Do you have a washing machine that won’t drain? If every function on your washing machine works except it WILL NOT DRAIN OUT THE WATER, here are the most common reasons why. We will explain the parts on your washer that may be causing the problem of “no drain”. The symptoms we list will be generalized and will include the most common parts that can fail, malfunction or break. Note that there are differences with newer front loading washers compared to older top loading washers. See here if your WASHER WILL NOT SPIN OR DRAIN.
There are roughly 6 different parts on most washing machines that could be causing your WASHER NOT DRAINING problem. We will list each part in question along with a detailed description of that parts function.
Troubleshoot Why Your Washing Machine Will NOT Drain
The drain pump is the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure to check the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself inside of it causing the NO DRAIN issue. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for “Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump” then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.
COMMON WASHING MACHINE DRAIN PUMP
The washing machine drain hose is where the water flows through to get the water out. If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the water from the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it. You can search Google or YouTube for “How To Remove Washing Machine Drain Hose” to assist you.
If you know what Washing Machine Replacement Parts you need,
here is where to get them at a GREAT PRICE and most have FREE shipping.
LOCATION OF WASHING MACHINE DRAIN HOSE – CHECK FOR BLOCKAGE
The water pump belt (to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose. If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing the NO DRAIN issue and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for “How To Replace Pump Belt On Washing Machine” then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.
The drive belt rides on the pulleys. If this belt is not tight enough or if it is broken it cannot move the appropriate parts to drain. Inspect the drive belt to see if this is causing the NO DRAIN issue and remove and replace if needed.
Go to YouTube or Google and search for “How To Replace A Drive Belt On A Washing Machine” then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.
COMMON WASHING MACHINE DRIVE BELT
If the lid switch is not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems). This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to also not agitate or spin. However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuity. Go to Google or YouTube and search for “How To Test A Washing Machine Lid Switch For Continuity“. If the lid switch does end up being the cause of your washer not draining, then remove and replace the switch as needed.
COMMON WASHING MACHINE LID SWITCH
If the door lock switch on your washer has failed, this can prevent the washer from draining out the water. Check this switch for continuity and remove and replace if needed. Go to YouTube or Google and search for “How To Replace A Washing Machine Door Lock Switch” then type in your brand and model number to show you details on replacement.
COMMON DOOR LOCKING SWITCH FOR WASHING MACHINES
Are you an experienced Appliance Technician with many years of Washing Machine Repair? Please leave a comment below if you know of other reasons why a washer will not drain.
Looking for WASHING MACHINE ERROR CODES?
Here are error codes for Amana, Asko, Beko, Bosch, Frigidaire, GE,
Hotpoint, Kenmore, LG, Maytag, Samsung, and Whirlpool washers.
Here is a webpage with ALL ERROR CODES for all washing machines.
If anyone visiting this page still has unanswered questions about repairing your washer that won’t drain, feel free to ask us a question below and we will troubleshoot your issue and answer you back ASAP.
Written by Keith Schneerer
Certified Appliance Tech · Founder, RemoveAndReplace.com
Keith has spent 30+ years repairing machines, starting as a military mechanic and later maintaining food processing equipment before moving into appliance repair. He founded RemoveAndReplace.com to share field-tested repair advice.
More about Keith →
It has functioned for years w/the drain hose placed as is – drain inlet just about same height as top of washer. So do you think replacing the pump would be the potential fix?
Kris,
It just means the drain hose is placed up too high and the pump does not have the power to get the water up and out. This could mean the pump is damaged, or the drain hose is too high. Try lowering the drain hose and checking that the pump is working properly.
-RR
I have a GE model WCSR2090DGWW which is not draining properly. It does spin however, and the pump was clogged with something that broke apart in the washer. I cleaned out the cabinet, pump, and drain lines and they are all clear, but it is still not draining. If I lower the drain line closer to the floor it will then drain. Does this mean the pump is broken? Or what else could be the problem? Thanks!
We have a front loader whirlpool duet. Last week the cycle ended and the machine was still filling with water. I stopped the flow from the house, switched it to spin/drain and the machine ran several loads since without an issue. Today, my wife open the door after a wash water poured out. We again ran and spin/drain cycle and the water drained. I just cleaned the drain filter which was not bad. Any suggestions as to what’s happening? Both times this happened on the hand wash cycle. Thank you.
My washer, a Samung front-loader that’s 8 years old, starting having intermittent problems with stopping at the spin cycles due to the drain pump not coming on, and displaying a “nd” error code.
After checking out the drain pump, both lines in and out, and finding no problem, I started to suspect the main board. Especially since it would eventually drain, so long as I kept restarting the washer on the spin cycle enough times.
After studying the schematic printed on the inside of the washer, I checked the leads going to the drain pump on the main board. Sure enough, when the washer was going into the spin cycle, there would either be 0V or 120V going to the drain pump. The “on” or “off” behavior, combined with the intermittent nature of the problem, made me think that a part on the board which controls the drain motor was going bad.
I ordered a used board from someone on eBay, and after I installed that one, my washer now would drain every time, but wouldn’t spin up due to a different problem with that board. So now I had two control boards that almost worked, and evidence that the problem was on the board, not with the drain pump or wiring.
I had a closer look at the components on the used control board, and noticed a row of 8 relays, one of which was labeled “Drain Motor”. Bingo!
With some difficulty I got access to the relays on both boards, de-soldered the bad relay on my original board, de-soldered a relay from the other board to use as a replacement, then soldered that relay back in place on my original board. Problem solved. My washer works as new again.
If anyone else with a similar problem is so inclined, the relays can generally be had on eBay for $10/each or less. Assuming you’re handy with soldering (or know someone who is), you can do this as well.
I would say that the hard part was getting access to the components on the board, since Samsung bathes the board with a quarter-inch or so of silicone sealant. Do all board manufacturers do this? Anyway, I had to peel this away from around the relays by hand, using a pointed wooden dowel about the size of a pencil. You can generally find those in the kitchen supply section of grocery stores, etc. Getting access to the back side of the board required removal of the display board, and Dremel-ing away the part of the plastic housing covering that area of the main control board where the relays are. But should another relay go bad in the future, I’m all ready!
I probably wouldn’t recommend this procedure until you’re ready to replace your main control board anyway, though.
Peggy,
We assume you have a top load washer…. if so then the timer motor assembly is most likely causing your issue. Remove it and check with a meter or check for visible signs of damage. Remove and replace if needed.
-RR
Chris,
That piece you found is to BALANCE and CENTER the drum. Take off panel and check around the bottom of the drum. It either broke a piece and fell off and you need to replace it, or you can try reinstalling it. An unbalanced load may have caused it to fall off.
-RR