If your Samsung dryer will spin but will not heat, a burnt heating element could be your issue. A bad element on Samsung dryers is quite common with some of the newer dryers. However, you need to do some further testing to be sure the element is causing your Samsung dryer to not heat.
The Samsung dryer may have a bad thermostat, thermal cut out fuse, clogged air vent line, incorrect voltage, faulty heating element, or other internal wiring issues. NOTE: If your Samsung Dryer is getting an error code, check here for Samsung Dryer Fault Codes.
Samsung Dryer Runs But Will Not Heat
What can cause Samsung Dryer to not heat?
When your Samsung dryer will not heat, BE SURE YOU HAVE CLEANED THE VENT LINES AND LINT FILTER as a clogged vent line will cause your Samsung dryer to NOT HEAT properly.
Check all parts of the dryer to be sure what is causing it NOT HEATING.
Check thermostats, thermal cut off fuse, wiring, voltage, and vent line. If you have tested ALL aspects of the dryer and have found that the heating element is what is faulty, here is how to replace it.
Samsung Dryer Heating Element DC47-00019A
How to remove and replace Samsung dryer heating element?
- Remove power from your Samsung dryer.
- Remove the screws on the back of the dryer.
- Remove lid by sliding it off.
- Remove the control panel off by lifting upward.
- Remove wire harness holding the control panel to the dryer.
- Remove 4 screws that secure the front panel.
- Open dryer door and remove 2 more screw at the base of the door.
- Depress the locking tabs and remove the front panel.
- Disconnect the door switch wire.
- Lift the panel off.
- Disconnect the moisture sensor wiring harness.
- Remove screw that holds the heating element housing.
- Remove housing from mounting bracket.
- Remove screws that hold mounting bracket to the base.
- Remove the mounting bracket.
- Pull heating element housing out of the dryer.
- Disconnect the wire harness from the heating element.
- Do not remove the wire harnesses from the thermostat or high limit switch.
- Remove the screws holding the thermostat and high limit switch from housing.
- Remove the screws that hold the heating element housing together.
- Bend the tab upward and separate the heating element housing.
- Straighten the wire terminal locking tabs and remove the wire terminals and the heating element from the housing. TO TEST THE SAMSUNG DRYER HEATING ELEMENT = (Use an Ohm meter on the two leads to tell if the element is bad so you know for sure what is causing the dryer to NOT HEAT.)
- Replace the faulty heating element with the new heating element and put everything back together using this guide in reverse.
Samsung Dryer Heating Element Replacement
Instructions for replacing the heating element on your Samsung dryer
Dryer is not heating, gets too hot, takes too long,
trips the breaker, or won’t stop heating.
How does the heating element in a Samsung dryer work?
The Samsung heating element DC47-00019A works when a switch on the motor turns on. The element will then glow red and heat the dryer. When the dryer falls down below a certain temp, the element turns ON and begins to heat the dryer once again. This will repeat over and over until the cycle is complete and the clothing is dry.
Why did the heating element on my Samsung Dryer go bad?
If your dryer heating element is burnt or faulty, something else within the dryer may have caused this. Check the vent exhaust for lint clogs. A lint blockage issue can cause your heating element to burn out.
What other parts can cause my Samsung Dryer to NOT HEAT?
Check the thermostat and the high limit cut off fuse to be sure those components are not causing the dryer to not heat. See below…
How to replace and test the high limit thermostat on a Samsung dryer
Step-by-step instructions on how to replace and test the thermostat on Samsung dryer
The high limit thermostat in this video, apply to many
different part numbers and models of Samsung dryers.
Check the Thermostat and High Limit on your Samsung Dryer if NOT HEATING
Samsung DC47-00016A Dryer Thermostat
Samsung Dryer DC96-00887A Thermal Cut Out Fuse
This Samsung dryer heating element will work on clothes dryer model numbers: DV306BEW, DV306LEW, DV316BEC, DV316BEW, DV316HEC, DV316LES, DV316LEW, DV317AEG, DV317AES, DV317AEW, DV328AEG, DV328AER, DV328AEW, DV330AEB, DV338AEB, DV330AEW, DV331AER, DV331AEW, DV337AEG, DV337AEL, DV337AER, DV337AEW, DV338AEW, DV339AEG, DV339AEL, DV339AER, DV339AES, DV339AEW, DV340AEG, DV340AER, DV350AEG, DV350AEP, DV350AER, DV350AEW, DV393ETPARA, DV393ETPAWR, DV395ETPARA, DV395ETPAWR, DV3C6BEW, DV405ETPASU, DV405ETPAWR, DV407AEW, DV409AER, DV409AEW, DV409SEL, DV410AER, DV410AEW, DV419AES, DV419AEU, DV419AEW, DV428AEL, DV428AEW, DV431AEP, DV431AEW, DV438AEL, DV438AER, DV448AEE, DV448AEP, DV448AEW, DV456EWHDWR, DV484ETHASU, DV484ETHAWR, DV501AEW, DV5451AEP, DV5451AEW, DV5471AEP, DV5471AEW, BED70B, BED70W, DV203AES, DV203AEW, DV206AES, DV206LEW, DV209AEW, DV210AES, DV210AEW, DV218AEB, DV218AES, DV218AEW, DV219AEB, DV219AEW, DV220AEW, DV221AEG, DV221AES, DV229AEG, DV231AEW, DV2C6BEW, MDE6700AYW, MDE6700AZW, MDE9700AYM, MDE9700AYW, MDE9700AZM, MDE9700AZW, NED7200TW, YIED7200TW, and YNED7200TW.
Need help replacing the heating element on your Samsung Dryer? Please leave a question below and we will write back with the easiest ways to replace your dryers heating element or any other parts.
Written by Keith Schneerer
Certified Appliance Tech · Founder, RemoveAndReplace.com
Keith has spent 30+ years repairing machines, starting as a military mechanic and later maintaining food processing equipment before moving into appliance repair. He founded RemoveAndReplace.com to share field-tested repair advice.
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I would check the main fuse box, usually it’s a double breaker. 240 volts, 2 120v hot legs, if not getting proper voltage there your dryer could spin but not heat.
Centrifugal switch contacts on motor, send power to the burner / element only when motor is running. Cleaned them and ignitor glowed and burner fired.
Michael,
Sorry to hear about so much hassle with your Samsung washer and dryer.
Can you please give us the model numbers to both models and we will research the issue for you.
PS – The thermal fuse continually blows, correct?
Any other details you can give us that your technician may have given you will also help us.
Thanks…
-RR
Did anyone figure out what was wrong with their Samsung dryer? I’m having the exact problem as everyone else on here.
I have a brand new Samsung Washer and Dryer that cost an arm and a leg. Was purchased and lightly used for 1 1/2 year, very new models and the NEW electric dryer, problem is no heat while the drum spins. The outgoing ventilation was professional cleaned, there was no clog so that’s not the issue. The parts (thermostat and thermal fuse) have been replaced by licensed professionals repeatedly now for 5 consecutive times. Continuity was checked in all other parts. Each repair costing hundreds of dollars in service fees. The electric dryer would work for 1 or 2 cycles after parts replacement, or sometimes a few weeks or a month before breaking down again, SAME PROBLEM – NO HEAT to dry the clothes. The technicians can’t figure out why such an overtly expensive new dryer would break down like this and cannot come up with a definitely diagnostic and eventually quit the job after repeated attempts.
I have a Samsung DV40J3000 Electric dryer. Have replaced thermostat/high limit/element, works for a load or 2 then stops heating; Have done this multiple times, usually thermal cut off is bad. Voltage meter shows it has enough power and continuity to all parts. There is no lint blockage.
Any ideas?
I have a Samsung gas dryer, DV42H5600GW/a3. It runs, but there is no heat. One technician was convinced it was the igniter. That replacement did not work. Another service technician replaced the mother board and a thermistor, those did not help. However, if he performed a jump at where the electricity enters the main board, the gas heat comes on continuously. Another technician suggested replacing the blower motor for $400. I cannot keep throwing parts into this dryer. Anyone have any better thoughts?
Tested the ohms and the element, thermostat, and thermoster are good. Control panel is good. Vent lines are clear. Any advice on what else it good be?