrigerator. The freezer is keeping a constant temp however the refrigerator side is not cooling at all. What could be my problem?, and how do I fix it? Thank you for your time.
Can you tell us the model number of your Klimasan bottle cooler? If it is not cooling, check to be sure the compressor is turning on. The compressor is what cools the cooler. If it is not starting up the cooler will not cool. If the compressor does not start, it may be a bad relay or start capacitor that is the cause. Do some further troubleshooting and we can assist from there.
I have a Klimasan bottle cooler which is not getting cold.
Yes the evaporator is the fan in the freezer, and the condenser fan is near the compressor in the back of the fridge.
I think you’re right with respect to frozen lines – and I also think you might be on the right track with respect to the condenser fan (as I think it was the evaporator fan motor that I replaced).
Am I correct in saying that the condenser fan needs to be replaced?
A blinking temperature display on your Samsung refrigerator usually indicates:
A rising temperature OR a failure of the cooling system or a failure in the defrost circuits.
To Stop the Blinking:
The digital display blinks when the temperature rises. To stop the blinking keep the refrigerator doors closed for a few hours. When the refrigerator reaches the set temperature the blinking should stop. If the blinking does not stop, it generally indicates a problem with the refrigerator. The most common causes are either a failure of the cooling system or a failure in the defrost circuitry.
Have a Samsung fridge/ freezer, The freezer temp shows -22 deg. but the cooler temp light is flashing on
3 deg. Can you assist?
Make sure both fans are working. If the freezer is cool and the refrigerator portion is warm, check this page here to fix the fridge is warm but freezer is cool.
Be sure the fan in the freezer section is running. Have you made sure that the temp controls are set correctly? What else have you tried to get your Maytag refrigerator to cool properly?
My Maytag refrigerator is not cooling and I tried fixing it but it won’t budge. What should I do?
Hey, In need of extreme help! My refrigerator motor and fan is working, the freezer is cool, and the refrigerator part is hot, just happened, should I get some coolant?
We would suggest getting a multimeter so you are able to test the parts and determine what the exact problem is.
Be sure the fans are both running and turning obstruction free. Is the fan in the freezer section spinning at times? Please send us the model number of your Samsung refrigerator for us to help further.
Samsung frost free refrigerator not cooling. Compressor starts but not cooling.
The serial number of the fridge is 80243177, model number is BJ504Q-R.
As far as I can ascertain, the fridge only has one fan, that being the condenser fan located behind a panel in the freezer section.
Under both polarity configurations the fan seemed to spin in the same direction – i.e. once mounted, blowing air into the freezer chamber (which I presume is what it should be doing). Being an AC motor, I thought that changing the polarity would change the direction the fan spun but after careful checking it seemed to spin in the same direction under either polarity.
Temp controls may or may not be working. If I turn the temp controls right down, it does cut the compressor out, but, after a short time, it kicks back on and the controls are seemingly no longer functional. I turn them right up but again, after a day or two, the fridge and freezer are nowhere near cool enough and the compressor is extremely hot to the touch.
The replacement fan motor is an OEM part (6.7W) but supplied to me by an authorized Westinghouse (Electrolux) parts supplier here in Sydney.
I can’t test the thermo or relay as I don’t have a multimeter.
I don’t know the age of the fridge as I bought it second hand but I suspect it is over 10 years old.
It’s a strange problem. I’ve just plugged it back in again today after leaving it off all night and within 30 minutes, it is cooling both fridge and freezer very efficiently but the compressor is almost too hot to touch.
The clicking noise is most likely caused by a bad relay/cap that starts the compressor. Is the noise coming from the back of the fridge or?
If Sears WILL for sure be out by 1/5/16, that is some time from now. We would suggest to put the temp controls as COLD as possible. If the compressor is bad or not working at full capacity, trying to get it as cold as possible with the temp controls is the only option besides putting some of the food in the freezer section for some time and switching back and forth. This would be much work so maybe asking a neighbor to store some of your food, or this may be a good time to buy a used freezer or fridge on Craigslist and put it in the garage to use for the next few weeks.
Call Sears and ask them WHY it is going to take SO long. Most companies that are refrigerator appliance repair experts can get this fixed in one day.
We have a Kenmore Elite 795.7105, French doors with freezer on the bottom, purchased in May 2014. About a week ago we noticed the freezer wasn’t freezing. Called a local tech who diagnosed it as the compressor but said he couldn’t repair it if under warranty because it’s a Sears product and we have to go through them. He thought the refrigerator portion would be fine until it can be repaired. Sears came out on Saturday 12/19, same diagnosis, entire cost is covered by warranty, but they can’t get the part and someone out to repair it until 1/5/16. After another two days the refrigerator feels to us like it’s not cooling as well. Should we be concerned about the bad compressor affecting other parts and killing the refrigerator? Is there anything else we can do to keep it running and cool enough? We also happen to be hosting two family gatherings over Christmas, so this is pretty stressful. Thanks in advance!
My fridge is a Defy 360l water dispenser. I have a problem. It is not turning on, am not sure weather it is the thermostat or compressor and it has this clicking noise.
Please provide the model number for your KIC refrigerator so we can assist further.
I have a KIC supercool fridge, the freezer is working fine, but the refrigerator is not cooling at all. The light are off.
Check to be sure the fan in the freezer is operational and turning. This fan needs to be working to let the fridge portion cool.
Can you please tell me what to do? Facing an issue from yesterday with my refrigerator. Freezer is completely alright but the fridge is not cooling.
Frozen or partially frozen lines can cause a blockage. Which fan went dead, evap or cond? Did the fridge stop cooling as it should the moment the fan died? You replaced the fan motor and the new fan began making noise? You reversed the fan and it worked for a few days? Was the fan turning the wrong direction? Is the replacement fan motor an OEM part? Have you tested the temp controls to be sure there are no issues? Have you tested the thermostat? Have you checked to be sure there is nothing freezing up in the back of the freezer? Are the lines frozen? Have you tried a manual defrost? Can you give us the serial number of your fridge? How old is the fridge?
I have a Westinghouse BJ504 500ltr fridge which, upon until very recently, was working fine. Then it completely stopped cooling.
After a bit of detective work, I realized the fan motor was shot, so I bought a new motor part, installed it, and everything seemed fine – for a few days.
The fridge cooled perfectly – making me think that the compressor was functional – and the fridge maintained it’s temperature by kicking on and off according to the thermostat – which made me think that the thermostat was working fine too. After about 4 days, the fridge stopped cooling as it should and the new fan made a grinding noise. So, I pulled it apart again, reversed the polarity on the fan contacts, plugged it back in and, presto! Worked better than ever.
Then, a few days later again, it slowly began to stop cooling efficiently. I checked the compressor and it felt quite hot. Turned off for several hours then turned back on again. The drip tray, which was dry prior, filled with condensate (to be expected). Back on again and is working okay for the moment. I suspect there might be a blockage but I’m not completely sure whether I’m on the right track. My diagnostic routine suggests that the compressor and thermostat are okay, but, considering the fan motor died prior to these issues emerging, am I right that there might be a blockage? Or is it more serious?
You defrost timer may be faulty. The defrost timer is most likely on the control board. If your Samsung fridge is continuously defrosting in sync with every 6 to 8 hours, the defrost timer or control board is bad. Test with a meter or check the control board to see if you see any burn marks or popped capacitors.
It looks like a water leak. Water may be leaking into the freezer and causing the giant portion of ice to form. Have you checked for leaks in the water lines?
If all fans are working, the compressor is in perfect working order, and the cap and relay is good according to a check with a multimeter, then yes it MAY be leaking or the compressor needs r-134 refrigerant. Have you checked the cooling lines to make sure there is no leak or damage to the lines?
I own a Edgestar wine refrigerator CW361FD, It is about 2 years young. Recently I noticed the temperature on both the left and right sides begin to climb slowly until the refrigerator cools no more. All fans continue to be operational. The evaporators on both sides only showed signs of cooling on 20% of the evaporator. I performed an electrical check of the compressor and it read good. The relay and capacitor also read good. When I plug the unit I hear one click and the compressor begins to vibrate, hum, and slowly warm up (over time). While every where I read it is suggested that the refrigerant is usually not a cause of refrigerator problems, but in this case it seems to be the only item remaining to be checked. Suggestions?
My fridge (FFTR1814LMC) has been warming up a bit. The freezer is right around 32 degrees and the fridge portion is around 48 degrees. After removing the back panel in the freezer, I found that the right portion is frozen. The “coils” are not frozen but a pipe that comes from the bottom of the coil and runs along up the right side and by the temperature gauge is completely frozen over. I let everything thaw and checked on it a few days later and it was back to frozen. What could be causing that?
My 240 LTR double door Samsung refrigerator is defrosting automatically. The ice is freezing in the freezer but it melts after 6-8 hrs automatically. This cycle is continuously going on. Fridge is working properly.
If you have to bang on the temp setting console on your refrigerator to get the compressor to start, we would assume there is a wiring or component issue with the temp controls. Unplug fridge, remove cover for the temp controls and examine visually for a wiring issue. You may have to use a multimeter on some parts to see if they are functioning properly. It may just be a simple wiring issue that you can fix by reconnecting or retightening.
Can you put a thermometer in the fridge section to see what temp it is hitting with the fridge doors shut? Does it seem the drawer is blocking the air flow? Is the fan directly behind the drawer on your model refrigerator? If the air seems to flow properly when you open a drawer, is there many items in the drawer that may be causing an air flow blockage? Is the fridge getting cold enough or are you just concerned as you notice a change when you open the drawer a crack?
I have a Maytag Plus Refrigerator with a bottom drawer freezer; the freezer works fine, the fan blowing air from the freezer to the fridge appears to work fine, but when I check to see if cold air is getting into the fridge there is no air flowing, it appears, from the bottom freezer unless I open the bottom freezer drawer at least a crack. If I leave it open a crack, enough for air to flow directly into the freezer, it appears that cold air flows freely into the fridge as intended; I cannot test to see if, with both doors fully closed, the air flow is ok, but I suspect it is not since the fridge periodically stops getting cold.
Any thoughts? It seems like the kind of problem that, once solved, will seem obvious…just not to me.
My refrigerator works fine for some time but over time, it seems that the compressor does not come on. When i open the fridge door and bang on the top console (where the freezer and cooling settings are) with my fist a couple of times, I hear the compressor kick in and it starts cooling fine for a few hours. But next day, I see the fridge is not cold enough.
Sometimes, just increasing the cold setting does the trick, at time it does not work.
What could be the issue. Is it the thermostat that could be the issue?
Have you removed the back panel on the inside of the freezer? You more than likely have ice build up on the coils therefore it isn’t freezing in the freezer. Try that and see. Also, you can try fully manually defrosting the complete fridge for 24 to 48 hours. Then power back on and see if that gets it back to normal. If the ice is built up on the coils, defrosting it will melt it and clear any ice that is causing your issue.
Our fridge is cool and our freezer can barely freeze a glass of water. We put a glass in there and the top of the water finally froze after 5 hours. The fan is running all the time. We have cleaned the coils as well as clearing the drain. There is a bunch of frost on the back of the freezer as well, and help would be greatly appreciated.
Most refrigerators just powered up may take from 24 to 48 hours to make ice. Make sure the ice maker is getting water, getting power, and that the ice maker switch is turned on if applicable.
We waited the 24 hours and still didn’t get any action from the compressor, and I’d already tested both the compressor and capacitor with a multi-meter. Checked the start relay and it rattled when I shook it and smelled burnt. Replaced that, and now everything is running good – but the ice maker is not yet making ice. How long does that usually take?
Check out this article on how to fix a fridge that My Freezer Is Cold But The Refrigerator is Warm What To Check To Fix?
Can you please give us the model number to your Samsung fridge? In the meantime here is an article that should help you fix a refrigerator that fridge works but freezer is not.
I have a Samsung fridge/freezer. The top part is the fridge and the bottom freezer. The top is not working but the bottom is ice cold. Please assist.
I bought a used 2 door fridge and upper freezer is cooling very well but lower refrigerator part is not cooling. On maximum cool it is doing normal cooling. It is a medium size Sanyo refrigerator. Please tell me what to check and how to fix, i am just confused because freezer is working so why refrigerator lower part is not doing good cooling.
Can you supply us with a model number of your Samsung fridge? Also, which light is flickering on and off? The front panel is completely dead? No lights? Is the fridge cooling right now?
I have a Samsung Side by side Refrigerator. 7 years old and the light on both sides is flicking on and off with a ticking sound. Also the front Digital panel is gone blank.
If compressor keeps turning off either it is overheating or a component on the fridge is telling it to shut off. Do you have adequate spacing for the fridge to dissipate heat?
Please tell us make and model of your fridge. Do you have the temp settings correct? What exactly is the fridge doing now? Not cold? Fans running? Does compressor come on? Have you unplugged it and plug back in to see if you can reset??
Check that the fans are working. Check that the TEMP controls are set accordingly. If the fans are working, the temp is set correctly, the lights work in the fridge and freezer, you may have a bad start cap or relay. The start cap/relay start the compressor which gets your fridge cold. Test with a meter. If those parts are working it could be a control board issue or the compressor is not working properly. BE SAFE WHEN WORKING WITH ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS. UNPLUG WHEN CHECKING PARTS.
I have a GE profile refrigerator, the bottom freezer and the fridge won’t cool. Lights and control board works but no noise coming from the refrigerator and either freezer or fridge won’t cool, what could be the problem? Thank you.
My freezer just started crystallizing everything a day or two ago. Today I had to completely empty it because it is not staying cold. I think it is effecting the fridge part now too. I have vacuumed the coils and all around the bottom. The motor or something in the freezer side sounds like it is struggling to stay running towards the top of the freezer. It is empty and that doesn’t seem to have helped.
We have a Whirlpool side by side approx 10 years old, stopped cooling both freezer and fridge, fan runs but compressor keeps turning on and shutting of, any idea off what the problem could be?
So freezer is now working but the fridge section is not? Check this page to fix your fridge that has working freezer but not the refrigeration section.
I have a Kelvinator double door fridge which is not cooling. I checked the compressor, it is working fine so I changed new timer and now my fridge freezer is completely cooling and forming ice but other part is not cooling at all. What should i do?
After you tripped the breaker and turned up the cooling dial the fridge was working perfectly? Is that what you are saying? Is it still getting ice build up on the back of the refrigerator wall? If so, you may have an issue with the defrost timer, or thermostat. Can you supply us with make and model of your fridge?
We have an auto defrost fridge and am having ice build up on the back of the fridge wall, was told the unit is on it’s last leg. That said it’s been cooling/freezing fine till today. I was getting something out of it (opened) when it just turned, the cooling/freezing that is. I tripped the breaker and then turned up the level of the cooling. About an hour later (while I was transferring things to my fridge downstairs) it went back on and has been running since. Does this mean it is on it’s way out? Or are there things/options I should be doing instead?
The temp controls are fine but I will check into these other possibilities. Much appreciated.
Check to be sure your temp controls are set properly. Also if the freezer is freezing but the refrigerator is not cooling, make sure the the evaporator coils are not frosted over. Also be sure the evaporator fan motor is getting power. Also check the damper control assembly as this may be causing the fridge to not get cold.
Thanks for the reply RR. The freezer actually cools fine…everything in the freezer is still frozen. It is the fridge section that isn’t cooling at all. It stays at room temperature. Can this still be attributed to any of the suggestions you provided? I appreciate you taking time to respond.
You may have a faulty defrost control timer, a bad thermostat or a bad evaporator. This will prevent cooling to the freezer and fridge section can still work. An “on the fritz” compressor or a faulty main control board could also be the cause. Have you checked any of these?
You may have a faulty defrost control timer, a bad thermostat or a bad evaporator. This will prevent cooling to the freezer and fridge section can still work. An “on the fritz” compressor or a faulty main control board could also be the cause. Have you checked any of these? If you have replaced many parts and you know how to use a multimeter, then the control board may be your root cause. We had this exact issue with a new GE refrigerator and it was the main board. We removed and replaced and it was repaired.
I’m at a loss and any help is appreciated. I have a Thermador built-in KBUIT4250A02, side by side. 10-11 years old. Both freezer and refrigerator side slowly started getting warmer by the week. Food is still good, but ice cream started melting and created a sticky mess. Did all the research and tests, replaced compressor start relay and capacitor with OEM parts. Compressor kicked on, but freezer will not go below 18 degrees (set at 0), therefore the ice-maker works intermittently. Refrigerator section is good and will stay where its set (set at 37). Compressor runs really hot to the touch. All fans are working, coils are very clean, no frost, no vent or drain blockage, thermostat and defroster shows continuity with no apparent damage.
This looks like a very helpful group. I have a two year old Samsung RF220NCTASR refrigerator and the fridge component no longer cools. The bottom freezer works, the compressor is running the fan turns and the lights (including the temperature setting indicators) in both the fridge and freezer sections work. It is just the fridge cooling feature. Any insights on the problem and suggestions for repair are welcome. I live in a remote, rural town and the technicians are too busy in the city to come out.
More than likely the main board is shot. If the fans, compressor, and lights work, then usually a small cap or component on the board is bad. We are assuming the compressor is working as you say it is warm. We had this same issue in our newer GE fridge freezer and after changing multiple parts, the board was the cause.
Have you tried a manual defrost to see if that MAY reset it? This may work for awhile but if the main board is bad or on the fritz, it may happen again. If you have checked all other components, then change the board.
My Samsung RS2577sl Refrigerator/Freezer stopped working yesterday. Both Refrig and Freezer stopped cooling. The fan in the back is working and the compressor tank is warm/hot but seems normal. what can cause both the freezer and frig to stop cooling? What can I do to figure out what needs to be replaced?
Usually ice build up on a refrigerator compressor lines means the compressor was serviced lately and was overfilled with R134a. Have you recently had your fridge serviced? Do you live in a high humid area? Is the door seal fully sealing the freezer and fridge? Was the door left open for some time?
Have a whirlpool fridge, about 15 years old, the tubes coming off of the compressor have a lot of ice build up on them, what is this a sign of? everything seems to be working, as far as food being kept cold….
If the fan in the freezer is NOT running, and you see ice in the drain hole… You most likely have a frozen drain tube which can cause the fridge section to not be as cool as intended. See our page on Freezer drain tube frozen troubleshooting. What make and model is your fridge?
My freezer is freezing but fridge is not cooling enough it is cold but not that cold!
I do not hear the fan running I saw some ice in tiny hole by the fan….what could it be ?
Have you tried a 24 hour manual defrost? Many times that will reset and fix your problem. Try it and see for the sake of saving money and time replacing parts that are not bad.
As far as i can tell the compressor is working OK. It sounds fine and the fridge went down to normal temps one time when I unplugged for 20 minutes and plugged it back in. However, now it seems to not be able to get back to below the 20/40 degree levels.
If you have replaced multiple parts and your fridge still does not work properly, make sure temp controls are set correctly, have you made sure the fans are running, freezer not over filled, checked compressor? Most likely compressor is on the fritz. Check the compressor to see if it is working as intended.
I have a 10+ year old GE Artica Side by Side refrigerator (model PSI23SGMCFBS) that hasn’t been working properly for 6+ months. The freezer wont get below 20 degrees and the refrigerator wont get below 40 degrees. I have cleaned the coils and the compressor fan is working. I have replaced the main control board, the Defrost Limiter Thermostat and the Temperature sensor in the freezer compartment that is attached to the evaporator. I think there may be other temperature sensors in the refrigerator section that I have not replaced. The compressor gets very hot which I assume is normal?
Most likely bad thermostat or compressor, use a multi meter to find the issue or better off replacing.
Tried unplugging for 24 hours, no go. Still on but not cooling. Any other suggestion before replacing?
Try unplugging it for 24 hours. Plug back in after 24 hours and see if it begins to run properly. Unplugging it can reset a board or other.
I don’t have a multimeter. The compressor is quite hot to the touch though.
What did you hit with the hammer? Just the inside of the fridge to get the ice off? You may have damaged a thermostat or a board…. possibly the cap or relay near the compressor is shot. Do you have a multimeter?
I have a Kitchen Aid 564.93445100 Mini Fridge. It was working fine the other day before I defrosted it. I did use a hammer to gently knock of thick ice. Perhaps I did something but I cannot see anything out of place, could you suggest what to check?
Most likely there is a bad relay or capacitor. These parts start the compressor to cool the fridge. If it was a display model refrigerator it may have been banged around and therefore has inoperable parts.
Be sure to check that you have not inadvertently set your Whirlpool fridge into manual defrost. CALL THE STORE ASAP TO GET THEM TO CALL REPAIR SERVICE OR TO REPLACE YOUR FRIDGE.
Your site is a problem solver. It is a do it yourself indeed. I am more than grateful.
I have a brand new Whirlpool WRS325FDAW side by side that was delivered Friday. It was working fine Friday evening and yesterday morning. Noticed yesterday afternoon that the fridge and freezer are no longer working. What little bit of ice had been made has since melted. Since it’s the weekend, I can’t call their customer service. Lights are on inside and outside but no cooling or freezing and I don’t even hear it running. My biggest concern right now is all of my granddaughter’s insulin needs to be kept refrigerated. Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!!! As a side note, this was a display model, but was never plugged in at the store where I purchased it.
Does that mean the fan does not spin or turn on when installed in the freezer? Can you see it turning when installed? Make sure the fan is getting power IN THE FRIDGE/FREEZER. If you test it out of the fridge, you still need to test where the fan plugs in to to see if it is receiving power. So use a meter there and be sure it is receiving power. If that is not the issue then possible thermostat or board issue if the fans are working properly. Have you tried a manual defrost of the complete fridge to see if that resets or corrects an issue? Many times completing a manual defrost resets the board or other and fixes the problem but not a guarantee.
I have an Amana Model AFD2535DEW. The lower freezer compartment works (so the compressor is fine) but not the upper refrigerator area, in that it does not become cold. I removed the fan that brings cold air from the freezer compartment into the Fridge compartment and tested it. It works fine if I connect it to a power source. So the problem is not the fan. What should I check next?
Yes the relay could cause this if it was sparking. If the fans are working, and the display fridge runs you may also have a compressor issue. What is the make and model of your display fridge? Is it made by TRUE?
I am trying to investigate the problem with a display fridge in my cafe. When I start it in the morning, it cools down the temperature to 6-9 deg C, however after 3-4 hours of running, it starts to rise up to 14-15 deg c. The fans are working. I have noticed the compressor noise is relatively louder when I start the fridge in the morning, however after a few hours when it starts losing temperature, it is a lot quieter. There is very little heat descipated through the compressor area. Turning off the fridge and waiting for a while sometimes get it cooling again for a while. I had detected a loose connection between the relay and cooling fans, which was causing sparks, however I have rewired the loose connection – however just wondering if it could affect relay’s performance? Could a bad relay cause this behavior? The cooling fans start at the time compressor kicks in.
The overload relay is a combined part and plugs directly onto the side of the compressor. It should come off by pressing a small metal or plastic mount to pop it off. A small plastic or metal housing may need to be removed first. Remember power to the fridge needs to be unplugged before servicing!
How do I remove the overload relay on my Samsung RF217ACPN? Thank you!
Have you checked to be sure the fans are running? If the fans are both working and the freezer is okay, you may have an issue with the freezer where it is not able to pass cold air into the fridge. You may need to inspect the back of the freezer to be sure the air flow is as designed. You could also have a thermostat / defrost issue. Have you replaced any parts in the past besides manually defrosting?
Check that the compressor is turning on. Check capacitor or relay next to compressor to be sure the components are in working order.
I have a Frigidaire side by side with a french door. I plugged it in… Let it stay on for a few days… Lights and everything works. But it won’t get cold.
I have a Samsung SRS2229 the freezer works okay but the fridge side is cold at the bottom (frozen behind the draws), hot at the top and not blowing cold air. I defrosted the unit and worked for about two weeks and the problem started again. Should i change the thermo fuse and the sensor?
I have a LG gs73s63cef and it isn’t cooling, i hear clicking sounds, i check the compressor and it gets hot… the fan won’t start but i don’t know if it is actually the fan because i use the multimeter to test its pins and there’s not any voltage, so maybe the fan is good but doesn’t have current to start, also i checked the circuit diagram and it has a test button which i run, and it says, according to some leds, that the defrost is faulty, and freezer and refrigerator upper shelf sensors are both cut or short circuited. when i stick my ear to the door i hear a very low vibrating noise like it was cooling… but nothing.
As long as you have a decent multimeter anyone can test a refrigerator compressor. Here is a video that explains in detail… How to Test the Compressor on your Refrigerator
I don’t know how to test the compressor , how difficult is it to do ?
If everything is clean and all components seem to be running normally, you may have an issue with the compressor. Have you tested it with a meter to see if it is working properly?
Vents are unblocked as I emptied both fridge and freezer, coils are clean, and temps are digitally set to 33 and -6 for freezer. I turned breaker on and off to start cooling, it took about 1.5 hours to cool freezer to 40 and fridge just under 60. Over the next 2.5 hours the fridge dropped to 58 and freezer to 38, afterwards both temps started to rise.
Refrigerator condenser coils and around compressor is clean? No dirt dust buildup? Temp control dials are set correct?
Fans are running? There is not a mass amount of food blocking fan vent in freezer?
How much time passes before the fridge and freezer rise in temp?
I have a 16 month old LG model LFX25978 that will not cool properly. The freezer will get to 35 and fridge 58, then both temps rise to 50 in freezer and 60 fridge. I have turned off at breaker and will cool to the same temps of 35 and 58 and then rise again. I have repeated this reboot process at lest 20 times with always the same results. Please advise.
The relay does buzz for about 10-20 seconds then clicks. I did just plug it back in after sitting for a week plus, so will check it tomorrow morning. The model number is GLHS268ZDW4. Thanks for the help and any more advice you may have.
We would suggest replacing the cap or the relay that runs the compressor. A bad relay or cap may be creating the buzzing sound. Sometimes it may work and other times it may not. When it does not, the compressor will not start therefore no cooling is produced. Test it with a meter or have a repair person test it for you.
I have a Whirlpool side by side. Bought the house 25 years ago with the refrigerator in it. Over the last year it has been making loud buzzing noise for a short time and stops. I was gone for 3 weeks and came home to everything in freezer thawed (chicken and fish) YUK. Cleaned it out and played with temp switches put them up full blasted. It is now working but not sure if I should trust it. Being as old as it is Should I get someone to look at it or just buy a new one. Know nothing about fixing it.
The fan is behind the back freezer panel. A few screws should be holding the panel on. There should be a vent where the air flows, it is behind that.
To test the relays or capacitor, see this page for How to test a capacitor.
I don’t see any fan, the thing is all sealed up not a lot of access. But I don’t hear any thing that sound’s like a working fan.
For testing the relay’s not to sure how to do it or what to test.
If you HAVE put the fridge into manual defrost, then yes it SHOULD make the defrost tubing warm to allow defrost. Have you tested the cap and relay with a meter? Are the coils clean?
Make sure the relay is not buzzing. If so then replace. Shutting off the power by mistake may have thrown off the timing. Plug the fridge back in and wait 24 hours to see exactly what may be occuring. What is the model number of your fridge?
Check at the back of the wine cellar. It is possible a relay or cap is not working properly.
Does the fan run and blow air?
I have a Sanyo wine cellar 45 bottles with dual temp controller. Compressor starts get’s hot but there is no cooling inside the wine cellar.
I have a Frigidaire Gallery that quit working the other day. Both Fridge and Freezer not getting cold. I put it in the garage, removed the back and vacuumed and blew all the dust out and it worked great yesterday. Had it plugged into a plug that works runs the garage lights and when we turned off the lights that turned off power to unit, so this morning turned it back on and now it is not cooling again. I can hear the relay click, compressor starts to buzz for about 10 seconds then kicks off. Compressor also hot.
I have a Maytag refrigerator that is not freezing or cooling the other side. It is a side by side. Replaced the Overload that plugs into the compressor. It was bad after taking it off, the old one sounded like a rattle put the new one on with the new capacitor and thought for sure I would be up and run. The fans are running all free from dust build up. There was no ice build up on the defrost tubing. The compressor sounds like its working it’s only warm to the touch. One thing that I was wondering from research was that if you put the fridge manually into defrost mode the defrost tubing is suppose to get Hot they are not is this my problem or not.
Yes, thank you. the refrigerator section is working fine.
The technician came back, ruled out the problem is being caused by the newly installed relay. Its a generic one… Now we have to find a genuine LG part. Thanks for the input.
The relay starts the compressor. If the compressor was not working at all, then the tech replaced the relay and it worked, then possibly the new relay is faulty. Do you know if the relay was a genuine LG fridge part or a generic relay?
Is the refrigerator section cold and working properly?
If you have a thermometer, put it in the freezer to find out exact temp.
Call tech back and let them know your issue. They should realize it is a faulty part they installed and come back and fix for free.
The condenser fan is running but the compressor does not start?
It could be the compressor but first test the relay/capacitor that actually starts the compressor.
Do you have a multimeter or were you inspecting visually?
The cheapest way, but no guarantee of a fix, would be to just replace the relay/cap.
If that does not fix your issue, then most likely it is the compressor.
I have a 6 year old Samsung RSA1 fridge. The controls all seem to work but no cooling.
I opened the back and the fan next to the compressor works but nothing from the compressor itself which is very hot.
There is no clicking or ticking on switch on but the capacitor and relay look OK (termination clean/ no rattling).
Do you think it is the compressor itself that is gone?
We have a 10-yr old LG fridge. the compressor stopped running so we had a technician checked on it and discovers its a faulty relay, replaced it yesterday and the compressor came back up. several hours later, we realized the freezer isn’t freezing water at all despite adjusting thermostat to max (can’t make ice-cubes). Though its blowing cold air inside. The compressor would run only for a few seconds then turns off for several minutes and it gets too hot to the touch. please help.
It should take 24 hours. Make sure you have the refrigerator temp dials at the correct temp.
I have a Whirlpool French Door Model Number GI6FARXXY08 freezer. Works fine cools down to 10 degrees but fridge only cool down to 40-50. Put a new damper how long should it take to cool fridge down.
Your tenant is putting in so much food that the fan in the freezer is unable to disperse the cold air around evenly. You could try using a larger more modern fridge freezer if the tenant keeps overfilling. Tell them to simply keep items away from where the fan is or vent (in freezer at back) and that may solve the issue. If you can buy them a new fridge, get a bottom freezer top fridge model if possible. These are a good fridge for people who PACK the freezer.
My tenant has a 28″ fridge/freezer that worked fine when freezer is not stuffed. New tenant keeps stuffing freezer and it freezes over and fride and freezer don’t get cold enough. If I replace with another 28″ will I have same problem? Do all freezers this size work this way? Or is something wrong with it? Maybe they just need a bigger freezer?
So your Samsung refrigerator has NO POWER?
i am having a samung double door fridge 2011 model . its completely dead i checked for timer but i found nun . i found only one circuit board behind the fridge in which i found a switch i turned it to both sides then also its not working there is no light ,compressor not working not even the fan motor running how to check is the board working or not or where to check the board output
You may have a blocked drain tube. A blocked drain line MAY cause ice up, therefore this can cause your fridge to not cool properly. Check your manual for instructions. What is the Model number?
My Kitchenaide bottom freezer fridge is icing up. Understand I need to replace duck bill. However fridge part is not cooling anymore. Could this ice up be the problem with the fridge?
Does the compressor start and run at all? What is the model number of your Maytag refrigerator?
My 10 yr old Maytag dual cool side-by-side will not cool or freeze. I’ve replaced the starter relay kit, and was instructed by a service tech to ohms check the 3 compressor pins to ground, nothing showed, he said the compressor should be good. I still hear the click and hum for a few seconds from the relay.
Does the compressor come on at all even though it shows power going through it? Have you tested cap or relay that starts compressor? Usually those can go bad and compressor will not start.
If you just plugged it in, it needs about 24 hours to get to temp. Make sure the refrigerator temperature control dials are set correctly. Also, what do you mean by “Shifted”? Did you move the fridge or just unplug it?
Can you confirm your model number on the LG fridge? It seems to be a few digits off. Reply back and we can assist to troubleshoot.
Is the compressor getting the correct voltage? Does the amperage vary? Compressor could be on the fritz. Do some more troubleshooting and see what you can come up with. What is the model number?
Check fan and make sure there is not heavy ice or frost on the back of freezer. You may need to do a manual defrost. What is the model number of your Samsung?
I have a Samsung freezer bottom portion is not cool. I removed two screws at the top portion and removed ice, right side also heating but not cooling bottom portion.
I have a Frigidaire all fridge upright model about 7 yrs. old. Everything seems to be working but the fridge stopped cooling. The fridge is clean, the lights turn on fan runs, temp switch looks good and the compressor turns on but only draws 0.5 amps whereas it normally draws around 1.1A. I have an identical fridge and have been comparing.
I have a old refrigerator, model LG fresh zone rc-b23ad. Compressor, evaporator fan are run easily, temp switch is colder but evaporator coil or plate no ice. Not getting enough cool air by cooling fan. Please reply what’s the solution.
I have a fairly new fridge about 2 years old.. we just shifted was working fine when I left, plugged it in at new place and lights work but no cold at all in fridge or freezer. Had hot smell coming from freezer when opened it.. Cannot hear fan running at all and no clicking noise like u mentioned.. plz help.
Fan is running but compressor is not. Meter shows juice going to compressor though. All was clean
Did the storm knock out the power?
Be sure the fans (evap and condenser) work. Make sure the coils are not clumped with dust and dirt. Clean the bottom back of fridge (where compressor is) so air can flow easily. Be sure to unplug when doing any maintenance or cleaning when at the back of the fridge. You may have to remove a small panel behind the fridge to access the area. Is the compressor turning on at all?
I have a Frigidaire French Door Refrigerator Model FFHB2740PS bought December 2013. During the storm last night the freezer temp began to rise. As it continued, we decided to remove food. The frig part was maintaining 37 degrees as it has from day one UNTIL this morning. The frig is running however not cooling. I have read some of the comments and when I get home will pull the frig out and make sure clean and check to make sure all is running ok. I left it unplugged this morning. Any suggestions as to what may be the culprit?
Thanks for your great site/page. I was able to troubleshoot and fix my fridge with a quick flip of the breaker. Saved me tons of $$ and stress!
Can you tell us make and model of your refrigerator? Is both evap fan in freezer running and condenser fan near compressor running? Have you tested to see if the start relay or cap that starts the compressor is in working order? Use a meter and test the capacitor.
my fridge/freezer is not cooling! The fan inside is running. No sound or whatever is coming from the compressor!! What could be the problem?
You can test to be sure the compressor is getting the correct voltage with a meter. If it is and you are sure the board, the start relay (or capacitor) are in working order, then you most likely have a bad compressor.
I defrosted it hoping that the issue was caused by the ice in the freezer. Well, it is not food dependent. I haven’t seen anything unusual like cold air, noises, etc. Doors are fine. Temp controls are set correctly. The only thing that may not be as always is that the compressor (on the left side, the one that I am guessing is responsible for the freezer) is a bit too hot. Before defrosting I tried to reboot it by switching it off entirely for several minutes. Did not work. It’s just the freezer doesn’t get to the set temp of -20C. It’s -16C now and it has taken it about 30 hours to get to this point whereas in the past it did it from the room temp to -20C in a couple of hours. It does not react to the super frost button. Any diagnostic technique that I can use?
It may be possible it needs more time to freeze depending if it is empty or has food in it.
Did you defrost it because of the issue and now it is doing the same thing or did the manual defrost cause this?
The fan is running and the temp controls are set correctly, yes?
Are the door seals to the freezer in perfect shape?
Is there any cool air escaping that you can find?
If the freezer is working properly and the fridge is just cool, not cold, then you may have a blockage issue. Be sure the fan (evaporator fan) in your freezer is turning. Make sure there is not anything blocking the airflow. Also, be sure the refrigerator temperature control dials are set properly. What is the model number of your Defy side-by-side?
I have a Defy side by side double door fridge the freezer works properly and freezes. The refrigerator is just cool not getting cold at all, there is a noise but it sounds like the normal refrigerator noise I’m not sure if it’s the Gas or compressor.
My Liebherr KGTes 4066 doesn’t keep the temperature in the freezer section. The fridge section works fine. I defrosted it and switched on again. It has reached – 13C over the last 24 hours (set to -25C).
What would be your advice? Thanks.
If top freezer, it is behind rear panel in freezer.
If side by side, it is under the very bottom drawer in freezer.
EVAPORATOR FAN (MOTOR)…
In rear of the freezer (either side by side or top bottom)
I cannot find a service manual for the unit. Where are the drain tube and fan located inside the freezer?
Check drain tube in freezer for blockage and also fan in freezer. Make sure no blockage and fan is running and not blocked.
The model number is LG LSC26905tt. Some further observations: When the unit stops working, the compressor seems still running, but no cool in refrigerator. The exterior of the refrigerator portion also does not feel hot anymore (the freezer exterior still feels hot).
Check the freezer drain hole. It is most likely frozen over. See this page for fix a freezer drain line.
I have a pretty old kenmore side by side. First thing I noticed was a huge iceberg in the bottom of my freezer so I shut off the water to the water and ice maker and cleared out the ice. It did the same thing again even with the water off. Then I noticed my fridge wasn’t getting very cold even with it turned up all the way, there was also a big puddle of water in the bottom of the fridge side and I cleaned that out, then I noticed that both the compressor and fan weren’t kicking on and off, they were constantly running. Now my fridge isn’t cold at all but the freezer is still working fine. The freezer is set at the normal setting and working fine, yet the fridge is turned up all the way, the fan constantly running yet it isn’t cold at all and nothing is blocking the vent either!
Usually that signifies a main control board problem. We would need to have the complete model number to assist you further but what you have described is usually a control board.
A LG side-by-side freezer/refrigerator. It quits cooling a couple of days ago. When the problem happened, the temperature setting display also went out (partially for freezer and completely for refrigerator), and the buttons stopped working. Then I unplugged the unit, waited for about 24 hrs and plugged it back again. The unit appears to start cooling again, and the temperature setting also turned normal. However, within less than 12 hrs, the unit failed again. After the second failure, I simply unplugged and plugged it back without waiting, and the unit was back working again. So the unit appears to be working, but only for a limited time and then requires a reset somehow.
I had a technician come and look at it today. He said it was a bad compressor. He said he would add a kickstart to it for $200 but there was a 10 percent chance it wouldn’t work. I told him to go ahead and do the kick start, After about 20 minutes he told my wife it didn’t work. That I needed a new compressor and it would cost me $800.
Have you checked to see if the capacitor and or relay is working properly? Here is how to test a capacitor on a fridge.
Refrigerator model number LRSC26925TT. There is air coming out the Vents but its not cold. The compressor is not hot.
Do you mean there is no air coming through the vents or there is no cool air coming through the vents? Do the fans turn? Is the compressor hot to the touch? What is your LG refrigerator model number?
I have an lg refrigerator that’s about 7 years old. Two days ago it stopped cooling. There is no air coming out the vents. The compressor seems to be working fine. I think it might be the main board. Any advise would help.
Have you checked the dials or sliders to make the temp colder? Also check to be sure all fans are working and nothing is blocking airflow.
Try turning the temp down for the freezer section. It may not be freezing therefore unable to make ice cubes and not being able to freeze.
I have LFX25976ST 5 years old, Its melting the ice in freezer, Coils are clean, fan is working, compressor is hot and is working quiet, Inside in fridge and freezer is blowing cold air.
I have a Godrej double door refrigerator in which freezer is cooling properly but at the bottom where we store milk, food or vegetable there is no cooling. I changed timer, bimetal and also charged gas. Problem was not cleared what should i do?
If the financial math makes sense by putting in a new compressor instead of buying a new fridge, then go with the new compressor. Seems like there may be another issue as many things you have told us do not make complete sense. Make sure to ask the repair person if after installing a new compressor, if the same problem persists, if you get a full refund. It is their responsibility to be the professional appliance technician and troubleshoot your refrigerator issue correctly. If they put a new part on that has nothing to do with your fridge issue, and does nothing to fix the issue, you should have them remove the new part and replace it with the old one. If the compressor is bad then the next step is to replace it. But as we said earlier, is it worth having an old refrigerator with a new compressor or a brand new refrigerator (with a warranty) by paying a little more money?
Why would a shot of freon get the temperature down in both the freezer and the fridge IF the compressor is bad??? Do compressors fail gradually? Seems like they either work or they don’t? First visit he did the all new lines after finding the frost on the copper line at one point, fired it up and left. He said at the point of the frost the coolant was not getting through the line they were cold and warm. Back the following Sunday checks for a leak, puts in more freon but tells my husband if that doesn’t do it then it is the compressor???? I ran it for an hour myself and checked the temperature of the very quiet compressor and it was not running hot. The air blowing is still cool although not cold. Significantly warmer than after the shot of freon. Why would a shot of freon help a failing compressor? Could it be stuck in defrost or is it just too difficult to detect a leak? No, he did not check the control board on the back of the fridge. Just very puzzled. He is putting in a new compressor not rebuilt.
A build up of ice can mean a defrost issue. Has the repairman checked any other components of the refrigerator besides the compressor? If the compressor is running, was shot with more freon, new copper lines welded, then possibly there is a small leak that they are unable to detect? What company are you using to do these repairs? Do they warranty their work? Are they giving you a rebuilt or brand new compressor if you choose to replace it?
LG fridge bottom Freezer model LBN22515. Put on it’s side when delivered and caused the compressor to lock up run hot and fail. Replaced by repairman then did not cool enough. Came back out welded it if I remember correctly those copper lines. Fast forward 2+ years and stopped cooling again and had some frost on the copper lines at the compressor and they were cold. New repair guy said that the refrigerant was not getting through so another new dryer copper lines etc. left thinking it was fixed. Came back when everything melted again in freezer & fridge too warm (3 days top) gave it a shot of freon then freezer refroze everything but then quit cooling again. NOW he says the compressor is bad but skeptical as it is running but not hot. Fans running. However this freezer has always built up ice on the back wall underneath the air duct. Do I need a compressor?
If you live in the Middle East, right now it is super hot. So then yes the compressor is working hard to keep things cool. Where is the fridge located? How much food is in the refrigerator? Is the freezer freezing? What is the temp of the room the refrigerator is in?
So the freezer is not freezing but the refrigerator is producing ice on the walls? Please confirm.
I have an Ariston BCB 313/B GE. Sometimes in summer freezer doesn’t cool and refrigerator wall is full of ice. I try to defrost some times. It works for some days and begin again. When this happen i see abnormal freezer heating alarm a2.
The compressor sound is normal but after defrost it has a loud different sound.
Is it normal for a new compressor to go on about 17-18 hours per day?
If your LG refrigerator is only 3 months old and your compressor is going bad, then call the company that sold it to you. It should be under warranty for at least a year.
If the ice cubes are not freezing, then the freezer is not cold enough. Try turning the temperature dial on your freezer to make it colder.
Mine is not making ice. I do not know why this is happening, because you can hear it working, the light inside is on but the problem is that its not freezing.
My LG refrigerator model is SX-P432S
Because i am in Iran then our model numbers are different from yours.
The refrigerator is only 3 Months old.
At first month Compressor didn’t work like now.
That just means once you have the fridge and freezer dials temperature set, do not touch it for 24 hours. The manual is saying the refrigerator needs 24 hours to actually get to the temp you have set. After those 24 hours pass, you can change the temp controls to colder or warmer depending on your needs.
Gss20iemb ww. Thanks I looked at board n found that someone has been soldering on part of it .underside coils are clean also.
It sounds as if the fridge is working as designed. The click is the relay, and the drip is the water hitting the pan at the bottom of the fridge. The compressors different sounds may mean it is struggling to work properly. How old is your refrigerator? What is the model number?
Possible control board or cap / relay issue. Can you provide model number?
My GE side by side will cool to desired temp then cut off and then the compressor will not come back on till I unplug it or turn temp setting to zero for bout 10 minutes. After 10 minutes it will then cool to desired temp then cut off again n won’t start back up till I repeat process.
My 32cu ft LG side by side refrigerator is working and freezer and fridge are cold, but i feel something is wrong.
1-The compressor goes on about every 15 and stay on 30-35. Is it normal?
2-Sometimes I hear a clicking sound from back/up side of fridge part and then some strange sounds like a roach is moving inside a box and falling water drops on a hot plate is heard from back of freezer side. After that again a clicking sound and then compressor goes on but with a louder and different sound from all the time.
This situation repeat about two or may be 3 times a day. What is this? Is there any problem to call for a repairman?
3-After any power failure when refrigerator starts working, a cliking sound is heard too. Is it normal?
I just had a frigidaire refrigerator installed this evening and I increased the temperature controls and then read in the book that I should not touch them for 24 hours. Will this cause a problem and if so how can I fix it?
Yes, open the back and check the evap fan for proper operation. Be sure there is no heavy ice frosting behind the freezer rear panel. If your fridge is not blowing any cold air obviously it could be the compressor or bad board/defrost assembly, or other. We would recommend finding your owners manual for your older fridge. Here is a page with the parts for your Sears (Kenmore) Refrigerator that you may need. As you can see there are multiple electrical components in your older fridge that may have gone bad. Have a look, and if you find a component to be bad you can order online.
I have a Sears 253.74802406 SN:BA53208356 with a mfg. date of 08/05 located in a fruit cellar basement. The freezer seems to be working but the refrigerator is not. All of the coils in back are clean. No coils under and very clean. Compressor seams to be working/cycling on and off…Not short cycling. I think that cold air is suppose to come down in the rear from the freezer? I can’t seem to feel any. I can feel blowing air in the freezer rear. Do you remove that plastic rear plate to check for blockage? Where is the air suppose to come from and go into the Ref? Where is the air return from the refrigerator to the fan? I don’t see any ports?
There is a plastic assy. on the ref. Top with a temp adjustment and the light switch and maybe the cold air discharge vents in the rear? Does this come out to clean or check the port?
Seems to be the best option at this point. Let us know if that solves your issue.
Refrigerator is Model # 10658943800 – Kenmore Side-By-Side Refrigerator with seven years of use.
Should I proceed to change the evap heater?
If evap is constantly getting iced over, yes a new evap heater may be your answer. How old is the refrigerator and what is the model number?
Check to be sure fans are running. This is a common cause when a freezer is working normally and a refrigerator is not. Check this page to read more on fridge warm and freezer cold.
I have a four year-old Samsung side by side. The freezer side is cold and everything in it is frozen as it should be. The refrigerator side is warmer than it should be. The setting is on max (I moved it since I noticed that it was not as cool as it should be), the door is shutting properly, and it is not making in odd noises. What might the problem be — any ideas?
I have a side-by-side Kenmore refrigerator. Evaporator is getting iced every three days affecting the fridge side temperature. Control board was changed and the bimetal thermostat, still iced after three days. I checked the heater resistance with a digital meter and a 25.2 ohms reading was detected. Any advice about how to proceed, please? Should I replace the evaporator heater? Thanks.
As of right now, is the refrigerator / freezer still not working? If not please let us know model number and we can assist further.
I have a whirlpool refrigerator and the other day we had a power failure that lasted about 12 hours and when the power came back on my refrigerator and freezer would not get cold
Which fan, the condenser fan or evaporator fan? To test the cap for the refrigerator compressor, here is page that will explain how.
I have a old fridge / freezer that just stopped cooling both. The fan starts to run for a couple seconds and stops and cycles on again and stops. I cleaned the whole thing up and still does the same? How do you test relay and or cap?
Make sure the FAN in the freezer is running and allowing cold air to enter the fridge section. If fan is not running replace fan. Read Fridge is Warm Freezer is Cold here for more info.
I have PEL fridge …….freezer (top) is working but refrigerator (bottom) is not working properly…. today i have changed the compressor start relay but nothing change.
You never said if the fridge compartment is operating normally. Is it both fridge and freezer or just freezer not working?
I have a Maytag Fridge Model – M/G32526PEKS (bottom Mount 734LT S/steel), the freezer on the bottom is not working. I was told to turn the whole fridge off for 24 hrs so it would reset. We did this and it looked like it was freezing up but then we checked it again and its not. Its very quite normally this fridge makes some noises. Not sure what to do or if you have any suggestions?? Lights on in the fridge… let me know what I can do before I call anyone. Many thanks for your help
Sounds like a cap or relay that controls compressor. Easy fix.
Most likely either cap or relay. That is usually the issue when the fridge and freezer work for awhile and a short time later fails to cool.
Remove the complete temp controller and see if a part is broken or bad. Remember to unplug fridge when you remove it. Once you see which part is bad you could try to fix yourself or order a new part.
Very likely the problem is a bad compressor starter (relay). This is very common and should be replaced. It is inexpensive and easy to replace. Here is the part for your Amana refrigerator that is MOST likely bad.
Be sure the top freezer is not so filled it is blocking the fan. This fan is what pushes cold air into the fridge. Here is a page that will explain in full detail. Freezer cold, fridge warm.
I have an LG 710LT Fridge/freezer. The Freezer (TOP) is freezing and works perfect, however the fridge is not cooling, The lights and everything is working. We refilled gas and had several technicians out but no success. Please assist.
A neighbor gave us her Amana refrigerator because our’s recently died. She said it needed a new part but couldn’t remember what it was called (she said it was called something like a “heat thermal”). We plugged it in and it worked beautifully….for a couple of days. Yesterday, it started making a clicking noise and would hum for a minute then click again. It would do this every 3 or 4 minutes. The freezer isn’t cold at all and now the fridge is heating up. My husband checked the compressor and said that it was hot. Do you think it could be the compressor or some other problem? The Model # is ARB2217CW. I would appreciate any suggestions! Thanks.
The temperature controller button of my fridge is jammed.
I have a 2000 whirlpool fridge. I replaced the relay last year. Now the freezer and fridge wont cool. The coils were dirty so i cleaned them and I unplugged it for 2 hours because the compressor felt real hot. Plugged it back in and the fridge worked. Now 24 hours later its not working. Lights are on and the fan is running. Could that be the capacitor or something else? The fridge also has a defrost mode and some type of moisture control also.
fans are all running but compressor not taking on frigerator on top freezer on bottom
Could be a multitude of things. What is the model number and is it working properly now?
Have a Haier 20 cu ft refrigerator. It stopped cooling for a week and had temperatures of 65 degrees for six days. Then one day it “magically” started working again (temps to 42 degrees). What would cause such a thing?
A repairman I had look at it had no answer. Just said someone must have left the door open and it had to reset itself. It would take THAT long? Really?
Can you explain what do you mean by ‘too much narrow long tube cold n wet’. We do not comprehend what info you are trying to rely.
Does the fridge stay at temp? What is model number of your Whirlpool refrigerator?
Here is a Whirlpool Top Mount Refrigerator model ET0MSRXTQ00 parts list of the parts that COOL your fridge. You may need to test the relay. The relay should click to start compressor. If compressor is always hot, then yes maybe compressor is shot. The fan may always be on as it is trying to get to temperature.
I was given a Whirlpool Top Mount Refrigerator model ET0MSRXTQ00. I was told it was hardly used but worked fine. I plugged it in. The light goes on. I hear the fan in the freezer. All of the coils are clean. I can feel the compressor vibrate (makes me think it is working). After turning the settings in the freezer and refrigerator to coldest for 24 hours+, the freezer only gets to around 50 and the refrigerator is a little warmer. The compressor gets very warm to the touch. I haven’t heard any clicking. The fan is always on. Did I bring home a piece of garbage or is it an easy fix?
Compressor is working constantly but freezer is at room temp always, at back a too much narrow long tube is cold n wet with water drops made whirlpool.
If all components are running normally, then yes possibly compressor is bad. Is cap and or relay near compressor working properly? You can test with meter. How old is fridge?
The noise stops when the compressor stops and the fan is still going, so it’s not the fan. The evap fan is constantly running.
It’s a GE GSS25JEMD BB.
Yes I have a digital mutlimeter.
Looks like the fan is hitting the housing making that loud noise.
As for the fridge not cooling, you may have a bad compressor. There may also be an issue with the defrost system, the evap fan and motor, or the evap coils.
What is make and model number of your fridge?
Do you have a multimeter?
No one is answering questions at other sites, so I’ll ask here.
I recorded a video of the high pitched ringing that my refrigerator is making, and also of the gurgling sound when it stops. I think the gurgling means it still has Freon.
My refrigerator only blows warm air. All the fans are working and the compressor turns on and makes noise. Is this the high pitch noise other sites talk about when the compressor is bad and needs replaced?
This issue may mean the fridge is too close to the wall therefore pushing warm air around and under easier.
What is the make and model of the fridge so we can troubleshoot.
I have not heard of anyone else with this problem:
the freezer and fridge are appropriately cold; the motor runs constantly, the perimeter of the freezer and fridge door opening area are ALWAYS very warm as if the defroster is always on. Any ideas?
Most likely it was the bad cap. The new one maybe needed a few cycles to operate properly. If it is still working now, then no we would assume compressor is just fine.
Is the fan turning inside the fridge/freezer? Was the humming sound coming from the back of the fridge or inside the fridge? How old is the fridge?
Do you have a Samsung refrigerator? Model number please? RD on Samsung means the air damper is iced up. The damper in the freezer spins around to open and close the air from the freezer to the fridge. It may have iced up or the damper motor/sensor failed. Try unplugging the fridge for 30 minutes and plug back in to be sure it is not a computer board issue.
Hi, I have an LG LFX25971ST fridge and need advice. The fridge stopped cooling and was making the clicking sound, repair person came out and cleaned the coils and changed the capacitor. Shortly before he left, he heard the clicking sound and rechecked everything again. This time he said the compressor was bad. He left and ordered the parts. The next day, I opened the fridge and everything is working fine. It’s been four days and no issues. Can the compressor still be bad or do I need a second opinion.
I switched my fridge to clean it, and after the cleaning I have started it will run for few seconds and then stops with “rd error” any suggestions
So I have a samsung, bottom freezer, it started making this really loud humming sound and the only way it went off was when I open the fridge door..so now I don’t hear a single sound but my fridge is no longer cold and the freezer is still working just fine..and top of that, the temp light for the fridge keeps blinking whereas the freezer one is not..do you have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Please?
It could be the Evaporator Fan Motor. If the freezer does not get cold the evaporator fan motor may have stopped working.
I cleaned my Samsung refrigerator, it blows cold air, but freezer blows cool does not freeze food. Cannot give temperature levels, since it’s a older model #LBC22520SW. Need help ty
Not knowing if a part has failed during transport… leave the fridge plugged in overnight, on the lowest temp for freezer and fridge. Leave it overnight and see what the results are in the AM. If you have further issues, please let us know and we can troubleshoot further.
The lights are on, I can hear what appears to be a fan running, which I’m assuming is a compressor. We have the temperature turned to the coolest setting which is a 5 for the freezer and refrigerator. It has water and ice dispenser. Its a GE side by side, not sure of the model number. We just bought it from someone who posted an ad on craigs list, they have recently removed the ad from the site. It was working PERFECTLY when we got it from the owner.
Do the lights come on in the fridge? Is the fan blowing but it is warm air? Did you mistakenly turn it to defrost? Is the compressor running? Does it have an ice and water dispenser? What is brand and model number?
The refrigerator was transported upright, not laying down.
Was the refrigerator transported right side up or on its side?
What Model number is your Samsung Refrigerator?
It may need to be defrosted. It may also have a problem with automatic self-defrosting. The refrigerators of modern day are not DIY friendly. We will need a model number to help you further.
Since last 1 week, my Samsung double door refrigerator is having a cooling problem in the refrigerator. (temp is 15 degree Celsius).. Freezer is working fine. (at -20 degree Celsius).
Once before 2 days, I have found some water drops in refrigerator which are coming from the vent from freezer compartment.. I have cleaned it and then after it does not come.
Also checked the body of refrigerator. It becomes hot on regular interval. Also checked the boiling water pot at the back side… it is also empty.. So What should be the probable cause…?
Recently purchased a refrigerator from someone off craigs list. When we picked up the refrigerator the owner had it plugged in and it was working perfectly. When we brought it home and plugged it in we can hear it running but 12 hours later is still not cold and very humid inside. Did something happen during transportation of the unit??
Thank you: it is locally assembled, cooling by air…
Might need to change the defrost timer. Anyway, what is make and model number of your fridge so we can research further?
Greetings : my fridge won’t stop until the defrost timer reaches a certain point when a click could be heard, then the fridge will not restart until the defrost timer is manually turned a little of course clockwise, the cooling is acceptable. would you kindly help. Thanks
Any diagrams or videos would be of value.
Do you have cooling setting turned as cold as possible?
Have you tested relay at back of fridge?
Does evap fan in freezer operate?
How old is your refrigerator?
If your evaporator fan (in the freezer) is not running, the air can’t be moved through the evaporator but it will still run the compressor. This means that your freezer will be cold but the fresh food (fridge) part won’t. So be sure fan is operational.
As for the dispenser, does it dispense ICE CUBES? If so the it is most likely just a bad switch. If neither works (ice or water) it could be many things. Do you hear a noise when using the water dispenser or ice maker?
I have a Samsung side by side fridge freezer with water & ice dispenser.
Today 2 things happened:
1. The water dispenser stopped working
2. The fridge temperature increased.
We checked the water supplier, and that seems to be fine. So we cannot work out why the water is not dispensing.
The freezer temp has remained at the desired freezer temp. However, the fridge cannot keeps the correct temp. We used the power cool setting to try reduce the temperature, but it keeps going back to the maximum temp. The door seal seams to be fine. I don’t understand why the freezer would be working, but not the fridge. Surely they use the same condenser?
I just want to tell you, you saved us from buying a new fridge. My husband’s brother works in the refrigeration department at Whirlpool on the software side of things (he didn’t even know what the problem could be) and even with a VIP discount, there’s not much of a deal to be had having a family member working there. The best deal would have been a scratch and dent. Well, I started pricing because we refuse to pay a service fee along with parts with a fridge that’s 11 (not that old but not made like they used to be either). So, my husband tells me to research online and see if I can find the problem. There you were to save the day. I bought the parts on Amazon for 1/2 of what Whirlpool wanted and fixed it myself. You helped this lady feel pretty handy and my husband appreciates the money not spent on a new one. Thank you so very much!
I have West point direct cooling double door refrigerator. Model WT 271
The freezer will cool a little, there light in the fridge but its not cooling just warm.
After about 15 mins the refrigerator will trip off and later come on after about 20 mins.
I notice that the compressor is very hot.
What could the cause and also the solution?
i have a Samsung side by side about 5years old. Model # RS263TDBP. My freezer is working but my fridge is not. The fan is not turning on and the compressor is warm to the touch but not hot. What do you think it is?
I have an Orien outdoor refrigerator, #FSR-240D, and no one will service this brand in my area. The problem with the fridge is everything is running, lights, fans, compressor ,no clicking noises, and temp knob set at coldest but fridge will not get drinks cold anymore. I have changed the relay and capacitor but still the same problem. What other parts can go wrong and be replaced if fridge is not getting cold? Thanks for any help!!!
I have a Samsung R266 series that the actual freezer is working fine but refrigerator is not cooling. When l pulled fresh produce bin out l had about a liter of water. My question is do l need to defrost the fridge because I see some ice build up in the back panel and where to l check the drain.
We have a 1998 GE Monogram built-in side by side which has been having issues over the last few years, especially during warm weather. Cooling gets compromised, freezer warms up to thawed contents and fridge gets warmer although seems to still be cool (not cold). The unit seems to run almost constantly. Compressor is very hot to the touch. No clicking sounds. On the most recent episode, I cleaned the condenser fins again and that seemed to help but it also coincided with a cooling down of ambient temperatures. Any ideas?
We have a 3 yr old Samsung Fridge RF220. In the last two weeks, we noticed the freezer was not longer cold enough to freeze food, and soon after realized that the fridge was also not as cold as it should. We had a repair person replace the evaporator fan, and we cleaned the condensor coils (they were very dirty). No change. Here are some observations that may help:
– Compressor is very hot to the touch, and we don’t hear it come on very often during the day.
– Condensor fan is running, even at times, when the compressor isn’t.
– There are no clicking noises.
– Evaporator fan works when freezer light is off, but seems to stop working even if temperature of the freezer hasn’t reached “cold”.
The repairman wants to replace the freezer evaporator and filter dryer, but it doesn’t seem like the evaporator would be the issue since from my research, that would cause an ice build up, not a lack of uniform ice on the evaporator ??
Another update to our fridge issues…
* After unplugging it for 20 min + unplugging ice maker *
– Compressor, fan, cold air flow all working normally.
* After running for a while *
– Compressor is very hot, condenser fan working, evaporator fan not working.
– No clicking noise
We are unsure how to test the relay and the start capacitor unfortunately.
I am hoping someone is able to help us resolve our fridge issues (Samsung RF220NCTASR). We noticed a few weeks ago that the freezer was not cold enough to keep food frozen. We tried the power freeze, with no luck. We then realized that the fridge was also not cold enough either. We called a repair technician, who replaced the evaporator fan. No change. The freeze stayed at a temperature of approx. 30F, and the fridge around 50F. He came back and unplugged the ice maker. No change. Yesterday we cleaned the condenser coils, that were very dirty, and after plugging it back it (perhaps 20 min), we heard the compressor kick in, and fan. Both the fridge and the freezer dropped about 10F, but today it is warm again. We tried running the diagnostic test, but no light came on. Thanks for your help !!!
I have a Samsung side by side. In the last few weeks we have had a few power outages due to storms. Since then I’ve heard a noise from the fridge when I open it like a fan kicking off. Hard to explain. Anyway my freezer stays at -4 and my fridge usually at 40. It will not cool now. My fridge is at 59. I’ve done the power cool on it and I can get it down to 58. Now my freezer is at -6. I pulled the bottom back off and cleaned what seemed to be years of dust. The owner/landlord obviously never cleaned it and I never thought of it till now. If this fails what else could it be? The fan in the back runs and the compressor does feel hot to the touch but again I just cleaned it.
Hi I have a samsung RS267TDRS side by side my freezer is cold but frig not cooling setting is -4&34
I unplugged unscrew plate cleaned coils they were’t that dirty but I did notice that there’s 2 white rubber tubes one on right the other on left.
The one on the right wasn’t connected like the one on the left so I connected the same way I’m not sure if i was supposed to do that .I hear something running, how long should I wait for the frig to start cooling and do you think that could have been the problem
My Whirlpool refrigerator is starting up and seems to be normal, compressor seems to run properly, normal sounds from condensor coils with cirkulation, lights working, fan inside working, but no cooling , and after 5-10 minutes the compressor runs overheated burning my fingers, can this be result of bad cirkulation in liquid lines or just a bad compressor, it started after refrigerator had built up ice around the fan for a couple of weeks, when i measure the Windings on compressor it seems ok , but when i measure Amps on separate wiring to running compressor i have about 0,5 Amps !!
Have someone any clue?
I don’t hear or feel a fan running in the fridge. But I don’t recall ever doing that. No icing or extra condensation in the fridge. Its dry as dry can get. The fridge is warm. Not cool at all. I had to throw out milk, etc. Also as of just about 10 pm Sun night, after having a full functioning freezer, its not NOT freezing!! Its starting to defrost all my foods. My frozen fruit was not frozen tonight. What in thee heck is wrong with this thing??!!!!! I’m so darn frustrated!
Help please. My fridge is a Fridgidaire Model #FRS26H5ASBA. it made a 700 mile move. It was cooling off and on before the move, now it blows room temp air. Once we unloaded it upright, we left unplugged for 2 days. When we plugged it in the evaporator fan wasn’t running. I had the compressor replaced a few years ago. We just replaced the evaporator motor and it now runs and blows. Husband just checked the compressor, it is running with a very low hum, only mildly warm (and I do mean mild) on top of it after running for few hours. Capacitor has infinite reading on meter. We shook the relay and no noise. Nothing appeared or sounded loose. The fridge was unplugged for a few days before move, and we waited 2 days after standing it back upright after the move. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Is the fan operational in the fridge? Air blowing? The fridge gets its cool from air flowing into it basically from the freezer. If the fan is not working, cool air will not flow in. Also be sure the evaporator fan is running in the freezer.
Do you notice any icing on the freezer walls or extra condensation in the fridge? Is there any type of water leak in either the freezer or fridge? Is the fridge warm or cool but not cool enough? What is the temp in the fridge compartment? Do you currently have any food in the fridge area?
Hi again…it’s me Lisa, the Samsung fridge owner. I turned up the fridge to the very coldest like you suggested. Still nothing. The freezer is working fine, surprisingly. Like I previously mentioned, this fridge/freezer has given me problems from the beginning. Just about a month ago it stopped making ice out of the blue and I had to figure out what was wrong then too. I can’t even remember how I got it to work, but it worked after a day. Any new ideas that could help me get my fridge to work?
Are your evaporator coils frosted over? This can happen if the defrost heater or defrost thermostat are faulty. Another common reason could be that the evaporator fan motor has failed. Check the back of the fridge to examine the evaporator coils for ice build up.
My whirlpool fridge stops cooling but the freezer is still working fine..i unplug it for 24hrs and everything starts working again..but a few weeks later the same thing keeps happening.. the freezer is fine but the fridge will lose coolness..the freezer starts to develop alot of frost but the fridge is not cool.
It sounds like there is a cooling issue but before we dive into that, have you changed the temp controls to see if that helped at all? If Samsung says to keep the temp controls at 3, try moving the temp controls to the very coolest setting. Then give it 24 hours and see if there is any change. IF you are still having issues, please let us know and we will be happy to assist further troubleshooting.
I have a 3 year old Samsung #RS261MDWP with temp control bars on the freezer door. I was told to keep the bars at 3 freezer/3 fridge. From the start this fridge has never cooled properly. The freezer is currently working but the fridge is not cool at all, again. Help!!!! This happens over and over!! Or its the freezer, that won’t make ice or freeze. It seems that after reading this info that Samsung has a lot of problems. Is that so?
Did you have the mini fridge on its side when defrosting? Did you get anything wet at the rear of the fridge? Are the fans running to provide airflow? How long did you wait to see if it was getting cold after you plugged it in?
We have a 4.4 C.F. Magic Chef Model HMBR445BE mini fridge in our office at work and it has been working great but a few weeks ago we noticed that ice had accumulated in the freezer so we unplugged the fridge and took it outside to let it defrost in the service bay however once we brought it back inside and plugged it in. i noticed that although i could here it running it was not freezing or cooling. I removed the little round disc inside the starter/module and it appeared to be intact. I unplugged and re plugged and checked the temperature control however it still will not cool. Why did it stop cooling after cleaning it and how can we fix it.
Sounds as if the compressor and the cap are OK. Out of the 3, the start relay sounds to be the only one with the wild readings. That is a cheap enough part to just replace and see if the issue is resolved.
I tested the windings on the compressor with a multi-meter on the ohm settings 2000. The three readings came out as 3, 4, and 7. I also put the meter on continuity and tested each prong along with a scratched off area on the outside of the compressor to test for a short and there was no indication of a short. I tested the capacitor with an ohm meter on 2000k and the reading begins at or near zero and increases to roughly 1900 before indicating infinite. I switched the leads and the reading begins at roughly -200 and gradually increases to over 1900 and finally indicates infinite. Finally, I tested the start device with the meter on 200 ohms between the start and run winding connectors. The reading jumped all over from as low as 6 to as high as 50. Not sure what that means. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
After the loose neutral incident, you replaced the relay and start cap? Every component is working properly and giving good readings on your meter?
I have a Kenmore Coldspot side by side refrigerator Model # 106.57703703. Recently we had what the power company called a “loose neutral” in the meter box on the side of the house. It caused my lights to go bright then dim etc. Well, ever since then my refrigerator hasn’t worked properly. It comes on, the fans run, the compressor runs (and gives appropriate multimeter readings) but it does not cool like it should. The freezer won’t get cold enough to make ice. I have replaced the relay in it, but that wasn’t it. I didn’t replace the capacitor when I replaced the relay. I don’t think I realized I should have at the time ( I have learned all I know about this from Youtube or appliance forums!) What are your thoughts? What should I do next? I don’t hear any clicking noises or anything. I can hear the compressor come on, but it just doesn’t cool properly. I have also cleaned the coils, so dust isn’t the problem either. Thank you!!
There is no clicking noise that I’ve noticed and we have not moved the fridge at all. I will test the starter with a VOM (is that the correct tool) today and see.
You may have a bad starter capacitor. You should test the starter first and then the compressor. When some starters go bad, the compressor will get warm then hot and may seem to be working but it is not working properly. The starter is a cheap part that’s why we say to check that first. Do you hear any type of clicking noise coming from the back of the fridge? Did you make sure all fans are operational?
If the starter ends up being in working order, then the compressor needs to be tested next. If bad, it may be cheaper to get a new fridge than replace the compressor. Did you recently have the fridge on it’s side during transportation?
The compressor is warm, is humming has a very mild vibration
When frost build up happens, it is usually because warm outside air is getting into the freezer. This is caused by either a bad door seal, a bad thermostat, bad defrost heater, or timer. Check door seal first. Be sure it is clean and makes a perfect seal when door is shut.
To see if the compressor is working, you will actually hear the low hum. You could unplug the fridge, open back panel, then plug fridge back in and see if compressor starts. The compressor is not always running. So by unplugging for awhile, then plugging back in, the compressor should start up again. Turn your temperature dials to the lowest (coldest) setting you possibly can. If the compressor does not run at all, you may have a bad start capacitor. Check the cap with a meter to be sure. Do you hear a clicking sound from the back of the fridge?
How long has the refrigerator been plugged in? Is there air blowing into the freezer and refrigerator? Are the fans running? Are the light bulbs in the refrigerator on?
I bought a new whirlpool refrigerator 190 litre, I plugged it in. Since then I am waiting it to cool, but it is not cooling and the freezer is not freezing.
I have a Maytag side by side modelMZD2667HEQ. I woke up this morning to find my fridge and freezer are no longer cooling. Air is blowing from the vents in each side but it isn’t cold. The fan in the back next to the compressor is running but I don’t know how to determine if the compressor is working or not. Thoughts?
Freezer is not getting cold enough. Cleaned the coils. Both fans are running. The fridge never shuts off and had a huge frost build up in the freezer. Gets cold, but not enough to freeze the food. I just bought it off Craigslist.
Check to be sure all fans are working properly. You may have an air flow issue.
I have a samsung american freezer (r21w). The fridge is working fine but the freezer isnt freezing at the top but is at the bottom. The compressor was changed 2 months ago and the lights are working????
That means the Evaporator fan motor is bad. Would be wise to remove and replace it and troubleshoot any other issues after. The compressor runs correct?
kitchen aid fridge,
Top fridge and bottom freezer, only the freezer works but not the top part. feel the vent and no air blowing in. some tech said that it needs the evap. motor, and might have more problems ? I’m confused
You can test the condenser fan with a meter to see if it is faulty. If so replace it with the same as original. Have you turned the temperature settings down to see if that makes a difference? It’s possible the compressor is going bad and or refrigerant is low. Test to see if fan is inoperative and remove and replace as needed. Let us know what you find.
It’s a Samsung srs579np.
I checked the back (first time) and noticed that the coils are dirty but not that dirty. I also noticed that the compressor was running hot and that the condenser fan wasn’t running although i have seen it work before. Is the fan faulty or is it some other electrical problem?
So it is cooling properly now? Just the lights are out? Both lights in the fridge section or one in fridge and one in freezer? If the unit is cooling and freezing but lights are out, it could be the door switch. The switch that powers the lights when you open the door may be faulty. Either that or the bulb (bulbs) are out. May also have faulty wiring within the fridge. Let us know if the fridge is now cooling, if not we can help you troubleshoot.
You may have a bad or on the verge compressor or start relay/capacitor. Have you checked to be sure the coils are clean? Have you visually examined the back of the fridge? What is the model number of your Samsung fridge?
Best way to troubleshoot is to first test the start capacitor if the compressor does not start. Is the fridge and freezer section blowing air at all inside? No fans no compressor at all? Do the lights come on in the fridge?
10 year old Samsung fridge had been off for about 2 years. Plugged in and get power but no compressor or fan noise. Not cooling at all. Where to start?
My Samsung refrigerator (1 side door freezer, other fridge) keeps cool (normal temperatures) for a few hours but shuts down and gets warm (ice-cream melted). In order to start working normally again i flick the power off and then on but that only works for a few hours until it shuts down.
All the lights are working inside and out. I notice that the temperature indicator reads -20 / 5 for the freezer and fridge but once checking inside that’s clearly not the case. Once i switch the power off and then back on, the temperature gauge reads correctly.
We have a Maytag MTB2156FEW. The freezer seems to continue to freeze, and its light is on. The fridge is not cooling, and both lights are out. I’ve been at work, and my wife just updated me that the fridge does seem to be cooling again, but both lights are still out. Please advise…
When you say you took off the back, what area was full of ice? If the coils are covered with ice then that means you have an issue with the defrost system. Either the Defrost Timer or the Defrost Heater could be the issue. The timer cycles the heater on and off during the day to make sure frost does not accumulate. If it is bad the ice will form on back and the fridge will go to room temp. You will need to troubleshoot the defrost system.
My fridge is room temperature but my freezer works just fine. deforsted it for 24 hours . And its still not working. Took off the back and its full of ice. What does that mean?
You can try testing the start capacitor to see if it is working properly. If the compressor is hot and not cooling it of course could be a bad compressor. Check all the other cheaper parts first. Here is a page that will show you how to test a capacitor.
My Samsung refrigerator lights are coming ON but there is no cooling effect. No starting sound of compressor. But the compressor is getting hot after switching ON. can anyone suggest the remedial action. Is it a problem with capacitor or compressor or something else.
Yes it is possible you need freon. If so it may just be time to get a new refrigerator. You may also have an airflow issue where the air is not routing properly. If this is the case then usually one (either the freezer or the refrigerator) will be cool and the other warm. Research your particular refrigerator and look for airflow obstruction and routing issues.
The 3 in 1 start relay: The one you ordered for your compressor, it made your compressor run extra hot? Did it start your compressor and then it (the relay) completely failed? Have you used an OEM part? You may want to use the EXACT relay that is used for your refrigerator. If you use a larger HP relay, it will work, but may make your compressor not last as long as designed. Research where to find the exact relay that is used in your present configuration. If you need a larger HP relay to start the compressor, this may indicate your compressor is not working properly.
My compressor stopped working and I changed the relay but it still wasn’t working. So I installed one of those 3 in 1 start relays (RCO810) but the one that is supposed to be for my fridge didn’t work. So I used a higher horsepower one (RCO410) and this started the compressor but made it sound very loud. It sounds like my compressor is going to be bad very soon and needs replacing or am I missing something here. Also to note, the compressor did get very hot with the other relays.
Thank you RR.
There is no frost. The refrigerator has been unplugged and in storage. The compressor isn’t super hot, but warm to the touch. Every thing appears to be connected, clean and running. Just not cold. Refrigerator is 70 degrees, freezer is 65. Our last thought was that it needs freon? Thanks again.
Is the compressor super hot to the touch? The compressor may be running but you may have heavy frost buildup on the evaporator coils. You would need to remove a panel on the inside of the freezer to access (consult your users manual to be sure). A sign that there is a buildup is having any frost or ice buildup on the inside floor, walls, or maybe the ceiling of the freezer. This type of frost buildup usually tells you there is a problem with the self defrosting system.
The refrigerator is supposed to self defrost 3-4 times in a 24 hour period. If a component in the self defrosting system is defective, the refrigerator keeps trying to cool. As this is happening, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the fan is unable to pull air over the coils therefore not being able to cool.
Hello. We have a KitchenAid french door #KBFS22EWBL2. The refrigerator and freezer will not get cold. We have set the temperature controls, removed the back panel and checked for dirt/hair (it is very clean), made sure the fan is running and confirmed that the compressor is running. We can feel the fans pushing air to the compartments, but neither is cold. Starting to think we may need freon? Thank you in advance for your assistance. //Michelle
If the freezer is warm and the fridge is cold, that may be something completely different than compressor issues. You more than likely have an airflow issue or a defrost issue. Does the fan in the freezer compartment blow air at all? Is there anything blocking the airflow?
Thank you for your quick reply! I do have a multimeter from when I fixed our dryer so I will try that. One more question, it seems like the refrigerator side is staying cold but the freezer side is not. Could that mean something else? Thanks again!
If the refrigerator is not cooling, that means the compressor is not working. There is a part in the back bottom of the refrigerator that is called a run capacitor. This capacitor is what helps to start the compressor when the compressor needs to run. If this part is bad then the compressor will not be able to run. Do you have a multimeter you could use to see if this part is bad? You will need to access the back of the fridge to get to these parts. The buzzing sound may just be one of the fans that could be bent, or on the fritz. Check run capacitor first before anything. Be careful and unplug refrigerator when you are going to access the components in the back. Here is a page that has a schematic of the back of your refrigerator. Use it to see where everything is. You could also have a bad compressor, refrigerator temperature sensor, refrigerator overload protector, or a bad refrigerator main PCB board. Check the run capacitor first as this is most likely.
Hey, we have a Kenmore Refrigerator that just started making a buzzing noise in the top left corner of the freezer/back area. The freezer items are thawing so it’s definitely not cooling. When I open the doors the noise stops and then restarts. It shut off for a while and then started back up again. Could it be the compressor? Don’t want to pay a repairman to come out if it is because we will just get a new one. The model number is 79551319012. Thanks!
Is it just the freezer going up in temperature or both freezer and refrigerator? Was the inverter board an original OEM part? Is compressor running hot, warm? How often does the compressor run? Any clicking going on in back? What exactly is the temp in the freezer?
I have a GE Profile with bottom drawer freezer. The lights were on, fan on, but no compression. I tested the muthaboard and compressor to determine that the inverter board had died. I changed the inverter board and it immediately worked again and ran for several hours until the temp was around 0 and 37 (freezer/fridge) – but now several hours later it seems the freezer temp is going up regardless of the compressor running? Any advice or things I should check? (PS my compressor is a variable speed and the test proved all windings were 6.5 ohms)
What other parts did the technician replace? Is the refrigerator working exactly the same as before? Has anything changed since the maintenance was performed?
We had a guy replace the compressor and several other small parts on defy fridge. And regas but still the fridge does not get cold. The compressor gets very warm. What else can be wrong?
Yes. A capacitor should be extremely inexpensive and available just about anywhere. Amazon has cheap ones that are universal and cost under $10 dollars US. In some cases, when people have had the same problem as you, they simply replaced both the starter relay and capacitor. Both cheap and when replaced together there is no question about which part is faulty. If the refrigerator still does not work properly, then it is either the compressor or a control board.
Ok if I understand there are two capacitor the starter and running capacitor. I need to replace the starter capacitor correct.
Most likely the compressor has run its life. However, have you checked to see if there is a small relay that works in conjunction with the capacitor? This small relay may not be on a refrigerator as old as yours. If there is nothing else to help run the compressor and the capacitor is working properly, then yes the compressor is shot. Depending on where you live, it is probably best to buy a new refrigerator as they are much more energy efficient then anything built 13 years ago. You can also sometimes get a rebate from your electrical company when you buy a certain type of high efficient refrigerators. So, in the long run, you will save money by buying a new fridge instead of replacing the compressor. Make sense?
I have a 14 year old refrigerator from costco (made by whirlpool). The compressor is not running and there is the clicking sound every couple minutes. It’s hot. I tested the capacitor with a multimeter and it tested at 12.5 microF, and it’s supposed to be 12 microF. Is the compressor most likely dead after 14 years?
There may be a capacitor in there also to help with compressor. If so, replace that and see what happens. If still no go, then compressor is most likely going bad.
I have a commercial True Freezer that the compressor sometimes run and sometimes dont. I unplug it and replace the starter relay and still does the same thing. I plug it back and it clicks run for about 1 minute than compressor shut off but the fan run. Sometimes runs for about 2 hour fine than suddenly compressor stops running. sometimes even runs for longer getting to -5 and holds temperature. it goes into defrost but once the compressor tries to start again it would start and run for 1 minute than shut off and if not just clicks.
Use a multimeter. If you do not know how to use a multimeter you could get away with just replacing those 1 or 2 parts as they are the most common cause for your issue and least expensive.
But , how to check relay and capacitor that it is good or bad?
Your compressor is most likely ok. You will need to test and check the capacitor and the relay that actually starts the compressor. If you hear a click but nothing happens, then one of those parts is most likely bad. Remove and replace and or use a meter to see if those parts are working properly.
I have Godrej refrigerator, when I switch it on it sounds only one click and it does not cool. Compressor doesn’t starting, plz help me what should I do?
No not difficult or expensive. Should be a few screws that can remove the complete temperature control assembly. You should only have to replace one or 2 parts instead of the complete assembly. Probably just the switch that controls the temp.
is the temp control difficult to replace and/or expensive?
You may have an issue with the temp controls. They control the thermostat which in turn switches on the compressor. So one of these parts may be bad. Can you put an external thermometer in the fridge and see what the exact temp is when you are forced to turn the controls back up? This will tell you how high (warm) the temp is getting.
I usual slide the temp control all the way up, when it pops on i slide back to my normal setting.
You may have a temp setting control unit bad and or possibly dirty coils that may make the compressor turn off prematurely. First be sure the coils on the back of your fridge are free of dust and debris. If you are having to turn your temp control setting up to make the compressor turn on again, at what setting do you have to turn it up to to make the compressor kick in?
I have a GE side by side, and it will run for a couple days then shut off and the compressor won’t kick on unless i adjust the temperature controls. Runs fine again and normal again for a couple days then dose it again. Any help would be great
My LG refrigerator is now working, thank you so much you have saved me money.
Is there excess frost in the freezer? Is there something blocking the fan in the freezer? Air does flow from the freezer to the refrigerator section. If the return air flow path is blocked, then the fan simply can’t push air into the fridge while the freezer door is closed. So try a test, check the air flow into the fridge side with the freezer door open and with the freezer door shut. When the freezer door is open, if the air does start to flow into your fridge, then there is something blocking the fan in the freezer. Try this and if this is not your issue, let us know and we can assist further.
Yes, it was unplugged. the temperature control inside the freezer is at 5 currently, we have tried all levels and the model number is GRB712YLP its an LG refrigerator. The freezer is working perfectly, its the bottom part that is not working.
Did this issue arise after you cleaned the fridge? If so check the temperature control dial. When you say switch it off, do you mean unplug or is there an actual on/off switch for your fridge? Can you give us the model number?
I have an EL Refrigerator got it in 2010. The top part of the freezer is working but the bottom part of the refrigerator is not working. I did clean it at the back and tried to to switch it off for more that 09 hours still its not working. please assist.
After replacing the ptc relay and capacitor, I the last resort was the temperature control panel. There is a white plastic plug I pulled out and has a inward screw, so I turned it and fridge fired up. So out of all the research I’ve done, I have never stumbled this trip switch. But now since I have it in my garage its plug in into one those receptacles with the trip switch and it keep tripping. So again I had to get a screw driver and turn the to reset it and plug it to a regular AC plug. So incase anybody has the same problem check to see if your fridge has a trip switch or reset button.
If there is no voltage (power) going into the relay, then you need to assume that the next component along the wiring is bad or faulty. There could also be faulty wiring that is causing the issue. The temp switch could be fried and therefore no power. Can you remove it and test it with a meter?
Are the lights on in the fridge? Do the fans blow air into the fridge and freezer but just not cold? If so then there is an issue with the compressor or other compressor component. Usually the compressor will be ok, but a small component that it needs to start called a Start Relay or Cap, will be the component that has failed. These small parts that start the compressor are cheap and easy to install yourself. Can you give us the model number of the refrigerator and answer the questions we asked to better assist you?
I had a GE refrigerator in my storage for a couple of years. Its practically brand new. I gave it a friend that has children & wants fresh food & vegetables for them to eat. They took it home & it doesn’t cool the food nor freezes. What could be the problem. They cleaned the back. Plugged in correctly.
I have an old GE Tbx25ayarww model for my garage. When I plug it in I have light inside but no running compressor or fan. I put in a new capacitor and ptc rely and it still will not fire up, I check the compressor resist and it checks out ok. So I put my meter on vac testing the wires going into the relay and I have no power as well as wires that go to the fan and no power. Is it possible that it could be the temp switch inside not powering the refrigerator?
Is the air that is coming into the refrigerator room temp or is it slightly cool? What about the freezer, are items thawed or still frozen? If you can access the back of the fridge, carefully see if the compressor is cold, warm, or hot to the touch and get back to us. This may just be a bad relay on the back of your fridge that has gone bad or is failing and causing your compressor to not kick on. Do a search on YouTube for your brand and model number for FRIDGE NOT COOLING and see what relay MAY have gone bad. If it is a relay it is cheap and easy to fix yourself.
My Whirpool fridge & freezer haven’t been cooling properly for the last 2 weeks. Cold air is barely coming out of the vents. In addition, I heard clicking noises about a week ago (not sure where the clicks were coming from). The clicks were in 2-3 second increments. I adjusted the temperature dial, from the recommended setting to a higher temperature setting, and the clicking sound stopped. I called a repairman and he said that there was nothing wrong with the refrigerator, only that there was too much stuff in the freezer and to remove some of it. The condition of my refrigerator is still the same. Do you have any suggestions on what I could do or what is wrong with my refrigerator?
Make sure there is not massive dust and lint buildup behind your fridge. Vacuum out all lint so the air flows and all components can work as designed.
My fridge compressor is overheating and also condenser too much heat on it, then cutout on clicks. What must i do to solve this?
The sounds is coming from behind the fridge, down near the compressor. I noticed that most people tried replacing the starter relay and capacitor which usually fixes this so I have gone ahead and done that and I haven’t had any issues since! :) ….well except for the ice maker not working but thats an entirely different issue that I will start looking into. Glad I was able to fix this and save some $$$.
If you have replaced the starter, relay and cap, and you still have clicking, your compressor most likely has internal damage. There could also be a freon restriction. If your refrigerator is less than five years old it may be covered by the warranty. If it’s older this repair may cost you at around $200. If you need only freon then that would be the only cost. If the compressor has internal damage then unfortunately the compressor needs replaced. The only thing left to check would be that you have dirty condenser coils and this is making it impossible for the refrigerator to work properly.
I have replaced the starter relay and capacitor on my refrigerator – however the compressor is still not firing up still getting the clicking sound – At this point I don’t know what it could be – the fan is working i checked and clicked the defrost switch – Help.
Where is that noise coming from EXACTLY? If it is coming from inside the refrigerator, freezer, or behind the fridge? If behind the fridge, are you right next to the compressor with the recorder?
Sorry for the delay here, was out of town a couple days.
Thanks for any help that you may provide. It’s a Frigidaire model FRS23LH5DS9 manufactured 2004-2005.
It sounds like a relay, capacitor, and or wiring issue. Your Whirlpool fridge is newer so many of the components that were in older refrigerators are now on the control board. So, it could actually be a control board that is malfunctioning. Your control board will be located on the back of the fridge behind the freezer section and you will notice it as it is covered by a panel held on by bolts. Most likely it will be a part that runs with and assists the compressor to start. If you use a multimeter and find that the cap and relay are ok, then it will be either the control board or the compressor itself has an issue. But we would bet that it is a cap or relay down near the compressor that is bad. And no not in Idaho sorry! :)
Thank you RR
Yes the lights are on when its not cooloing.. No fans running at all.. I will ask around to see about a multimeter.. Are you in the area? Idaho…joke:)
Most likely you have a bad relay or capacitor that is working “on and off”. It may be helping to start the compressor once you plug it in and because it is faulty, it may not start the compressor the next time it needs to turn on.
When it is not cooling are the lights and fans still running? Like everything is working except getting cold yes?
If you know how to use a multimeter then it would be a good idea to test the cap and or relay that help start your compressor.
Whirpool fridge 2013 ..We have it in the garage.. It has quit working.. But when I unplug it for a day & plug it back in it will run freezer & all… Then after awhile will quit.. Everything is clean under fridge. Could this be a temp swtich problem?
How old is the refrigerator? Where is the noise coming from, the compressor or the the inner walls of the fridge? Do you hear the fan or fans running? What make and model is your fridge?
My refrigerator and freezer only cool around setting 3 (factor setting) and I cannot make it colder. If I do, it starts to not cool at all or blow cool air. The compressor gets very hot at this time and I do hear a hard-to-describe/word noise every so often that lasts for about 5-10 seconds. The coils are all clean and it just seems to be the compressor overheating.
I haven’t tested with a multimeter yet but will as soon as possible (currently out of town).
Any other ideas before I get testing?
A clicking sound on a refrigerator is a relay or a newer type capacitor. These are the parts that assist to start your compressor. These are very cheap parts and if you look at the back of your fridge or in your parts manual you can find them, order them online and replace them. This should fix your issue.
My Maytag Plus fridge starts clicking with a dragging sound. I unplug the power cord, wait a while and plug the power cord back in, it begins to work without the clicking sound and it works beautifully (very quite). After about 6 months, it starts over with clicking sound. I repeat the power down process and again it works great. What could be the problem? Is this something that I can repair myself with replacement parts?
Make sure you have the temp knob set correctly for the refrigerator. What brand and model number is your refrigerator?
Check to see if the compressor is starting up. Also, make sure the temp knobs are set appropriately. If compressor is working, then you may have some blockage that is not letting cooler air into the appropriate areas.
Amana frig freezer on the bottom not cooling either compartment. A fan continues to run just not cold air. Cold air coming out of the back of the fridge. From reading the above it looks like it could be a capacitor.
The freezer is working but the refrigeration is not. Had the noise then I clean at the back with hoover
Have a look at the compressor. If the fans run but nothing cools it is most likely the compressor is bad. Is the compressor getting hot to the touch?
Refrigerator and freezer not cooling fan kicks on no clicks or any other noise fan only runs for a couple seconds
How are you able to start it back up? Have you checked the back of the fridge to be sure there is no lint or dust buildup? You may have a possible capacitor that is on the fritz. You can test all electrical components with a multimeter.
My 2 drawer compact refrigerator with controls in the top drawer recently has been shutting down both drawers. I can start it back up but why is it shutting down?